Ajuda

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. North East 1,481 routes in Region

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Sazonalidade

Escalada em rocha, Escalada trad e outros estilos

Lat / Long: -36.724571, 147.379308

1.1. Mount Buffalo 874 routes in Crag

Summary:
Escalada em rocha, Escalada trad e outros estilos

Lat / Long: -36.706165, 146.774778

sumário

Extraordinary climbing on alpine granite of all grades on everything from boulders through single pitch crags to multi day aid affairs on the North Wall of the gorge.

descrição

Mount Buffalo consists of both a large gorge and an alpine plateau.

For those staying for long periods at Mt Buffalo, there is Telstra reception throughout the majority of the national park, but limited Optus coverage found at the carpark for the Gorge and the Horn.

acesso

Varies from short to long, flat to steep walk ins or abseil approaches both short and long.

onde ficar

Paid camping is available at Lake Catani between November and April on the plateau and can be booked online (https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/mount-buffalo-national-park/where-to-stay/lake-catani-campground) or over the phone via Parks Victoria. Beware, the campground is quite expensive at $27/night per site. Of course you can also bivvy on the walls of the gorge during multi day ascents, or just for the fun of it. Remember to note your intentions in the climbers log at the Park Info shelter near Bents Lookout.

Free remote camping is available on the Plateau at Rocky Creek and Mt. McLeod via several km walks.

Free camp sites are available in State Forest in the nearby Buckland Valley as well as other nearby forests.

ética

Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes.

história

Early Aboriginal history regarding Mt Buffalo is somewhat sketchy but the Yiatmathang and Minjambuta mobs regularly trekked up to the plateau in the warmer months to harvest Bogong moths.

The first non-Aboriginal sighting was made in 1824 by the explorers Hume and Hovell. In 1853 it was climbed by botanists von Mueller and Dallachy.

In 1898, 1,166 ha were declared as a temporary national park. This was expanded by 9,356 ha in 1908 when the road to the plateau was opened.

In 1910 The Chalet was built, along with the dam wall that created Lake Catani. The first ski tows were built in 1936.

Rock climbing started in the 1930's with a few routes at The Cathedral and the Wall of China though records are almost non- existent. During the late '40s and '50s several visits were made by Melbourne University Mountaineering Club groups.

Geoff Shaw established climbs at The Cathedral in 1959 and 1961. Not much of note happened until a very young John Ewbank visited for the first time and claimed the first true ascent of The Cathedral pinnacle with Maharajah with a number of aids. He would return in 1968 to claim the first free ascent of the line as well.

*Based on the 2006 Mt Buffalo guide by Lindorff & Murray.

1.1.1. Eurobin Falls 17 routes in Crag

Summary:
Escalada em rocha, Escalada trad e Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: -36.719201, 146.836219

sumário

Easy to get to (only 15 minute drive from Porepunkah), a range of unique trad, and mixed climbs, picturesque and a great spot for a swim.

© (willmonks)

descrição

The rap anchor above 'Muscle Beach' was fixed December 2010.

© (willmonks)

acesso

(10-15 minutes) The first crag going up the mountain. Park at Eurobin falls carpark, follow tourist path to the upper Eurobin Falls lookout (750m) take climbers track L down to the bottom of the waterfall. Climbs are desribed left to right.

© (willmonks)

1.1.2. Mackeys Lookout 21 routes in Crag

Summary:
Escalada trad, Escalada esportiva e Escalada em rocha

Lat / Long: -36.711500, 146.830361

descrição

Big slabby area with lots of atmosphere

Useful Info: Be careful of the established routes, while some of them are easy there is very little (if any) protection.

© (jgoding)

acesso

About 1/3 the way down the mountain you will find a hair pin bend with a sign on the left (as you drive down) saying "Mackey's lookout". To get to 'Stiletto' 'Slabs' park here, walk across the road (past the prominent sign post on the right), up "The Big Walk" for about 10mins. Just before (say 30-50m) you reach the stream (which turns into the waterfall on the main face) contour left along the white slabs, cross the waterfall (carefully) and abseil down the far side (right as you look OUT from the cliff) from a rappel station (2 rings) on an easy to get to huge boulder. Rap is 25m to another rap. 55m is the next rap, so make sure you have suitable ropes. It is about 40m from the rap below to the bottom of the (new) routes described here.

On the right hand side of the cliff (climber's right), scramble down to the slab proper, and there is a 50m rap to another 30m rap to the bottom.

For access to the 'Noblesse Oblige' area see separate access notes in that section.

© (jgoding)

1.1.3. Mt McLeod 21 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Escalada em rocha

Lat / Long: -36.690011, 146.797908

sumário

Long, sparsely protected, multi-pitch slabs up generally very clean granite in a remote/wilderness setting. Routes get full sun - take adequate water. Let others know your intentions before you go.

acesso

Very problematic. The best option still involves approx. 4 hours walking (!). Drive along the road to the Reservoir and Devil's Couch (this dirt road turns off the bitumen near the Ranger's residence). Just before this road ends at the reservoir carpark there is a gate across the access track (on the right), barring vehicular access to all but authorised personnel. Walk along this track for about 2 1/2 hours (6.5km) to the Mt McLeod remote camping area (permit required to camp here) opposite Dells Plain (grid ref. DV804391). Follow the track across Second Plain, then turn off NNE to the low top approx. 500m away (grid ref. DV809397). Continue approx 300m to the head of the gully (grid ref. DV808400) which drops down on the west side of the climbs. A long slog down this gully accesses the base of the climbs. Good luck!

onde ficar

Remote camping is available here and may be used to explore the Northern Plateau.

1.1.4. The Gorge - South Side 216 routes in Crag

Summary:
Escalada em rocha, Escalada trad e outros estilos

Lat / Long: -36.721583, 146.823732

acesso

This track accesses routes in the gorge itself, eg. Where Angels Fear to Tread. Not necessarily the best approach for all routes.

Park at the Gorge Day Visitor Area near the Mount Buffalo Chalet and walk down towards Echo Point Lookout. Pass the hang-glider ramp and trend right into the obvious shallow gully via a wooden step and a "no entry" sign. From here wind your down and left into the gorge (and briefly up) passing many cairns and the well-named Mushroom Rock. Towards the bottom there are a few steepish fixed ropes to negotiate. If you hit Crystal Brook you've gone too far.

1.1.5. The Gorge - North Side 102 routes in Crag

Summary:
Escalada em rocha, Escalada artificial e outros estilos

Lat / Long: -36.717802, 146.822315

1.1.6. Reservoir Environs 30 routes in Crag

Summary:
Escalada trad, Escalada em rocha e outros estilos

Lat / Long: -36.733629, 146.773226

1.1.7. Lake Catani 74 routes in Crag

Summary:
Escalada em rocha, Escalada trad e outros estilos

Lat / Long: -36.733257, 146.812530

descrição

Tors spread around 'Lake Catani'. They are all easily accessible by foot from the campground.

© (koala)

1.1.8. Le Souef Plateau 53 routes in Crag

Summary:
Escalada em rocha, Escalada trad e Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: -36.754222, 146.796128

1.1.9. The Cathedral 68 routes in Area

Summary:
Escalada trad, Escalada em rocha e Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: -36.755239, 146.786843

descrição

A mighty spire which hosts many of Mt Buffalo's most talked about routes. Easy access and now thanks to the new guide very easy to find your way around

Useful Info: As usual for 'Buffalo', some routes here are a little bold for the timid. If you want the most consumer friendly routes, aim for:

'Maharajah' (17**)

Bloodknok (17**)

'Sultan' (20***)

Edge of Pleasure (21***) top pitch is spectacular (you can rap in), the first pitch is now quite overgrown and is not really worth it.

Sunrunner (22**)

The next 3 routes are fairly safe but not for the timid, and are excellent.

'Woodpecker Wall' Variant (22**)

Substance Abuse (24***)

The Dreaming (23***)

© (jgoding)

acesso

The Cathedral is located about half way between 'Lake Catani' and the Horn (at the end of the road). Obviously visible from the road.

The Cathedral/Hump walking track starts from the western side of the road, on the opposite side of the road to a toilet block. There are spaces to park on either side of the road.

Follow the track to reach a signpost at a 'saddle' between The Cathedral (immediately on the right at this point) and The Hump.

The route Twin Cracks follows the twin crack system seen easily from and close to the track (and starting approximately 20 right of the track).

From about 50m short of the saddle (at the third of a series of three hairpin bends) it is easy to scramble down right (looking at the base of the cliff) for the Hair Trigger wall, Sultan and beyond.

An alternative and quicker option for approaching the Maharajah area is to head up from the aforementioned bend in the track to an obvious chasm that separates the main buttress from the eastern pinnacle. A scramble through this brings you out the other side to very close to the start of Huns Don't Cruise and close to the start of Maharajah.

Easiest access to routes such as The Pinch, Sorcerer's Apprentice and routes further left is to head leftward (facing the cliff) from where the track hits the saddle between The Cathedral and The Hump.

© (jgoding)

1.1.10. The Hump Area 78 routes in Crag

Summary:
Escalada trad, Escalada em rocha e outros estilos

Lat / Long: -36.758157, 146.787480

acesso

Follow The Cathedral/Hump summit walking track past the cathedral.

1.1.11. Buckland Slabs 24 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Escalada em rocha

Lat / Long: -36.780461, 146.797630

descrição

Decent length routes on good rock.

Useful Info: See P154 of the V5 Mt 'Buffalo' guide (2006 - VCC) for access and route details. Park at the old 'Buffalo' lodge car park and walk towards Dixons Falls. A GPS would be handy (especially if someone was good enough to note the GPS Co-ordinates here!

© (jgoding)

acesso

1.5hr walk in, mostly flat on a good track, with the last bit a bush bash.

© (jgoding)

1.1.12. Tatra Inn 25 routes in Crag

Summary:
Escalada em rocha, Escalada trad e Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: -36.760956, 146.778630

1.1.13. The Back Wall Area 36 routes in Crag

Summary:
Escalada em rocha, Escalada artificial e Escalada trad

Lat / Long: -36.790021, 146.766818

1.1.14. The Horn Area 105 routes in Crag

Summary:
Escalada trad, Escalada em rocha e outros estilos

Lat / Long: -36.776019, 146.766710

descrição

The highest place to climb at 'Buffalo' with a good range of excellent routes. Super easy access up the tourist track to the huge lookout.

Useful Info: Best Routes:

Big Fun (15**)

'The Pintle' Left Hand Varient (16**)

Hoi Polloi (16*)

Peroxide Blonde (20**) - would get 3 stars if it was longer.

*Please use the two new carrot bolts to rap into Big Fun/Peroxide Blonde/The Pintle LHV rather than going off the lookout handrails as the rangers will get quite antsy if you do.

*Don't forget bolt plates as almost all the bolts are carrot style (no hangers).

© (jgoding)

acesso

At the end of the road you will find it...

© (jgoding)

1.1.15. Washout Wall 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Escalada em rocha

1.1.16. Cresta Valley 3 routes in Field

Summary:
All Boulder

Lat / Long: -36.771460, 146.781400

sumário

Extensive field of boulders with some high quality problems. Just starting to receive attention by some local climbers recently [04/2023]. Help develop this amazing area!

descrição

Huge potential of boulder problems in the big boulder field just below the horn. Easy walk in by taking the trail towards the "Back Wall" or "Dickson's Falls". Problems of all difficulties can be found. Generally very rough rock, so bring your tape with you. Park rangers advice to stay off the wetlands, which will be the swampy patches you can find off the trails.

questões de acesso

Since park rangers advice to stay off the wetlands, I'd say we focus on the boulders close to the trails, along which there is heaps to discover already anyways. If you want to venture, try to avoid treading through the swamps to help preserve this park please!

acesso

Easy walk in by taking the trail off the car park towards the "Back Wall" Area. Boulders can be found along the trails.

história

In its development. First ascents are getting put up by some local climbers (April 2023).

1.2. Camp Flat 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Lat / Long: -36.853773, 146.859132

sumário

Awesome little single problem at Camp Flat, 20 minutes from Bright and right on the campsite's river.

descrição

50 (?) degree overhung wall smattered with jugs on unreasonably good quality rock (For the area anyway)

acesso

Driving into the camp (Put 'Camp Flat' in Google Maps), at the river crossing look right, and its ~100m from the crossing on the corner.

onde ficar

Bright is only 20 minutes away, but the obvious choice is any of the beautiful, free, campsites nearby the climnb

1.3. Beechworth Area 188 routes in Crag

Summary:
Escalada trad, Boulder e outros estilos

Lat / Long: -36.356962, 146.690061

descrição

The area centred on Beechworth and bounded by the Hume Freeway on the northwest, the Alpine Road from Wangaratta to Myrtleford on the southwest, and the road from Albury to Myrtleford (via Yackandandah) on the east. Almost all of the rock is granite and a many of the crags are collections of boulders of varying sizes.

1.3.1. Beechworth Gorge 50 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Lat / Long: -36.353151, 146.678683

descrição

Boulders and quarries located adjacent to Gorge Rd

See http://www.chockstone.org/Beechworth/Bouldering.htm

acesso

Enter from the Beechworth-Wodonga Rd end of Gorge Rd for areas A, B and C. Enter at the Powder Magazine (Skidmore Rd) for areas D, E, F, G, H, I, J.

1.3.2. The Precipice 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Escalada em rocha

1.3.3. Flat Rock 6 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Escalada trad

Lat / Long: -36.358089, 146.643926

sumário

tiny 5-8m crag, hidden in the bushland, overgrown and a bit loose

descrição

As the name describes, flat rock is just that, A very large, flat, granite slab rock. can be easily walked up from any angle. crag is not part of the slab, but hidden in bush land on NE side.

questões de acesso

some tall grass, follow tracks, and traverse slabs.

acesso

boulder problem is on obvious large boulder, on top of slab, more potential possible. the rest of the climbsa are on the NE side of the slabs. Park at the North side fence corner, follow the fence (relatively) for 5 min, and youll find the crag and cave

onde ficar

plenty of camping around, prob go to Mt Pilot or Buffalo.

ética

trad or toprope, not worth the bolts

história

check the old VIC guides for details on lots of small areas like this.

1.3.4. Mt Pilot 88 routes in Area

Summary:
Escalada trad, Escalada esportiva e outros estilos

Lat / Long: -36.252220, 146.666647

descrição

Mt Pilot is a granite outcrop roughly halfway between the towns of Chiltern and Beechworth. Rock quality varies, however most of the routes are on good quality rock. The area is popular with locals as a short walk from the carpark offers good views in all directions.

acesso

Exit the Hume Freeway at Chiltern and turn towards Beechworth. After about 10 minutes, you'll pass a nursery on the left. At the top of the next hill, turn left on an unsealed track. Follow this to the carpark.

1.3.5. Mt Stanley 39 routes in Area

Summary:
Escalada trad, Escalada esportiva e Escalada em top rope

Lat / Long: -36.449125, 146.802096

descrição

Mt Stanley consists of a number of granite outcrops that are very similar to Mt Buffalo, although they are mostly quite short. This makes it a great spot to get some practice in for your projects on the mountain! The location of the crag (facing west and above 1000m altitude) means that it can quickly turn very cold, so be prepared for the weather! In winter, it can be snowing or cool with fantastic friction. In summer, it can be boiling hot or refreshingly cool (especially in the morning).

acesso

The drive to Mt Stanley is easy if it is dry. However, when it is wet, a few sections are very muddy and require a 4WD.

From Beechworth, drive to Stanley. When you get to the intersection in the middle of Stanley where you can turn right to Myrtleford, go left (Hillsborough Rd). Follow this - shortly after you pass Highgrove Orchard it turns to dirt. The second turn off to the right is Mt Stanley Rd - take this and follow it to the end where you'll see the main tower. To get to Talon Block and Grendel Corner, turn around and drive back about 300m and take the first 4WD track on the left. If you're in a car, park just off the road as this track is 4WD only. Follow it up and over the ridge and then around the corner you'll find the new (2013) comms tower.

1.3.6. The Pinnacles 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Escalada em rocha

1.3.7. Mt Jack 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Escalada em rocha

Lat / Long: -36.497711, 146.900530

1.4. Albury Quarry 26 routes in Crag

Summary:
Escalada esportiva, Boulder e outros estilos

Lat / Long: -36.080671, 146.902541

sumário

Easy access and close to town. Bring hangers for the routes on the back wall. The ring bolt anchors added in 2017 has made it a good option for training or a quick session.

descrição

Old quarry. Some routes can get pretty dirty but it's worth checking out if you are local.

acesso

Park at the end of Riverview Terrace and follow the track 200m to the entry to the quarry. Routes are on the the back and left walls.

ética

Anything goes here, after all it's a quarry, but please don't alter existing routes.

1.4.1. Back Wall 12 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Escalada esportiva, Escalada em top rope e Escalada trad

Lat / Long: -36.080468, 146.902625

descrição

Straight ahead as you enter the quarry.

1.4.2. Quarantine Wall 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Boulder

Lat / Long: -36.080834, 146.902328

descrição

So much choss, good to muck around on bouldering and soloing

acesso

Walk in, turn left.

1.4.3. Left wall 6 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: -36.080657, 146.902177

descrição

Steep wall on your left as you enter the quarry.

1.4.4. Ant Slabs 6 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Boulder

Lat / Long: -36.080971, 146.902718

descrição

The short slab on your right as you enter the quarry.

1.5. Felltimber Creek Crag 106 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Lat / Long: -36.128093, 146.824504

sumário

A compact bouldering area on the outskirts of Wodonga.

descrição

Felltimber Creek Crag is a collection of granite boulders on the south side of the hill just west of Wodonga. It is a good place to spend an afternoon, with several excellent problems and a large number of worthwhile ones. The problems are also quite varied, from slabs to faces to rooves to cracks. There are also a small number of roped climbs - Where Bovines Fear To Tread and Pimp Daddy Superstar being the highlights.

acesso

From Melbourne, take the 1st Wodonga exit (Melbourne Rd). Turn R at the first intersection past the overpass (Moorefield Park Drive). From Sydney, take the 3rd Wodonga exit (Melrose Dr). After crossing the railway line, turn R at the roundabout onto Melbourne Rd. Then take the first L onto Moorefield Park Drive. Once you're on Moorefield Park Drive, follow this to the end (a T intersection) and turn R onto Felltimber Creek Road. Follow this down a hill and over a bridge. About 400m after you pass Ingrams Rd (on the R), there's a carpark. Follow the obvious walking track to the climbing areas (which are on the S side of the hill). The carpark is marked on the street map with an X. The walking track is marked on the satellite map in green, and access to the crags is marked in yellow dashes.

1.5.1. The Citadel 44 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Lat / Long: -36.128296, 146.825300

acesso

The first area you see up on your R when walking along the track.

© (gordoste)

1.5.2. The Dairy 62 routes in Area

Summary:
Boulder, Escalada esportiva e outros estilos

Lat / Long: -36.128249, 146.823943

descrição

This area has more to do than the Citadel, especially with a rope. Problems can be powerful (Big-ass Bovine Style) or technical (Fresian). Where Bovines Fear To Tread is a must-do and has not yet been onsighted!

acesso

The second area you see up on your R when walking along the track.

© (gordoste)

1.6. Mansfield 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Escalada em rocha

Lat / Long: -37.068660, 146.097777

descrição

Mansfield is a small town with a population of approximately 4400 people in the foothills of the Victorian Alps.

acesso

Mansfield is easily accessible from all directions by car via major highways.

onde ficar

There are a variety of accommodation options in Mansfield, ranging from B&B's to luxury hotels and apartments.

1.6.1. Main Divide Lookout Cliff 2 routes in Area

Summary:

1.7. Omeo 96 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Escalada em rocha

Lat / Long: -37.021259, 147.773603

descrição

Omeo is a small town near Mount Hotham in Victoria with a population of approximately 500 people.

acesso

It can be easily accessed by car via the Great Alpine Road.

onde ficar

There is a range of accommodation available in Omeo.

1.7.1. Mount Jaithmathang 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Escalada trad

descrição

Mount Jaithmathang is a granite mountain range in Alpine National Park in Northern Victoria. Its most prominent peak, Mount Jaithmathangs lies at an elevation of 1826 metres above sea level.

1.7.2. Mt Tabletop 5 routes in Area

Summary:
All Escalada em rocha

descrição

Mount Tabletop is a mountain located in Alpine National Park in Northern Victoria. It is the main attraction of the Mount Tabletop Day Walk, a medium difficulty 3-4 hour return hike.

acesso

It can be accessed on the Mount Tabletop Hiking Trail, which is a 12 kilometre, 3-4 hour return hike.

1.7.3. Macfarlane's Lookout 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Escalada em rocha

Lat / Long: -36.880000, 147.804312

descrição

Macfarlane's Lookout is a lookout located in Macfarlane Lookout Scenic Reserve near Omeo, in Northern Victoria. Macfarlane's lookout sits at an elevation of 1097 metres above sea level.

acesso

Macfarlane's Lookout Scenic Reserve is accessible by car from the nearest town of Omeo.

onde ficar

A range of accommodation is available in nearby Omeo.

1.7.4. Rams Horn 31 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Escalada em rocha

Lat / Long: -36.901055, 148.118228

descrição

Rams Horn is a mountain located within Alpine National Park in Northern Victoria. It sits at an elevation of 1626 metres above sea level.

questões de acesso

It is located within Alpine National Park. Requires high clearance 4WD and experience to access. Track seasonally closed throughout winter from June.

acesso

It can be accessed via an unsealed road off the Snowy River Road or via Benambra, Limestone Rd. Look for Rams Horn Track. Requires high clearance 4WD and experience to access. HEMA reports medium grade, National Parks reports double black diamond. Poor weather will degrade access. Short walk from end of track.

onde ficar

Camp at the beautiful Native Dog Flat campground down the road or Omeo an hour away.

ética

It's a NP.

1.7.5. Rams Head Range 11 routes in Area

Summary:
All Escalada em rocha

descrição

The Ramshead Range is a mountain range that makes up part of both the Alpine National Park in Victoria and the Kosciuszko National Park in New South Wales. The range is also part of the Great Dividing Range. The highest point of the Ramshead Range is Mount Twynam, which stands at 2196 metres above sea level.

questões de acesso

Located in both Alpine National Park and Kosciuszko National Park.

onde ficar

Camping is available in both of these national parks.

1.7.6. Cobberas Range 43 routes in Area

Summary:
All Escalada em rocha

descrição

The Cobberas Range is a mountain range in Alpine National Park in Northern Victoria. Its highest point is Mount Cobberas No. 1, which stands at 1810 metres above sea level.

questões de acesso

Located in Alpine National Park

onde ficar

Camping is available throughout Alpine National Park.

1.8. Corryong 65 routes in Crag

Summary:
Escalada em rocha, Escalada trad e Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: -36.134901, 147.649072

descrição

Corryong is a small town in North Eastern Victoria with a population of approximately 1200 people. It lies near the upper reaches of the Murray River.

onde ficar

A range of accommodation is available in Corryong, with every level of accommodation from caravan parks to a hotel.

1.8.1. Mt Mittamatite 61 routes in Area

Summary:
Escalada em rocha e Escalada trad

Lat / Long: -36.145110, 147.859948

descrição

Mount Mittamatite is a volcanic plug that sits at an elevation of approximately 1000 metres above sea level. you will see a fire tower inside the locked fenced area

questões de acesso

requires a moderate clearance car for driving up ranch road, slippery dirt for 20km. use decent track or natural abseil (with caution), minimal bolts on cliff area

acesso

from Corryong; follow the Murray Valley HWY/RD towards Towong. continue down MVR for 7km, passing Farrans Lookout, and turn onto Ranch Road. There is a sign for Mt Mittamatite. continue on Ranch road (careful when passing cows) for about 20km, will take at least 25 min to get to the top, (dry weather only) with a moderate clearance car. once at the top, you'll see a locked gate for the fire tower and a small road to the left of the fence. take that for about 500m and you'll reach a clearing, known as the campsite with a picnic table, park here. -36.147768, 147.858996 follow the signs to the lookout (300m) and the crag is below you.

onde ficar

A small range of accommodation is available in nearby Corryong.

ética

Use Natural Pro for abseils or use descent gully. rock seems to be of average quality, any bolting should be thoroughly checked for quality.

1.8.2. Conic Range Rocks 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
Escalada trad e Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: -36.116623, 147.425643

sumário

The state park maintained walking track known as Conic Range Walking tracks ends at a lookout where the crag is located

descrição

A variety granite cliffs up to 35 metres surrounded by numerous large boulders.

questões de acesso

Easy access with 15 minutes walk from carpark

acesso

At Mt Lawson State Park turn off Murray Valley Highway on Firebrace track. Follow track for approximately 10km till arriving at the trailhead carpark for Conic Range walking track

onde ficar

Koetong Pub the closest facilities

história

Dhudhuroa are the traditional owners and any signs of early human habitation must be protected. Parks do know of several artefacts in the area, but locations are not made public to protect them from vandalism. Bob Cowan is the earliest known climber who first attempted climbs at this crag

1.9. Buchan 41 routes in Crag

Summary:
Escalada em rocha, Escalada trad e Escalada artificial

Lat / Long: -37.396434, 148.263226

descrição

Buchan is a small town in the East Gippsland Region of Northern Victoria with a population of approximately 400 people.

acesso

Access to Buchan is by car via Gelantipy Road from the North, Timbara Road from the West, Bruthen-Buchan Road from the South and the Buchan Orbost Road from the South East.

onde ficar

There is a small variety of accommodation within the town.

1.9.1. Englishman's Castle 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Escalada trad

descrição

Englishman's Castle is a collection of two rocky outcrops near Buchan.

1.9.2. Wave Wall 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Escalada em rocha

1.9.3. Slunt Wall 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Escalada em rocha

Lat / Long: -37.505787, 148.212900

descrição

Slunt Wall, also known as Armchair Flat or The Ampitheatre, is a small limestone cliff near Buchan in Victoria.

1.9.4. Buchan Rocks 12 routes in Area

Summary:
All Escalada em rocha

1.9.5. Farmhouse Wall 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Escalada trad e Escalada em rocha

Lat / Long: -37.421722, 148.210908

descrição

Farmhouse Wall is a cliff located on private property near Buchan in Northern Victoria.

acesso

Access is by car via Shaw's Gulley Road, from which it is a short walk to the base of the cliff.

1.9.6. The Pyramids 12 routes in Crag

Summary:
Escalada trad e Escalada em rocha

descrição

The Pyramids is a collection of limestone cliffs on private property in Northern Victoria.

questões de acesso

Located on private property.

1.9.7. Python Wall 2 routes in Area

Summary:
Escalada trad e Escalada em rocha

1.9.8. The Cauldron 2 routes in Area

Summary:
Escalada em rocha e Escalada artificial

1.9.9. Balley Hooley Ridge 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Escalada em rocha

1.9.10. Tulloch Ard Gorge 6 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Escalada em rocha

Lat / Long: -37.286930, 148.315979

descrição

Tulloch Ard Gorge is a gorge in Snowy River National Park near Buchan in Northern Victoria.

questões de acesso

The gorge is located in Snowy River National Park.

1.10. Wulgulmerang 14 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Escalada em rocha

Lat / Long: -37.031805, 148.315676

descrição

Wulgulmerang is a small town in North-Eastern Victoria with a population of around 260 people. The town sits at an elevation of 889 metres above sea level.

acesso

Wulgulmerang is accessible by car via the Snowy River Road.

onde ficar

There is caravan park accommodation in Wulgulmerang.

1.10.1. Little River Gorge 10 routes in Area

Summary:
Escalada em rocha e Escalada trad

Lat / Long: -37.085441, 148.316328

sumário

Climbing in Australia's deepest gorge.

descrição

Little River Gorge is Australia's deepest gorge. It is home to the Little River. It is located in Snowy River National Park.

questões de acesso

Located in Snowy River National Park.

acesso

A 400 metre walking track leads to a lookout at the top of the gorge.

onde ficar

Camping is available throughout Snowy River National Park.

1.10.2. Hanging Rock 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Escalada em rocha

Lat / Long: -37.022866, 148.315885

1.10.3. Ballantyne's Gap 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Escalada em rocha

Lat / Long: -36.975050, 148.312028

descrição

Ballantyne's Gap is located next to Little Mount Hamilton in Snowy River National Park.

questões de acesso

Located in Snowy River National Park.

1.11. Snobs Creek 9 routes in Crag

Access: Area closed

Visited March 2024 - Appears entire area is closed - signs state area which includes Wildlife Reserve is a Fisheries Authority site no longer open to public.

See warning details and discuss

Created 8 weeks ago
Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Lat / Long: -37.268316, 145.875114

descrição

Snobs Creek is located within Snobs Creek Wildlife Reserve in Northeast Victoria.

questões de acesso

Located in Snobs Creek Wildlife Reserve.

acesso

It is easily accessible by car via the Goulburn Valley Highway.

1.11.1. Stevens Cliff 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Escalada em rocha

1.11.2. Snobs Little Boulder 8 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Boulder

Lat / Long: -37.270707, 145.875050

descrição

Boulder near snobs creek. Southern side (near Theory of Change) is slowly being reclaimed by moss. Likely a couple of difficult unclimbed problems on this section for the enthusiastic local!

1.12. Mt Bogong 17 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Escalada em gelo

Lat / Long: -36.740332, 147.306702

descrição

Mount Bogong is a 1986 metre high mountain located in Alpine National Park in Northeastern Victoria.

questões de acesso

Located in Alpine National Park.

onde ficar

Camping is available at various sites throughout Alpine National Park.

1.12.1. Pollux Outcrop 17 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: -36.728107, 147.301874

descrição

Pollux Outcrop is a group of rock buttresses located just below the summit of Mount Bogong. In the winter months, the buttresses provide the opportunity for ice climbing.

acesso

Routes are described right to left.

1.13. Mt Buller 0 routes in Crag

descrição

Mount Buller is a picturesque ski town which shares its name with the nearby Mount Buller. The town has a population of approximately 260 people.

acesso

The town of Mount Buller can be easily accessed via Mt Buller Road.

onde ficar

A range of accommodation options are available in the town of Mount Buller.

1.13.1. South Face 0 routes in Crag

descrição

The South Face of Mount Buller.

1.13.2. Western Side 0 routes in Crag

descrição

The Western Face of Mount Buller.

1.14. Gorgeous Crag 33 routes in Crag

Summary:
Boulder, Escalada esportiva e outros estilos

Lat / Long: -36.752597, 147.171102

descrição

A small cliff band that is under development by a group of local climbers. When done it will offer 16 - 20 routes, 8-12m high, and 15+ boulder problems spread over three areas. Developed with a big focus on being family friendly and aiding in skill development as well as a fun local crag for arvo summer sessions.

Be sure to bring your swimmers as the Gorge has many great post-climb swimming spots

acesso

->STILL UNDER CONSTRUCTION - track is stabilised in many sections but work is not yet completed. <-

FROM INFO CENTER

  • Nav to Mount Beauty Info Center and turn down the road directly opposite it. With the electricity switch yard to your left, drive to the end and park near the locked gate. Walk past the locked gate and follow the service road with the creek on your right, until you see signs for the 'Gorge Walk'. Follow those signs till you cross the creek via a suspension bridge.

.

FROM BIG HILL MOUNTAIN BIKE PARK

  • Nav to the mountain bike park or to the "Mount Beauty Gorge Walk", park and follow the signs to the Gorge Walk till you cross the creek via a suspension bridge.

.

FROM SUSPENSION BRIDGE

  • On the other side of the bridge the path to the Gorge bends left. Instead once you step off the bridge, head straight ahead up a difficult 'goat track' till you reach a sign for the Crag. Follow the track, switch backing up the hill. Close to the crag you will reach another sign at a fork in the track. For the "Sunshine Wall" follow the track to the left.

1.14.1. Sunshine Wall 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Escalada esportiva, Escalada trad e outros estilos

Lat / Long: -36.752688, 147.171164

descrição

The main wall of the crag. Cops full sun from 11am till 5pm during Summer. STILL UNDER DEVELOPMENT

1.14.2. Blackberry Wall 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Boulder

Lat / Long: -36.752575, 147.171143

descrição

Broken up cliff band below the Sunshine Wall. Contains a variety of Boulder problems with most offering topouts. STILL UNDER DEVELOPMENT

1.14.3. The Oasis 15 routes in Sector

Summary:
Boulder, Escalada em top rope e outros estilos

Lat / Long: -36.752641, 147.170746

descrição

A little gully tucked away from the sun and wind. A perfect place for lunch by Hidden Falls or to enjoy the short but pumpy sport climbs. Also has a variety of boulder problems. STILL UNDER DEVELOPMENT

acesso

With the Sunshine Wall on your left walk towards the clump of trees nestled within the small canyon, following the zig zag path down to the base.

1.15. Alpine Stones 6 routes in Field

Flora e Fauna: National Park`

This is a National Park. Destruction of native flora (e.g. lichen) is illegal. This area is alpine and as such it is a threatened area (by climate change) as well as being an area very sensitive to human impact.

  1. Any refence to cleaning of rocks needs to be removed from this page.

  2. A warning should be given to tell climbers that cleaning of boulders in National Parks is illegal.

  3. Preferably this area should be taken down by The Crag and bouldering on the Victoria High Plains discouraged.

This bouldering area is NOT worth leaving on this site and giving Parks Victoria another excuse to put blanket bans on climbing in Victorian National Parks.

See warning details and discuss

Created about two years ago
Summary:
All Boulder

Lat / Long: -36.878864, 147.293609

descrição

Cute granite boulders along the Bogong High Plains Road - have a go if you're driving past

acesso

With decent visibility you should be able to see the blocks from the road

ética

Note this Bouldering area is in a National Park. Destruction of native flora (e.g. lichen) is illegal. This area is alpine and as such it is a threatened area (by climate change) as well as being an area very sensitive to human impact.

Cleaning of boulders in National Parks is illegal - tread very lighty with your impact.

1.16. Fall's Creek 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Lat / Long: -36.862236, 147.278119

sumário

Lovely little retaining wall below the first main carpark in Falls Creek. Lots of very short top out problems, as well as a pumpy and interesting traverse.

descrição

More retaining walls may be explored in near future. Lots of potential. Risky in winter.

questões de acesso

The routes all consist of retaining walls so not suitable for high traffic. Pissing off Parks Victoria not recommended. May result in the next Arapiles. Expect stares from mountain bikers/skiiers.

acesso

Drive south along Bogong High Plains Road entering Falls Creek. Main Retaining Wall can be found on the left side of the road just before the Gully Day Carpark.

onde ficar

Up to your budget, but the Falls Creek Country Club is nice. Spectacular views of said retaining wall.

ética

Please see statement Re: Parks Victoria. Rock is somewhat loose. Have fun.

história

Three bored climbers in the high country - what else would happen?

1.16.1. Main Retaining Wall 3 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: -36.861524, 147.276946

sumário

Main wall on left of road next to Gully Day Carpark.

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文