Victoria Guide

Summary:

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Sazonalidade

Escalada trad, Boulder e outros estilos

Lat / Long: -36.648855, 145.526126

Summary:

Escalada trad, Boulder e outros estilos

Lat / Long: -35.866651, 142.427950

descrição

Mt Cole

Summary:

Mostly Escalada trad

Lat / Long: -36.756550, 141.831000

sumário

The most loved and known, easily accessible quality crag in the land.

Heading towards Arapiles for some legendary climbing and starting to see it clearly for the first time, you will not have been alone if you feel a little disappointed. For taken from a distance Arapiles looks like a pile of choss.

It is the closer inspection that yields a glimpse of the true magic of Arapiles. For this is when Arapiles reveals itself. The beautiful rich golden and gray sandstone, hard and solid. The labyrinth of small gullies and hidden faces, the technical and varied climbing.

Added to this is that the true heart of Australian climbing resides at Arapiles and in particular the campground we call The Pines.

One of the greatest qualities Arapiles has, is its appeal to climbers of all abilities. It must be one of the few crags in the world which offers incredible quality routes at all grades.

The rock quality is such that even the easiest routes involve good rock and beautifully formed holds, a rarity at most crags. In the 'Experienced' range (approx grades 19-24) Arapiles is particularly blessed. It is only from grade 25 upwards that bolts start to kick in. Again the routes that are 25+ are incredibly good.

Climbing at Arapiles is a mixture of superb rock and technical moves on often steep and spectacular ground. Arapiles is the ideal place to become a more proficient trad climber. Arapiles is also very accessible, there are over 2000 routes all within easy walking distance.

One of the greatest things about Arapiles, which draw so many people to it apart from climbing, is the social scene. At popular times of the year the Pines campground can be very crowded, which some people may not like, but it is a good thing, because the atmosphere it creates is very social and friendly. You can turn up without a climbing partner, and be almost guaranteed to meet someone to climb with. It is great for meeting fantastic people from all over the globe.

There is so much more to say on this crag, Australia's premier crag, but that waits for you to discover it.

Emergency Locations : A large number of Arapiles locations are registered with Emergency services and have been entered in TheCrag. If you need Emergency Services, dial 000 (triple-zero). You will first be asked "Police, Fire or Ambulance?". After responding you will be connected to the required service. The next question will ask for your location. Give the Emergency Location listed in TheCrag for your cliff. This is the minimum information Emergency Services require to get going. Then you can give more details of the accident, climb etc.

questões de acesso

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

acesso

300km west of Melbourne.

Driving is your best bet. Public Transport is available- catch the train to Ballarat, bus to Horsham. From Horsham it is easy to hitch a lift or take a feeder bus that runs daily out to Arapiles.

onde ficar

The Pines Campground is situated at the base of Arapiles, with water and toilets. Suitable for long and short term camping. Campsites must be booked online at http://www.parkstay.vic.gov.au/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park or phone 13 1963.

More luxurious accommodation can be found in Natimuk i.e. Backpackers or Bed and Breakfast establishments. There is a campground at Lake Natimuk which has showers. Showers are also available at the Natimuk Pub for $5.

ética

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Summary:

Escalada trad, Boulder e outros estilos

Lat / Long: -37.265302, 142.376338

sumário

Some of the best climbing in Australia in a beautiful environment, often in great solitude.

descrição

For many climbers, memories of the Grampians / Gariwerd are like memories of paradise. The warm winter sun, breathtaking sunsets lighting up Taipan Wall and sore tips from hard days. The Grampians are beautiful and the climbing reflects this. The solitude, routes that offer variety and adventure, these are the hallmarks of the Grampians.

The Grampians offer some of the most spectacular and high quality climbing in Australia. The beautiful thing about the Grampians is that it offers so much choice, there is plenty of good easier climbing in fantastic locations, and also probably the best hard routes in the land. When you talk about climbing in the Grampians you are referring to a multitude of crags and thousands of routes. There are a core of popular crags regularly visited, then there are a host of areas that are lucky to be visited more than once a year. The most popular crags are the ones with a combination of good access and a large amount of top routes. Among the most popular areas are 'Mt Stapylton', 'The Ampitheatre', 'Mt Rosea' (loads of quality multipitch routes) and 'Bundaleer' (an intimidating summer crag). Apart from this there is a plethora of marginally less important crags, all of which offer fantastic climbing.

Access issues since 2019 has resulted in an upheaval of climbing in the region, along with confusion about which crags are open, which crags Parks Vic wish to close and why. Please read the Ethic section, and the Access notes for each crag.

Like Arapiles the trad climbing is very good, and generally the gear is exceptionally solid, there is often the occasional bolt. The harder routes to tend to be mainly on bolts. While you are here it is essential to check out Taipan Wall, unquestionably the best piece of rock in the land.

Climbing in the Grampians is generally less accessible than Arapiles, you will need to have a partner (there is no meeting someone here, unless you are lucky) and a car to get around in. The one benefit of being less accessible is that the Grampians is more of a wilderness experience. Bouldering has recently exploded in the Grampians, and there are loads of great problems to be found, including some of the hardest in the world. Bouldering is a good option if you are here in winter. All up the Grampians is a wonderful place, deserving of a decent stay. You will love it!

questões de acesso

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

acesso

235km west of Melbourne. Driving is best. You can catch a train to Ballarat, then bus to Halls Gap. The only problem is that once you are there there is no way to get around unless you hire a car, or know someone that has one.

onde ficar

There are official campgrounds throughout the Grampians. Most do have fees, that can be quite expensive. Free bush camping is accepted (until 2024) and well practiced in designated areas - but don't light fires anywhere outside of an official metal fire ring. It is illegal to camp and light fires in caves.

Also a range of accommodation (cabins, B&B, backpackers, motels, etc) in Halls Gap and the other villages around the National Park.

If you are wishing to camp, for further information or to book, go to http://www.parkstay.vic.gov.au/

ética

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.
Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.
Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.
Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.
Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.
Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.
Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.
Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.
Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.
Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.
Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

história

Modern climbing using ropes began in the Grampians around 1910. Read a detailed Grampians climbing chronology here: https://savegrampiansclimbing.org/grampians-climbing-chronology/

Geological history can be found here: http://earthresources.efirst.com.au/product.asp?pID=514&cID=39

Summary:

Escalada trad, Escalada em rocha e outros estilos

Lat / Long: -35.986766, 144.207527

sumário

The northern most climbing in Victoria. Too hot in summer. This crag is best in winter when everywhere else in Victoria is too wet.

descrição

Large granite monolith near Pyramid Hill on the Tragowel Plains. The rock is large grained and very coarse and is of variable quality. There are some quality routes, but beauty may be in the eye of the beholder.

questões de acesso

This area is in a nature reserve and contains some rare and endangered flora and fauna. It may look pretty scrappy, but please take care and look after this area if you visit.

acesso

From Melbourne/south, head to Pyramid Hill and then drive north on the Pyramid Hill - Leitchville Rd until you see the Major Mitchell Trail sign to Mt Hope. Turn left and drive 1.5 km on the dirt. Turn left at the first opportunity to get to the Picnic Ground, or drive another 500 m to the next left to reach Suicide Rock car park

onde ficar

You can camp at Mt Hope, but it's pretty rough - no water or toilets. In summer the flies will carry you away during the day and the mosquitoes will take over after dark.

ética

Trad as well as bolted sport routes. There is a mix of carrots and fixed hangers. Glue in bolts without fixed hangers are preferred as they reduce the visibility of fixed hardware.

Summary:

Boulder, Escalada em rocha e outros estilos

Lat / Long: -36.596903, 143.704930

descrição

Mount Kooyoora is located in Kooyoora State Park in the Goldfields Region of Victoria.

questões de acesso

Located in Kooyoora State Park.

onde ficar

Camping is available at various sites throughout Kooyoora State Park.

Summary:

Escalada trad, Boulder e Escalada em rocha

Lat / Long: -37.270722, 143.229378

descrição

Mount Cole is located in Mount Cole State Park, in the Goldfields Region of Victoria.

questões de acesso

Located in Mount Cole State Park.

acesso

Mount Cole State Park is a one hour drive west of Ballarat in Victoria.

Summary:

Escalada trad, Escalada em rocha e outros estilos

Lat / Long: -36.672229, 144.997060

Summary:

Escalada trad, Boulder e outros estilos

Lat / Long: -36.829456, 145.432135

sumário

Granite crack climbing and bouldering close to Melbourne, no crowds, great views, short walk to access, easy to top rope.

descrição

Granite crag just over an hour from Melbourne, situated in a Flora reserve which runs along the highway. Good views north, nice rock and smattering of lines in the 17-24 grade. Short cliffline easy to toprope, highest route is only 25m, and features some interesting cracks on good qaulity granite that is kind on the paws; a good spot for beginners to granite cracks. Climbs are generally crack affairs, there is one bolted line at time of writing, but potential for more on some faces. Makes a good little daytrip from Melbourne if you are sick of the local stuff and don't want to drive to Gramps or Araps. A nice trip is to do Big Hill and nearby Tennerife. Its a lovely location with great views north, lots of wildlife and a few climbs that stay in the shade through summer.

questões de acesso

The crag itself is in a flora reserve and there is only a thin strip of land that extends to the road. Do not cross the horse stud to access the crag there are new owners with expensive horses and they are touchy about this.

There have been issues previously with 4wd vehicles driving onto the reserve and property and shooting. Kangaroos and wallabies have been shot and left to die with some making down to the property. Because of this, the gate has now been locked so that vehicles can't get on. If climbers see anything like this happening or untoward, please contact the ACAV and contact can be made with the property owner and police to report them, it would be much appreciated.

NOTE: There have been a huge increase in the amount of snakes that have been seen – lots of browns. So take care.

Falcons nest there in September through to about November so don't access then.

There are some endangered wildflowers that grow amongst the crag boulders and cliffs (some can be found on the 'sandpaper terrace', as well as numerous wombats, echidnas and falcons, so be aware.

https://strathbogierangesnatureview.files.wordpress.com/2019/01/big-hill-cons-reserve-cadastral-new.jpeg?w=1000&h=

acesso

This is a roadside crag just off the Hume Highway. From Melbourne, head north on the Hume. A few minutes after the Avenel roadhouse you will see Mt Tennerife on your right, keep heading north until You see a turnoff for Berry Lane. Turn right, then left onto the dirt road (Faithfull Rd) just off the highway. Before the top of the crest you will see a gate on the right, park here, and follow the fire trail up the hill to the south. The Southern Boulders are obviously on the southern side of the ridge, and the crag is on the northern face. Climbs are described from this approach.

To get to the better boulders you need to contour around the ridge and pick out the stuff with good potential.

onde ficar

Nearby towns Avenel, Longwood, Seymour and Euroa have hotels and other accomodation.

história

In 1969, 'Trial' (6) and 'Coolu' (5) were established, as well as the other 'chimney', 'Tribulation' (14). Chris Baxter aided Dipsomania with his brother in 1970 and led the crag favourite 'Cut Throat Crack' with Keith Lockwood. In '74 those routes went free by Mike Law, who also happened to solo a second ascent of 'A smile from Julia', and soloing the FA of 'Lightstropper'. 1974 also saw visits from Nic Taylor, Reg Marron, Iain Sedgeman, Peter Watson and Andrew Bowman took most of the obvious lines. In 1975 Mike Law and Kim Carrigan returned to put of more comments from Julia. Things stayed quiet with focus moving to the bigger crag down the road at Mt Tenerife. In the late 1990's Pat McVeigh-Mcconnel and Darryl McConnel put up the nice beginner line 'Mosquito Corner', a rather difficult 10. Steve Wilson and Robin Holmes finished off the last of what was available in 2002 with 'Battle of the Bulge', the one star 'Lost for Words' and 'Gravel Rash' all on the sandpaper terrace. They also added a nice variant to the already enjoyable 'Tribulation' at 18.

In 2010 the bouldering potential of Big Hill was explored more closely, with lines on the southern boulders being developed including the imposing Shorebreak Boulder.

In 2018 with all obvious trad lines developed, Matt Brooks and others led a small resurgence and bolted a number of new routes including 'Angry White People' (10) and 'Mad Season' (14), a thoroughly bolted low angle slab. Brooks and Josef Goding also developed three new routes at the Sandpaper terrace including 'Where is Julia' (15), 'She Makes my Day' (18) and 'Last Beautiful Girl' (21).

Summary:

Escalada trad, Escalada em rocha e outros estilos

Lat / Long: -36.845580, 145.388571

sumário

A collection of large and small granite slabs and outcrops with varying quality.

questões de acesso

[From former CliffCare website]

INDIGENOUS HISTORY

Taking care of the environment covers many areas. Many of the locations we climb at have had a previous history of indigenous culture. Some of this may not even be apparent to the untrained eye. Cultural heritage sites such as artwork and caves are a little more obvious, but much exists out there that consists of unobtrusive rock markers, chippings etc.

Teneriffe has a long indigenous history and after a visit with a concerned resident/historian and two clan elders, discussions took place to ensure that any cultural activity that has occurred remains as undisturbed as possible from now on. While no formal restrictions have been put in place, the hope is for no further cairns/rock formations to be created or in turn, dismantled. Much of the climbing in the area now has a quite well marked track to access it. Should it be decided on at a later date that some kind of directional signage is necessary at minimal points, small arrows will be attached to a tree.

PLEASE: NO CONSTRUCTION OR DISMANTLING OF ANY ROCK FORMATIONS/CAIRNS AT TENERIFFE

Access via private property:

The owner of the property in the saddle area requests climbers to follow the boundary of his fence and not cross through his property.

Wildlife:

Peregrines nest on the Magic Block, locals ask that you don’t climb there from August to early December.

Access from Western End:

Due to private landowners wishing to retain some control over access, they have asked directions not to be widely publicized. Instead, you can contact the Access Officer on cliffcare@vicclimb.org.au a few days before you wish to go.

acesso

From the Hume Highway take Oak Valley Road, a dirt road heading South. A little after one kilometer you'll see Tuan Lane on your right heading steeply up (-36.841258, 145.398775). Follow this for about another kilometer where it will take you to a junction. The saddle area (climbing not permitted) is up to your right, as is Jon Day's property (see access issues regarding access via his property).

The best place to park is in front of Sparrow Slabs. Take the left fork at the junction and you will shortly see space for 3-4 cars either side of the road. The VCC spent $300 to assist widening the road for cars to prevent blocking the road for the local farmer. Please use it and keep the road clear. There is a good spot to cross the fence here using a large rock and tree.

To access all other climbs head 100m back along the road and locate the fence (caution: electric) oriented east/west going up the hill and follow it up the steep hill to saddle/ridge. Stay outside of the fenced area, this is private land. At the peak of the saddle/ridge there is a break in the fence, follow the short trail upward and then walk right around rock and up a track behind it. About 20m further, a central track heads right across the slope. This track meanders northwest for about 1.4km and all other climbs can be accessed from this track.

onde ficar

Camping is possible on top of Teneriffe. There are no facilities aside from picnic tables. Access is by foot (approx 20 min hike).

Summary:

Escalada trad e Escalada artificial

Lat / Long: -36.843209, 145.672347

Summary:

All Escalada em rocha

descrição

This quaary is a basalt intrusion into this largely granite are. The face and the scree are still unstable so be warned. The climbs tahe the cracks formed by drilling and blasting. Once the loose stuff is removed it is all relatively stable and solid. The routes are at the R end of the quarry.

acesso

From Euroa take the Merton Rd and approximately a km after Killens Hill Rd on the R you should see a outcrop on the L. Drive down the Rd towards it and on the R hand side is a gateway through which you can drive to below the quarry. Permission to climb here may be required.

história

The quarry was first visited by Glenn Tempest and Steven Griffin in 1978. Glenn later returned with Phillip Armstrong and put up the first three climbs. Glenn again returned in 78 with Jerry Maddox to add Rockys Groove and it has probably not been visited since.

Summary:

All Escalada trad

Lat / Long: -36.910206, 145.596587

descrição

See the Eastern Vic Guide for details

Summary:

All Escalada trad

Lat / Long: -36.933168, 145.581059

descrição

This crag offers a large number of Tors and boulders scattered along a hillside. All on private properties. The star of the area is however the climb Supercrack, possibly the best line in the area.

acesso

As of June 2020, climbing is not permitted.

Near the Boulder Orchard. Take Killeens Hill Rd for ~6km, until you approach the third of three houses.

The guidebook referenced grid has been removed, but was located next to the 3rd house at ~6.3km from the turnoff. In line with the 3rd house, is a crack up the hill. This is actually an offwidth. 300-400m past the house is another large tor with a L wards slash across it. This is Supercrack.

história

After several aborted expeditions by the MUMC crew, rumour of Supercracks existence filtered out andit was climbed.

Summary:

Escalada trad e Escalada em rocha

descrição

The Rockery is a large collection of granite slabs and tors near Rollingstone Wall. Potential is limited although with a bit of cleaning and some bolts???? Pleasant surroundings and easy walking in amongst the rocks adds to the place.

acesso

Follow the Hume to Euroa, turn R on the Strathbogie Rd, follow for about 14km, turn R onto Kelvin View Rd. Follow this for about 3km until it turns to gravel. Keep going to a hairpin L and instead of going round this there is a track leading straight to a gate. Park clear of the gate. This track leads to the house.

Originally access was from below but this land has been sold and the new owners are not allowing access. Access is through land owned by the Broughtons, but you need to ring them first. Contact cliffcare@viclimb.org.au Phone the VCC a few days before to get their phone number.

Summary:

Escalada trad, Escalada artificial e Escalada em rocha

Lat / Long: -36.855472, 145.639237

descrição

Roolingstone Wall is another crag situated in the Garden range. this impressive 60m face offers a number of serious free and aid climbs on mostly good rock. The place is quite popular amongst aid climbers getting their skills sorted for Buffalo. A beautiful place. Definetly worth a visit particularly during summer when the face is cool and shady. In winter it can be wet and cold.

acesso

Follow the Hume to Euroa, turn R on the Strathbogie Rd, follow for about 14km, turn R onto Kelvin View Rd. Follow this for about 3km until it turns to gravel. Keep going to a hairpin L and instead of going round this there is a track leading straight to a gate. Park clear of the gate. This track leads to the house.

Originally access was from below but this land has been sold and the new owners are not allowing access. Access is through land owned by the Broughtons, but you need to ring them first. Contact cliffcare@viclimb.org.au Phone the VCC a few days before to get their phone number.

Hide Approach Routes Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit

Summary:

All Escalada em rocha

Lat / Long: -37.064530, 145.376520

Summary:

All Escalada em rocha

sumário

Small granite outcrops on top of the hill. Main crag on summit but lots of boulder potential on the walk up.

questões de acesso

Walk up/access road is on private property so best to talk to the owner Lesley if he is around when you arrive. 30-40 min walk straight up the hill from the road or take the dirt track to drive right up to the crag, (high clearance recommended.

acesso

Walk up hill from road or drive rough track up steep road

onde ficar

Not here

Summary:

All Escalada em rocha

Summary:

Escalada em rocha e Escalada artificial

Summary:

Mostly Escalada em rocha

Lat / Long: -36.885049, 145.761491

descrição

The Strathbogie Ranges are a set of low lying mountains within the Great Dividing Range, with the highest peak, Mount Strathbogie at an elevation of 1033 metres above sea level. It is a collection of ridges dissected by streams. The rock is granite and some of the rock was created by a volcanic eruption.

Summary:

All Boulder

Lat / Long: -36.911387, 145.962246

sumário

Seldom visited collection of granite boulders on a hill in Strathbogie state forest.

descrição

Barjass hill sits within Strathbogie state forest at about 600m elevation. Crowned by the large egg boulder named "The Boob", the hill has a fair amount of granite boulders scattered across it, with the steeper side of the hill to the east hosting a larger number of bigger blocks than the gentler sloped western side. Not a great deal of moss seems to grow on the boulders during the drier parts of the year.

A decent amount of shade is provided throughout the day by light forest covering the hill. Ground cover is minimal on the western side of the hill (other than right off the road) and thickens up on the eastern side, but for the most part it's easy to walk around.

Landings are hit and miss and usually consist of sticks and old rock flakes, however there are some areas with clean landings. A pad is recommended.

Phone reception (Optus network) is good over the higher elevation parts of the hill.

questões de acesso

The hill is on state forest and general state forest rules (e.g. no fires during total fire bans, fires must be supervised, dogs are allowed but must be under control, etc.) apply. The state forest is closed to the public on Code Red Fire Danger Rating days.

acesso

From the Midland Hwy unning between Benalla and Mansfield, take Harpers Rd which becomes Barjarg Track, passing a few farms and weekenders, into the state forest, a few twists and turns and then up on the hill to the right you can see lots of obvious boulders. There is a lay-away on the left on a slope (GPS coords -36.911082, 145.960095) or you can continue a bit further up the hill for a flatter parking spot. If you drive past Harpers No. 1 Track, you've gone too far. Head straight up the hill towards the boulders.

onde ficar

There are several options to camp in the state forest, otherwise best visited as a day trip out of Benalla or Mansfield.

história

The area was chanced upon by Chockstone user Superstu in 2007. Since then, the area has received limited attention. All public documentation and information pertaining to Barjass hill may be found in a Chockstone thread. Some problems are known to have been climbed, including The Boob.

Some boulders and problems have likely been named/climbed before, please correct as required.

Summary:

All Escalada em rocha

Lat / Long: -36.313804, 146.187546

descrição

The Warby Ranges is a mountain range in Northern Victoria. The peaks are granite and the range makes up part of the Warby-Ovens National Park.

questões de acesso

Partly located in the Warby-Ovens National Park.

acesso

Warby-Ovens National Park can be accessed by car easily from Melbourne or Wangaratta.

onde ficar

There are two campgrounds in Warby-Ovens National Park.

Summary:

Escalada trad, Escalada esportiva e outros estilos

Lat / Long: -37.136154, 145.206863

descrição

Located on private land accessed by the Tallarook state forest. Granite slabs.

The crag doesn't get huge amount of love and features a lot of vegetation on some of the routes.

The area has had some problems with bogans dumping cars and other rubbish off the top of the cliffs (the access road drives right up to the top) so the landowner who controls access has asked that climbers contact him to let him know you are coming through.

The landowner wishes you to "Please ensure you contact me prior to accessing the rocks on the following number: Ron Milanovic mobile - 0413 402 744".

Summary:

All Boulder

Lat / Long: -36.719610, 144.484376

sumário

A miniscule crag with a handful of boulders. An interesting oddity if you're already near by.

descrição

Easy bouldering on nice rock. Bring brushed. Park at the boulders if you have a 4WD.

questões de acesso

None.

acesso

4WD access (or a 1.3km hike). From Huntley-Fosterville Rd. take Murphey Rd. to the large junction. Turn left onto the unnamed 4WD track and follow the ridgeline due south. Park in the hilltop clearing 15m from the obvious free standing block.

ética

Developed in line with Zoroastrian principles - good thoughts, good words, good deeds. Spread happiness through charity and respect the spiritual equality of all genders. Alternately, you could go full-moto like the other park users, embracing their Bundy & Coke nihilism and delivering yourself into the clouded cognizance of life's harsh realities.

história

Written by the victor and inevitably marginalising, to chart the history of this area would only sully its retrospective potential, excluding by presumption the most interesting possibilities of the past. Who is to say, for example, that the area was not developed by buxom female pirates in the 1400's, their FA's lost to time, uncharted by the cruel quill of the patriarchy?

Summary:

Escalada em rocha, Escalada trad e outros estilos

Lat / Long: -36.724571, 147.379308

Summary:

Escalada em rocha, Escalada trad e outros estilos

Lat / Long: -36.706165, 146.774778

sumário

Extraordinary climbing on alpine granite of all grades on everything from boulders through single pitch crags to multi day aid affairs on the North Wall of the gorge.

descrição

Mount Buffalo consists of both a large gorge and an alpine plateau.

For those staying for long periods at Mt Buffalo, there is Telstra reception throughout the majority of the national park, but limited Optus coverage found at the carpark for the Gorge and the Horn.

acesso

Varies from short to long, flat to steep walk ins or abseil approaches both short and long.

onde ficar

Paid camping is available at Lake Catani between November and April on the plateau and can be booked online (https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/mount-buffalo-national-park/where-to-stay/lake-catani-campground) or over the phone via Parks Victoria. Beware, the campground is quite expensive at $27/night per site. Of course you can also bivvy on the walls of the gorge during multi day ascents, or just for the fun of it. Remember to note your intentions in the climbers log at the Park Info shelter near Bents Lookout.

Free remote camping is available on the Plateau at Rocky Creek and Mt. McLeod via several km walks.

Free camp sites are available in State Forest in the nearby Buckland Valley as well as other nearby forests.

ética

Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes.

história

Early Aboriginal history regarding Mt Buffalo is somewhat sketchy but the Yiatmathang and Minjambuta mobs regularly trekked up to the plateau in the warmer months to harvest Bogong moths.

The first non-Aboriginal sighting was made in 1824 by the explorers Hume and Hovell. In 1853 it was climbed by botanists von Mueller and Dallachy.

In 1898, 1,166 ha were declared as a temporary national park. This was expanded by 9,356 ha in 1908 when the road to the plateau was opened.

In 1910 The Chalet was built, along with the dam wall that created Lake Catani. The first ski tows were built in 1936.

Rock climbing started in the 1930's with a few routes at The Cathedral and the Wall of China though records are almost non- existent. During the late '40s and '50s several visits were made by Melbourne University Mountaineering Club groups.

Geoff Shaw established climbs at The Cathedral in 1959 and 1961. Not much of note happened until a very young John Ewbank visited for the first time and claimed the first true ascent of The Cathedral pinnacle with Maharajah with a number of aids. He would return in 1968 to claim the first free ascent of the line as well.

*Based on the 2006 Mt Buffalo guide by Lindorff & Murray.

Summary:

All Boulder

Lat / Long: -36.853773, 146.859132

sumário

Awesome little single problem at Camp Flat, 20 minutes from Bright and right on the campsite's river.

descrição

50 (?) degree overhung wall smattered with jugs on unreasonably good quality rock (For the area anyway)

acesso

Driving into the camp (Put 'Camp Flat' in Google Maps), at the river crossing look right, and its ~100m from the crossing on the corner.

onde ficar

Bright is only 20 minutes away, but the obvious choice is any of the beautiful, free, campsites nearby the climnb

Summary:

Escalada trad, Boulder e outros estilos

Lat / Long: -36.356962, 146.690061

descrição

The area centred on Beechworth and bounded by the Hume Freeway on the northwest, the Alpine Road from Wangaratta to Myrtleford on the southwest, and the road from Albury to Myrtleford (via Yackandandah) on the east. Almost all of the rock is granite and a many of the crags are collections of boulders of varying sizes.

Summary:

Escalada esportiva, Boulder e outros estilos

Lat / Long: -36.080671, 146.902541

sumário

Easy access and close to town. Bring hangers for the routes on the back wall. The ring bolt anchors added in 2017 has made it a good option for training or a quick session.

descrição

Old quarry. Some routes can get pretty dirty but it's worth checking out if you are local.

acesso

Park at the end of Riverview Terrace and follow the track 200m to the entry to the quarry. Routes are on the the back and left walls.

ética

Anything goes here, after all it's a quarry, but please don't alter existing routes.

Summary:

Mostly Boulder

Lat / Long: -36.128093, 146.824504

sumário

A compact bouldering area on the outskirts of Wodonga.

descrição

Felltimber Creek Crag is a collection of granite boulders on the south side of the hill just west of Wodonga. It is a good place to spend an afternoon, with several excellent problems and a large number of worthwhile ones. The problems are also quite varied, from slabs to faces to rooves to cracks. There are also a small number of roped climbs - Where Bovines Fear To Tread and Pimp Daddy Superstar being the highlights.

acesso

From Melbourne, take the 1st Wodonga exit (Melbourne Rd). Turn R at the first intersection past the overpass (Moorefield Park Drive). From Sydney, take the 3rd Wodonga exit (Melrose Dr). After crossing the railway line, turn R at the roundabout onto Melbourne Rd. Then take the first L onto Moorefield Park Drive. Once you're on Moorefield Park Drive, follow this to the end (a T intersection) and turn R onto Felltimber Creek Road. Follow this down a hill and over a bridge. About 400m after you pass Ingrams Rd (on the R), there's a carpark. Follow the obvious walking track to the climbing areas (which are on the S side of the hill). The carpark is marked on the street map with an X. The walking track is marked on the satellite map in green, and access to the crags is marked in yellow dashes.

Summary:

All Escalada em rocha

Lat / Long: -37.068660, 146.097777

descrição

Mansfield is a small town with a population of approximately 4400 people in the foothills of the Victorian Alps.

acesso

Mansfield is easily accessible from all directions by car via major highways.

onde ficar

There are a variety of accommodation options in Mansfield, ranging from B&B's to luxury hotels and apartments.

Summary:

Mostly Escalada em rocha

Lat / Long: -37.021259, 147.773603

descrição

Omeo is a small town near Mount Hotham in Victoria with a population of approximately 500 people.

acesso

It can be easily accessed by car via the Great Alpine Road.

onde ficar

There is a range of accommodation available in Omeo.

Summary:

Escalada em rocha, Escalada trad e Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: -36.134901, 147.649072

descrição

Corryong is a small town in North Eastern Victoria with a population of approximately 1200 people. It lies near the upper reaches of the Murray River.

onde ficar

A range of accommodation is available in Corryong, with every level of accommodation from caravan parks to a hotel.

Summary:

Escalada em rocha, Escalada trad e Escalada artificial

Lat / Long: -37.396434, 148.263226

descrição

Buchan is a small town in the East Gippsland Region of Northern Victoria with a population of approximately 400 people.

acesso

Access to Buchan is by car via Gelantipy Road from the North, Timbara Road from the West, Bruthen-Buchan Road from the South and the Buchan Orbost Road from the South East.

onde ficar

There is a small variety of accommodation within the town.

Summary:

Mostly Escalada em rocha

Lat / Long: -37.031805, 148.315676

descrição

Wulgulmerang is a small town in North-Eastern Victoria with a population of around 260 people. The town sits at an elevation of 889 metres above sea level.

acesso

Wulgulmerang is accessible by car via the Snowy River Road.

onde ficar

There is caravan park accommodation in Wulgulmerang.

Summary:

Mostly Boulder

Lat / Long: -37.268316, 145.875114

descrição

Snobs Creek is located within Snobs Creek Wildlife Reserve in Northeast Victoria.

questões de acesso

Located in Snobs Creek Wildlife Reserve.

acesso

It is easily accessible by car via the Goulburn Valley Highway.

Summary:

All Escalada em gelo

Lat / Long: -36.740332, 147.306702

descrição

Mount Bogong is a 1986 metre high mountain located in Alpine National Park in Northeastern Victoria.

questões de acesso

Located in Alpine National Park.

onde ficar

Camping is available at various sites throughout Alpine National Park.

descrição

Mount Buller is a picturesque ski town which shares its name with the nearby Mount Buller. The town has a population of approximately 260 people.

acesso

The town of Mount Buller can be easily accessed via Mt Buller Road.

onde ficar

A range of accommodation options are available in the town of Mount Buller.

Summary:

Boulder, Escalada esportiva e outros estilos

Lat / Long: -36.752597, 147.171102

descrição

A small cliff band that is under development by a group of local climbers. When done it will offer 16 - 20 routes, 8-12m high, and 15+ boulder problems spread over three areas. Developed with a big focus on being family friendly and aiding in skill development as well as a fun local crag for arvo summer sessions.

Be sure to bring your swimmers as the Gorge has many great post-climb swimming spots

acesso

->STILL UNDER CONSTRUCTION - track is stabilised in many sections but work is not yet completed. <-

FROM INFO CENTER

Nav to Mount Beauty Info Center and turn down the road directly opposite it. With the electricity switch yard to your left, drive to the end and park near the locked gate. Walk past the locked gate and follow the service road with the creek on your right, until you see signs for the 'Gorge Walk'. Follow those signs till you cross the creek via a suspension bridge.

.

FROM BIG HILL MOUNTAIN BIKE PARK

Nav to the mountain bike park or to the "Mount Beauty Gorge Walk", park and follow the signs to the Gorge Walk till you cross the creek via a suspension bridge.

.

FROM SUSPENSION BRIDGE

On the other side of the bridge the path to the Gorge bends left. Instead once you step off the bridge, head straight ahead up a difficult 'goat track' till you reach a sign for the Crag. Follow the track, switch backing up the hill. Close to the crag you will reach another sign at a fork in the track. For the "Sunshine Wall" follow the track to the left.

Summary:

All Boulder

Lat / Long: -36.878864, 147.293609

descrição

Cute granite boulders along the Bogong High Plains Road - have a go if you're driving past

acesso

With decent visibility you should be able to see the blocks from the road

ética

Note this Bouldering area is in a National Park. Destruction of native flora (e.g. lichen) is illegal. This area is alpine and as such it is a threatened area (by climate change) as well as being an area very sensitive to human impact.

Cleaning of boulders in National Parks is illegal - tread very lighty with your impact.

Summary:

All Boulder

Lat / Long: -36.862236, 147.278119

sumário

Lovely little retaining wall below the first main carpark in Falls Creek. Lots of very short top out problems, as well as a pumpy and interesting traverse.

descrição

More retaining walls may be explored in near future. Lots of potential. Risky in winter.

questões de acesso

The routes all consist of retaining walls so not suitable for high traffic. Pissing off Parks Victoria not recommended. May result in the next Arapiles. Expect stares from mountain bikers/skiiers.

acesso

Drive south along Bogong High Plains Road entering Falls Creek. Main Retaining Wall can be found on the left side of the road just before the Gully Day Carpark.

onde ficar

Up to your budget, but the Falls Creek Country Club is nice. Spectacular views of said retaining wall.

ética

Please see statement Re: Parks Victoria. Rock is somewhat loose. Have fun.

história

Three bored climbers in the high country - what else would happen?

Summary:

Boulder, Escalada trad e outros estilos

Lat / Long: -37.696039, 144.774630

Summary:

Boulder, Escalada esportiva e outros estilos

Lat / Long: -37.870106, 145.045182

Summary:

Escalada trad, Escalada em rocha e outros estilos

Lat / Long: -37.944547, 144.414543

sumário

Typically this granite outcrop of boulders and slabs offers mostly short low angled face climbs on rough rock with small holds.

descrição

Only 352 m in height the granite peaks of the You Yangs dominate the Werribee lava plains and are clearly identifiable from Melbourne and beyond.

questões de acesso

National Park. Parks Vic website (Oct 2014) says "[...] Bookings are required for groups. Individuals are not required to book, but should check with the Park Office to enquire about the availability of sites. [...]"

acesso

You Yangs Regional Park is 55 km south-west of Melbourne and 22 km north of Geelong (Melway ref: Key map 11). Access to the park from the Geelong-Melbourne Freeway is clearly signposted via Little River or Lara.

ética

Mixed climbing with trad and some sports options, as well as bouldering. Bring hangar plates, as many climbs are equipped with carrot bolts.

Summary:

Escalada trad, Escalada esportiva e Escalada artificial

Lat / Long: -37.660207, 144.350420

sumário

Good variety of short routes close to Melbourne

descrição

A warm up walk in leads to a good mix of short to medium routes on conglomerate rock with some sport climbing from mid-grade up. Falcon's Lookout (the only open climbing area) is serviced by a generous number of belay posts which negate the need to use trees as anchor points - hopefully preventing further erosion. Bring a setup rope or similar if intending to toprope.

Choss at the top so remember to wear your helmet and call 'rock' when knocking down a shower of muddy pebbles on your belayer after topping out. Does catch the sun in the morning so pick your days.

Easy access to routes. The walk in lands you at the top of the climbs with stairs at the L end of the crag. Jump on the popular 'Big Ears' or put your gym training to the test on the world famous 'Redex Irlont Sudano'. And just remember, it's not in Werribee..

questões de acesso

State park

Parks Victoria advises that 'Falcons Lookout' is currently the only area open for climbing.

acesso

Take the Western Highway out of Melbourne. Take the first exit into Bacchus Marsh. Go into Bacchus Marsh, turn L into Grant St (just before the hill). Go straight ahead for about 1km, crossing the river and then turning R into Griffith St at the roundabout just before the railway crossing. Go about 2km then veer R into McCormack Road at the golf course. Cross the railway line then turn hard R into Ironbark Rd.

To get to 'Falcons Lookout' follow Ironbark Rd for 6km to a parking area on the R after you cross the railway again, but before you go under the railway bridge. A Parks Victoria information sign marks the beginning of the walking track. Follow track through Ironbark Gorge to Falcons Lookout (Sign posted 40 minute walk, actual time = 25 min.).

ética

Visitors are encouraged to use this area responsibly and to adopt safe practices during all climbing and aseiling activities. The use of safety equipment, including helmets, is recommended.

Please keep to the tracks, observe access agreements, remove all rubbish, and climb safely.

história

Werribee Gorge's potential for rockclimbing was noticed by Keith Lockwood in 1970. His enthusiasm for the cliff's strong architecture was tempered by access difficulties but later visits by Norm Booth revealed easier access, allowing visitors to quickly develop 'Falcons Lookout' (the Ampitheatre).

Summary:

Boulder, Escalada trad e outros estilos

Lat / Long: -37.369536, 144.597028

descrição

Mount Macedon is a small town located 64 kilometers northwest of Melbourne. Camels Hump is the highest peak of Mount Macedon. This small rocky outcrop is relatively unimpressive but is in fact the 400 million year old remnant of one of the largest volcanoes ever seen in Earth's history.

It has steep and solid rock, with a variety of pumpy sport routes, tall trad lines, and crispy boulder problems. The area in great for climbers not wanting to make a long drive to the bigger named crags. If you're climbing grades 16-20 or V2-6, there's plenty of quality here worth ticking.

Toilets - nearest public toilets are only 500m further up the road from the Camel's Hump car park on Cameron drive. Given the popularity of climbing and bouldering here, finding a spot downhill behind a boulder isn't an option anymore.

acesso

Take the Calder Hwy (M79) out of Melbourne. Get off at the Mt Macedon exit (C322) and head up the Mount. The easiest approach to the crag is to simply walk along a trail marked "Emergency Use Only", that leaves from the Camel's Hump car park, and weaves around to the base of the Omega Block area.

história

The 1st climbers apparently came to Camel Hump in the late 1950’s and it received a sprinkling of routes from the VCC and RMIT groups through the 1960’s – Romulus, Remus, Oxbow and Witch gave Victoria its first 17. Activity continued but much of it went unrecorded and Chris Baxters Central Victorian guidebook of 1974 described only 13 routes. Camels spent much of the 1970’s in the doldrums. Mike Law and friends ‘rewrote the guidebook’ during the early 80’s . Most recently attention has focused on the Back Wall and bouldering opportunities. - Chris Baxter c 1991

Summary:

Boulder, Escalada trad e outros estilos

Lat / Long: -36.998604, 144.304631

descrição

Mt Alexander is a granodiorite peak rising ~350m above the surrounding area (744m above sea level). The rock quality varies from very good, smooth and solid, to coarse and friable in places.

There are a number of sports climbs, trad climbs, and boulder problems.

questões de acesso

PLEASE READ IF IT IS YOUR FIRST TIME TO MT ALEXANDER

Most of Mt Alexander is a regional (not national) park, so while climbing is permitted general rules apply; dogs are permitted on leash, fires only in established fire places (from Parks Victoria website).

Being able to climb at Mt Alexander is a privilege and climbers need to act accordingly; especially given the increased amount of climbers frequenting the area due to Grampians closures. Please do not drop litter (e.g. fingertape) - in fact, if you can, remove any litter you see when you leave. Please keep to existing trails where you can. Do not engage in overzealous cleaning of climbs - keep it to the minimum. Don't harm any trees. Be courteous to fellow users of the park.

Toilets are available at the Leanganook campground and at the mountain bike park near the Oak Forest (close to Harcourt). Should you need to defecate please do so in accordance with established practices for wilderness behaviour (e.g. stay away from water courses, digging a hole etc).

Please see individual access notes for each area.

acesso

The mount is ~125km north of Melbourne. Approach on the Calder Freeway (M79), and take the Harcourt exit.

To reach the southern crags/boulders:

From the "town centre" drive south on the Calder Highway (C794), turn left on Farraday-Sutton Grange road and then left again on Joseph Young Drive.

To reach to northern crags/boulders:

Either follow Joseph Young Drive across the mountain, or: drive north from the "town centre" on Calder Highway (C794) to turn right on Market Street, and then left on Reservoir road. Going straight on at the left turn takes you to the Oak Forest (mountain bike park) which is the access point for some areas.

ética

Do not bolt highball problems except with agreement of the first ascentionist. In general, keep bolting to a minimum. Since 2010 there was been almost zero bolting of new routes.

Summary:

Escalada trad, Escalada em rocha e outros estilos

Lat / Long: -37.404474, 145.767259

sumário

Long (100m plus) multi-pitch climbs on fantastic sandstone slabs. Mainly trad.

descrição

Fun adventure climbing. Allow enough light for the approach and descent which can be tricky for first time visitors. The majority of climbs are east facing and sunny until around 2pm. It gets cold very quickly when the sun passes behind the range.

acesso

119km from Melbourne, 18km from Buxton.

onde ficar

Camping is permitted at several locations in the park. Possible as a day trip from Melbourne and surrounds.

Summary:

Escalada esportiva, Boulder e outros estilos

Lat / Long: -37.186350, 144.488500

sumário

Slabby granite tors. A mini version of the You Yangs but with shade.

Be aware of snakes as they're quite common throughout the reserve.

questões de acesso

Forest Reserve

acesso

Take the Calder Hwy out of Melbourne. Get off at the Kyneton exit and head into town. Turn R onto the Edgecombe-Eppalock Rd.

Drive about 6km. When the road turns to the R turn R into Ennis Rd. Follow Ennis Rd for 750m and park at the gate and information shelter.

There are two entry points into the reserve. The ‘Front Gate’ entrance is located on the north western side of the reserve, whilst the ‘Back Gate’ is located on the south eastern side of the reserve.

‘Back Gate’ access: Calder Freeway to Kyneton exit and then right at the roundabout and take C326 Heathcote - Kyneton Rd and head towards Edgecombe. Pass Verekers Lane then turn right into Hallorans Lane. Drive to the end of the road and turn left at the T junction onto Black Hill Rd (unsealed) and follow this for 1.7km to a turnaround and gate (Back Gate). Park at the gate and enter the reserve.

Back Gate approach: From the Back Gate car park follow the trail until you hit the Circuit Track and turn right. Follow the Circuit Track until you arrive at the 1st of 2 picnic benches located near eachother. The large boulder on the left is The Monolith Boulder.

Summary:

Escalada trad, Boulder e outros estilos

Lat / Long: -37.313325, 143.717582

sumário

Mt Beckworth has very fine grained granite which is friendly on the skin.

descrição

Only a short trip from Melbourne Mt Beckworth is home to some of the best granite bouldering and route climbing in the state! Definiely worth a day trip!

acesso

1 and a half hours from Melbourne, Take Sunraysia Hwy North from Ballarat, turn right at Learmonth-Sulky rd and immediately left onto Donovans Rd. At the T intersection turn left onto Addington-Creswick Rd, then right onto Learmonth-Clunes Rd. Turn left onto Coghills Creek Rd then Right onto Fentons. The road will become unsealed and look for Mountain creek road on the left which takes you in to the reserve.

onde ficar

Clunes, Ballarat or Melbourne

Summary:

Mostly Escalada trad

Lat / Long: -37.718846, 145.620465

sumário

Described by Mike Law as "possibly the worst cliff in the world, with some of the best climbs", you'll either love it or hate it.

descrição

Ben Cairn is granite outcrop situated about 1.5 hours east of Melbourne. The surrounding area is heavily forested, picturesque but is not suitable for climbing in the winter.

It's a five minute walk in from the road and contains around 40 routes protected by a mixture of bolts and trad gear.

You can belay from the tourist guard railing or set up top ropes. Most routes involve friction slabbing. The rock is very fine grained making slab moves sometimes slippery.

Update: 25 Sep, 2011. Many routes may need cleaning to be safely climbed on lead.

questões de acesso

[As at 12 March 2018 Ben Cairn Road closed both ends due to landslip. Practically impossible to access].

From Melbourne take the Maroondah Highway to Healesville. Go through town, past the bridge, turn right at Don Rd and go 9.8km to a junction. Keep driving about 8km and the road becomes dirt. You pass a sign stating "Ben Cairn 1040m". Walk 5 minutes up the foot track to gain access to the crag.

Note: Both ends of Ben Cairn Road gated in winter. https://traffic.vicroads.vic.gov.au/ for further access information.

acesso

Follow the track marked Ben Cairn from the car park.

Summary:

Escalada trad, Escalada em top rope e Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: -37.846175, 144.269958

sumário

Nice little place with easy access from Melbourne. Top-roping or trad to keep you amused for the day with a couple of short sport routes. Bring bolt plates.

descrição

There are ring bolts and fixed hangers set back from the top of the cliff, bring a static line, cordelette or similar if you intend to use them. Be aware of the limited/small gear available and the quality of rock if you're intending to lead in this area. The base of the cliff is split by three major steps and tiers all accessible by walking down from the steps at the top. Please stick to the defined tracks to prevent erosion.

questões de acesso

The site is closed from 1 August to 30 November due to the peregrine falcon breeding season.

acesso

From Anakie drive down the Ballan-Geelong rd and turn right on to Staughton Vale Rd then take a left at Mcleans hwy. After about 1.4km you will reach a car park on the left and then it is a 5 minute walk along the track to the face. The bottom of the crag can be reached by abseil or along a well-formed track on the RHS facing out. Part way down you reach the bottom of the first tier. Continuing a little further brings one to the bottom of an easy angled wall. Top ropes can be arranged from the base of the highest tier using rocks and a large tree. A number of easy routes suitable for groups can be negotiated. Continuing on a few more metres brings one to the base of the main face.

Summary:

All Boulder

Lat / Long: -37.235105, 144.639924

descrição

Victorian granite bouldering. Easy access with lots of problems scattered across the ridge lines. Only a small selection of problems highlighted here. All lines almost certainly not first ascents with local crew sending problems here for years.

questões de acesso

Easy drive in access via Ridge Rd. Watch out for 4x4 and motorbikes hammering around.

Summary:

All Boulder

Lat / Long: -37.183635, 144.711152

sumário

Roadside bouldering an hour from Melbourne and 8 min from Cobaw.

descrição

A small area with a number of nice boulder problems on good quality granite. No walk ins, proximity to Cobaw boulders and a short drive home make it appealing.

acesso

From Melbourne take the Tullamarine Fwy/Sunbury Rd towards Lancefeild Rd. Turn right onto Lancefeild road, continuing through Lancefeild on the Lancefeild Tooborac Rd. About 10 minutes past Lancefeild turn left onto Malones Rd. The crags are both off Malones Rd.

Summary:

Mostly Boulder

Lat / Long: -37.947459, 145.269295

sumário

Scattered granite boulders through extensive bushland east of Melbourne.

descrição

Lysterfield has an extensive network of paths, tracks and MTB trails. The bouldering is on granite rock. The rock tends to be sharp, prickly, and generally unkind on the skin, particularly for beginners. Expect ripped hands.

acesso

PARKING: Lysterfield aneurism bike carpark 329 Hallam North Road Lysterfield South VIC 3156.

From this car park, follow Valley View Track and this will lead you to Rock Gardens boulders (15min), The Quarry (20min) and Trig Point (25min). Further access details can be found on each area's page.

ética

Lysterfield Park is a BOULDERING ONLY area. Please refrain from bolting any routes. All longer routes and highballs can be top-roped without fixed anchors. This park is also shared among bike riders, walkers, and other user groups. Please show respect by giving way to bike riders and keeping your items out of their way.

Keep to designated tracks. All plants, animals, other natural features, and cultural sites are protected and must NOT be disturbed or removed. There is no rubbish collection inside the park, please take all rubbish home with you for recycling and disposal, even if it may not be yours.

No dogs or pets are permitted in the park. Feeding wildlife is bad for their health. It is an offence to feed or leave food where it is accessible to wildlife. Penalties apply. Loud noise can disturb wildlife. Please respect the local wildlife and keep noise to a minimum.

história

Bouldering at Lysterfield predates the 2000's but there has been little documented. All additions to thecrag may, or may not be accurate. Please update names and FA details where known.

Summary:

Mostly Boulder

Lat / Long: -37.706866, 144.502948

sumário

Bouldering and top roping in a convenient location. Ease of access and ever-present shade make it a perfect summer crag.

descrição

Basalt face climbing on sloping edges, crimps and cool pockets; there's something for everyone here. The area tends toward tiny lowballs and scary highballs, with little in the middle. The main cliff is easily top roped though, so take pads or a rope, pending on preference and courage.

questões de acesso

None as yet. The crag is in a state park, but very close to houses. Keep the noise down and park well off the road.

acesso

All areas are accessed directly from Riverview Drive. To access the westernmost areas, walk up the obvious vehicle track by the fence line. The ground is mainly loose rock, and loose rock hidden by vegetation. Watch your step and expect things to move underfoot.

ética

With the city so close, one might expect the crag to be imbued with all the urgencies of modern life, and the rapid social change and moral relativism this entails. Instead, it lingers as a haven for the universalist; the moral absolutist whose boundaries linger, defying the precepts of Melbourne's category-less and ever-vaping youth.

Ethical musings aside, don't bolt and don't trash the joint.

história

Discovered by local, Brett during COVID - and then by Evan.C about 3 hours post lockdown - the two started at opposite ends and eventually met in the middle (literally). Joe Tynan assisted with heavy lifting, mainly of trash, which sadly had to be packed out en-mass in industrial bin bags from Bunnings (seriously, those things are great).

Summary:

All Boulder

sumário

Coopers comprises of a number of natural Basalt edges with extremely easy access.

descrição

The area comprises of a numerous vertical walls and aretes split by cracks and offers a range of boulder problems on clean pocketed Basalt,

The walls all appear to be on public land.

Grades are only approximates. They are a combination of old notes, memory and recent repeats as I work my way along the whole crag again.

questões de acesso

None as yet. Please don't make me regret making this spot public.

Coopers primarily consists of easier problems, but doesn’t make it is an ideal spot for beginners. Bouldering here isn’t the same as bouldering indoors!

Many of the landings are rough and sloping. The top outs are not always obvious. The problems are still shedding holds or require you to know how to pull correctly on loose rock.

Be mindful that Coopers is in one of the few remaining wildlife corridors in the area as Melbourne continues to spread outwards. As a result you will see many Kangaroos and other wildlife including Echidna’s. So leave your dog at home! Avoid trampling the native vegetation; though feel free to bring gardening gloves and remove weeds.

Keep the area clean! Take away rubbish even if not yours. Brush chalk off the holds and if you need to use tick marks, wash them off before you move on to the next problem.

Respect the location. If you can I may consider making some of my other local areas public.

acesso

Given what is happening with access due to PV's blindside in the Grampians (plus Arapiles and my sources mention PV have their sights on Camel's and Mt Alexander), I am not publishing the location at this time.

Unfortunately I started adding this area prior to the Grampians access issues and now want to see how that pans out first.

história

Martin Lama found this area in 2006 and developed the Main Sector around that time. After a 10 year break, he came back and developed the Northern most sector. Like most areas around Melbourne, it may have been discovered previously.

Summary:

All Boulder

Lat / Long: -38.150904, 144.307818

sumário

In Buckley Falls, there is only one good boulder, but this boulder does hold a number of worthwhile lines. Classics on the boulder include Bulbasaur V5, Direct Proof V6, and Dorsiflexion V7.

acesso

From the Buckley Falls Lookout on Buckley Falls Road, walk right about 50m and then go down a big set of stairs. At the bottom, turn left and follow an overgrown, rocky track for about 100m. This track will take you directly to the main boulder.

ética

Be as low impact as possible - carry out all rubbish, brush off any tick marks, and avoid damaging vegetation where possible.

história

Climbing in Buckley Falls has occurred a handful of times in the past, but more serious development of the area begun in March 2023.

Summary:

Mostly Boulder

Lat / Long: -38.352911, 145.009573

sumário

PLEASE BE AWARE THAT THE ROUTES AND BOULDER PROBLEMS DESCRIBED AROUND THE MORNINGTON PENINSULA ARE OFTEN ON LESS THAN PERFECT ROCK WITH QUESTIONABLE LANDINGS AT TIMES. IT IS NOT A WELL ESTABLISHED CLIMBING AREA. TREAD GENTLY, CAREFULLY AND MINDFUL OF WHERE YOU ARE. IF IN DOUBT DON'T DO IT. HAVING SAID ALL THAT IT IS A BEAUTIFUL PLACE JUST TO BE. Far from world class but for the super keen or just plain desperate there are a few pockets of climbable rock dotted around The Peninsula. One thing's for certain. Queues won't be a problem!

descrição

Although most of the "rock" of the Mornington Peninsula could be removed with a child's beach bucket and spade, years of dedicated (desperate) searching have revealed a few boulders and short edges that will (usually) support bodyweight. There are even a few gear placements that wouldn't explode if a moth flew by. Seriously, there is some easy, and a few bits of not so easy, if cautious fun to be had around the coastline and hills of Mornington Peninsula. Just bring your imagination.

questões de acesso

All documented areas have free access.

ética

NO BOLTS. TO PRESERVE WHAT LITTLE AVAILABLE ADVENTURE WE HAVE DOWN HERE, PLEASE LEAVE DRILLS AT HOME.

história

A few salty pegs indicate that others have passed by some of these locations but other than Bushranger Bay nothing has been previously documented in a way that provides any information widely available. The old VCC Eastern District guide vaguely mentions a couple of routes near Elephant Rock at Bushranger Bay but locating the routes from the descriptions is near impossible. After migrating from the UK in 2007 Karl Bromelow started his desperate search for climbable rock close to his home in Rye. Having come from the heart of British gritstone and limestone climbing, his newfound distance from recognised rock climbing was quite a shock to the system. Realising that a change of attitude, as to what defined climbable rock was necessary, he set about exploring and documenting everything that was above knee height and that could poentially hold bodyweight, if you think light thoughts. The mission was, and continues to be, a quest for little adventures in an unlikely location. Karl's son Kai Seth Robertson and the überstrong Andrew Johnson were employed to uncover and send anything too hard for the ageing bumbly to drag himself up. A little later Fraser Gust engaged their formidable creativity and opened some equally unlikely possibilities along the coastline of the town of Mornington itself. A few others have since been foolish enough to toy with the esoteric pleasures of Peninsula climbing and contributed their own lines to this anomaly in the world of ascent.

Summary:

All Escalada trad

Lat / Long: -38.510077, 145.233676

sumário

A variety of rock and areas approximately an hour and half drive from Melbourne.

descrição

A large island on the eastern side of Western Post Bay with a variety of crags with Cape Woolami being the biggest.

acesso

Take the M1 Monash Freeway out of Melbourne to the east then the then onto the M420 South Gippsland Freeway all the way to Anderson where it becomes the B420 to San Remo and over the bridge onto the Island and Cowes.

onde ficar

Plenty of caravan parks, BnBs and Hotels to pick from.

ética

Trad, mixed and bouldering all exist.

sumário

PAGE UNDER CONSTRUCTION

Local bluestone and buildering climbs.

Summary:

Escalada trad, Escalada em rocha e outros estilos

Lat / Long: -37.681453, 144.046638

Summary:

Escalada esportiva e Escalada em rocha

Lat / Long: -37.831552, 144.123824

Summary:

Mostly Escalada em rocha

Lat / Long: -37.913765, 145.749825

descrição

Seven Acre Rock resides deep within the Yarra State Forest about an hour and a half east of Melbourne. There are a limited number of routes, most involve friction slabbing and runouts on bolts. Bouldering problems can be found on the hillside.

questões de acesso

To get to Seven Acre Rock from Yarra Junction take the C425 and head towards Powelltown for 14.8kms. Turn right at "Learmonth Creek Road" (unsealed) for 8.5 - 9kms then turn left onto Bunyip Road at a T intersection. (Do turn at either of the two preceding lefts). You come to a picnic area with a marked foot track leading off on the left.

sumário

A variety of bolders and granite tors, from knee high to two story house sized, unloved and leaf littered on the western slopes immediately below Egg Rock fire tower.

descrição

From bald and bold to eminently trad protectable cracks. Almost buried beneath a generation of fallen branches and leaf mould.

acesso

Follow Egg Rock track then plunge over the western slopes.

onde ficar

Home maybe 😉

ética

Leave your drills at home please.

história

Ancient.

Summary:

Escalada esportiva, Escalada em rocha e Travessia

Lat / Long: -37.468798, 144.499500

descrição

30/11/2020 A recent rockfall event recently removed the top of the crag and filled the path below with debris. Moisture now permeating right through the slate leaving it unstable.

DO NOT CLIMB HERE

DO NOT TRUST ANY OF THE BOLTS!

DO NOT ENTER CAVE AT TOP OF CRAG, LOOSE BLOCKS IN VICINITY

Summary:

Mostly Escalada trad

Lat / Long: -37.884367, 145.597180

sumário

A house size boulder with a couple of extra leaning blocks close to Gembrook.

descrição

The main block has a number of routes, scant protection but multiple new anchors on top for rigging TRs or abseils. The rock is good quality granite with several intruding dykes providing welcome holds. There's more moss than anything else, and you're right on the walking track, but it might provide a few hours entertainment.

questões de acesso

Free access

acesso

Easy approach from the picnic area car park a short walk down the waterfall track.

história

Seemingly developed primarily by Danny, Dave, Ken, Joe and Mike Adshead in the 90s. More problems and variants than those listed have been done.

Summary:

All Boulder

Lat / Long: -37.701759, 144.580087

sumário

Plenty of broken glass and bogans on a warm summer evening

descrição

The "cliff face" is probably only 6m tall at it's peak. Some of the rock is friable, some is ok...

questões de acesso

Watch out for broken glass and snakes

acesso

Exit the Western Highway turning L into Coburns Rd. Turn L at the first traffic lights (Richard Rd) and follow to T intersection with Station Rt. Tun R into Station Rd and the L into Fraser St (2nd left). Continue along throuh sweeping right hand turn and park opposite Mcdonald St. Look L and enjoy your climbing.

Summary:

Escalada em rocha, Escalada esportiva e outros estilos

Lat / Long: -37.885238, 146.355792

sumário

Mt Erica Rocks provides a vast number of high quality granite boulders with very high frictional properties The boulders are situated amongst scenic alpine forest.

descrição

Most of the routes are carrot bolted, so you could get away with a sport climbers rack, though there are a few trad cracks to climb. Mostly the routes are not that tall and most are quite hard to get up.

questões de acesso

To gain access from Melbourne drive to Moe in the north-east of the state via the Princess Hwy, and take the road to the locality of Erica. About 10kms afterwards, turn left to the signposted Mt Erica, and drive on up. Take the walking track from the car park for about 30 minutes to the boulder field.

acesso

Most of the climbs are located around the Mushroom Rocks area. About 30 minutes walk or 1.7km from the carpark there is a small campsite on the left, marked with a "Fuel Stove Area - Campfires Not Permitted" sign. Poet Rock is 15m up the path, on the right.

Summary:

Escalada trad, Escalada esportiva e outros estilos

Lat / Long: -37.279742, 144.242380

Summary:

All Boulder

Summary:

Boulder e Escalada em rocha

Lat / Long: -38.538294, 143.959938

Summary:

Escalada trad e Boulder

Lat / Long: -37.965402, 145.633783

sumário

small boulder outcrop located at four brothers lookout.

descrição

various sized boulders with few routes. main climbs are on largest rock under half-dead tree. lots more potential if someone were to spend some time cleaning the moss and dirt. solid anchor on top for possible abseil or TR.

questões de acesso

15 min walk due to road closed for cars.

acesso

park on Burgees road and walk the remaining distance to the lookout. 10-15 min walk from the car park.

Summary:

All Escalada em rocha

Lat / Long: -37.809674, 143.918180

Summary:

All Boulder

Lat / Long: -36.757774, 144.289817

sumário

Bluestone wall under the train bridge. Popular for long traverses on small holds

descrição

Bluestone traversing at it's finest, easy slab to the far left and one side of the path is harder than the other. Slippery feet on both sides so bring some shoes. You can climb here when it's raining and the S side of the wall can get some sun on it

acesso

Situated where McIvor road starts, near Abbott street.

Summary:

Mostly Boulder

descrição

Not in the Black Hill reserve but very close by in Kyneton. Before you get out to the granite, grab some lunch and warm up on the bluestone bridge. Drive down to the Campaspe river walk and traverse your way around the river. Don't come in winter which is between March and October.

acesso

Drive towards the train station and turn left before the bridge crossing. Drive down and around to the right before parking at the start of the path. If you have time, this track leads another few km's through the botanic gardens and down to piper street.

Summary:

Escalada esportiva e Boulder

Lat / Long: -38.162041, 144.343643

descrição

If you climb at The ROCK you can use the generic routes below to keep your training logbook up to date.

acesso

Rear 403 (River End) Pakington St Newtown Geelong

história

Opened in September 2001, The Rock Adventure Centre has been the home of rock climbing in Geelong. Holding annual competitions and community events. With experienced staff and setters, The Rock is the place to train, catch up with friends and just hang out.

descrição

https://www.clipnclimbberwick.com.au/

39-51 Intrepid Street, Berwick, Vic. 3806

descrição

Details: https://industryboulders.com.au/

acesso

39/8 Lewalan Street, Grovedale, 3216

Only 1.4kms away from Marshall train station and easily accessible via bus.

The facility also has bike racks for those of you that like to ride!

Summary:

All Escalada em rocha

Lat / Long: -37.649841, 145.101979

sumário

A quarried cliff not climbed on for many years.

descrição

A small cliff near the Plenty river. Similar volcanic rock as in the road cutting near by. Short climbs(<10m).

The parcel of land that the quarry is on, is now coming back into public land hands. Parks Victoria will be acquiring this land and is in the process of doing so. They are supportive of allowing climbing here once acquired, so don't jeopardize access by sneaking in now!

questões de acesso

[from previous CliffCare website]

History of Plenty Gorge

Climbing in quarry/historical climbing area still currently banned. Please do not climb here. This could risk potential access.

Plenty Gorge is an old basalt/bluestone quarry that has approx 18 routes of about 8 metres or so. From all accounts it was quite a good crag albeit small with the added bonus of it being close to Melbourne. The quarry was on private land and eventually, climbing was banned there by the private landowner. Anecdotally, it was banned due to incidences of climbers not respecting some of the access details to get to the climbing site.

#*Plenty Gorge Park currently has very limited climbing within the park itself. What is there is very unstable and unsuitable for anyone other than experienced climbers and quality of routes ie worthwhile, is debatable. Not suitable for groups.

The parcel of land that the quarry is on, is now coming back into public land hands. Parks Victoria will be acquiring this land and is in the process of doing so. A fortuitous meeting with a ranger in April 2014, alerted a couple of climbers who were in the park itself, not the banned area)of the intended acquisition and drafting of a master plan document. This information was then passed onto CliffCare and we have been involved in this from then on by providing information to the consultants and discussions with PV staff. Feedback was supplied for the initial community consult. Fast forward to present day December 2017, and it is encouraging to see that potential for climbing has been included in the plan. The plan has been put together before the acquisition has occurred so once this happens, we can engage in more solid discussions about the site.

Between the 19 November and 15th January, they are requesting feedback on the draft plan. Any positive thoughts you can provide on the potential for climbing at Plenty Gorge would be great. Documents are supplied below as well as the links for more information and where and how to provide feedback. It’s still a long way to go but all these steps will hopefully lead us to a positive outcome. I should say that my engagement with all concerned has been a positive one from my initial discussions.

história

The edge was quarried many years ago and is now quite stable. I did some climbs there back in the 90's with a fellow climber who knew the owner. We took a brush cutter and it got plenty of use. Tiger snakes were a natural hazard in summer. It was written up in The Eastern district guide.(p 209)

The area is going through a huge housing development and the cliff may be open if the property is bought out and added to the gorge park.

Summary:

All Escalada em rocha

Lat / Long: -38.444363, 144.098443

questões de acesso

Last known access to this area is closed as per local Lorne PV rangers (2004). Bolts have been chopped and rock is loose.

Summary:

Escalada em rocha e Escalada trad

Lat / Long: -38.052275, 145.681643

questões de acesso

Mount Cannibal is now closed for climbing due to ecological concerns.

Summary:

All Escalada trad

Lat / Long: -37.874902, 144.307355

descrição

The land manager has requested that people don't climb at this area at the present time. Access is being negotiated so please don't poach the few climbs as there are more, and better, climbs at the You Yangs.

Summary:

Mostly Escalada em rocha

Lat / Long: -37.330012, 144.594208

questões de acesso

This crag has been closed for years. :-(

Summary:

Mostly Escalada em rocha

Lat / Long: -38.572109, 143.948038

Summary:

Mostly Escalada em rocha

Lat / Long: -37.665254, 144.768400

descrição

CLOSED FOR CLIMBING

The rock is really cool basalt columns, but, unfortunately, is choss. So, it's not a great loss that climbing is not allowed. There are two small areas: (1) the Organ Pipes with some short trad climbs, and (2) the Tessellated Pavement with some choss-heap bouldering.

questões de acesso

CLOSED FOR CLIMBING

acesso

From the parking spot the trail is signposted to the Organ Pipes and the Tessellated Pavement.

Summary:

All Boulder

descrição

An area east of Melbourne that sits on private land so will remain hidden. Potential for great highball problems

Summary:

Escalada em rocha, Boulder e outros estilos

Lat / Long: -38.167510, 147.789891

descrição

Gippsland is a region in Eastern Victoria famous for its alpine towns, coastal villages and farming communitites.

Summary:

All Escalada em rocha

Lat / Long: -38.672559, 146.392671

descrição

Toora is a small farming town with a population of approximately 900 people located in the Gippsland Region in South Eastern Victoria.

onde ficar

Toora is easily accessible by car via the South Gippsland Highway.

Summary:

All Escalada em rocha

Lat / Long: -37.500500, 146.715879

descrição

Alpine National Park is a large national park located in the Gippsland Region of Victoria. The national park is situated in the picturesque Victorian Alps.

questões de acesso

It is a national Park.

acesso

There are many access points to enter Alpine National Park by car.

onde ficar

There is camping available throughout Alpine National Park.

Summary:

All Escalada em rocha

Lat / Long: -37.919425, 146.749978

descrição

Glenmaggie is a town with a population of approximately 400 people, located on the shores of Lake Glenmaggie in Eastern Victoria.

acesso

Glenmaggie is accessible by car via Licola Road.

Summary:

Escalada em top rope e Escalada trad

Lat / Long: -37.762646, 146.839809

sumário

Avon-Mt Hedrick Natural Features Reserve

descrição

Lots of rock in this reserve, both along the river and in various gullies and outcrops.

questões de acesso

4WD Access

acesso

Road and dirt track

onde ficar

Newry, Maffra, Briagalong (or camp!)

Summary:

Boulder e Escalada em rocha

Lat / Long: -37.456333, 148.852576

descrição

Nowa Nowa is a small town with a population of approximately 140 people in the East Gippsland Region of Victoria.

acesso

Nowa Nowa is easily accessible by car via the Princes Highway or Bruthen-Nowa Nowa Road.

descrição

Rosedale is an agricultural town with a population of approximately 1070 people in the South Gippsland Region of Victoria. Stratford is a town with a population of 1950 people on the banks of the Avon River in the East Gippsland Region of Victoria.

acesso

Both of these towns are accessible by car. Rosedale is accessed via either the Princess Highway or Rosedale-Longford Road. Stratford is accessible via either Briagolong Road or the Princess Highway.

onde ficar

Both these towns have a small range of accommodation options.

descrição

Stratford is a town with a population of 1950 people on the banks of the Avon River in the East Gippsland Region of Victoria. Bairnsdale is a town in the East Gippsland Region of Victoria with a population of approximately 11800 people.

acesso

Stratford is accessible by road via either Briagolong Road or the Princess Highway. Bairnsdale is accessible by car via either the Princess Highway, Great Alpine Road or Bairnsdale-Dargo Road.

onde ficar

Both of these towns have a small range of accommodation options, with a larger variety being found in Bairnsdale.

descrição

Bairnsdale is a town in the East Gippsland Region of Victoria with a population of approximately 11800 people. Nowa Nowa is a small town with a population of approximately 140 people in the East Gippsland Region of Victoria.

acesso

Bairnsdale is accessible by car via either the Princess Highway, Great Alpine Road or Bairnsdale-Dargo Road. Nowa Nowa is accessible by car via either the Princess Highway or Bruthen-Nowa Nowa Road.

onde ficar

Both of these towns have a small range of accommodation, with Bairnsdale having a larger variety due to its larger size.

Summary:

Boulder, Escalada em rocha e outros estilos

Lat / Long: -38.970339, 146.359161

sumário

Wilson's Promontory Marine National Park is an excellent travel destination with access to sandy beaches, clear blue water, and beautiful mountains in an idyllic setting.

descrição

Wilson's Promontory Marine National Park is located on the southern-most tip of the Australian mainland. It is a world-class conservation area with over 3,000 native animals and plants. As such, climbers should take the utmost care to prevent damage to the flora and fauna.

Most of the climbing is trad or bouldering and it is a fantastic spot to spend the weekend with your climbing buddies. There are excellent facilities at Tidal River consisting of toilets, hot showers, and a convenience store that serves coffee.

Various accommodation options exist inside the Prom ranging from basic camping to expensive lodges. Prices vary throughout the year with summer being peak season.

Some highlight activities include: going to the beach, surfing, fishing, kayaking, day and overnight hiking, and photography, and/or taking a tour of skull island.

Mobile reception quality varies throughout the region. Be mindful if going into uncharted territory and/or locations where rescue might be limited.

questões de acesso

A free permit is required to climb in this National Park. This can be obtained from the information center. If the ranger is unsure about the permit tell them it is at the far right of their counter (there are lots of casual rangers working here who are unsure of all the processes). It is a simple form to fill out solely for emergency purposes. Parks Victoria only recognizes the following locations as climbing areas at the Prom:

-Mt Bishop

-Elephant Rock

-Mt Oberon

-Little Oberon (Trackside Wall)

-Turtle Rock.

There are no access issues for bouldering at beaches.

acesso

Refer to individual crags to see access information.

onde ficar

Camping at Tidal River is the best option. There are hot showers and toilets. Campsites can be booked on the ParksVic website. Summer is peak season but clears out in off season.

https://bookings.parks.vic.gov.au/tidal-river-campground#/accom/33314

Several paid options available outside of the park. Generally expensive during holiday periods.

The closest free overnight parking is at the BP Truck Stop in Fish Creek (~20 minutes to Wilsons Prom entrance). This place can accommodate cars/vans/trucks, but locals are unlikely to be happy with people setting tents. Please arrive late and leave early if staying here to minimize problems with locals.

ética

Be friendly and respectful to other park users, and especially to any Park Rangers
Please respect camping and no-fire rules
NO BOLTS - Bolting is prohibited within Wilsons Prom
Brush ticks
Keep all off-track activities to a minimum
Chipping holds or marking the start of climbs is prohibited
'Gardening' is prohibited (removal or damage to vegetation on climbs)
Access the cliffs using existing paths and if appropriate descend by abseil rather than scrambling

UPDATED 2024: Projects will remain closed for one year from the date of upload. If not completed after one year, the route is open for others to attempt.

Summary:

Mostly Escalada trad

Lat / Long: -37.544431, 147.200318

descrição

Dargo is a small town with a population of approximately 140 people in the East Gippsland Region of Victoria.

acesso

Dargo is accessible by car via Dargo Road.

onde ficar

The Dargo River Inn and the Dargo Hotel both provide accommodation for travellers.

Summary:

Escalada trad e Boulder

Lat / Long: -38.872295, 145.977652

sumário

There is a rumour that climbing may now be banned here and apparently the walking track has now been re-aligned.

descrição

Outside of Wilsons Promontory, Cape Liptrap is the most southern point of the Australian mainland.

questões de acesso

Rumours it may be banned but not confirmed.

acesso

Take the South gippsland Highwat south and Turn off at Tarwin and head towards Tarwin Lower. From Tarwin Lower head towards Tarwin Meadows and turn R onto the TARWIN LOWER _ WARATAH RD which becomes BUFFALO - WARATAH RD and finally the CAPE LIPTRAP ROAD. Park at the Lighthouse and walk down the track that is on the steep, rocky ridge directly below. The cliff can be seen ahead in profile, facing west. The track leads down to a rocky beach on the R and from here the cliff can be easily reached. Some routes are affected by the tide.

onde ficar

Camp sites nearby.

Summary:

All Escalada em top rope

Lat / Long: -37.768005, 147.105097

sumário

Group of blocky crags below and past the lookout varying from fairly average conglomerate to nice clean rock.

descrição

No facilities or infrastructure. Not much potential for trad (due to rock quality) plenty of spots to set up a top rope. Worth bringing a static.

questões de acesso

NA

acesso

Walk up the freestone creek walking track from Blue Pools for 20-30mins and follow your nose.

onde ficar

There's a nice campground at Blue Pool 30 mins away.

ética

This crag is located in beautiful scrub, care should be taken when walking around and below. Tread lightly!

história

Unsure - may have been climbed before we found it, but has no current activity to my knowledge.

Summary:

Mostly Escalada trad

Lat / Long: -38.024027, 142.445193

Summary:

All Escalada trad

Lat / Long: -37.657259, 141.927250

sumário

Water worn rhyolite

descrição

20km west of Hamilton. About 100km south of natimuk. Well signposted. Better for swimming than climbing. But a nice place.

acesso

1min from car park.

Summary:

Mostly Escalada trad

Lat / Long: -38.376282, 141.365919

sumário

Climbing some of the highest coastal cliffs in Victoria.

descrição

Cape Bridgewater is home to some of the highest coastal cliffs in Victoria. The cape overlooks Bridgewater Bay. Cape Bridgewater was formed from a huge, ancient volcano crater.

acesso

Cape Bridgewater is accessible by car via a number of roads just off Portland-Nelson Road.

Summary:

All Escalada em top rope

Lat / Long: -38.318575, 141.408152

sumário

Amazing limestone caves

descrição

Located directly across the road from the Bridgewater Lakes. A series of about 6 large arched caves in a 15m high limestone wall.

acesso

From Portland follow the Cape Bridgewater road until about 3km before Cape Bridgewater, where the Bridgewater Lakes Rd starts. Turn right onto this and follow for 6km until the caves appear on your right directly opposite the entrance to the Bridgewater Lakes.

Summary:

All Escalada em top rope

Lat / Long: -38.335949, 141.499886

descrição

Limestone solution pipe makes awesome rap through solution pipe into top of cavern and then free rap to floor. About 4.5m of pipe and another 9m of free rap. Don't miss it if you are in the area.

acesso

From Portland follow the Cape Bridgewater Rd for approximately 10km to Telegraph Rd. There is a large Telegraph Pole at this intersection. Turn right onto Telegraph Rd and follow for 850m where the entrance to Bats Ridge Reserve is found on the right. Follow this rough track for about 600m until the parking area. From the parking area, head NE on the Fred Davis walk. After 300m, as you reach the ridge, 2 tracks come off to the right within about 20m of each other. Take the 2nd track. Follow this for a further 100m until you reach the fenced off solution pipe.

Summary:

All Escalada trad

Lat / Long: -37.471992, 141.931904

Table of contents

1. Victoria 21,032 routes in Region

1.1. North West 12,684 routes in Region

1.1.1. Arapiles 3,274 routes in Crag

1.1.2. Grampians 9,155 routes in Region

1.1.3. Mt Hope 65 routes in Crag

1.1.4. Mt Kooyoora 145 routes in Crag

1.1.5. Mt Cole 45 routes in Crag

1.2. Granite Highlands 263 routes in Region

1.2.1. Big Hill 41 routes in Crag

1.2.2. Teneriffe 105 routes in Crag

1.2.3. Wombat Rock 3 routes in Cliff

1.2.4. Central Quarry 4 routes in Cliff

1.2.5. The Boulder Orchard 1 route in Field

1.2.6. Killeen's Hill 1 route in Cliff

1.2.7. The Rockery 4 routes in Cliff

1.2.8. Rolling Stone Wall 13 routes in Cliff

1.2.9. Kobyboyne 1 route in Crag

1.2.10. Pulpit Rock 14 routes in Crag

1.2.11. South Blue Range (Andromeda) 2 routes in Crag

1.2.12. The Bishop's Mitre 2 routes in Crag

1.2.13. Strathbogie Ranges 13 routes in Crag

1.2.14. Barjass Hill 4 routes in Crag

1.2.15. Warby Ranges 2 routes in Crag

1.2.16. Warragul Rocks (Tallarook) 36 routes in Crag

1.2.17. Mt. Sugarloaf NCR 17 routes in Crag

1.3. North East 1,481 routes in Region

1.3.1. Mount Buffalo 874 routes in Crag

1.3.2. Camp Flat 1 route in Crag

1.3.3. Beechworth Area 188 routes in Crag

1.3.4. Albury Quarry 26 routes in Crag

1.3.5. Felltimber Creek Crag 106 routes in Crag

1.3.6. Mansfield 2 routes in Crag

1.3.7. Omeo 96 routes in Crag

1.3.8. Corryong 65 routes in Crag

1.3.9. Buchan 41 routes in Crag

1.3.10. Wulgulmerang 14 routes in Crag

1.3.11. Snobs Creek 9 routes in Crag

Access: Area closed

1.3.12. Mt Bogong 17 routes in Crag

1.3.13. Mt Buller 0 routes in Crag