Vias como trad em Sutherland

Start at Time spent taken needing small and offset protection up and over the overhang and finish up on TST's anchors

Grade 23/24? Start below large roof crack in middle of weathered wall. Up and out the roof crack. The manky old bolts need replacing. (Note Not recommend to climb water now continues to seep from crack slippery and loose

Left most climb. Up short featured face on left side of block. 1 rusty carrot for Belay. walk off possible. Easiest climb here.

Face up right side of block. 1 rusty carrot for Belay. walk off possible.

Starts at white square left of Bahs Crack. Head up face, past two rusty old pitons (clip at your peril) and over somewhat spicy roof to finish. Two rusty carrots up top but can extend anchor to tree next to railing with a bunch of long slings.

Up juicy hand crack between Crustcrust and Dumbpump. Stay off right face and get upon the roof crack. Belay off tree as for Dumbpump.

Up horizontal breaks on face to the right of Bah's Crack. Great moves. Belay off big tree next to railings.

Up left side of big cave and keep heading up. Old rusty carrot and two new ones on top for belay (although one had too big a head for any of my bolts plates to fit.)

Scramble down the cliff face below other climbs but still below lookout. Up corner using wide crack and face. Continue up left face. Belay off big gum tree left of Xanthorea and directly below Armburster.

Short offwidth in between Giles and Kim's moon project. Start above bush. Pretty good, no cheater holds. Too wide for hand stacks. Can bump a #6 cam the whole way up. Rap off bolts either side. Tom Bes FA

Offwidth in the middle of the main wall. Hand/fist for days with some ok feet thrown in. Top out to the left of overhanging block. Sling around tree back and to right for rapping off. Placed 09/2021. Tom Bes

Traverses right from the Fabulous Muppet show top anchors. Top out from top of triangle roof. A bit convoluted but would be great multi pitch practice on Trad gear. Take a No. 3 cam and one or two micro cams. Check top is clean, covered in leaves when I did it. You can pull your gear from above.

Great trad climbing, plugging cams into Arapiles style rock. 20m right of the main wall on an orange section. Long reach to first break and up to ledge and easy wall behind. Good cams (3 small ones to start, then small to hand size), someone has drilled holes in all the wrong places also.

Start just R of VC, follow the seam and holds on right then through bulge and seam. Classic Araplies style trad climbing on bomber rock. The top 4m was an old sport route on dangerous bolts. The new trad version was head-pointed (easy to toprope off Vintage Cuvee rings) to find gear including 2 good RPs in first seam, and a yellow and big Blue Camalot in the back of the cave before final bulge.

Up the chimney then out onto the wall above.

The following climb is located just right of the overhanging wall in the middle of the cliff (about 50m right of the Black Wall). Marked "X", 4m right of the overhanging wall. Sustained climbing up the steep wall (natural gear).

Roof crack splitter that starts as thin hands and ends with overhung wide trench. Well protected by cams from #0.75 Camalot to to #4 Camalot.

Fun layback flake on trad gear.

Start: Inside cave at left-hand corner crack. Follow crack all the way to roof (mid-sized cams), then out and up. DBB at top set back and to the right.

Up short seam (dodgy micro wires), then up wall (FH) and arete to double BB.

Start: Right side of arete.

Up DOB to FH, then move right following the seam (wires, mid size cam and FH). Up to double BB.

Cool features. Below the right hand side of the next arete to the right. Onto wall (FH) and left to the dyke (FH). Up (mid size cam) to double BB.

Medium cams finish at shared anchors

Start at internal crack and up to roof, traverse right then into crux overhang one RB and finish at anchors

Hard start up vertical crack, traverse right, mantel over finish at anchors.

Obvious finger crack, rap rings over the lip.

Mixed climb 2-3 cams at start continue to left side of arête and finish at anchors

As the name states though bring a large size rack, nice little practice warm up climb

Start at internal vertical crack and traverse left under roof then through chimney to finish to anchors.

An interesting Vee-crack followed by a flared bottomless offwidth. Take a #4 and #5 cam for the top. Double U bolts to lower off or belay on top of the pinnacle.

Mostly easy bridging up a hand and fist crack (or add thin roof crack start). Take (age/10) each of yellow and blue camalots, 2 hex 10s are handy too. Crack corner between TDD and JC, either step off block or crank thin crack start. Easilyto roof and a move, then up to final juggy chimney.

Streno thrash, great fun. Essential before a trip to Frog Buttress or Yosemite.The crux section had previously been done as part of The Shute. Medium wires, finger to hand cams and a fist cam above the thread and one for the top chimney.

Start up GOOT or 'Vitez' (trad) and traverse left in break at 10m then finish up Retro Crack (rings).

Start on face 1m right of Retro Crack. Hard off the ground to RB and trad up to pea pod. Up a bit then take the left-hand flake past 2 rings to a lower-off.

Pleasant crack to pea-pod and continue straight up the wide crack above past 3 stainless carrots.

Another wall finish to the 2 cracks, one very funky move... Start up Vitez or GOOT to pod, right a move to Inchworm Groove anchor then climb the wall a metre R of wide crack (Vitez DF) past 3 RBs to single U lower off.

Start in the corner crack 1 m Right of Get out of Town. Follow this up and over a bulge to the pea pod. Move right and clip the chain on IG then right again (past Medieval Remedies) to face climb past RBs to top off cliff and double RB lower off. According to the 1991 Rock Magzine guidebook to Sydney - this was actually the original finish to Get Out of Town!

Start as for Vitez. Follow this up to pea pod, at the left hand flake bust out right above Inchworm Groove anchors and take the two ringbolts above (extend last piece and the runners along traverse). Finish up the headwall dihedral on small gear to take the anchors above and right at the top of the cliff (Top of Nats Mega Proj). Fun mix of crack, slab and face climbing.

This one is for the hard nuts,it was once the hardest trad line in shire, and possibly NSW. Start: Below the thin seam, tenuous moves up the groove to lower off chain at half height or easily to top up anything nearby. Take small gear.

Sydney classic at the grade! A great example of a mixed route, requiring quite a bit of trad. Start on right side of main wall at the right leading groove/flake feature with very high first bolt (stick-clip it). Up the groove (2 RBs), sling the top of the feature and take a well earned rest. Finish up a exposed flake crack on left side of arete (cams and wires) then one final RB to lower-offs.

Start: Just right of arete, use pro as for OA.

The tricky looking Chimney

Start up the V crack system (thin gear to start)to an enjoyable top with some very interesting holds and good gear.

Nice thin crack. Start about 12m uphill from Wire Brush and Dettol. Up crack to 2 ring lower-off.

Learn to offwidth and remove ugly excess skin! 8m further right around the arete is an offwidth.

Stick clip BR at 4m and up past another bolt to hand crack and gear to lower-off.

The hand and fist crack 1m right of Tourniquet. Step in from right. Good stuff, eats cams. Lower-off on left as for Tourniquet

Just like goodbyes, not all that pleasant. Shallow flaring double crack system into a chimney top. FA used a #7 as first piece, a #6 would go one move higher. Tree anchor.

Funky groove and neat face climbing. Up crack 8 m R of Buffalo Bum to ledge, step R 1.5m and up wall to jugs then left to crack

Wide crack 8m right of Buffalo Bum

Past 2 RBs, then nice through bulge at top to loweroffs. Nuts and cams for top section; you can also get some gear in the break before the 2nd bolt.

Start 10m R of Boffin in a Coffin. Up to roof and up. Wide.

Up the thin crack feature on small gear, avoid bridging across to face on left. Once ledge is gained move left into squeeze chimney with more small gear in the back. Move up and right back into crack on face and top out. Walk off or abseil off tree.

The last crack on the wall, a few metres further from Tweedlebum, thin cracks up bulge to ledge and then mantle (crux). Keep the ledgefall potential in mind. (If you have to remove the plant from the top crack you're not strong enough.)

The seeping right facing corner around the corner from ER. Twin cracks to Storm water drain.

Start: A deep crack approximately 1m left of "Dorothy May" The first 4m direct looks 20 I reckon, probably starts on the jugs of Reno

Crack R of Hobbit Nose with a blank section up high. Take cams

Flared crack left of Hobbit Nose, can be done entirely on hexes and a few wires, classic! Easier with the tree to start.

Thin crack at the base of the gully on the left wall as you walk down, One hard move then up crack and nose on right to easy top out, good gear all the way (you can put a high cam in the protect the start). Double U anchor, best to abseil to avoid rope wear.

Start about 1m L of Sandstorm by a little layback. Either hard straight up on crimps or (much nicer and easier) up left a move then right following pockets up to break (hand and fist sized cams). Up crack and tenuous slab finish straight above to rings well back. Good gear after start

Start on ramp as for Rainman but veer right using pocket, hard move to break (hand and fist sized cams). Hard move left into crack and break then up easily.

Climb true direct to the anchors of pyromaniac, through centre of bolts on each side via gaston pocket and flaring vertical seam.

Start: Marked. On right hand edge of bulging buttress left of P. A hard start to a good fist sized cam in break, then continue up the arete, staying right of AB. Next break is big so clip one of AB's bolts and finish on AB anchor. Maybe 16V2?

Start: Starts at the crack 0.5m left of 'Andrew's Bulge'.

Start: 0.5m left of GT, Seam (wires)and thread

Up crack 1.5m left of ST, then up of blunt arete.

Corner crack left of ZT.

Bouldery start then easy.

1m left of TaB.

The grovelly dirty chimney.

Corner crack just left of ALH.

On the right-facing wall just left of In Depth corner. Directly up middle of this little wall, shares anchors with Python. Not exactly a sport route when there is one carrot 4m up . Really runout easy to deck. Dare Devil sports climb.

On the left side of the front of the boulder facing the main crag.

Mantle, then up. No pro.

Start as for Tilba Tilba. Traverse right to 2nd corner above the finish of Monkey Bars, then up. No pro.

Boldly boulder out of the cave and up into horizontal seam to good gear. Continue along and up the 2 horizontal runnels to the next break and onwards to anchors of Death of a Xanthorrhoea.

Just left of cave for GW. Over bulge and up big crack

Start as for Grotto Crack, past first bolt to horizontal break. Hand traverse R to ring bolt and up flake as for End of the Century. Cams and bolts.

A great beginner trad lead with plenty of bomber gear and good stances for placing. You can even practice your offwidth chicken arm and leg jamming at half height.

The crack located just to the left of Buzz Boys Beat.

Shares anchors with Buzz Boys Beat. If you're tall enough you can reach them from the ledge.

Wide roof crack mini route that requires nearly zero off-widthing!

Can be done either as a trad route (protect with 1-2 size 6s) or as a high ball boulder.

ABout 6m left of Screaming Pretty at the base of the descent. Thin corner and roof with fiddly but bomber gear. funky topout. Seeps a bit but ok (there's a rock to stand on and keep your boots dry if the ledge is wet). a long nut key is very useful for placing gear off the ledge.

Shire trad classic. About 45m L of the Main Wall in a R-facing corner starting on a ledge 3m up (there are rungs 15m left below Funk Little Corner). Up past break to balance slab into corner and good gear, one hard move. Take some finger sized nuts and shallow cams, and a Green camalot for the final move.

Short crack right of MMC, through rooflet and follow crack up to a mantle with single u bolt lower off next to old carrot.

Undercut start then hand traverse right along break then up easy crack. Unknown history. Single U bolt next to manky carrot over the lip.

Left facing corner, single U bolt in corner over the lip. History unknown.

Super juggy arête pillar thing on left side of cave. Dirty top out. History unknown.

A short roof crack brings you to a boulder problem sequence to get established in the bottomless corner. Continue up corner with a glorious mantle finish.

Crux sequence required a cutloose tricep dip for the FA. Keen to hear what people come up with to solve the problem.

The crack has been thoroughly cleaned, you can setup a top rope/rap off a tree above a big boulder at the top if you use a long sling. Will consider adding anchors if it sees any traffic, jump on it and tell me what you think!

The destination climb. Offwidth crack through roof and up. Possibly inverted beta would work best? Needs big gear #3-#5, ideally 2 #4's. Short but burly. Sandy.

FA: Heel Toe Tom, Dyno Jake and Chickenwing Rohan.

Big obvious chimney with offwidth characteristics. Chickenwings are definitely involved. stay out towards the edge. originally soloed. no gear. a boulder?

Starts on far right of this wall at easy crack. At top of blocky crack go up a crack on the arête above. Traverse around or climb over boulder to tree

Wide right facing corner crack. A highball boulder problem or bring some big cams.

Classy easy route. Just left of the tree and right of the giant u-bolts. Either finish before the top and use the anchors for The Chimney or continue to the top and belay off the big block.

On the far right side of this slab, hidden behind the tree. Fun juggy climbing up thin rock ridge. Not much protection.

Big wide rounded crack splitting right side of main wall. Clip the 3 bolts on A1 but stay left up the wide crack to top-out. Walk off.

The splitter roof crack 1.5m right of Burning Shells.

Finish at Burning Shells anchors.

Bouldery!