Grade | Via | Estilo de equipamento | Qualidade | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sat 21st Oct 2023 - Keperra bushland | |||||||
Lizard Lane | |||||||
12 | ★★ Elbow Grease | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 21st Oct 2023 - Keperra bushland | |||||||
Control tower | |||||||
12 | ★★ Control tower | 7m | ★ Good | ||||
12 | ★★ Control tower | 7m | ★ Good | ||||
Wed 2nd Aug 2023 - Keperra bushland | |||||||
Northern Lowballs | |||||||
V0 | ★ LB | 2m | ★ Good | ||||
V0 | The Chicken | 2m | |||||
Fri 5th May 2023 - Keperra bushland | |||||||
Control tower | |||||||
V1 | Ailerons | 3m | |||||
Mon 3rd Apr 2023 - Keperra bushland | |||||||
Taurus-Littow Slab | |||||||
V0- | Pegmatites | 3m | |||||
Mon 5th Sep 2022 - Keperra bushland | |||||||
Control tower | |||||||
19 | ★★ Aerials | 7m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
12 | ★★ kalsarikännit | 7m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
12 | ★★ Control tower | 7m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Mon 5th Sep 2022 - Keperra bushland | |||||||
Lizard Lane | |||||||
12 | ★★ Elbow Grease | 12m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Thu 23rd Jun 2022 - Keperra bushland | |||||||
Northern Lowballs | |||||||
Ice Cream | 1m | ||||||
It was all looking good until I broke the good footer. Will probably be much harder and a bit more contrived now
|
|||||||
V1 | FA ★ TLB | 3m | ★ Good | ||||
It is a great two moves. Many different betas possible at around the same grade too
|
|||||||
Tue 11th Jan 2022 - Keperra bushland | |||||||
Northern Lowballs | |||||||
V1 | ★ TLB | 3m | ★ Good | ||||
V0 | ★ LB | 2m | ★ Good | ||||
Thu 2nd Sep 2021 - Keperra bushland | |||||||
Lizard Lane | |||||||
17 | ★★ Lizard Lane - with Yan | 10m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fun climb. Got my arm stuck at the crux when I fell. =( I will come back to it.
|
|||||||
Sat 14th Aug 2021 - Keperra bushland | |||||||
Lizard Lane | |||||||
19 17 | ★★ Lizard Lane - with Mia Balogh | 10m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sent headpoint style. A No.5 can be used as a horizontal at the crux for a quicker placement than the green in the slot.
The grade is off at 16/17 in my opinion. The moves are almost all in that awkward space between V0 and V1 to me - the long lock off at the end especially. I think this should either be upgraded or everything else downgraded (possibly both) - these are by a good margin the hardest roped moves at the crag and they're the most sustained (everything else has a handsfree rest at some point). The climbing is very good - near my limit for sure. |
|||||||
Tue 10th Aug 2021 - Keperra bushland | |||||||
Control tower | |||||||
V4 | ★★★ Kentucky Fried Crimpin | 4m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Complete battle. Smallest holds I've pulled on yet. Lapped 2x. Most similar in style to Free Ryder in Ashgrove but I think this one is a bit harder (may be a 5?)
|
|||||||
Sun 11th Jul 2021 - Keperra bushland | |||||||
Northern Lowballs | |||||||
V0 | ★ LB | 2m | ★ Good | ||||
Tue 4th May 2021 - Keperra bushland | |||||||
Lizard Lane | |||||||
17 | ★★ Lizard Lane | 10m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
17 | ★★ Lizard Lane | 10m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
17 | ★★ Lizard Lane | 10m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tue 4th May 2021 - Keperra bushland | |||||||
Control tower | |||||||
12 | ★★ Control tower | 7m | |||||
15 19 | ★★ Aerials | 7m | ★ Good | ||||
Unsure of the grade, with good positioning and cranking on the sidepull and sloping ledge the horizontal crack is reached. Cool climb,
Another highball V1/2 |
|||||||
12 | ★★ kalsarikännit | 7m | |||||
Because it's there!
-GM |
|||||||
V1 | Ailerons | 3m | |||||
Tue 4th May 2021 - Keperra bushland | |||||||
Lizard Lane | |||||||
12 | ★★ Elbow Grease | 12m | |||||
V1 | Gish Gallop | Average | |||||
Sent as a boulder problem. Didn't touch the hanging block.
|
|||||||
10 | Fool's Gold rhv | ||||||
15 | ★★ Fool's Gold | ★★ Very Good | |||||
17 | ★★ Lizard Lane | 10m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Cool jams, the top out hold went static.
Onsighted as a boulder. Highball V2 |
|||||||
Sun 28th Feb 2021 - Keperra bushland | |||||||
Lizard Lane | |||||||
10 | Fool's Gold rhv | ||||||
Sat 27th Feb 2021 - Keperra bushland | |||||||
Lizard Lane | |||||||
17 | ★★ Lizard Lane - with Julian Miller | 10m | |||||
12 | ★★ Elbow Grease - with Julian Miller | 12m | |||||
Mon 28th Dec 2020 - Keperra bushland | |||||||
Ammo Box Blox | |||||||
17 17 - 19 | ★★ Squamish Dreaming RHV | 4m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Probably height dependent like most things here
No real gear possible, anchor from within squeeze crack |
|||||||
Sun 22nd Nov 2020 - Keperra bushland | |||||||
Kindy Wall | |||||||
14 | ★ Chemical valley | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Rope management is difficult. There's ample regular-sized pro for this one
|
|||||||
12 13 | ★ Nap time | Average | |||||
Not a 16. Very bush bashy at the moment - down lead to save time
|
|||||||
Sun 22nd Nov 2020 - Keperra bushland | |||||||
Control tower | |||||||
14 19 | ★★ Aerials | 7m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
The first mantle is a bit tricky. The last mantle is better the further left you go - almost feels exposed
|
|||||||
Sun 22nd Nov 2020 - Keperra bushland | |||||||
Lizard Lane | |||||||
13 15 | ★★ Fool's Gold | ★ Good | |||||
The first few moves are completely contrived, the rhv is a much more obvious line.
|
|||||||
14 12 | ★★ Elbow Grease | 12m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
A weird kneelock/kneebar hybrid was needed for me to do this. Maybe morpho?
Pro gets better after crux |
|||||||
Tue 6th Oct 2020 - Keperra bushland | |||||||
Northern Lowballs | |||||||
V0 | The Chicken | 2m | Average | ||||
V1 V1/2 | ★ The Egg | 2m | Average | ||||
V0 | Choss Whisperer | 2m | |||||
Wed 30th Sep 2020 - Keperra bushland | |||||||
Northern Lowballs | |||||||
V1 | ★ Page Fault | ★ Good | |||||
V2 V1/2 | ★ The Egg | 2m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Mantles are hard to grade
|
|||||||
Tue 11th Aug 2020 - Keperra bushland | |||||||
Kindy Wall | |||||||
16 13 | ★ Nap time - with Timmy | ||||||
Started further left and finished further right to try and make it more challenging. Very easy climbing
|
|||||||
14 | ★ Chemical valley - with Timmy | ||||||
V0- | Kindergarten cop-out - with Timmy | ||||||
Thu 25th Jun 2020 - Keperra bushland | |||||||
Scattered stones | |||||||
V0 | ★ Two left feet | ★ Good | |||||
Fri 22nd May 2020 - Keperra bushland | |||||||
Control tower | |||||||
12 | ★★ Control tower - with Jake Forker | 7m | ★ Good | ||||
Hardly worthy to be classified as a trad route; more like two very easy boulder problems, one on top of the other.
|
|||||||
Fri 22nd May 2020 - Keperra bushland | |||||||
Lizard Lane | |||||||
11 12 | ★★ Elbow Grease - with Jake Forker | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
A short, low-effort warm-up, but there's no way it's a grade 12. Nice set of chains at the top!
|
|||||||
12 | ★★ Elbow Grease | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
Wed 20th May 2020 - Keperra bushland | |||||||
Northern Lowballs | |||||||
V0 | Choss Whisperer | 2m | |||||
V0 | The Chicken | 2m | |||||
V0 | ★ LB | 2m | |||||
Sat 2nd May 2020 - Keperra bushland | |||||||
Lizard Lane | |||||||
18 12 | ★★ Elbow Grease | 12m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
About grade 10-12 if you treat it as a face climb. Found some larger cam placements deep inside the crack.
|
|||||||
16 17 | ★★ Lizard Lane | 10m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Pre placed gear, after a top rope practice.
|
|||||||
Sun 26th Apr 2020 - Keperra bushland | |||||||
Lizard Lane | |||||||
18 | ★★ Elbow Grease | 12m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Not sure if I did the right climb. The route I took was about grade 12, but cruisy fun. Straight up the wide crack in-between the two roofs to the chains at the top. I can’t imagine where else this climb would go. About 3 meters left of LL.
|
|||||||
16 | ★★ Lizard Lane | 10m | ★ Good | ||||
Took a couple of goes but I finally top roped this. This felt more like grade 18.
Spoilers - Here’s the BETA I used: Start in the centre of the crack system. A low sloping right foot hold helps you get your left foot on top of the low pointy boulder. Obvious ledge on the right for your right hand. Plenty of under clings on the left as you end up on the left of the crack system. Using lay back type moves you transition to the centre of the crack and stand up on the ledge with your right foot. You have a solid under cling under the squared off chock stone for your left hand. Right hand can fist jam high to give you a rest. Right hand goes as high as possible on right side of chock stone. Right foot out to the right at about waist high to a small wrinkle. It’s a lay back move on this wrinkle, reach up to the top of the chock stone with left hand, match with right and pull up, with some friction assist. In the recess on top edges of the chock stone are cracks to hold on to. Left foot jam as high as possible, right foot on slope. Crux: Left arm, horizontal arm bar, as in an arm bar for a horizontal crack, (elbow down, palm facing up on the roof) in recess above chock stone. Right hand to small hold directly above, just in reach. Once your right hand has this hold you get your left foot on top of the recess and climb over the top to the chains. Once I worked out the arm bar move the crux was a lot more doable. |
|||||||
Sun 26th Apr 2020 - Keperra bushland | |||||||
Ammo Box Blox | |||||||
4 | Wiggle room - with Jesse Comino | Average | |||||
Sun 26th Apr 2020 - Keperra bushland | |||||||
Control tower | |||||||
14 | ★★ Aerials - with Jesse Comino | 7m | ★ Good | ||||
Tue 21st Apr 2020 - Keperra bushland | |||||||
Lizard Lane | |||||||
18 12 | ★★ Elbow Grease | 12m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Mon 20th Apr 2020 - Keperra bushland | |||||||
Lizard Lane | |||||||
18 | ★★ Elbow Grease | 12m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Raining ascent in a moon boot - great fun with little friction!
|
|||||||
Mon 13th Apr 2020 - Keperra bushland | |||||||
Lizard Lane | |||||||
17 | ★★ Lizard Lane | 10m | |||||
Fri 10th Apr 2020 - Keperra bushland | |||||||
Kindy Wall | |||||||
15 | A climb for ants | Average | |||||
16 | ★ Nap time | Average | |||||
In the moon boot. Felt more like a bush bash
|
|||||||
Fri 10th Apr 2020 - Keperra bushland | |||||||
Lizard Lane | |||||||
18 | ★★ Elbow Grease | 12m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Moon bootin
|
|||||||
16 | ★★ Lizard Lane | 10m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Top rope moon boot
|
|||||||
Sat 28th Mar 2020 - Keperra bushland | |||||||
Lizard Lane | |||||||
16 | ★★ Lizard Lane | 10m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Practicing gear placements...I've got a long way to go
|
|||||||
Wed 25th Mar 2020 - Keperra bushland | |||||||
Kindy Wall | |||||||
14 | ★ Chemical valley | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Much better climb if you keep off the second large ledge on the right - gets some real squeeze crack action in!
|
|||||||
Sun 26th Jan 2020 - Keperra bushland | |||||||
Kindy Wall | |||||||
14 | ★ Chemical valley | ★★ Very Good | |||||
secure, feels very soft for the grade
|
|||||||
V0- | Kindergarten cop-out | Average | |||||
Mon 28th Jan 2019 - Keperra bushland | |||||||
Kindy Wall | |||||||
14 | ★ Chemical valley | ||||||
This area would be great for top ropping young kids
|
|||||||
15 | A climb for ants | ||||||
Nice little climb
|
|||||||
14 | ★ Cop out traverse | 8m | |||||
Nice little climb
|
|||||||
V0 | Six pack finger crack | 3m | |||||
See why its names 6 pack
|
|||||||
V0- | Kindergarten cop-out | ||||||
16 | ★ Nap time | ||||||
Bit of fun after visiting ferny grove tip
|
|||||||
Fri 4th Jan 2019 - Keperra bushland | |||||||
Control tower | |||||||
V1 | Ailerons | 3m | |||||
Fri 4th Jan 2019 - Keperra bushland | |||||||
Taurus-Littow Slab | |||||||
V1 | Anorthosites | 3m | |||||
V0- | Pegmatites | 3m | |||||
V2 | ★ Taurus-Littow traverse | 3m | |||||
Marked as V2... maybe an easy V3?
|
|||||||
Thu 20th Dec 2018 - Keperra bushland | |||||||
Kindy Wall | |||||||
V0 | FA Six pack finger crack | 3m | |||||
V0 14 | ★ Cop out traverse | 8m | |||||
15 | A climb for ants | ||||||
14 | ★ Chemical valley | ||||||
16 | ★ Nap time | ||||||
V0- | Kindergarten cop-out | ||||||
Thu 22nd Nov 2018 - Keperra bushland | |||||||
Scattered stones | |||||||
V1 | ★ Toxicity | 3m | |||||
V0 | BYOB | ||||||
V1 | ★ Suicide is painless | ||||||
V0 | Chop suey | ||||||
V0 | ★ Two left feet | ||||||
V0- | All thumbs | ||||||
Thu 20th Sep 2018 - Keperra bushland | |||||||
Scattered stones | |||||||
V0 | BYOB | ||||||
Makes a good finish to a session.
|
|||||||
V1 | ★ Suicide is painless | ||||||
Thu 20th Sep 2018 - Keperra bushland | |||||||
Lizard Lane | |||||||
Refined fool | |||||||
Watch out for the suspect blocks near the anchor. Climb clear of them.
|
|||||||
13 | Fool's Gold rhv | ||||||
Difficulty depends on how far right start.
|
|||||||
Mon 1st Jan 2001 - Keperra bushland | |||||||
Control tower | |||||||
12 | ★★ Control tower - with Craig Molloy | 7m | ★ Good | ||||
Can't remember if Craig did the FA, or I did.
|
|||||||
19 | ★★ Aerials - with Craig Molloy | 7m | |||||
Also can't remember if Craig did the FA or if it was me. It was named either "Airwaves" or "Aerials" - can't recall, although I'm leaning towards Airwaves. So named because of the view of the Mt Cootha TV station aerial towers (same with Control Tower).
|