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Ocean Vista Area

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Descrição

Includes large south facing Ocean Vista Wall, Lower tier and Past lower Tier. Routes are listed R to L. This wall is in shade from about 10:30am in summer and all day in winter. Aug-Dec it’s recommended to stay off Ninja Tactics and all routes to the left of it due to Perigrine Falcons nesting nearby.

Questões de acesso herdado de Mt Ninderry

Mt Ninderry is an access sensitive area. Please car pool to minimise parking problems (lots of parking at the highway turnoff). There have been complaints so please be quiet and respectful. Please approach via the land atop Ocean Vista Drive which is now under Sunshine Coast Council ownership as part of the Mt. Ninderry reserve. Use the turning circle at the end of the road and park Vehicles with 4 wheels on the road and not blocking the fire trail to allow access for emergency vehicles if required. Don’t use the carparks in the turning circle. Be respectful and low key. In particular,

  • use QUIET voices on arrival and on the walk-ins - noise travels.
  • Don’t linger over beers or cooking up noodles after climbing and definitely NO OVERNIGHT STAYS.
  • All dogs at the location must be on leash at all times.
  • Don’t urinate in front of houses (yes there’s been complaints!).

This is a peaceful residential neighbourhood, so we want to be good stewards of climbing. The 15 min walk brings you out near Enter the Ninja arête.

Acesso

Take the path left just past the large boulder on the main access track. Follow the steps up gully to access the main wall.

Ética herdado de Mt Ninderry

Wear a helmet, use a stick clip, be safe and tread lightly and quietly. Be careful of the grass trees and orchids. Don't impinge upon potential trad routes with new bolts. Respect tagged projects and the individuality of existing lines. And please dispose of human waste properly!

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The following routes exist on the large south facing Ocean Vista Wall. Routes are listed R to L. This wall is in shade from about 10:30am in summer and all day in winter. Follow the steps up gully to access the sector which bring you out below Zazen.

The furthest R route on this sector, behind the rock arch. Climb wall to ledge in cave. Monkey up R side of scoop, power through sustained cruxy bulge, and up moderate headwall to the world’s end. Use long runners in cave. Harder than the original 24 since hold broke.

FFA: Jerome, 2011

Middle line out of cave. If lead in one pitch, anchor in and pull the rope through the first 4 draws before proceeding to reduce drag.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2011

Not bad in it's own right. May have suffered a broken hold...

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2011

7 bolts from the cave to anchors. Climb as for FC to the cave. This is the L line directly above the anchors. Severe Body-English is necessary to solve the boulder problem out the cave. The climbing eases significantly as the angle relents, though still keeps you punching through the overlap. To minimise drag, safety into the first anchors and pull the rope through before continuing.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2012

9 BR to anchors. Deceptively steep face and blunt arête. Pumpy. Not for the feint of heart with a little funky rock and an engaging crux. Stick to the line and no traversing way off R into the cave.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2011

Shares the start with it's twin, then L onto the ledge. Direct up following the vertical seam through the crimpy face. Maybe a tad contrived but does not climb the easy stuff out L. Trend R above hard section to join the top of DDR.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2011

Straight up the centre of the chimney working your way in and out of a series of scoops. 9 hangers to anchors. Chossy start but gets better. Belayer wear a helmet!

FFA: Neil Jenman, 8 Oct 2017

Traverse R along fixed rope. Grey face/arete. Stick clip first bolt and start up crack. Punchy and sustained little route with long moves between good holds.

FFA: Ben O'Connell, 2010

Good compression boulder problem then glory to the chains!

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2010

Start carefully up arete to big hueco and first bolt. A hard mid section leads to sustained and committing climbing all the way to the chains. Don't mistake the last bolt with the mallion on it for the finish - double bolt anchors at the top.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2010

Named after an angry former inhabitant! Start in the back of the black cave. Burly climbing through cool hanging features. The sustained headwall still packs a bite!

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2011

Direct start of funnel web, stick clip second bolt and start up crack in middle of wall. Continue up staying on left hand side of bolts. Great climbing.

FFA: 11 Sep 2022

Begin in L side of cave, around the arete and up face to anchors of NT. Uber sustained from the get go until the break.

FFA: Ross Ferguson, 2012

Link up. First two bolts of Kill Bill to its third FH (but don't clip it) before traversing R into Funnel Web at its third FH and finishing up this.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 2012

The following three routes are located on a small lower tier of rock under the main cliff. To access, fix a rope to the bolt at the top of the gully, just beneath the start of Funnel Web, and abseil down.

On the little wall down gully below FW. Though short, this route has sustained technical climbing with a diabolical crux. Gets lichen.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2011

L of STL. Tough crux, but fall-offable all the way!

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2011

L of CKKC. Good little route with a few difficult sections and an excellent warmup for the harder stuff around here.

FFA: Dan Mackenzie & Tom Gallagher, 2012

Belay from base of large tree with off width above. Head up vegetated corner on surprisingly good holds and gear to small cave. Climb up to offwidth above cave and continue along crack with good pro and holds until it peters out below grassy ledge. Wrestle grass trees and lack of rock to the left to find a way up to small headwall above. Climb headwall gingerly to belay from a couple of small trees on upper ocean vista ledge.

FFA: Matt Fingleton & Matt Raimondo, 2 Nov 2020

Start at the base of the large pillar as you round the track after passing stairs to lower tier. Start up diagonal offwidth until standing at small open corner at head wall with small meandering crack above. Plug in some gear and pull onto headwall trending slightly left up centre of pillar on small wires and cams. Head for bolted belay at top left hand side of pillar. Excellent movement throughout with a great variety of holds and adequate protection. Can walk off back of pillar to Lower tier.

FFA: Matt Fingleton & Matt Raimondo, 2 Nov 2020

Now back up to Ocean Vista Wall above...

The direct on Kill Bill. Start R of NT at the crack. 3 bolts to join KB at the end of the traverse. The climb goes just R of bolt 3 (the patina prevented bolts from being placed further R). Sustained pinches, underclings, sidepulls. Tough 2nd clip, but for full value avoid stickclipping it.

FA: Dick Harding

Set: Dick Harding, May 2019

FFA: Dick Harding & kenny walker, 23 Jul 2019

Clip first bolt from the narrow ledge and pull onto the hard start. Pumpy pocketed face. Avoid traversing R for a giant rest on the jug of KB and add a grade and a star. A classic route but best avoided between Aug-Dec as the local falcon has a habit of greeting would-be ascentionists at very high speeds.

FFA: Ross Ferguson, 2010

Dappled face veering R to a tricky clip at the 5th bolt, then directly up into the cave. Don't finish here! Use a very long draw then up and R onto the giant fang with a bolt on the tip, questing heroically to the anchors on the headwall.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2010

Start at the fine crack to the left of Sho Kosugi with the overhanging offwidth through the cave above. Look up in awe at the overhanging crack to lip. Climb on great holds and gear to exciting finale exiting overhang onto face above. Did I say finale? Traverse right then left with horrendous drag till you reach a large block to belay your second from. Fist bump and wander through scrub to top out. Note*** Beware loose rock at lip

FFA: Matt Fingleton & Matt Raimondo, 2 Nov 2020

SK into cave, then L line of bolts out cave to very top of wall. Do not confuse to 2 bolts with fixed gear on them (wtf?) at the top of the cave for the anchors, it keeps going. Exposed exciting finish!

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2012

Face and blunt arete just L of crack. Joins COYS in cave.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2010

A squeeze, but so what. Shares first bolt with Five Point. Goes a little L after bolt 3 into the underclings. Shares a few holds with COYS before busting R and up. Same top as the others. Can certainly be done punching R lower on some cool intense side pulls at 23 but is unfortunately contrived.

FFA: Dick Harding

Set: Dick Harding, Oct 2019

Stickclip recommended. Use long draw in cave. Beware loose rock in top section but it doesn't detract from the experience.

FFA: Jerome, 2010

Starts just right of the large grass tree. Stickclip first bolt and step off block to venture up overhanging rib on good holds with some punchy moves on small headwall above. Carefully to anchor. Shares last bolt with Anagrams or just run it out. *Please respect resident Falcon

FFA: Matt Fingleton, 8 Jul 2022

Starts left of large grass tree under cave. Stickclip first bolt and either climb direct or come in from the left over first bolt. Interesting moves through cave to pull onto wall above. Carefully through to upper cave which holds one of Ninderry's finest views. Shared anchor with Distraction Utopia. *Please respect the resident Falcon.

FFA: Dr.B, 8 Jul 2022

On the main wall, but confusingly left of the two subsequent described routes. Scramble/bridge up into the very top section of cave. This route climbs the steep L side of cave and wall above. Somewhat sharp rock at the start leads to a surprisingly fine and exposed headwall with anchors.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2011

The far left of Ocean Vista Wall. The highest, yet shortest routes at Ninderry. Accessed by squeezing behind grass tree and up hallway. For the 2 routes on the pinnacle take a couple of long slings (1mtr +) to lower off anchors on ledge, or rappel instead. NOTE: These routes are closed during the Peregrine Falcon nesting season (August - December).

Dappled face of high pinnacle. Climbs the face L of the bolts not the easy flake way off to the R. This route is thin, technical and tricky. Shares anchors with IaTN so requires long 1.5m slings to lower off.

Please note: Closed during Peregrine Falcon nesting season (August- November)

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2010

Steep arete on pinnacle. What it lacks in length it makes up for with exposure and pumpiness! Use 1+mtr slings on anchors if lowering or alternatively abseil off to clean.

Please note: Closed during Peregrine Falcon nesting season (August- December)

FFA: Kenny Walker & Luke Sonnenburg, 2010

A completely different area from the previous 2 routes... the next route is located under Ocean Vista Wall on it's own little pillar.

One of the better warm ups on the cliff. An isolated route but well worth doing on great rock. 6 UB’s lead up the steep and juggy wall to anchors over the lip.

FA: Matt Schimke

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