Boomerang Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Table of contents

1. Boomerang 21 routes in Crag

2 1

1 Boomerang Slabs 2 The Mollusk

Summary:

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

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D

Sazonalidade

Mostly Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: -32.335943, 152.549920

sumário

Easy slabbing or extreme adventure.

descrição

Boomerang beach has 2 climbing areas to the North of the beach. Each of the areas varies in style and rock type. There is plenty to keep you interested here if you are up here on holiday and want a break from the beach.

questões de acesso

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

herdado de New South Wales and ACT

acesso

Park in the car park on the Northern end of Boomerang Beach, from here look to your left and you will see a rocky headland with a nice slab of black rock. You can see one of the areas from here and the others are in the zawn on the other side of this headland.

história

The original Boomerang Beach slab routes must have been done some time around 1980.

1.1. Boomerang Slabs 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: -32.336019, 152.549483

descrição

A nice slab with 5 bolted climbs in the low grades. The rock is volcanic and generally good but watch out for the odd hold that tries to escape. All routes could be top roped if you pay attention to extending the anchors. The slab stays in the shade until midday. Climbs described left to right facing the cliff.

acesso

To get to the crag head North along the beach and then scramble (nothing too tricky) over the rocks to the base of the slab. Top ancors can be accessed via walking around the left hand side of the face (facing the crag)

descent notes

To descend walk off to the left (facing in to the crag).

história

Originally set and bolted by Ian Boyle (1980's), an outdoor educator who grew up in the first house built on Boomerang Beach. The slabs are nicknamed the 'Dogs Ear', due to the shape of the headland. Climbing has been established here since the 70s/80s with a few routes rebolted and a few more added.

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★★ Boomerang This is the first line on the left of the slab on fixed hangers. Up slab past square cut roof, follow bolts to a hard move near to a rusty coach bolt and 2 closely spaced fixed hangers. From here it is run out all the way to the anchors. Set: originally bolted by Ian Boyle & Rebolted 2010 A. Alexander FA: Ian Boyle, 1980	19	Sport 20m
2		★★ Hunting Spear Follow 2 fixed hangers and then through overlap up to top. The anchors are set quite far back at the top. Set: Originally bolted by Ian Boyle & Rebolted 2010 A.Alexander FA: Ian Boyle, 1980	17	Sport 20m
3		★ Woomera Follow 3 carrots to overlap, continue up to second overlap and then on to the top where there are 2 fixed hangers. FA: A. Alexander & A. Child, 2012	15	Sport 20m
4		★ Nulla Nulla Start just left of the white streak. Follow the carrots which stay to the left of the white streaks over an overlap to the top where there are 2 fixed hangers. FA: 2012	14	Sport 20m
5		★ Shield Climb the carrots on the white streak, the rock is better than you think it might be. 2 fixed hangers at the top. FA: 2012	13	Sport 20m

1.2. The Mollusk 15 routes in Cliff

3 2 1

1 Ween Wall 2 Southern Platform 3 The North Shelf

Summary:

All Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: -32.335916, 152.550284

descrição

ZAWN WARNING!

• This crag is a sea cliff. Access is strictly under small swell conditions. Even on a medium swell day around 3 foot waves can make it treacherous for access.

• The rock is loose, and the rock is sharp. It's good adventure climbing, but it's just as rough on your rope as it is your skin.

• Wear helmets. The belay's are generally tucked out of the way of the climb, but there is loose conglomerate rock.

• Routes are 15-30m, starting from a belay ledge. Multipitch climbing skills are essential for this style of climbing.

• Communication while climbing will be hindered as the longer climbs start off through gently overhanging terrain and finish up the long slab.

• The longer routes top out, and are best cleaned by a 2nd who also tops.

• Lowering off is best avoided, with options such as abseiling and bringing up the 2nd climber advised where possible (to minimise rope wear and tear).

acesso

From the Slabs walk up and over the headland, decent can be made rapping 30m in from the north for the northern routes (rope can get snagged and requires a 4m exposed grade 14 scramble to free, or bring a 2nd rope to do these routes). Or from the southern end scrambling down to the warm up wall, and a roped scramble to the belay ledge (10m above sea level).

história

Developed in 2012.

1.2.1. Ween Wall 3 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: -32.336133, 152.550479

descrição

Small wall on the southern side of the Zawn where you get a view of the main wall & get used to the funky rock with some shorter climbs.

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★ Dean & Gene Ween Interesting pockets and large cobbles. Start by hole in block, follow 3 fixed hangers up face to DBB.	14	Sport 12m, 3
2		★ Buenos Tardes Amigo Small arete. Start at the corner, follow 4 fixed hangers up the corner / crack to the DBB shared with the other climbs.	18	Sport 12m, 4
3		★ Push th' Little Daisies Tiny overhang with dynamic chuck. Start at the corner, follow the many closely spaced rings up the overhang and pull over onto the ramp. Up ramp to DBB.	22	Sport 12m

1.2.2. Southern Platform 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Lat / Long: -32.335959, 152.550324

descrição

• This crag is a sea cliff. Access is strictly under small swell conditions. Even on a medium swell day around 3 foot waves can make it treacherous for access.

• The rock is loose, and the rock is sharp. It's good adventure climbing, but it's just as rough on your rope as it is your skin.

• Wear helmets. The belay's are generally tucked out of the way of the climb, but there is loose conglomerate rock.

• Routes are 15-30m, starting from a belay ledge. Multipitch climbing skills are essential for this style of climbing.

• Communication while climbing will be hindered as the longer climbs start off through gently overhanging terrain and finish up the long slab.

• The longer routes top out, and are best cleaned by a 2nd who also tops.

• Lowering off is best avoided, with options such as abseiling and bringing up the 2nd climber advised where possible (to minimise rope wear and tear).

acesso

Scramble in from ween wall. You will have to solo down the slab leaning into the zawn, and traverse across to the 'crows nest' belay ledge, clipping 1 bolt before you commit to the traverse over the slot (WARNING this slot will turn small waves into big waves with the hint of a sizeable swell, if it's wet wait and watch for 5-10mins to see what the waves are doing).

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★ I'm Dancing in the Show Tonight Access traverse, do not attempt if wet as waves can make this part dangerous. Rope up at slot, clip bolt, traverse to Crows Nest for the first few climbs, or continue rising traverse to the bigger belay ledge the 'South Side Platform'.	16	Sport 15m
2		★★★ The Blarney Stone Left line through the small roof, then follow the relentless diagonal breaks.	24	Sport 15m
3		★★ Pink Eye (On My Leg) Right line through small roof, large cobblestone sloper broke at lip while working the line.	25	SportProjeto 15m
4		★★ Mutilated Lips Start of the gently overhanging terrain, keep on slabbing to the top. Topout left near walk down decent. Bring thick skin, helmet, sense of adventure.	19	Sport 25m
5		?? Is there a route here? IF so please describe.	20	Sport
6		★★ The Golden Eel Wrestle the golden eel through some seriously steep terrain.	21	Sport 18m
7		★★ The Mollusk Another absurdly steep specimen. Climbs the burly arete on mind defying enlarged scoops. The mollusk lingers, with it's wandering eye. FA: A.Alexander & A.Child, 2012	21	Sport 18m
8		★★ Cold Blows the Wind Proud line up the middle of the cliff, to top out at the spectacular viewpoint up top. The intended start was from the North shelf, but needs a few more bolts to reach the lower belay ledge. For now can be accessed from the South Side - I'm dancing in the show tonight, then traversing the South Side Platform belay ledge.	20	Sport 25m

1.2.3. The North Shelf 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Lat / Long: -32.335788, 152.550168

descrição

• This crag is a sea cliff. Access is strictly under small swell conditions. Even on a medium swell day around 3 foot waves can make it treacherous for access.

• The rock is loose, and the rock is sharp. It's good adventure climbing, but it's just as rough on your rope as it is your skin.

• Wear helmets. The belay's are generally tucked out of the way of the climb, but there is loose conglomerate rock.

• Routes are 15-30m, starting from a belay ledge. Multipitch climbing skills are essential for this style of climbing.

• Communication while climbing will be hindered as the longer climbs start off through gently overhanging terrain and finish up the long slab.

• The longer routes top out, and are best cleaned by a 2nd who also tops.

• Lowering off is best avoided, with options such as abseiling and bringing up the 2nd climber advised where possible (to minimise rope wear and tear).

acesso

30m rap from the north end. Be careful walking down the steep grassy hill, abseil to ground, then continue to abseil down into the zawn area. This is where the rope is likely to get stuck when pulling, so a short scramble may be required to retrieve.

It's rap in climb out, there is no other way to walk out unless the seas are flat.

There are 4 climbs here all graded 20, they hold ok in small swells starting at roughly 5- 10m above sea level.

descent notes

Do not rap in during big swells, check the zawn first from ween wall. If access to the south side looks dodgy, the north side won't be much better. Likely to involve a 4m grade 14 exposed unroped solo/scramble as the rope will get snagged on a million chicken heads once pulled. Bring 2 ropes and leave one fixed if in doubt. Rap in climb out, can not walk out unless seas are flat. Not all climbs top out! You need to climb out, bring a head torch if your starting late, helmet also advised!

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		?? Is there a route here before the half finished direct start to Cold Blows the Wind? IF so please describe.	20	Sport
2		★★ Polka Dot Tail Left most route, steep then slab.	20	Sport 20m
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
3		★★ Tentacles expanding in my mind	20	Sport 20m
4		★★ Ocean Man	20	Sport 25m

1.3. Yagon 1 route in Unknown

Summary:

All Boulder

descrição

Yagon Gibber Headland

2. Index by grade

Grade		Stars	Name	Style	Pop	Area
13		★	Shield	Sport 20m		1.1. Boomerang Slabs
14		★	Nulla Nulla	Sport 20m		1.1. Boomerang Slabs
		★	Dean & Gene Ween	Sport 12m, 3		1.2.1. Ween Wall
15		★	Woomera	Sport 20m		1.1. Boomerang Slabs
16		★	I'm Dancing in the Show Tonight	Sport 15m		1.2.2. Southern Platform
17		★★	Hunting Spear	Sport 20m		1.1. Boomerang Slabs
18		★	Buenos Tardes Amigo	Sport 12m, 4		1.2.1. Ween Wall
19		★★	Boomerang	Sport 20m		1.1. Boomerang Slabs
		★★	Mutilated Lips	Sport 25m		1.2.2. Southern Platform
V1			Yagon Slope	Boulder 5m		1.3. Yagon
20			??	Sport		1.2.2. Southern Platform
		★★	Cold Blows the Wind	Sport 25m		1.2.2. Southern Platform
			??	Sport		1.2.3. The North Shelf
		★★	Ocean Man	Sport 25m		1.2.3. The North Shelf
		★★	Polka Dot Tail	Sport 20m		1.2.3. The North Shelf
		★★	Tentacles expanding in my mind	Sport 20m		1.2.3. The North Shelf
21		★★	The Golden Eel	Sport 18m		1.2.2. Southern Platform
		★★	The Mollusk	Sport 18m		1.2.2. Southern Platform
22		★	Push th' Little Daisies	Sport 12m		1.2.1. Ween Wall
24		★★★	The Blarney Stone	Sport 15m		1.2.2. Southern Platform
25		★★	Pink Eye (On My Leg)	SportProjeto 15m		1.2.2. Southern Platform