Nodes em Sawmill Cliff

Big, remote and serious. The existing good climbs are steep and loose and the unclimbed upper wall on the middle cliff is very compact.

The cliff sits just below a saddle high on the range and faces north.

There is a buttress set forward of and slightly down from the main cliff. Curving crack line of left of the forward buttress. Dyno for first holds, up crack until forced 2 metres right under overhang. Up steep crack then traverse 3 metres left through overhang. Finish up easy ground. (Alternate finish at grade 21 is to go directly through overhang, right and up).

The easiest way to the halfway ledge and also the descent route. Start at the top of the little saddle. Climb from the top of the saddle to the ledge. There is one runner.

Just left of the saddle is a right-rising, discontinuous crack system. Follow the cracks at first then go straight up.

Follow the left-slanting dyke left of the corner all the way. Just below the roofline traverse 7-8 metres left to a small stance just below shattered terrace. Abseil from a shonky knob of rock (or tackle the horrific upper part of the cliff).

Start: Start at the base of the dirty corner.

Probably the best of the easy climbs here but, again, not well-protected.

Start: Start 45 metres left of the saddle, 15 metres left of the dirty corner.

A serious first pitch, loose and poorly-protected

1. 20m (19) From the right side of the ledge, climb up in a rising rightward line with care to a major horizontal break. Belay below a leftward-facing corner.

2. 25m (-) Good climbing leads up the corner to belay on the prow on the right.

3. 25m (-) On up the line to the top.

Start: Start 5 metres left of "Twisted Vista"

1. 20m (22) Go up then slightly right to a cosy belay immediately below the crack through the right edge of the huge triangular roof that undercuts the buttress

2. 25m (22) Around the roof and on to easier ground. When about 5 metres below the next huge roofline make a rising traverse left to a belay ledge and bolt.

3. 25m (-) An exciting lead off the ledge, above and slightly left of the bolt, gains a ledge. Now more easily to the top

Even more dramatic, this takes the hanging crack on the left side of the triangular roof. Climb friable rock 5 metres left of Pilot To Bombardier to below the crack. Exciting climbing leads through the bulge, then go up right and make the crux dyno well above protection for the belay ledge. Belay bolt on highest point of ledge. Abseil from bolt or continue up Pilot To Bombardier