Nodes em The Fortress

100m free standing pillar.

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Directly in front of where the track meets the cliff, the cave is split by a large chimney-cleft. The climbs start here.

Left wall of cleft, just right of arete. Start at small, undercut arete then tend left towards arete. At 20m traverse right above small roof and the continue up arete.

Start 10 metres right of cleft.

1. 18m Pull through roof at obvious flake and easily up wall just left of small corner.

2. Up face of pillar directly above, then wall.

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Sixty metres beyond the right end of the main Eastern camping ave and past a beautiful smooth overhanging grey wall is a recess in the cliff-line.

The Wall of large knobs has a smooth grey central section; star directly below this. Up to and tending left across the smooth section and then back right to pull through roof at 30m, then up.

Start 35 metres right of wall of large knobs at right-leaning orange-edged flake-line. Up flake, or slab immediately right, to roof. Pull through roof immediately above flake and then on up past wedged block.

20 metres right of Cailaf is a grey arete with dull orange streaks in upper wall. Start 2 metres left of arete and go up to rooflet at 30m. Swing right on excellent holds around the arete and up.

A roof and grey wall left of 'Fragile Feelings'. ? starts at the arete 2 metres right of Woodstock leftovers.

1. 20m (15) Up the grey wall just left of the roof. Traverse right above the lip of the roof to belay below the smaller roof.

2. 30m (15) Up to the roof and heel-hook right. Jugs follow.

Used to be marred by loose blocks leading to the roof but these have apparently been cleaned up a bit by a subsequent ascent. The rest point really should go.

Start: A steep wall with a flake-line in the centre.

1. 20m (-) Up the wall to the flake system and easily to good belay.

2. 30m (21 M0) Continue up the flake (loose rock) to the roof. Traverse 3 metres left to weakness in overhang, resting on a runner near the end of the traverse. Pull through the overhang and finish up the wall.

Not sure where this is in relation to Spanish Bombs.

1. 30m (9) Stepped corner which bounds righthand side of 'Fragile Feelings' wall to big ledge.

2. 7m (9) Cross slot to juggy right wall then up.

Right-facing corner 10 metres right of 'Fragile Feelings'. Up to top of corner, step right and up.

Not clear how this relates to the other climbs hereabouts. Start 40 metres right of The Swages Of Sin at a small wall. Up line 2 metres left of corner at right and join corner above vegetation. Up to ledge then up on jugs.

Directly up wall 2 metres left of Igreiga to the scoop on the right of the large triangular roof. Pull through roof on good holds, move left and up.

50 metres right of 'Spanish Bombs' is smooth grey wall and maybe a large gum growing against the cliff. If the tree is still there, that's where you start. Up, tending right near the top before pulling through the roof.

5 metres right of 'Igreiga', 1 metre left of wide corner. Up crack, continue up side of huge hollow flake and then wall above.

40 metres to the right is small orange wall with e descent gull on it's right side.

The crack 2 metres left of right end of small orange wall.

There two prominent orange corners capped by a large grey roof system 250 metres right of Spanish Wall.

Travels through some pretty unfriendly country.

Start: Start at obvious corner system 12 metres left of Ghost Ships

1. 25m (18) Up the large corner to the roof. Step right and up to next roof then step right again and up to next roof. Step right to cramped stance.

2. 15m (18) Up right past the next roof and then traverse back left for 7 metres to good stance.

3. 30m (-) Up easily

Supposedly easier than it looks. If you beiieve that cal I interest you in a harbour bridge that I have available? Right-hand crack leading to roof.

1. 25m Up the obvious crack to roof. Follow roof-line up and right to arete.

2. 28m Up.

Traverse left through the rooves from the belay at the end of the first pitch of Ghost Ships.

Crack and chimney leading to righthand end of roof system.

1. 27m Up crack to roof then up diagonally right across wall on good holds then up arete to large ledge.

2. 28m Up.

Start at crack 10 metres right of Roaring Forties.

1. 27m Up crack to roof, traverse right to pedestal, steeply up then up easily to ledge of Roaring Forties.

2. 28m Up.

Vertical seam into roof.

150 metres right of Ghost Ships is another, smaller inset triangular roof. 40 metres right of this is a cleft.

Start 10 metres right of cleft in large scooped out section of lovely orange wall. Traverse diagonally up right. Tricky move onto sloping ledge to move around arete, then up.

Start 15 metres right of 'Sidewinder'. Among the worst of the worst. Up dirty wall and then crack splitting slender buttress. Expect fragile rock.

300 metres east of Black Knight Buttress and a few metres north of walking track is top of a huge block with superb orange east wall.

Start 1 metre left of right arete. Straight up for 15 metres. Traverse right at break to arete. Up.

"Superb climbing on brilliant rock", Campbell Mercer.Start 4 metres left of right arete. Up crack, step right and up.

Fifty metres east of the descent gully to Black Knight Buttress the track passes some good-looking rock. The upper part of the wall is split by a short overhanging finger crack.

"Not one of the best climbs on the cliff". That should set the alarm bells ringing. "Not one of the best climbs on the cliff". That should set the alarm bells ringing. Up to the superb finger crack then avoid it by stepping left and up the large chimney-crack.

Easier trad climbing in a remote, beautiful location.

The climbing is mostly easy with one or two superb natural lines but be wary of huge, fragile jugs on some sections. On the right side of the cliff is a smaller wall of superb rock with a few harder climbs.

The right arete of the buttress with a very exposed second pitch.

Start: At the left hand end of the cliff below the right arete of a large buttress with a huge triangular roof high up. Start in a cave under a leaning block.

1. 24m (9) Up short wide crack and move right over block to arete. Up, bypassing roof via right wall. Traverse left above roof onto front of buttress to belay stance at continuation of original crack.

2. 44m (9) Climb initial overhang at crack then up wall trending left until angle eases. Now follow arete right and up to the Visor (run-out). Staright up headwall above visor to poor ti-tree anchors at top.

The left arete of the wall immediately left of Wizard Of Id rears up as a steep curving blade of rock. Grade not given in original description.

1. 35m (-) Easy angled arete becomes steeper at 15 metres. Continue through several bulges to a really nice belay.

2. 44m (-) Crux. Up just right of the edge. Where it bulges out left, climb straight up the bulging wall to the top keeping 2-3 metres from the edge.

A pleasant climb up the corner to the left of the great blank wall.

1. 35m (9) Climb the corner and belay somewhere.

2. 30m (9) Continue up the corner to a ledge beneath a steep wall.

3. 15m (9) Take the left-hand crack to the top.

Another big arete. Start as for 'The Wizard Of Id'.

1. 35m (-) Crux. Up 'The Wizard Of Id' for a few metres then the thin crack up the vertical arete on the right. Belay on a tiny stance on the left at the top of the crack, 3 metres below a roof on the arete.

2. 19m (-) Continue up past the roof. About 3 metres above the roof, a horizontal dyke forms an overlap with a foot-ledge above it. Pull onto the ledge and traverse right to the arete. Up easily to belay stance.

3. 25m (-) Easily up.

A great climb up a huge corner leads to a fragile finish.

Start: Start below the huge corner marking the right side of an impressive blank wall.

1. 50m (7) Climb the huge corner until the rope runs out.

2. 40m (-) Continue up the line until it runs out and finish up the juggy wall.

A pleasant first pitch.

Start: Start in the corner 10 metres right of 'Black Knight'.

1. 33m (12) Climb the corner for 20 metres and then traverse 2 metres right and up into the chimney line. Continue to a belay.

2. 40m (-) Continue up the line for 20 metres and then step right into a broken chimney which is climbed to a steep, juggy wall. Belay with care.

3. 27m (12) Continue up the steep wall.

Easy climbing on good rock in the depths of a massive formation.

Start: Start 50 metres right of 'Bastion' where two huge, juggy walls join to form a wide open-book formation. Scramble up to the line.

1. 45m (6) Move into the deep, hidden chimney and bridge up. Move right at 45 metres to a stance.

2. 45m (6) Up the line above the stance. Traverse left at 23 metres to another line that leads to a large ledge.

3. 10m (6) On up the line.

The corner and wall 5 metres left of the major corner.

A climb of quality. Take the major corner. Move right when below the roof and continue up the wall.

Climb the line right of 'Lioness' past a block and then traverse left into 'Lioness'.

Go 3 metres up the flake and step right. Climb the wall, mostly just left of the arete until the bulge. Take this via the main crack.

Start: Start 15 metres right of 'Lioness' at a flake-corner.

Start: Start 5 metres right of Mr Piggy's Train Ride.

1. 15m (20) Up groove, moving left at 8 metres to the next crack. Continue to a poor stance below the bulge.

2. 35m (20) Up the wall, trending right, easing dramatically after first 5 metres.

Wideish diagonal crack 10 metres right of 'Biggles Pulls It Off'.

Below the left end of Black Knight Buttress is a short steep orange wall.. Locate the big triangular roof of Chain Mail then head staright downhill for 30 metres. The wall will be on the right, facing north

Steep, well-protected, delightful climbing up wall.

Start: Start 2 metres right of the left-hand end of the wall.

Up flake 5 metres right of "Atom Ant" and then wall above.

Black streak 3 metres right of "Reckless"

In the middle of the wall is a dark chimney. Up 2 metres right of the chimney.

Thin series of diagonal cracks about 5 metres to the left of the right-hand edge of wall.

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Thin stemming followed by vertical ocean of chickenheads.

Start: Start at the overhanging corner a few metres right of Passport To Insanity.

1. 20m (22) Bridge up the overhanging corner, surmount the overhang and continue easily to ledge on arete.

2. 35m (-) Up wall and groove on right side of arete to horizontal break. Traverse right.

3. 45m (-) Diagonally right up wall for 3 metres to deep groove. Bridge airily up this groove, which becomes a chimney, all the way. Descend by scrambling west down boulder-strewn chasm. Abseil 50 metres from bollard to ground.

"The best line in Australia...". Also notable for the fact that Nyrie Dodd's free ascent was the first Aussie female ascent of a grade 27.

The second pitch roof-crack could hardly be in a better position.

This is also a superb mixed climb at 20, M2 if the roof is aided. Sadly it is often under-estimated and the detritus of retreat is often evident. It is not a practice route.

The start is rather obvious.

1. 50m (20) Up wide crack. Belay at stance where crack ends, about 10m below the roof. A #5 cam is useful on this pitch.

2. 20m (27) Move R to gain nice rail that leads L to the back of the roof, and the start of the roof crack. Follow crack (at either 27 or M2) to the lip and then up to belay stance.

3. 40m (18) Ramble up to the top.

The second pitch has runout hard climbing. Objective danger in the form of a giant spider may be encountered on the final pitch.

Start: Start at the hand-crack 4 metres left of Passport To Insanity.

1. 35m (24) Overhanging hand-crack then the thinner crack to a stance at the bottom of a right-leading flake-line.

2. 35m (23) 'Layback' up the flake and then climb diagonally left across the bulging wall to a ledge on the arete. Step left around the arete and then go up the wall above to the second belay of Passport To Insanity.

3. 30m (20) Go diagonally left to a thin crack. Climb this and then move horizontally left to a blocky ledge. Finish strsight up the wall to the top.

Withering face climbing. A serious proposition.

Start 2 metres left of 'Raving Loonies'.

1. 40m (25) Up a short hollow flake. Step right and go up on good holds until a difficult move up and left gains a flake/crack line (cam in 'Raving Loonies' protects this). Climb the crack and go left along a horizontal break. Mantle up to another break, then go left and up to a poor spike. Go straight up to easier ground and a good thread. Traverse left for 8 metres to a good ledge on the left edge of the flake.

2. 20m (19) 'Layback' the curving flake to reach broken ledges. Go up 3 metres to thread belay with insitu worthless tat.

3. 20m (19) Move left on the ledge and then awkwardly over the first bulge to easier-angled ground. Wander up to a stancebelow a leftwards-curving line which forms the righthand boundary of an overhung recess in the face.

4. 30m (26) Climb the line and go up to a good horizontal break. Move left and up steeply on chicken heads to a good flake and runners. Fingery, bold climbing leads to the top.

The siuous corner just left of the chasm separating thePassport pinnacle from the main massif.

1. 10m (16) Awkward short corner to large ledge.

2. 30m (18) Follow the corner.

3. 30m (14) Continue up the line until it doglegs right and peters out. Traverse left at this point until able to move up (runout) to the next line that leads to overhangs. Belay where possible.

4. 40m (17) Continue up the line and through the overhangs.

A dramatic route with some poorly protected difficult climbing.

Start 10-15 metres left of 'Quincas Borba'.

1. 30m (20) Up the unprotected wall to a corner which leads to a roof. Move out right around the roof and up the line above to a good ledge on the left.

2. 30m (-) Step right and traverse right across the wall for 10 metres. Go up a faint groove to a ledge and large blcok. Stand on the block and climb the steep wall, tending left as it eases.

3. 40m (-) Straight up the series of walls.

4. 30m (-) Up the groove and over the overhangs as for Quincas Borba's final pitch.

A fine route in an exposed, atmospheric setting on the left edge of the Passport recess.

Start at the square-cut chimney left of 'Mutiny', where a huge block has come away from the wall, 10 metres right of Saxon.

1. 45m (13) Bridge up the chimney and arete. Near the top, move onto the left wall and follow a diagonal line up left to a prominent vertical line. Go up to a small stance.

2. 10m (-) Up to next ledge.

3. 45m (13) When the line runs out, climb the bulge and continue straight up the wall to a prominent notch on the skyline.

This huge diagonal line on the north face of the summit blcok can be seen from the highway when the light is right. It's not much good though.

Rock quality and protection are problematic at times.

1. 37m (12) Follow the diagonal line.

2. 20m (12) Move up to a steep, juggy wall and traverse left until the jugs become sound enough to allow a safe ascent. Continue up to the cave.

3. 20m (12) Move out of the cave and onto the right wall. Up the wall, tending right and belay on a narrow ledge. Rope drag and poor protection are issues.

4. 10m (-) Eaisly to the top.

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

This is just left of the Oasis camping cave on a squat, square-cut pillar of compact rock. This is as good a place as any to put it for now. Walk up below the right side of the pinnacle, through some chockstones to a corner on the arete. Corner, left around roof and crack to ledge. Left past dodgy thread runner to next crack. Up this, poor protection, to top.