Routen als technisch in North East

The thin crack in the middle of the wall, which widens in the last meter. One carrot bolt just before the awkward topout.

The crack 4m left of Thanksgiving Crack, ending in a bush.

AID REDUCTION: Climbed with a rest only on the rope at grade 22M0 in 1979 by Rod Young (belayed by Mark Moorhead).

P1 (40m - M3): starting on ledge, move up chimney and then easy free moves up ramp. Up thin corner and either: (a) reach around arete to bolt and traverse via flake to crack on left, or (b) continue up corner to carrot bolt near arete and tension traverse to crack system. Up to belay at manky carrot and piton (supplement with good gear at level of piton).

P2 (40m - M2): Up crack and through roof. Follow crack line to a one person stance below a rooflet (2 new bolts and one carrot).

P3 (40m - M2): up to carrot and through roof. Follow crack until it peters out, switching to crack system on left, then back to the right towards the top of the pitch. Up awkwardly to ledge (a short fixed line from ledge belay may be present to help).

P4&5 (14). Easiest way to the top - "an excellent mountaineering challenge" i.e. can be wet and slimy. Alternatively a fixed line can be left from the top abseil station of the DotF descent - padding the edge with a rope protector is recommended.

Start: Start as for Emperor, down and right of the obvious amazing Emperor chimney above.

1. 24m (15) As for Emperor.

2. 30m (21)

3. 40m (- M5)

4. 43m (- M5)

5. 12m (-)

6. 46m (-)

1. 35m (21 M1)

2. 40m (21 M1)

1. 40m (21)

2. 27m (- M5)

3. 24m (-)

4. 21m (-)

5. 43m (-)

1. 46m (23)

2. 21m (-)

3. 24m (- M4)

4. 21m (-)

5. 43m (-)

1. 46m (23)

2. 27m (- M1)

3. 43m (-)

4. 43m (-)

1. 46m (23)

2. 27m (- M1)

3. 57m (- M5)

4. 24m (-)

5. 21m (16) As for 'Ozymandias' p9.

6. 24m (14) As for 'Ozymandias' p10.

Start: Start as for She.

1. 36m (18 M4)

2. 24m (- M5) The M5 grade probably comes from this pitch.

3. 30m (-)

What a way to spend Xmas.

Start: Start as for 'Usurper'.

1. 35m (18 M4) Same as 'Usurper'.

2. 40m (- M4)

3. 20m (- M4) 3? bolts.

4. 29m (- M4)

5. 25m (- M4)

6. 21m (16) As for 'Ozymandias' 2nd last pitch.

7. 24m (14) As for 'Ozymandias' last pitch.

Start: Start at the 4th belay of Magic and Loss (or one pitch higher at the 3rd last belay of Ozymandias).

1. 10m (-)

2. 25m (- M4)

3. 15m (- M4)

4. 20m (- M4)

Start: Start at thin crack 27m R of 'Tyrant', a few metres L of the original's aid bolts.

1. 40m (21)

2. 25m (21)

3. 33m (-)

4. 27m (- M6)

5. 25m (-)

6. 21m (16) As for the 2nd last pitch of 'Ozymandias'

7. 24m (14) As for the last pitch of 'Ozymandias'

Start: A Link up from the 3rd belay of She into the roof section of 'Ozymandias'.

Apart from the pendule from Magic & Loss into She, it's hard to see how this differs from p1 of 'Strange Ritual'.

Start: Start at the 4th belay of She.

Start: Start as for She.

1. 40m (21) As for She.

2. 40m (21 M1)

3. 35m (22)

4. 30m (22) As for the 5th last pitch of 'Ozymandias'.

5. 35m (22) As for the 4th last pitch of 'Ozymandias'.

6. 15m (19) Traverse L as for the 3rd last pitch of 'Ozymandias'.

7. 21m (16) Chimneys as for the 2nd last pitch of 'Ozymandias'.

8. 24m (14) Chimneys as for the last pitch of 'Ozymandias'.

Start: Abseil 50m down R from 'Fuhrer' Ledge to a shallow corner with grass tree and ledge at 12m.

1. 40m (-)

2. 27m (- M5)

3. 35m (20)

4. 8m (-) R to join 'Ozymandias' about 15m above Big Grassy. Finish up the last 5 and a half pitches of 'Ozymandias', or up 'Ozymandias Direct' or whatever else takes your fancy in the vicinity.

Start: Start 6m R of KoHD.

1. 35m (-)

2. 40m (-)

3. 35m (-)

4. 40m (-)

5. 25m (-)

6. 55m (- M8) M9 but the ACA scale ends at M8!

7. 20m (-) As for 'Lord Gumtree'

Start: Start beneath the obvious clean shallow corner blasting up the highest part wall.

1. 25m (- M2) Two bolts off the deck to L-trending slab (might have to dig out some placements!) then up the crack.

2. 35m (- M4) Sustained aiding up the thin corner to a hanging belay on the R wall. Cam hooks are useful, but far from necessary. Take plenty of RPs and wires regardless.

3. 40m (- M4) Continue up the corner, using a mixture of thin and fixed gear. Move left to ledge with tree to belay.

4. 8m (10) This last bit to Big Grassy is best kept as a separate pitch to avoid ridiculous rope drag. Alternatively, finish pitch 3 at the belay at the end of pitch 2 of free version (ledge off to the R with DBB), then take the fourth pitch all the way to Big Grassy.

5. 35m (- M3) More thin gear up the corner above Big Grassy. Take the L line after 20?m (R line is Ozy Direct), then up to DBB at start of amazing corner.

6. 30m (- M2) Up the corner. Belay off to the L.

7. 35m (- M3) Some awkward times lie ahead. Up through the dirty cracks and bulges. Finish at semi-hanging TBB.

8. 15m (- M2) Traverse L to ledge.

9. 20m (14) Chimneys. Have fun with the haul sack if you brought one.

10. 25m (10) More chimneys. You will be loving your pig even more by the end!

Start beneath the massive corner blasting up the start of the highest part of the wall.

Bivy options: There are a few decent spots around the base. Big Grassy (which is not flat by any means) and the small flattish ledge 8m below are the most luxurious bivvy options on the route. The fixed hangers at the end of pitch 6 and The Gledhill Bivvy at the end of pitch 8 offer waterproof spots for a portaledge. Gledhill and Big Grassy also have hammock anchors.

1. 25m (M2) Slime Corner. Two bolts off the deck (Deck potential, often stick-clipped) to L-trending slab with slime-filled corner (might have to dig out some placements!) then up the crack. To DBB on a flake. It's possible to link 1 and 2.

2. 35m (M4) Big Corner part 1. Sustained aiding on thin pin scars up the corner to a hanging belay on the R wall. If you're struggling, imagine freeing it!

3. 40m (M4) Big Corner part 2. More pin scars up the same corner, using a mixture of thin and fixed gear. Swing left to small tree and ledge to trad belay in corner on the left. Typically linked with pitch 4 (better for hauling) by back-cleaning most of pitch 4, otherwise rope drag will be ludicrous.

4. 8m (10) Corner hand crack and tricky flop onto Big Grassy. Alternatively, finish pitch 3 at the belay at the end of pitch 2 of free version (ledge off to the R with DBB), then take the fourth pitch all the way to Big Grassy.

5. 35m (M3) More thin gear up the corner above Big Grassy. Take the left corner line after the roof at 25m to hanging DBB for the "Ozymandias Variant M2"/"Ozymandias direct(free version) or the less popular right line which is part of the original Ozymandias Direct line.

6. -Option A 30m (M2) "Ozymandias Variant M2"/"Ozymandias direct(free version)" Up the beautiful corner (finger crack layback goes free at 22), at double carrots head right past two fixed hangers to a hanging triple bolt belay on the arete under the Great Roof. Option B. 25m (M4) Ozymandias Direct - follow corner on RPs, wires, tie offs to hanging triple bolt belay. Unpopular and vegetated.

7. 37m (M4) The Roof. New and old carrots lead to the roof and then up the pretty orange corner, which gets thinner as you go up. Hanging belay. (the Gledhill Bivvy).

8. 30m (M3) The Fang. Head R on decaying carrots then up steep crack past the Fang and beyond. Lots of steep awkward caving up to a final hand and fist crack. Take the big gear (up to #5) and watch out for the sharp edge at the start.

9. 40m (10 M2) Continue up crack to an ugly carrot and a slab move leading right to the base of an easy chimney (optional DBB) make sure to move the haul line left of the trees before entering the chimney. Then head up to big terrace with plaque. DBB is way around left.

10. 15m (M3) Steep offwidth (BD C4 #4 and #5s) with an initial seam on the left wall and a few dodgy carrots higher up. Finish on lookout.

HB

M9 but the ACA scale doesn't go that far.

Start: Start at the 6th belay of Ozy.

Start: Start as for Ozy.

1. 24m (- M2) As for Ozy.

2. 40m (- M5)

3. 40m (- M3)

4. 40m (- M4)

5. 25m (- M6) The puny flake out the massive roof. M7 if done clean.

6. 20m (- M5)

7. 30m (- M3) 27 if done as the finish to 'Lord Gumtree' free.

8. 15m (-) As for 'Lord Gumtree'.

Start: Start at the 6th belay of Ozy.

1. 22m (12 M3)

2. 25m (22)

3. 12m (20)

4. 12m (20) Then finish up 'Strange Ritual' or 'Lord Gumtree'.

Start: Start at the top of p1 of Ozy.

1. 35m (- M7) As for 'Lord Gumtree' for 10m then the crack on the R.

2. 50m (- M7) Crack to rejoin 'Lord Gumtree'. 'Escape' off R up the long death scramble between Ozy Buttress and Mother Buttress, or finish up pitches 5-10 of 'Lord Gumtree'.

Start as for Ozy.

1. 24m (- M2) As for Ozy.

2. 27m (- M3)

3. 18m (- M4)

4. 30m (- M6)

5. 40m (- M7)

6. 40m (- M5)

7. 40m (- M4)

8. 30m (- M3)

9. 40m (18) There is a bolted belay (not shown in topo) at the bush about 12m below the plaque, if you wish to split this pitch in two.

10. 15m (- M3) The obvious offwidth corner above the plaque.

HB

The longest hard-ish route on the plateau, with pitch grades of 16, 23, 25 M1, 20, 21, 19, easy, 24, 22, 21, 22, ?, 13. Warning!!! Pitches 2 and 3 have a few dangerous (brittle) screw-in ring bolts which need to be replaced! Access: either scramble down, down, down Queen Vic Gully to the foot of the buttress, or make the many abseils required down the route (it the latter option is chosen, realise that a bit further than half way down there is notch behind the lower of the two pinnacles that are major features of this buttress. A short roped scramble/climb up the back of tis lower pinnacle is required before the abseiling can be continued down the route to the bottom). Route is best described and seen by the route description and photo-topo on pp112 and 113 respectively of the 2006 guidebook

From the belay at the top of pitch one on Damning My Soul step L, and up thin vertical weathered seam to top. Clean aid using RPs and hand placed Peckers.

From the belay at the top of pitch one on Damning My Soul, continue straight up headwall on hooks. The line is slightly left of the flake located above the continuation P2 starting crack of DMS, and 3m R of Division of Labour. No pro worth having for the 7 or 8 run-out hook moves above... and that is why Talon-hooks are indeed your friends.

The final wall is unlikely to go free. Aid the corner on the right edge of the summit block to the roof. Move right and up thin crack. Some old bolts.

This route is about 3m left of John's Arete. Two moves of aid on bolts, then climb the finger/hand crack to the top.

Delicate hooking up centre of face until about half height, then fine wires in incipient seam. The increasing size of the seam towards the top is offset by the increasing crumbliness.