Grade | Via | Estilo de equipamento | Popularidade | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Northern Rivers Fechado Island Quarry | |||||
18 | Milk Mada
. | ||||
Northern Rivers Surf Rock | |||||
22 | arete burning
Start under arete. 2m right of TB. Climb along arete. FA: 2012 | 13m | |||
13 | Dragon Breath
On East face 5m R of CL. Up face. Abseil down to Start above water. FA: Za Utopia, 2013 | 15m | |||
11 | Robyn, Pauline
first climb in 2nd gully, next 7 climbs anchor of 2 carrots at top. FA: 2013 | 10m | |||
10 | Ancestral spirits
2m R of P FA: 2013 | 10m | |||
6 | Soul Eternal
2m R AS , up easy face corner FA: 2013 | 10m | |||
8 | Fly free
2m R of SE, up easy face FA: 2013 | 10m | |||
13 | 3 eagles
2m R of Ff FA: 2013 | 10m | |||
15 | take you home
start under roof 2m R of 3e. FA: 2013 | 10m | |||
14 | to the stars
climb wall to the chimney. FA: 2013 | 10m | |||
★★ corner climb
next gully wall, anchor of rock - need long rope for anchor. climb up corner 1m R of TTS. | 10m | ||||
18 | ★★ razor fingers
start 2m right of corner climb. straight up middel of face on sharp holds that draw blood. crux at start. FA: 2012 | 13m | |||
16 | ★★ sea side style
start 2m right of razor fingers. up wall 2m then traverse left across RF on small ledge then straight up. FA: 2012 | 13m | |||
arete
| 13m | ||||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Killowatts | |||||
18 | ★ chip
Direct route with same start as thunder. First move would be a 19 and don't use the thin crack on the left after gaining first ledge. FA: Bruce Jones, 2002 | 13m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Sawtell Mal's Rock | |||||
21 | Spinal Tap
Center of east face. Strenuous all the way | 5m | |||
19 | Shredder
North face, Start 1m in from NE arete. Start is overhanging slightly then move 1.5ms to right and straight up. Last 2m are small crimpers. | 8m | |||
22 | Nemisis
West face, 1m left of SW arete. Technical on small crimpers. At the top traverse to left and mantle over the overhanging rock. | 7m | |||
17 | Double Trouble
South face, 1.5m to right of SW arete. Start is slightly overhanging up to first ledge. Then on to second ledge and on to top | 5m | |||
19 | Fine Young Crack
3m right of 'Double Trouble' Follow the thin small crack to top. Not easy. | 6m | |||
20 | Backbone
North East arete. Hard start then easier to top. | 8m | |||
17 | Pointless
South East arete. A knife edge arete with some fine moves. | 5m | |||
15 | Confusion
Directly behind 'Fine Young Crack'. A mainline climb with lots of useless holds, hence the confusion. | 7m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Sawtell Claire's Crag | |||||
14 | Junkie
| 8m | |||
12 | Parental Judgement
| 8m | |||
8 | Cry Baby
| 8m | |||
10 | Diapers
| 8m | |||
Mid North Coast Hat Head Korogoro | |||||
16 | ★★★ Top Hat
Approx 30 m's before the grassy bowl above the slot, head right and steep downhill to the tope-rope anchors. Use long slings or set-up rope to reduce rope drag Set: S. Negus on self-belay, 2019 | 18m | |||
14 | ★ Panama
1/2 way between Top Hat and the next water tanks, head right and down, to the small promitory over the little bay, to the tope-rope anchors. Panama is on the south side of the anchors Set: S. Negus on self-belay, 2019 | 10m | |||
14 | Fedora
Same anchors as Panama, but Fedora is on the north side of them Set: S. Negus on self-bely, 2019 | 10m | |||
16 | ★ Beanie
The anchors are above the first wall opposite the "almost-an-island" lump of angled rock. Climb up the corner of the detached slab, or directly up the face Set: S. Negus on self-belay, 2015 | 17m | |||
15 | ★★★ Baseball
About 50m's east of Beanie the cliff line heads nth (left). Approx 5m's further along are the anchors. Baseball is on the south side of them, and looks like a slabby corner from above Set: S. Negus on self-belay, 2019 | 15m | |||
19 | ★ Beret
Same anchors as for Baseball, but on the Nth side. Some crap loose rock 1/2 way up, but mostly sound. Very sharp rock so watch rope drag Set: S. Negus on self-bely - got 1/2 way up then bailed!, 2019 | 15m | |||
15 | ★★★ Bowler
Anchors are directly above the obvious little rock pool visible from Baseball and Beret. Start on the slab face just to the left of the rock pool, moving right towards the arete only when necessary Set: S. Negus on self-belay, 2019 | 20m | |||
Mid North Coast South West Rocks Arakoon The Ledge | |||||
14 | ★ Green A
Greens A,B and C all use the tope-rope U bolts at the nth end of the ledge. Green A is on the arete just below the anchors. At low tide, rap down and climb up Set: S. Negus on self-belay, 2015 | 8m | |||
14 | Green B
About 3 m's south of Green A. Use long slings or setup rope to reduce rope drag Set: S. Negus on self-belay, 2015 | 8m | |||
15 | Green C
About 1 m South of Green B Set: S. Negus on self-belay, 2015 | 8m | |||
14 | ★ "G"
About 30m's Sth of Green anchors, there a anchors for "G", set low FA: G. Negus, 2019 | 10m | |||
Mid North Coast Crowdy Bay Diamond Head The Boat Hole Port Pillar | |||||
21 | ★★ Shimmy to the top
Same start for Shimmy the Mast, then mostly straight up between A Capsized Audience an Hard to Port staying on the face without using the block on the start of Hard to Port. Assigned grade waiting for repeat suggestions before firming up. | 10m | |||
Hunter Valley Watagans Monkey Face Practice Area | |||||
7 | Dougal's Crack
The dirty corner at the far left end of the cliff. FA: Matthew Arnott, Doug Beverage, David Gray, Lewis Carey & Brad Munro, 1980 | 8m | |||
15 | Deamon
The knobbly flake, 80m right of Dougal's Crack. FA: David Gray & Darrin Gray, 1982 | 9m | |||
Hunter Valley Watagans Monkey Face Rubble Box | |||||
12 | Xanado
Start beneath the orange scoop just left of Kabolos. Climb the groove till a move left brings an airy mantle onto a prominent ledge on the arete. Walk or scramble off. FA: David Gray & Darrin Gray, 1980 | 8m | |||
Hunter Valley Watagans Monkey Face The Ridge | |||||
21 | ★ Yuletide
The centre of wall left of finger crack avoiding the stacked blocks FA: Vanessa Wills & John Hollott, Aug 2019 | 7m | |||
Hunter Valley Watagans Gate Crag Walls of 2000 | |||||
19 | ★ Midway
The route directly up to the DBB in the middle of the wall, right of the flake up high. TR easily after doing pinch me I’m dreaming. | 12m | |||
Hunter Valley Watagans George's Road Main Cliff | |||||
17 | Missing Skin
FA: Darrin Gray & Kevin Walker, 1987 | 15m | |||
10 | Shear Delight
FA: Darrin Gray & Kevin Walker, 1987 | 15m | |||
Hunter Valley Port Stephens Iris Moore Park | |||||
1 | ★ Access ramp
| 8m | |||
20 - 22 | ★ First Buttress 1a
Commence at base of slab. Straight up the blunt arete split by a thin crack with increasing difficulty. | 14m | |||
19 | ★ 1b
Start as for 1a but at about half height traverse right and then up easier line | 14m | |||
17 | 1c
Up left of the basalt seam on the orange rock. Do not climb the basalt as it will crumble and kill your belayer. | 14m | |||
14 | Basalt
The dangerous basalt chimney. Not recommended. | 13m | |||
24 | The Pining Parrot
Start as for The Dead Albatross to first bolt, then left to stay left side of arete . Continue up past two little triangular rooflettes. No basalt or bridging to be left. Set up as toprope for now - use fixed hangers backed up with trad, or bolt plates at top of Bicycle Graveyard, or both. Set: John Hollott | 14m | |||
20 | Cracked Monkey
Essentially the easier mix-tape variant of Cracked It and Cocky Monkey. Start left up the corner to stepped arete left of CM, continuing up the corner crack once past the roof. Good as a toprope off the hex bolt anchor. | 18m | |||
20 | ★ 5
Up to ledge then up face - many variants, difficulty increases away from corner | 16m | |||
24 | ★★ 6a
Up to ledge head straight up on layaway to pockets and then crimps and long moves to top | 16m | |||
16 | ★ Seaweed
Up to ledge traverse right 1.5m and then up on good holds to undercling and top Start: As for 6a | 15m | |||
15 | ★ Rolled Stoned
Up wide chimney near tide line, on often wet holds, taking care of block near top | 14m | |||
13 | Salt Spray
| 14m | |||
Hunter Valley Port Stephens Kingsley Beach Kingsley ampitheatre Tiger wall | |||||
16 | ★ Flake thing
The corner on the left of the wall, up flakes to top | 5m | |||
17 | ★ Liger
Straight up face right of prominent flake | 5m | |||
16 | Liger ramp
Start as for liger but follow diagonal line to the right | 5m | |||
18 | Stripy
The blunt arete 3 m right of The flake | 5m | |||
23 | ★ Like a tiger....Rrrrrrrarrrr
Right of blunt arete up thin seam, starting at two knobs | 5m | |||
Hunter Valley Port Stephens Kingsley Beach Kingsley ampitheatre Black wall | |||||
21 | Lancelot
Up the left side of sinuous rib of rock in centre of wall | 6m | |||
23 | Percival
Right side of sinuous rib of rock in centre of the wall. Left of scar-like feature to pocket and straight up past the horizontal break. Top section is likely much harder if not tall. | 6m | |||
23 | ★★ Galahad
Into alcove just right of nose. Up over nose onto slab, easier if tall | 6m | |||
22 | ★ Roxy
1m right of nose up and left on diagonal line | 6m | |||
23 | ★ Merlin
Overhung arete, a bit contrived but fun | 6m | |||
19 | ★ Arthur
Left facing corner with vegetation. Overhung start just left of rooflet at half height. Good stemming | 6m | |||
20 | ★ Valentine
Start where platform drops a metre heading left and up flake | 5m | |||
21 | ★ Mr Pickles
Straight up line just left of open book corner | 5m | |||
20 | ★ Gazelle
Finger crack just right of open book corner | 5m | |||
Hunter Valley Port Stephens Scout Wall Beginner Wall | |||||
8 | ★ Layback Crack
| 5m | |||
4 | ★ Face
| 5m | |||
2 | Corner
| 5m | |||
Hunter Valley Port Stephens The Slot West Wall | |||||
21 | Slot Machine
The flaring but good crack on climber's left/south of Licked. Just below and to the left of the single top carrot. Start on the obvious platform. Grade is all in the hard last move. FA: John Hollott, 16 Sep 2019 | 12m | |||
Hunter Valley Port Stephens The Slot The Slit | |||||
North East Arete
Triple Hex Bolt Belay on north side, east end. | |||||
14 | BridgeClimb
South side Triple Hex Belay. Opposite eastern-most bolt. Bridge. | 8m | |||
22 | Slit of the Tongue
South side Triple Hex Belay. Opposite Eastern-most bolt, FACE only, to right of mini arete feature. | 8m | |||
15 | Ex Step Father
South side Triple Hex Belay. Opposite western-most bolt. Bridge. | 8m | |||
21 | Freudian Slit
South Side Triple Hex Belay. Opposite western-most bolt. Face only. Crimps to hollow sounding flake (take care) to duo pocket and up. | 8m | |||
12 | Science Technology Engineering Maths
Top rope from trees and cracks on northern side, 2 metres inland from the triple bolt belay. Where bedrock basalt meets the sand. Bridge. | 8m | |||
22 | Slit Lamp
From Toprope belay as for STEM, follow the series of flakes (security not guaranteed!). FACE ONLY. Starts from the basalt on the floor where it peaks. | 8m | |||
12 | The Narrows
Bridge the narrowest part of the slot. 3m inland from STEM and Slit Lamp. Toprope anchor from shrubs and cracks. | 8m | |||
18 | The Bosphorus
From toprope anchor of The Narrows. Right side, following large side pull feature. FACE only. | 8m | |||
15 | Dire Straits
From toprope anchor of The Narrows, left side through easy. FACE only. | 8m | |||
21 | Single Slit Interference
Use trad anchor and follow side-pull features on south wall opposite Dire Straits. FACE only. | 8m | |||
Hunter Valley Port Stephens The Surge The Surgery | |||||
18 | ★★ Left of arch
Top rope anchors only. Belay from the two ring bolts on the small platform above water | 14m | |||
Hunter Valley Port Stephens Morna point South Wall | |||||
18 | ★★ Dugong
From the start of #7 'Crustaceans'. Climb up from corner to anchors of #9 'MOAR'. | 9m | |||
22 | ★ Stop Wanking direct
Top rope- straight up thin seam and crack to anchors. Dirty. | 10m | |||
21 | ★ Cyclone Debbie
The line straight up to the anchors of Toadfish. Travels up via finger locks, a small sentry box and crack to shared anchors. | 14m | |||
Hunter Valley Port Stephens Morna point Back wall Highball sector | |||||
23 | ★★ Antiseptic chalk
The corner crack and stemming | 7m | |||
20 | Flatten the curve
Up right of the block and jump out right | 6m | |||
19 | ★★ Fatten the cuvee
Left of the block | 6m | |||
Hunter Valley Port Stephens Treatment Plant Plant 4 waterfront | |||||
23 | ★★ Madam Dictator
The left most route closest to the ocean starting under a triangular roof Hard moves under and over the roof then more easily to the top FA: David Gray & Vanessa Wills, 26 Jan 2018 | 6m | |||
21 | ★ Mr Supercilious
The twin thin cracks just right of triangular roof FA: 2018 | 6m | |||
21 | ★ Parking Problems
The steep stemming corner with a large hueco on the left wall. Tricky exit. | 7m | |||
22 | ★★ German generosity
The arête right of PP and face holds to the right of arête. | 7m | |||
20 | ★ To Hell and Back
The arête to the right of TR with a nice hueco up high | 6m | |||
Hunter Valley Port Stephens Tomaree Head Penguins Promenade | |||||
18 | ★ Crack-arete
Start at crack below arete, then continue up arete staying to its left mainly.Would be bold on gear | 15m |