Ascensões de Father Oblivion

After Alex Holroyd 's solid attempt on getting up the route I gave a go at pink pointing this beautiful route. Couldnt execute the first boulder crux but was chuffed to stick the dyno after it. The second crux got me beat so did the fantastic 25 variant traverse instead.

Coming up to the roof I got pumped and took a small fall over a nut which Alex Holroyd had previously sat on. It was terrifying enough to take the fall however the nut popped and suddenly I felt my soul momentarily leave my body as it continued to nearly soil itself. It was quite the show to the hikers and boulderers nearby has they watched both in awe and gasp as I whipped screaming like a little boy. It was quite unusual as the nut disappeared but the alpine draw was still clipped on to the rope.

What a first session on Taipan wall, both exhilarating and humbling. It may have obliterated my mental game but instilled a great excitement to return to this sensational wall.

Incredible moves, skirted around the crux. Dynoing to the pinch was mega!

Pikers gonna pike (traversed around the nails crux). Apart from the cruxy crux this is all time

First time on Taipan wall and was such an awesome time.

TRS, Great climbing! I will be back for this!

Amazing route to the top of taipan! Nails crimpy sharp crux then easier climbing up an awesome head wall.

Had it in the bag then my finger tip decided to explode on the sharp crimp sending me plummeting into the sky. One to come back for

Hard pitch to work as the crux is at the start! Had a play but bailed. Would be keen to get back and work out the crux as the rest of it looks fantastic

Great fun. Climbed with a small diversion towards Sirocco above second bolt to make a more balanced climb. This start would be good for Sirocco also.

1 lap on TRS. I spent about an hour on the move past the first bolt of THIS route (another huge throw/dyno, like on Sirocco P2) and though I stuck it a few times, I never sorted the sequence. It's entirely possible I was just too trashed from my efforts on Sirocco, but it does seem massively reachy. I cruised the rest of this (including the section past the 2nd bolt, that most people regard as the crux) and thought that as as a sustained pitch (after the 1st bolt) the climbing on this is far superior to Sirocco. More sustained, varied, better equipped, less contrived, and on more amazing terrain. The "loft" move at half-height is rad, and the top headwall is spectacular. I might try this again in the future when I'm not tired.

Probably the hardest 26 I've done (in terms of crux moves at least). Crux crimp has broken too, though not sure it makes it harder. Bliss to the top afterwards. Topping out on taipan is the best. 5th go

Pretty damn hard crux. Close but no cigar

First lead on Taipan. Went up for a look at this and Sirocco P2 but quickly retreated.

First shot: popped off from the mono.

Second shot: did dyno, lunge, then pulled crux pretty easily. Rested a bunch of times including sit at the rest just before the last dyno/deadpoint. Felt pretty pumped, surprised I finished.

Had 3 shots, only to the third bolt to lower off because I forgot draws. Felt pretty average. Only 1 shot at the crux was worthwhile.

First time going to the top. Had a few shots on the crux but didn't link it fully. Went to the top once, resting on the bolts. Didn't work anything past the crux

Woahhhhh! Did the Crux moves and bailed from ledge above the second bolt as didn't have gear. Amazing so far...did full dyno from decent hold at end of start traverse to semi jug after a few goes on tr but it's not dialled yet.. Went straight up from there to the next jug... Next moves very tricky and sharp on right hand but super cool.. Especially that left single pad mono.. Psyched to get back and go to the top

Woahhhhh! Did the Crux moves and bailed from ledge above the second bolt as didn't have gear. Amazing so far...did full dyno from decent hold at end of start traverse to semi jug after a few goes on tr but it's not dialled yet.. Went straight up from there to the next jug... Next moves very tricky and sharp on right hand but super cool.. Especially that left single pad mono.. Psyched to get back and go to the top

with Will. went from the first hard move to the top first go. Should get back on it