Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.
Table of contents
- 1.
North East
1481 in Region
-
1.1.
Mount Buffalo / Buffalo 874 in Crag
- 1.1.1. Eurobin Falls 17 in Crag
- 1.1.2. Mackeys Lookout 21 in Crag
- 1.1.3. Mt McLeod 21 in Crag
- 1.1.4. The Gorge - South Side 216 in Crag
- 1.1.5. The Gorge - North Side 102 in Crag
- 1.1.6. Reservoir Environs 30 in Crag
- 1.1.7. Lake Catani 74 in Crag
- 1.1.8. Le Souef Plateau 53 in Crag
- 1.1.9. The Cathedral 68 in Area
- 1.1.10. The Hump Area 78 in Crag
- 1.1.11. Buckland Slabs 24 in Crag
- 1.1.12. Tatra Inn 25 in Crag
- 1.1.13. The Back Wall Area 36 in Crag
- 1.1.14. The Horn Area 105 in Crag
- 1.1.15. Washout Wall 1 in Crag
- 1.1.16. Cresta Valley 3 in Field
- 1.2. Camp Flat 1 in Crag
-
1.3.
Beechworth Area 188 in Crag
- 1.3.1. Beechworth Gorge 50 in Area
- 1.3.2. The Precipice 3 in Area
- 1.3.3. Flat Rock 6 in Area
- 1.3.4. Mt Pilot 88 in Area
- 1.3.5. Mt Stanley 39 in Area
- 1.3.6. The Pinnacles 1 in Area
- 1.3.7. Mt Jack 1 in Area
-
1.4.
Albury Quarry 26 in Crag
- 1.4.1. Back Wall 12 in Cliff
- 1.4.2. Quarantine Wall 2 in Cliff
- 1.4.3. Left wall 6 in Sector
- 1.4.4. Ant Slabs 6 in Sector
-
1.5.
Felltimber Creek Crag / Macfarland's Hill 106 in Crag
- 1.5.1. The Citadel 44 in Area
- 1.5.2. The Dairy 62 in Area
-
1.6.
Mansfield 2 in Crag
- 1.6.1. Main Divide Lookout Cliff 2 in Area
-
1.7.
Omeo 96 in Crag
- 1.7.1. Mount Jaithmathang / The Niggerheads 4 in Area
- 1.7.2. Mt Tabletop 5 in Area
- 1.7.3. Macfarlane's Lookout 2 in Area
- 1.7.4. Rams Horn 31 in Area
- 1.7.5. Rams Head Range 11 in Area
- 1.7.6. Cobberas Range 43 in Area
-
1.8.
Corryong 65 in Crag
- 1.8.1. Mt Mittamatite 61 in Area
- 1.8.2. Conic Range Rocks 4 in Crag
-
1.9.
Buchan 41 in Crag
- 1.9.1. Englishman's Castle 2 in Crag
- 1.9.2. Wave Wall 1 in Area
- 1.9.3. Slunt Wall / Armchair Flat / The Ampitheatre 1 in Crag
- 1.9.4. Buchan Rocks 12 in Area
- 1.9.5. Farmhouse Wall 2 in Cliff
- 1.9.6. The Pyramids 12 in Crag
- 1.9.7. Python Wall 2 in Area
- 1.9.8. The Cauldron 2 in Area
- 1.9.9. Balley Hooley Ridge 1 in Area
- 1.9.10. Tulloch Ard Gorge 6 in Crag
-
1.10.
Wulgulmerang 14 in Crag
- 1.10.1. Little River Gorge 10 in Area
- 1.10.2. Hanging Rock 3 in Area
- 1.10.3. Ballantyne's Gap 1 in Area
-
1.11.
Snobs Creek 9 in Crag
- 1.11.1. Stevens Cliff 1 in Area
- 1.11.2. Snobs Little Boulder 8 in Boulder
-
1.12.
Mt Bogong 17 in Crag
- 1.12.1. Pollux Outcrop 17 in Crag
-
1.13.
Mt Buller 0 in Crag
- 1.13.1. South Face 0 in Crag
- 1.13.2. Western Side 0 in Crag
-
1.14.
Gorgeous Crag 33 in Crag
- 1.14.1. Sunshine Wall 14 in Cliff
- 1.14.2. Blackberry Wall 4 in Cliff
- 1.14.3. The Oasis 15 in Sector
- 1.15. Alpine Stones 6 in Field
-
1.16.
Fall's Creek 3 in Area
- 1.16.1. Main Retaining Wall 3 in Area
-
1.1.
Mount Buffalo / Buffalo 874 in Crag
1. North East 1,481 routes in Region
- Summary:
-
Klettern, traditionelles Klettern und andere Stile
Lat / Long: -36.724571, 147.379308
1.1. Mount Buffalo 874 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Klettern, traditionelles Klettern und andere Stile
Lat / Long: -36.706165, 146.774778
Übersicht
Extraordinary climbing on alpine granite of all grades on everything from boulders through single pitch crags to multi day aid affairs on the North Wall of the gorge.
Beschreibung
Mount Buffalo consists of both a large gorge and an alpine plateau.
For those staying for long periods at Mt Buffalo, there is Telstra reception throughout the majority of the national park, but limited Optus coverage found at the carpark for the Gorge and the Horn.
Zustieg
Varies from short to long, flat to steep walk ins or abseil approaches both short and long.
Übernachtung
Paid camping is available at Lake Catani between November and April on the plateau and can be booked online (https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/mount-buffalo-national-park/where-to-stay/lake-catani-campground) or over the phone via Parks Victoria. Beware, the campground is quite expensive at $27/night per site. Of course you can also bivvy on the walls of the gorge during multi day ascents, or just for the fun of it. Remember to note your intentions in the climbers log at the Park Info shelter near Bents Lookout.
Free remote camping is available on the Plateau at Rocky Creek and Mt. McLeod via several km walks.
Free camp sites are available in State Forest in the nearby Buckland Valley as well as other nearby forests.
Ethik
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes.
Geschichte
Early Aboriginal history regarding Mt Buffalo is somewhat sketchy but the Yiatmathang and Minjambuta mobs regularly trekked up to the plateau in the warmer months to harvest Bogong moths.
The first non-Aboriginal sighting was made in 1824 by the explorers Hume and Hovell. In 1853 it was climbed by botanists von Mueller and Dallachy.
In 1898, 1,166 ha were declared as a temporary national park. This was expanded by 9,356 ha in 1908 when the road to the plateau was opened.
In 1910 The Chalet was built, along with the dam wall that created Lake Catani. The first ski tows were built in 1936.
Rock climbing started in the 1930's with a few routes at The Cathedral and the Wall of China though records are almost non- existent. During the late '40s and '50s several visits were made by Melbourne University Mountaineering Club groups.
Geoff Shaw established climbs at The Cathedral in 1959 and 1961. Not much of note happened until a very young John Ewbank visited for the first time and claimed the first true ascent of The Cathedral pinnacle with Maharajah with a number of aids. He would return in 1968 to claim the first free ascent of the line as well.
*Based on the 2006 Mt Buffalo guide by Lindorff & Murray.
1.1.1. Eurobin Falls 17 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Klettern, traditionelles Klettern und Sportklettern
Lat / Long: -36.719201, 146.836219
Übersicht
Easy to get to (only 15 minute drive from Porepunkah), a range of unique trad, and mixed climbs, picturesque and a great spot for a swim.
Beschreibung
The rap anchor above 'Muscle Beach' was fixed December 2010.
Zustieg
(10-15 minutes) The first crag going up the mountain. Park at Eurobin falls carpark, follow tourist path to the upper Eurobin Falls lookout (750m) take climbers track L down to the bottom of the waterfall. Climbs are desribed left to right.
1.1.2. Mackeys Lookout 21 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
traditionelles Klettern, Sportklettern und Klettern
Lat / Long: -36.711500, 146.830361
Beschreibung
Big slabby area with lots of atmosphere
Useful Info: Be careful of the established routes, while some of them are easy there is very little (if any) protection.
Zustieg
About 1/3 the way down the mountain you will find a hair pin bend with a sign on the left (as you drive down) saying "Mackey's lookout". To get to 'Stiletto' 'Slabs' park here, walk across the road (past the prominent sign post on the right), up "The Big Walk" for about 10mins. Just before (say 30-50m) you reach the stream (which turns into the waterfall on the main face) contour left along the white slabs, cross the waterfall (carefully) and abseil down the far side (right as you look OUT from the cliff) from a rappel station (2 rings) on an easy to get to huge boulder. Rap is 25m to another rap. 55m is the next rap, so make sure you have suitable ropes. It is about 40m from the rap below to the bottom of the (new) routes described here.
On the right hand side of the cliff (climber's right), scramble down to the slab proper, and there is a 50m rap to another 30m rap to the bottom.
For access to the 'Noblesse Oblige' area see separate access notes in that section.
1.1.3. Mt McLeod 21 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Hauptsächlich Klettern
Lat / Long: -36.690011, 146.797908
Übersicht
Long, sparsely protected, multi-pitch slabs up generally very clean granite in a remote/wilderness setting. Routes get full sun - take adequate water. Let others know your intentions before you go.
Zustieg
Very problematic. The best option still involves approx. 4 hours walking (!). Drive along the road to the Reservoir and Devil's Couch (this dirt road turns off the bitumen near the Ranger's residence). Just before this road ends at the reservoir carpark there is a gate across the access track (on the right), barring vehicular access to all but authorised personnel. Walk along this track for about 2 1/2 hours (6.5km) to the Mt McLeod remote camping area (permit required to camp here) opposite Dells Plain (grid ref. DV804391). Follow the track across Second Plain, then turn off NNE to the low top approx. 500m away (grid ref. DV809397). Continue approx 300m to the head of the gully (grid ref. DV808400) which drops down on the west side of the climbs. A long slog down this gully accesses the base of the climbs. Good luck!
Übernachtung
Remote camping is available here and may be used to explore the Northern Plateau.
1.1.4. The Gorge - South Side 216 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Klettern, traditionelles Klettern und andere Stile
Lat / Long: -36.721583, 146.823732
Zustieg
This track accesses routes in the gorge itself, eg. Where Angels Fear to Tread. Not necessarily the best approach for all routes.
Park at the Gorge Day Visitor Area near the Mount Buffalo Chalet and walk down towards Echo Point Lookout. Pass the hang-glider ramp and trend right into the obvious shallow gully via a wooden step and a "no entry" sign. From here wind your down and left into the gorge (and briefly up) passing many cairns and the well-named Mushroom Rock. Towards the bottom there are a few steepish fixed ropes to negotiate. If you hit Crystal Brook you've gone too far.
1.1.5. The Gorge - North Side 102 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Klettern, technisches Klettern und andere Stile
Lat / Long: -36.717802, 146.822315
1.1.6. Reservoir Environs 30 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
traditionelles Klettern, Klettern und andere Stile
Lat / Long: -36.733629, 146.773226
1.1.7. Lake Catani 74 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Klettern, traditionelles Klettern und andere Stile
Lat / Long: -36.733257, 146.812530
Beschreibung
Tors spread around 'Lake Catani'. They are all easily accessible by foot from the campground.
1.1.8. Le Souef Plateau 53 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Klettern, traditionelles Klettern und Sportklettern
Lat / Long: -36.754222, 146.796128
1.1.9. The Cathedral 68 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
traditionelles Klettern, Klettern und Sportklettern
Lat / Long: -36.755239, 146.786843
Beschreibung
A mighty spire which hosts many of Mt Buffalo's most talked about routes. Easy access and now thanks to the new guide very easy to find your way around
Useful Info: As usual for 'Buffalo', some routes here are a little bold for the timid. If you want the most consumer friendly routes, aim for:
'Maharajah' (17**)
Bloodknok (17**)
'Sultan' (20***)
Edge of Pleasure (21***) top pitch is spectacular (you can rap in), the first pitch is now quite overgrown and is not really worth it.
Sunrunner (22**)
The next 3 routes are fairly safe but not for the timid, and are excellent.
'Woodpecker Wall' Variant (22**)
Substance Abuse (24***)
The Dreaming (23***)
Zustieg
The Cathedral is located about half way between 'Lake Catani' and the Horn (at the end of the road). Obviously visible from the road.
The Cathedral/Hump walking track starts from the western side of the road, on the opposite side of the road to a toilet block. There are spaces to park on either side of the road.
Follow the track to reach a signpost at a 'saddle' between The Cathedral (immediately on the right at this point) and The Hump.
The route Twin Cracks follows the twin crack system seen easily from and close to the track (and starting approximately 20 right of the track).
From about 50m short of the saddle (at the third of a series of three hairpin bends) it is easy to scramble down right (looking at the base of the cliff) for the Hair Trigger wall, Sultan and beyond.
An alternative and quicker option for approaching the Maharajah area is to head up from the aforementioned bend in the track to an obvious chasm that separates the main buttress from the eastern pinnacle. A scramble through this brings you out the other side to very close to the start of Huns Don't Cruise and close to the start of Maharajah.
Easiest access to routes such as The Pinch, Sorcerer's Apprentice and routes further left is to head leftward (facing the cliff) from where the track hits the saddle between The Cathedral and The Hump.
1.1.10. The Hump Area 78 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
traditionelles Klettern, Klettern und andere Stile
Lat / Long: -36.758157, 146.787480
Zustieg
Follow The Cathedral/Hump summit walking track past the cathedral.
1.1.11. Buckland Slabs 24 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Alle Klettern
Lat / Long: -36.780461, 146.797630
Beschreibung
Decent length routes on good rock.
Useful Info: See P154 of the V5 Mt 'Buffalo' guide (2006 - VCC) for access and route details. Park at the old 'Buffalo' lodge car park and walk towards Dixons Falls. A GPS would be handy (especially if someone was good enough to note the GPS Co-ordinates here!
Zustieg
1.5hr walk in, mostly flat on a good track, with the last bit a bush bash.
1.1.12. Tatra Inn 25 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Klettern, traditionelles Klettern und Sportklettern
Lat / Long: -36.760956, 146.778630
1.1.13. The Back Wall Area 36 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Klettern, technisches Klettern und traditionelles Klettern
Lat / Long: -36.790021, 146.766818
1.1.14. The Horn Area 105 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
traditionelles Klettern, Klettern und andere Stile
Lat / Long: -36.776019, 146.766710
Beschreibung
The highest place to climb at 'Buffalo' with a good range of excellent routes. Super easy access up the tourist track to the huge lookout.
Useful Info: Best Routes:
Big Fun (15**)
'The Pintle' Left Hand Varient (16**)
Hoi Polloi (16*)
Peroxide Blonde (20**) - would get 3 stars if it was longer.
*Please use the two new carrot bolts to rap into Big Fun/Peroxide Blonde/The Pintle LHV rather than going off the lookout handrails as the rangers will get quite antsy if you do.
*Don't forget bolt plates as almost all the bolts are carrot style (no hangers).
Zustieg
At the end of the road you will find it...
1.1.15. Washout Wall 1 route in Crag
- Summary:
-
Alle Klettern
1.1.16. Cresta Valley 3 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
Alle Bouldern
Lat / Long: -36.771460, 146.781400
Übersicht
Extensive field of boulders with some high quality problems. Just starting to receive attention by some local climbers recently [04/2023]. Help develop this amazing area!
Beschreibung
Huge potential of boulder problems in the big boulder field just below the horn. Easy walk in by taking the trail towards the "Back Wall" or "Dickson's Falls". Problems of all difficulties can be found. Generally very rough rock, so bring your tape with you. Park rangers advice to stay off the wetlands, which will be the swampy patches you can find off the trails.
Einschränkungen
Since park rangers advice to stay off the wetlands, I'd say we focus on the boulders close to the trails, along which there is heaps to discover already anyways. If you want to venture, try to avoid treading through the swamps to help preserve this park please!
Zustieg
Easy walk in by taking the trail off the car park towards the "Back Wall" Area. Boulders can be found along the trails.
Geschichte
In its development. First ascents are getting put up by some local climbers (April 2023).
1.2. Camp Flat 1 route in Crag
- Summary:
-
Alle Bouldern
Lat / Long: -36.853773, 146.859132
Übersicht
Awesome little single problem at Camp Flat, 20 minutes from Bright and right on the campsite's river.
Beschreibung
50 (?) degree overhung wall smattered with jugs on unreasonably good quality rock (For the area anyway)
Zustieg
Driving into the camp (Put 'Camp Flat' in Google Maps), at the river crossing look right, and its ~100m from the crossing on the corner.
Übernachtung
Bright is only 20 minutes away, but the obvious choice is any of the beautiful, free, campsites nearby the climnb
1.3. Beechworth Area 188 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
traditionelles Klettern, Bouldern und andere Stile
Lat / Long: -36.356962, 146.690061
Beschreibung
The area centred on Beechworth and bounded by the Hume Freeway on the northwest, the Alpine Road from Wangaratta to Myrtleford on the southwest, and the road from Albury to Myrtleford (via Yackandandah) on the east. Almost all of the rock is granite and a many of the crags are collections of boulders of varying sizes.
1.3.1. Beechworth Gorge 50 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Alle Bouldern
Lat / Long: -36.353151, 146.678683
Beschreibung
Boulders and quarries located adjacent to Gorge Rd
Zustieg
Enter from the Beechworth-Wodonga Rd end of Gorge Rd for areas A, B and C. Enter at the Powder Magazine (Skidmore Rd) for areas D, E, F, G, H, I, J.
1.3.2. The Precipice 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Alle Klettern
1.3.3. Flat Rock 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Hauptsächlich traditionelles Klettern
Lat / Long: -36.358089, 146.643926
Übersicht
tiny 5-8m crag, hidden in the bushland, overgrown and a bit loose
Beschreibung
As the name describes, flat rock is just that, A very large, flat, granite slab rock. can be easily walked up from any angle. crag is not part of the slab, but hidden in bush land on NE side.
Einschränkungen
some tall grass, follow tracks, and traverse slabs.
Zustieg
boulder problem is on obvious large boulder, on top of slab, more potential possible. the rest of the climbsa are on the NE side of the slabs. Park at the North side fence corner, follow the fence (relatively) for 5 min, and youll find the crag and cave
Übernachtung
plenty of camping around, prob go to Mt Pilot or Buffalo.
Ethik
trad or toprope, not worth the bolts
Geschichte
check the old VIC guides for details on lots of small areas like this.
1.3.4. Mt Pilot 88 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
traditionelles Klettern, Sportklettern und andere Stile
Lat / Long: -36.252220, 146.666647
Beschreibung
Mt Pilot is a granite outcrop roughly halfway between the towns of Chiltern and Beechworth. Rock quality varies, however most of the routes are on good quality rock. The area is popular with locals as a short walk from the carpark offers good views in all directions.
Zustieg
Exit the Hume Freeway at Chiltern and turn towards Beechworth. After about 10 minutes, you'll pass a nursery on the left. At the top of the next hill, turn left on an unsealed track. Follow this to the carpark.
1.3.5. Mt Stanley 39 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
traditionelles Klettern, Sportklettern und Top Roping
Lat / Long: -36.449125, 146.802096
Beschreibung
Mt Stanley consists of a number of granite outcrops that are very similar to Mt Buffalo, although they are mostly quite short. This makes it a great spot to get some practice in for your projects on the mountain! The location of the crag (facing west and above 1000m altitude) means that it can quickly turn very cold, so be prepared for the weather! In winter, it can be snowing or cool with fantastic friction. In summer, it can be boiling hot or refreshingly cool (especially in the morning).
Zustieg
The drive to Mt Stanley is easy if it is dry. However, when it is wet, a few sections are very muddy and require a 4WD.
From Beechworth, drive to Stanley. When you get to the intersection in the middle of Stanley where you can turn right to Myrtleford, go left (Hillsborough Rd). Follow this - shortly after you pass Highgrove Orchard it turns to dirt. The second turn off to the right is Mt Stanley Rd - take this and follow it to the end where you'll see the main tower. To get to Talon Block and Grendel Corner, turn around and drive back about 300m and take the first 4WD track on the left. If you're in a car, park just off the road as this track is 4WD only. Follow it up and over the ridge and then around the corner you'll find the new (2013) comms tower.
1.3.6. The Pinnacles 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
Alle Klettern
1.3.7. Mt Jack 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
Alle Klettern
Lat / Long: -36.497711, 146.900530
1.4. Albury Quarry 26 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sportklettern, Bouldern und andere Stile
Lat / Long: -36.080671, 146.902541
Übersicht
Easy access and close to town. Bring hangers for the routes on the back wall. The ring bolt anchors added in 2017 has made it a good option for training or a quick session.
Beschreibung
Old quarry. Some routes can get pretty dirty but it's worth checking out if you are local.
Zustieg
Park at the end of Riverview Terrace and follow the track 200m to the entry to the quarry. Routes are on the the back and left walls.
Ethik
Anything goes here, after all it's a quarry, but please don't alter existing routes.
1.4.1. Back Wall 12 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Sportklettern, Top Roping und traditionelles Klettern
Lat / Long: -36.080468, 146.902625
Beschreibung
Straight ahead as you enter the quarry.
1.4.2. Quarantine Wall 2 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Alle Bouldern
Lat / Long: -36.080834, 146.902328
Beschreibung
So much choss, good to muck around on bouldering and soloing
Zustieg
Walk in, turn left.
1.4.3. Left wall 6 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Hauptsächlich Sportklettern
Lat / Long: -36.080657, 146.902177
Beschreibung
Steep wall on your left as you enter the quarry.
1.4.4. Ant Slabs 6 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Alle Bouldern
Lat / Long: -36.080971, 146.902718
Beschreibung
The short slab on your right as you enter the quarry.
1.5. Felltimber Creek Crag 106 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Hauptsächlich Bouldern
Lat / Long: -36.128093, 146.824504
Übersicht
A compact bouldering area on the outskirts of Wodonga.
Beschreibung
Felltimber Creek Crag is a collection of granite boulders on the south side of the hill just west of Wodonga. It is a good place to spend an afternoon, with several excellent problems and a large number of worthwhile ones. The problems are also quite varied, from slabs to faces to rooves to cracks. There are also a small number of roped climbs - Where Bovines Fear To Tread and Pimp Daddy Superstar being the highlights.
Zustieg
From Melbourne, take the 1st Wodonga exit (Melbourne Rd). Turn R at the first intersection past the overpass (Moorefield Park Drive). From Sydney, take the 3rd Wodonga exit (Melrose Dr). After crossing the railway line, turn R at the roundabout onto Melbourne Rd. Then take the first L onto Moorefield Park Drive. Once you're on Moorefield Park Drive, follow this to the end (a T intersection) and turn R onto Felltimber Creek Road. Follow this down a hill and over a bridge. About 400m after you pass Ingrams Rd (on the R), there's a carpark. Follow the obvious walking track to the climbing areas (which are on the S side of the hill). The carpark is marked on the street map with an X. The walking track is marked on the satellite map in green, and access to the crags is marked in yellow dashes.
1.5.1. The Citadel 44 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Hauptsächlich Bouldern
Lat / Long: -36.128296, 146.825300
Zustieg
The first area you see up on your R when walking along the track.
1.5.2. The Dairy 62 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Bouldern, Sportklettern und andere Stile
Lat / Long: -36.128249, 146.823943
Beschreibung
This area has more to do than the Citadel, especially with a rope. Problems can be powerful (Big-ass Bovine Style) or technical (Fresian). Where Bovines Fear To Tread is a must-do and has not yet been onsighted!
Zustieg
The second area you see up on your R when walking along the track.
1.6. Mansfield 2 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Alle Klettern
Lat / Long: -37.068660, 146.097777
Beschreibung
Mansfield is a small town with a population of approximately 4400 people in the foothills of the Victorian Alps.
Zustieg
Mansfield is easily accessible from all directions by car via major highways.
Übernachtung
There are a variety of accommodation options in Mansfield, ranging from B&B's to luxury hotels and apartments.
1.6.1. Main Divide Lookout Cliff 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
1.7. Omeo 96 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Hauptsächlich Klettern
Lat / Long: -37.021259, 147.773603
Beschreibung
Omeo is a small town near Mount Hotham in Victoria with a population of approximately 500 people.
Zustieg
It can be easily accessed by car via the Great Alpine Road.
Übernachtung
There is a range of accommodation available in Omeo.
1.7.1. Mount Jaithmathang 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Alle traditionelles Klettern
Beschreibung
Mount Jaithmathang is a granite mountain range in Alpine National Park in Northern Victoria. Its most prominent peak, Mount Jaithmathangs lies at an elevation of 1826 metres above sea level.
1.7.2. Mt Tabletop 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Alle Klettern
Beschreibung
Mount Tabletop is a mountain located in Alpine National Park in Northern Victoria. It is the main attraction of the Mount Tabletop Day Walk, a medium difficulty 3-4 hour return hike.
Zustieg
It can be accessed on the Mount Tabletop Hiking Trail, which is a 12 kilometre, 3-4 hour return hike.
1.7.3. Macfarlane's Lookout 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Alle Klettern
Lat / Long: -36.880000, 147.804312
Beschreibung
Macfarlane's Lookout is a lookout located in Macfarlane Lookout Scenic Reserve near Omeo, in Northern Victoria. Macfarlane's lookout sits at an elevation of 1097 metres above sea level.
Zustieg
Macfarlane's Lookout Scenic Reserve is accessible by car from the nearest town of Omeo.
Übernachtung
A range of accommodation is available in nearby Omeo.
1.7.4. Rams Horn 31 routes in Area
- Summary:
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Hauptsächlich Klettern
Lat / Long: -36.901055, 148.118228
Beschreibung
Rams Horn is a mountain located within Alpine National Park in Northern Victoria. It sits at an elevation of 1626 metres above sea level.
Einschränkungen
It is located within Alpine National Park. Requires high clearance 4WD and experience to access. Track seasonally closed throughout winter from June.
Zustieg
It can be accessed via an unsealed road off the Snowy River Road or via Benambra, Limestone Rd. Look for Rams Horn Track. Requires high clearance 4WD and experience to access. HEMA reports medium grade, National Parks reports double black diamond. Poor weather will degrade access. Short walk from end of track.
Übernachtung
Camp at the beautiful Native Dog Flat campground down the road or Omeo an hour away.
Ethik
It's a NP.
1.7.5. Rams Head Range 11 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Alle Klettern
Beschreibung
The Ramshead Range is a mountain range that makes up part of both the Alpine National Park in Victoria and the Kosciuszko National Park in New South Wales. The range is also part of the Great Dividing Range. The highest point of the Ramshead Range is Mount Twynam, which stands at 2196 metres above sea level.
Einschränkungen
Located in both Alpine National Park and Kosciuszko National Park.
Übernachtung
Camping is available in both of these national parks.
1.7.6. Cobberas Range 43 routes in Area
- Summary:
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Alle Klettern
Beschreibung
The Cobberas Range is a mountain range in Alpine National Park in Northern Victoria. Its highest point is Mount Cobberas No. 1, which stands at 1810 metres above sea level.
Einschränkungen
Located in Alpine National Park
Übernachtung
Camping is available throughout Alpine National Park.
1.8. Corryong 65 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Klettern, traditionelles Klettern und Sportklettern
Lat / Long: -36.134901, 147.649072
Beschreibung
Corryong is a small town in North Eastern Victoria with a population of approximately 1200 people. It lies near the upper reaches of the Murray River.
Übernachtung
A range of accommodation is available in Corryong, with every level of accommodation from caravan parks to a hotel.
1.8.1. Mt Mittamatite 61 routes in Area
- Summary:
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Klettern und traditionelles Klettern
Lat / Long: -36.145110, 147.859948
Beschreibung
Mount Mittamatite is a volcanic plug that sits at an elevation of approximately 1000 metres above sea level. you will see a fire tower inside the locked fenced area
Einschränkungen
requires a moderate clearance car for driving up ranch road, slippery dirt for 20km. use decent track or natural abseil (with caution), minimal bolts on cliff area
Zustieg
from Corryong; follow the Murray Valley HWY/RD towards Towong. continue down MVR for 7km, passing Farrans Lookout, and turn onto Ranch Road. There is a sign for Mt Mittamatite. continue on Ranch road (careful when passing cows) for about 20km, will take at least 25 min to get to the top, (dry weather only) with a moderate clearance car. once at the top, you'll see a locked gate for the fire tower and a small road to the left of the fence. take that for about 500m and you'll reach a clearing, known as the campsite with a picnic table, park here. -36.147768, 147.858996 follow the signs to the lookout (300m) and the crag is below you.
Übernachtung
A small range of accommodation is available in nearby Corryong.
Ethik
Use Natural Pro for abseils or use descent gully. rock seems to be of average quality, any bolting should be thoroughly checked for quality.
1.8.2. Conic Range Rocks 4 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
traditionelles Klettern und Sportklettern
Lat / Long: -36.116623, 147.425643
Übersicht
The state park maintained walking track known as Conic Range Walking tracks ends at a lookout where the crag is located
Beschreibung
A variety granite cliffs up to 35 metres surrounded by numerous large boulders.
Einschränkungen
Easy access with 15 minutes walk from carpark
Zustieg
At Mt Lawson State Park turn off Murray Valley Highway on Firebrace track. Follow track for approximately 10km till arriving at the trailhead carpark for Conic Range walking track
Übernachtung
Koetong Pub the closest facilities
Geschichte
Dhudhuroa are the traditional owners and any signs of early human habitation must be protected. Parks do know of several artefacts in the area, but locations are not made public to protect them from vandalism. Bob Cowan is the earliest known climber who first attempted climbs at this crag
1.9. Buchan 41 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Klettern, traditionelles Klettern und technisches Klettern
Lat / Long: -37.396434, 148.263226
Beschreibung
Buchan is a small town in the East Gippsland Region of Northern Victoria with a population of approximately 400 people.
Zustieg
Access to Buchan is by car via Gelantipy Road from the North, Timbara Road from the West, Bruthen-Buchan Road from the South and the Buchan Orbost Road from the South East.
Übernachtung
There is a small variety of accommodation within the town.
1.9.1. Englishman's Castle 2 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Alle traditionelles Klettern
Beschreibung
Englishman's Castle is a collection of two rocky outcrops near Buchan.
1.9.2. Wave Wall 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
Alle Klettern
1.9.3. Slunt Wall 1 route in Crag
- Summary:
-
Alle Klettern
Lat / Long: -37.505787, 148.212900
Beschreibung
Slunt Wall, also known as Armchair Flat or The Ampitheatre, is a small limestone cliff near Buchan in Victoria.
1.9.4. Buchan Rocks 12 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Alle Klettern
1.9.5. Farmhouse Wall 2 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
traditionelles Klettern und Klettern
Lat / Long: -37.421722, 148.210908
Beschreibung
Farmhouse Wall is a cliff located on private property near Buchan in Northern Victoria.
Zustieg
Access is by car via Shaw's Gulley Road, from which it is a short walk to the base of the cliff.
1.9.6. The Pyramids 12 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
traditionelles Klettern und Klettern
Beschreibung
The Pyramids is a collection of limestone cliffs on private property in Northern Victoria.
Einschränkungen
Located on private property.
1.9.7. Python Wall 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
traditionelles Klettern und Klettern
1.9.8. The Cauldron 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Klettern und technisches Klettern
1.9.9. Balley Hooley Ridge 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
Alle Klettern
1.9.10. Tulloch Ard Gorge 6 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Alle Klettern
Lat / Long: -37.286930, 148.315979
Beschreibung
Tulloch Ard Gorge is a gorge in Snowy River National Park near Buchan in Northern Victoria.
Einschränkungen
The gorge is located in Snowy River National Park.
1.10. Wulgulmerang 14 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Hauptsächlich Klettern
Lat / Long: -37.031805, 148.315676
Beschreibung
Wulgulmerang is a small town in North-Eastern Victoria with a population of around 260 people. The town sits at an elevation of 889 metres above sea level.
Zustieg
Wulgulmerang is accessible by car via the Snowy River Road.
Übernachtung
There is caravan park accommodation in Wulgulmerang.
1.10.1. Little River Gorge 10 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Klettern und traditionelles Klettern
Lat / Long: -37.085441, 148.316328
Übersicht
Climbing in Australia's deepest gorge.
Beschreibung
Little River Gorge is Australia's deepest gorge. It is home to the Little River. It is located in Snowy River National Park.
Einschränkungen
Located in Snowy River National Park.
Zustieg
A 400 metre walking track leads to a lookout at the top of the gorge.
Übernachtung
Camping is available throughout Snowy River National Park.
1.10.2. Hanging Rock 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Alle Klettern
Lat / Long: -37.022866, 148.315885
1.10.3. Ballantyne's Gap 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
Alle Klettern
Lat / Long: -36.975050, 148.312028
Beschreibung
Ballantyne's Gap is located next to Little Mount Hamilton in Snowy River National Park.
Einschränkungen
Located in Snowy River National Park.
1.11. Snobs Creek 9 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Hauptsächlich Bouldern
Lat / Long: -37.268316, 145.875114
Beschreibung
Snobs Creek is located within Snobs Creek Wildlife Reserve in Northeast Victoria.
Einschränkungen
Located in Snobs Creek Wildlife Reserve.
Zustieg
It is easily accessible by car via the Goulburn Valley Highway.
1.11.1. Stevens Cliff 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
Alle Klettern
1.11.2. Snobs Little Boulder 8 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Alle Bouldern
Lat / Long: -37.270707, 145.875050
Beschreibung
Boulder near snobs creek. Southern side (near Theory of Change) is slowly being reclaimed by moss. Likely a couple of difficult unclimbed problems on this section for the enthusiastic local!
1.12. Mt Bogong 17 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Alle Eisklettern
Lat / Long: -36.740332, 147.306702
Beschreibung
Mount Bogong is a 1986 metre high mountain located in Alpine National Park in Northeastern Victoria.
Einschränkungen
Located in Alpine National Park.
Übernachtung
Camping is available at various sites throughout Alpine National Park.
1.12.1. Pollux Outcrop 17 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -36.728107, 147.301874
Beschreibung
Pollux Outcrop is a group of rock buttresses located just below the summit of Mount Bogong. In the winter months, the buttresses provide the opportunity for ice climbing.
Zustieg
Routes are described right to left.
1.13. Mt Buller 0 routes in Crag
Beschreibung
Mount Buller is a picturesque ski town which shares its name with the nearby Mount Buller. The town has a population of approximately 260 people.
Zustieg
The town of Mount Buller can be easily accessed via Mt Buller Road.
Übernachtung
A range of accommodation options are available in the town of Mount Buller.
1.13.1. South Face 0 routes in Crag
Beschreibung
The South Face of Mount Buller.
1.13.2. Western Side 0 routes in Crag
Beschreibung
The Western Face of Mount Buller.
1.14. Gorgeous Crag 33 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Bouldern, Sportklettern und andere Stile
Lat / Long: -36.752597, 147.171102
- Nav to Mount Beauty Info Center and turn down the road directly opposite it. With the electricity switch yard to your left, drive to the end and park near the locked gate. Walk past the locked gate and follow the service road with the creek on your right, until you see signs for the 'Gorge Walk'. Follow those signs till you cross the creek via a suspension bridge.
- Nav to the mountain bike park or to the "Mount Beauty Gorge Walk", park and follow the signs to the Gorge Walk till you cross the creek via a suspension bridge.
- On the other side of the bridge the path to the Gorge bends left. Instead once you step off the bridge, head straight ahead up a difficult 'goat track' till you reach a sign for the Crag. Follow the track, switch backing up the hill. Close to the crag you will reach another sign at a fork in the track. For the "Sunshine Wall" follow the track to the left.
Beschreibung
A small cliff band that is under development by a group of local climbers. When done it will offer 16 - 20 routes, 8-12m high, and 15+ boulder problems spread over three areas. Developed with a big focus on being family friendly and aiding in skill development as well as a fun local crag for arvo summer sessions.
Be sure to bring your swimmers as the Gorge has many great post-climb swimming spots
Zustieg
->STILL UNDER CONSTRUCTION - track is stabilised in many sections but work is not yet completed. <-
FROM INFO CENTER
.
FROM BIG HILL MOUNTAIN BIKE PARK
.
FROM SUSPENSION BRIDGE
1.14.1. Sunshine Wall 14 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Sportklettern, traditionelles Klettern und andere Stile
Lat / Long: -36.752688, 147.171164
Beschreibung
The main wall of the crag. Cops full sun from 11am till 5pm during Summer. STILL UNDER DEVELOPMENT
1.14.2. Blackberry Wall 4 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Alle Bouldern
Lat / Long: -36.752575, 147.171143
Beschreibung
Broken up cliff band below the Sunshine Wall. Contains a variety of Boulder problems with most offering topouts. STILL UNDER DEVELOPMENT
1.14.3. The Oasis 15 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Bouldern, Top Roping und andere Stile
Lat / Long: -36.752641, 147.170746
Beschreibung
A little gully tucked away from the sun and wind. A perfect place for lunch by Hidden Falls or to enjoy the short but pumpy sport climbs. Also has a variety of boulder problems. STILL UNDER DEVELOPMENT
Zustieg
With the Sunshine Wall on your left walk towards the clump of trees nestled within the small canyon, following the zig zag path down to the base.
1.15. Alpine Stones 6 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
Alle Bouldern
Lat / Long: -36.878864, 147.293609
Beschreibung
Cute granite boulders along the Bogong High Plains Road - have a go if you're driving past
Zustieg
With decent visibility you should be able to see the blocks from the road
Ethik
Note this Bouldering area is in a National Park. Destruction of native flora (e.g. lichen) is illegal. This area is alpine and as such it is a threatened area (by climate change) as well as being an area very sensitive to human impact.
Cleaning of boulders in National Parks is illegal - tread very lighty with your impact.
1.16. Fall's Creek 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Alle Bouldern
Lat / Long: -36.862236, 147.278119
Übersicht
Lovely little retaining wall below the first main carpark in Falls Creek. Lots of very short top out problems, as well as a pumpy and interesting traverse.
Beschreibung
More retaining walls may be explored in near future. Lots of potential. Risky in winter.
Einschränkungen
The routes all consist of retaining walls so not suitable for high traffic. Pissing off Parks Victoria not recommended. May result in the next Arapiles. Expect stares from mountain bikers/skiiers.
Zustieg
Drive south along Bogong High Plains Road entering Falls Creek. Main Retaining Wall can be found on the left side of the road just before the Gully Day Carpark.
Übernachtung
Up to your budget, but the Falls Creek Country Club is nice. Spectacular views of said retaining wall.
Ethik
Please see statement Re: Parks Victoria. Rock is somewhat loose. Have fun.
Geschichte
Three bored climbers in the high country - what else would happen?
1.16.1. Main Retaining Wall 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -36.861524, 147.276946
Übersicht
Main wall on left of road next to Gully Day Carpark.