Vias em Burleigh Heads National Park

10 metres left of Shere Kahn. The crack below the obvious roof problem. Balancy crux to start up the crack, then directly over roof. Natural belay, then an easy scramble out right. A good warm up.

I'm sure in Yosemite this would be grade 16. Starts R of corner at the offwidth crack. Climb the 4m offwidth (#5 camalot) to ledge, then walk off L. The headwall finish passing the very dodgy bolt (placed by an earlier party) is uncompleted. Using the fig tree is not allowed.

2m R. Very wide crack (#5 camalot) to protruding roof. Step R under roof into enclave and DBB.

The prow has been climbed direct after top rope rehearsal, with no gear after the ledge. Actually a pretty cool compression problem, with crux turning the lip. If climbing is re-opened here anyone who wishes to bolt it is welcome to do so.

Just R again. Face route up pillar on bolts next to good gear. Up past break to small sickle-crack (sling), then to ledge. Finish as for Anaconda. A great lead.

1m R. Wide shaft with lovely handcrack running up the middle. A good beginner lead. Take Anaconda's R-hand finish.

This is the pillar between the routes. Top rope only. No bolts please due to proximity to other routes.

2m R. Twin cracks/chimney. Quite a nice chimney. Bring big gear to adequately protect this.

Start up the offwidth to the right of Hunter Gatherer. Bring big cams up to arm you for the mini-wrestling match that you're about to endure. Strenuous smooth off-widthing climbing the outside of Narrow is the Way.

Start in the cave 1m R behind Fireflies pillar. Well protected climbing up a tight and fully enclosed chimney. At the top, exit L to DBB.

2m R is a detached leaning pillar with bolts. Use stick or bridge tree to clip first of three FH's, but start directly from ground. Blast directly up the pillar past two FH's to break (small SLCD). Clip the final FH, then crank up and R to top out.

The most obvious route here. 2m R of pillar and marked by some weird metal spikes sticking out down low. Attractive, sinuous crack up corner to small roof, then ramble out.

Slightly contrived, but great fun up the arete between COTW and Amazon, always staying clear of the two cracks. A couple of thin, cruxy moves to jug. Continue up arete to ledge on a variety of interesting holds. Scramble up to top.

1m R. Another sinuous crack, similar to the last one. If you pike off right, subtract a few grades.

The leaning, low-angle pillar, and wide shaft behind. The delicate crux is on the slabby pillar (no pro), so don't fall off!

Enter the cave left of Me Jane. Climb up the chimney and under the offensive rock. Top out up You Tarzan.

3m R. A shaft with a big tree growing against the rock. Bridge the shaft and climb the tree, with a harder move at the top. Belay on ledge, but scramble out L (roped).

1.5m R. Contrived, but a bit of fun. The pillar with a FH. The committing crux above the bolt must be climbed direct! Scramble down R.

Two bolts on pillar 5m right of pigmy. Great pillar climb.

1m R. The last decent corner crack on the cliff. Scramble down R.

2m left of Cheetah. Easy twin crack/chimney all the way up. Good pro.Nice beginners lead.

Walk 15m right of Tribal Dance over boulders to a large fallen-over pillar. Right in front, climb the sinuous left crack up corner to broken ground. Try and stay off the crack on the right side. Good fist jam. Bring a couple large cams.