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The obvious 10m wide crack 15m left of the arête of 'Parasite Drag'. The wide upper half is protectable by RP's, if you don't have big gear larger than a #6. After the initial difficulties, scramble up over blocks to decent fig tree. Take care with the loose rocks.

Really good. The desperate blank V-groove once had a piton in it, although the "Ethics Police" removed it... 3 times! (It had been climbed for 15 years without need of a piton!) Despite appearances, the groove can be climbed quite safely using friction, prayer and a whole bunch of RP's and micro cams. Flop onto the ledge, whimper and gaze upwards! From here a magnificent corner featuring 3 cracks and classic climbing await you.

A variant finish to MPFC. Start up MPFC, from the ledge turn away from the amazing corner on the left and tear up the grotty crack on the right wall.

Some people really like this climb; I don't. Climb the shallow corner 5m R of DR2000 and then follow the line. Fiddly pro and dirty rock add to the experience. Belay either hanging from the tree (desperate but strangely cool), or get onto the ledge R of the tree and belay from there.

The R hand line on the same buttress. Disgusting, confused climbing that goes nowhere.

Really good climbing that deserves to be more popular. Follow the crack system to the large ledge. From here, blast up the off-width corner, stopping to wonder how people stay attached to WK! Step R up a face crack, to anchors on ledge (60m rope needed). Multiple pieces of 5 camalot size are essential to do this route safely.

Complete and utter mank. A vine-filled pile of crap that should never have been climbed.

Not a whole lot better. Climb OF for the first few meters to a ledge. From there, step R into a dark corner and up. Halfway up the corner, step R at a piton that may hold an ant's body weight. Scarily up the arete to the top of the pillar. Down climb this easily to get off.

The rarely done bread stroker's alternate start was the original start...not recommended. Start up the off-width 1m to the L at the V-Groove.

Was the scene of a freak accident in 2006.

Climber survived a ground fall after his rope was sliced in two by the sharp edge.

A good place to practice placing big bros etc. This short very wide crack is an absolute must for all aspiring masters of the trutch!

Classy climbing unfortunately marred by a ledge at half height. Bridge desperately or layback the thin crack up the dark corner to a ledge. Rest here and then launch up the classy line above. One tricky move sees you to the top. A little weird to protect in places. But the gear is great once you figure it out.

The best line off the ledge. A very smooth corner with some grunty finger locking the key to success. Great gear and movement make this a must do. Rap anchor.

Takes the crack revealed by the old rock fall right of Southern Comfort. Looks quite good until you look at the large rock only just held in by a tree root directly above it.

This wide and daunting crack has seen more than its fair share of aspiring leaders turned into a dribbling, pumped, senseless mass of despair! The gear is excellent, but make sure you take up plenty of big gear to protect this climb adequately. Without this protection, a ground fall is extremely probable. Lay back up the first crack on polished foot holds to a ledge at 6m. From here, thrash up the wide crack until it is possible to step R. Easily to the top.

A blight on the face of the world. 10 sticks of dynamite could only assist in making this climb slightly better. The wide, loose, dark line, full of loose blocks and worse!

Instead of climbing left of it, go straight up the almost perfect crack in the almost perfect corner. This used to be graded 17, but the thrashing feet of 10 thousand struggling leaders have reduced this to a spit polished sandbag.

A variant finish to Piranha. It features quite nice climbing, but the rock quality is questionable in places. Off the ledge, climb Piranha until it steps L, and keep going out L across the wall. Breathe a sigh of relief when you reach the crack, bumble up above with great moves and gear.

A contender for the best 19 in the country! The old school off-width is the only way to go for apprentice gruntologists. All the sane people start in the corner to the R. Up this past a tricky move out of a cave at 1/3 height to a stance (crux). From here, up the beautifully sculpted line to the top. Simply magnificent climbing. Rapping on a 70m rope will get you to the middle of the scramble at the base of the climb.

An absolutely brutal start up the narrow V-groove splitting the pillar to the L of WC. From here easily up to the level of WC ledge. Follow up a short hard corner, with the last moves at the top keeping things interesting.

A classic one-move wonder, the face R of WC. Start off the ledge on the R. Wobble up on thin and balancy moves until a jug on the L arete comes to hand. Easily up the line past a piton (hidden from view) to a tricky little mantle move at the ledge. Easily up to Plume ledge.

Innocently evil! This fine-looking hand crack very quickly turns into a fiendish off-width. Some loose choss to negotiate when first entering the body crack. Most chock stones wobble until up high. Committing

Although the climbing is actually quite good, the rock on this orange corner at half height is loose and hollow, so be cautious on the lead.

Classic crack climbing, an excellent example of jamming at Frog. Start at the obvious crack on the far L of Warlock Ledge. A tricky start to get established in the crack (watch out for the loose rock), and then magnificent jamming up the line. Finish at the ledge and rap chains above.

Very nice! Step in from the left, and boulder R to the jug. From here, climb the beautiful line and finger crack to a stance below a corner. This corner provides beautiful positions and stances, and finishes up an easier crack to the top.

Not pleasant. Up the initial fist crack to a horror blank corner above the fig.

Classic crack climbing. Start at the finger crack as it continues to widen the whole way up the route. Don't be fooled by the wide nature of the top, although big gear is essential to protect this route (#4 and #5 BD cams won't go astray), you are able to bridge past almost all of the wide thrashing! A 70m rope will get you back to the ground from the chain around the tree.

A real waste of 2 bolts. Start up the same arete as BS. Clip the first bolt of BS, then up the poxy little line to another bolt. Step R and get off as soon as you can.

Used to be graded 18, so it was the scene of many a bruised and battered ego. Start up the initial corner to a gruntologist's fantasy move. Finish with much style to the top. There is a bolted rap station at the top of the route to get off.

A strenuous and rewarding test piece jamming problem. Brilliant gear and tricky finger locks see you to a good stance at 2/3 height. Finish easily. Rap off DBB directly above the route.

Yet more crap. The disgusting groove directly above OOAL. Why would you do this to yourself?

Crap. Blast up one off-width, and then, just as it gets good, traverse L at a grotty horizontal to yet another off-width! No real quality movement can be found on this route.

Starts about 6m R of IOTN, just before the track veers L. Up a crappy, grunty short crack to the arete. Up this past 1 bolt. Not very good.

What a contrived waste of time. Go up the moss-laden slab to the R of MB on to a ledge. From there, go easily up a fun little pocketed wall to the finish. No worthwhile protection can be found in the bottom 2/3 of this route.

Absolutely brutal and unrelenting off-width climbing at its worst. Feels closer to 23. The chockstones mentioned in the Joe Lynch guide must have fallen out! Take big gear, elbow pads, grim determination and a vomit bag. You can get off this disgusting pile of crap as for BB.

Really good climbing that deserves to be done more often! Climb the tricky crack system to where it widens for a metre at about 1/2 height. Whack in a big cam and climb the tricky constricting bottleneck to a good jam and stance. Whimper for joy and continue easily to a big ledge. Finish here or, for full value, do the direct finish! Rap as for NP.

Funny twin corner systems with a tiny arete in between making use of both at the same time challenging! Up these (wondering how this route was ever graded 12) to ledge then continue up crack past tree to ledge at top of Ethicmans Dilemma.

A crappy little climb. Start on the R side of the pillar. Go up the micro seam 2m L of the arete, stepping up and around L to a stance, and a now completely pointless 1st bolt at knee height. Finish easily.

Climb the obvious tower 40m left across the talus field from the “Freeloader” arete. Straight up the middle of the face to an exposed finale on the free standing tower. Can gain the top of the tower for a great seat and view.

Named after the Staghorn above the anchors. Climbs right side of arete. First bolt stick clip or reach off the slab. Tricky moves up the arete as you roll around the arete onto the face. Fancy face climbing to the chains. Well protected for the grade.

Belay from the ledge and not the ground, it's a long 30m. Without clipping any FH on Ain't No Sunshine. Stay in the corner and climb it on good holds passing 2 FH. Continue up tending left on quite thin edges and pockets. Past another 5 FH. Continue up and left. Another two FH and good holds up to mallions. Start: Left of Ain't No Sunshine

Climb through a small overhang in a corner on some crusty holds.

Up face of detached pillar on good holds to FH. A bunch of brutal moves takes you past the final 2 FH. Carefully exit left over easy terrain to find a pair of mallions.

Start: Near the large boulder.

Start: Just right of the impressive rock spire housing The Imperial Wizard. Thin fingers needed for the thin crack at the top. Stick clipping might not be a bad idea. Chains beneath the overhang.

Start: Directly below the impressive finger of rock (see cover photo above). About 8m right of "CK".

Up the left side of the impressive and rather phallic looking wizard.

13 FHs to the top, chains and U-bolt at the anchor. Lower off using a 70m with a few meters to spare.

Start: 2m right of Short Ganged, on the other side of the bush.

Note: there is a bounty of trad gear placements on this route, if one so chooses.

Start: The front of the pillar that constitutes Green Line.

Up the face, trending slightly Right, passing 2 horizontal breaks, then straight up, some thin cracks & gear on the Right, to a shallow crack on top & top-out.

Small gear.

P1 20m - Up Deep Throat to chamber & belay. P2 45m - Exit this out right to broken rock & up this to positive ledge & belay.

Start 8m Left of TLS.

Take wires and small cams. You can approach the overhang from either side, the crux is after the overhang. Plenty of gear higher up. Re-equipped with RBs in 2020.

Up right side edge of big cave.

Starts from the bottom, up right bypass the cave.

In the cave above are some acrobatic moves at the start of the second pitch. Easy finish up the face to the top. Great photo opportunity. Can be done from the bottom of the cave (Alison's Variant) or the ledge above depending on your vertical disadvantage. This cave also serves as a rap station for a single 50m rope.

Starts below the third cave. Half-way up it crosses the Path of Lichen and goes on up past the right side of the cave

Starts right 15m up hill at the big pointy flake of rock leaning against the wall, which aids the vertically challenged

Starts at the same pointy flake as PB

1. 30m 19 - Start at vague left facing corner 100m left of The Graveyard Ridge (wait for photo upload). Crux pitch; up this on thin holds & run-out gear to easier ground.

2. 45m - Up the slab, trending toward the prominent right facing corner & crack above. Sparse gear.

3. 20m - Up the crack corner (off-width) to ledge.

4. 12m - Up the short face above to top-out

(Route lengths are approximate, but can be done in 3 pitches on today's 60m ropes.)

Named at the restaurant in Beaudesert, after the FA.

Tony took a big fall on pitch 2, running it out with no modern gear back then & ended up straddling a Bushboy stump.

1. Start right of POV, route trends right across the blank face

2. Unknown

3. Ending up in the trees & vegetation on the right.

Right of Outish Bong, around the middle of the N.E. Buttress.

Off the pillar (committing move), then follow the crack to the top - as shown in the topo.

The prominent crack in the middle of the lower cliff, R of Something Special. A beautiful line up the leaning flake/crack. Rap off small tree on ledge above - out right.

Start: At 5th belay of Beau Brummel

1. __m gr? Straight up from belay following a crack line.

2. __m gr? Continue to top.

2 pitches, about 60m, the grade is around 19ish.

Start: same as Ruby Of India

1. 45m 14 - Pitch 1 of ROI

2. 35m 14 - Up through the crux, up the Left leaning ledge for a few metres, then make your way up Right to the base of the cliff above as per topo.

3. 50m 19 - Up the wall below the big off-width as per the topo, do not get entangled in the nasty off-width, then out Left on face, then up to the vegetated ledge above. cross the vegetated veranda

4. 50m 12 - Up the broken wall as per the topo, arriving at the belay ledge for DII

5. 50m 19 - From the belay, out Left, following the Deception Link-Up Route for a few metres, then up the first prominent crack to top.

The thin crack in a small alcove, about 20m left of Skylark. Up the crack on small gear & inventive moves to the overhanging tree.

Start just r. of Romulus, up the scooped wall to the FH, then out r. & up (some gear) to same TB as Romulus.

Thin crack 2m left of Slush Puppy. Up face, following weakness & crack, with adequate gear, traverse left onto big L facing ledge near the top, finish up this. Belay from cable on tree above Slush Puppy. A single 50m rope will get you to the ground.

Scooped left facing crack, 2m r. of Ghostly Hand DS. Up the thin crack on small gear, step r. onto face at diagonal crack, then easier moves to chains at top.

1. As for Yoni

2. As for Yoni

3. As for Yoni

4. unknown

5. unknown

The Left-most of the 2 main cracks.

A 4" overhung crack, rather strenuous. Nice layback start. Offers a chockstone at half height.

Thin finger crack Left of OBC. Up to same ledge as OBC & TB.

Locate the flake Right of OBC.

Up Right side of flake, then Left across ledge to thin handcrack & up to ledge & TB.

"The best, first, & hardest route here. Three hard pitches up this magnificent corner." (Rick's original entry for RURP magazine September 1972.)

The 2nd prominent Right facing corner, Left of SHB. Straight up the manky chimney/corner passing an overhanging block at 40-50m.

Has the distinction of being the very first route established at Maggie's Farm.

Start: at the yellow corner below Widow Maker (see topo).

Diagonal hand & finger crack that splits a slab then up a pillar to a ledge. After the ledge, up another diagonal to the Right.

2 short pitches following a delightful crack-line splitting the main buttress.

1. Easily up to top of small pillar, then straight up hand crack splitting the face to a small ledge & loose block. Then up the wider crack to a large ledge.

2. Up over large blocks to the next ledge, then ascend the 3" crack splitting the face.

The route ends at same ledge as Mother Superior: TB. Lower off back down the route, or down MS & walk back down hill to the start.

Up above Speed Crack. Walk up to Tough Mamma Wall, tben follow the ledge back up left.

Initialled "MI" - A short, hard, 5" crack narrows to 3" at the top. A #5 cam is handy.

Rap off tree. Speed Crack joins this at the top.

Inside corner just Left of Dutch Courage. The dodgy corner crack with a deadly flake.

Up the delicious crack at the bottom of the gully to a bushy ledge.

Hard, very sustained fist jambing. A second pitch is possible - of poor quality.

Clean thoroughly with a brush beforehand to temporarily vacate the spiders.

Start matching on a flake, head up with a few jugs and crimps to a slopey match at the horizontal seam.

Sit start in the crack and head straight up.

The line between Nauplius and WFLB, straight up to TB above the overhang

Was originally intended as 'the warm-up climb', turning out to be a great line with lots of character. It earned its name due to the balance required in several places throughout the line. 4m left of GCR, to start. Top belay is possible from the very convenient ledge, if you wish to share an awesome view with your climbing buddy.

Scott earnt his slow cigar on this one. Almost 30years for his first FFA. More pockets and fun times.

Dedicated to the former block of dubious integrity. May be harder, depending on the path you choose.