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Bakery Wall Klettern 30 Routen in Felswand

  • Bewertungskontext: AU
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Saisonalität

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Beschreibung

The Bakery Wall is probably the most popular area at Mt Pilot, and is also home to many of the best climbs.The rock is generally of very good quality, although the crystal size varies considerably along the length of the wall. The wall has a northerly aspect, which means it bakes in summer (go to Buffalo instead) - pick a cool, dry day from early autumn to spring for the best friction.

Climbs are described right to left facing the cliff.

Zustieg

From the fire tower, head W across the dome and through heavy brush to another open area on the N side of the ridge (a trail used to be established but it was overgrown due to disuse after the 2003 fires). From here, head diagonally uphill and W to the start of a well-established trail which will lead you to the top of the cliff. Walk down on the western end of the cliff.

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Routen

Route(n) hinzufügen Topo hinzufügen Neu sortieren Stapelbearbeitung Konvert. Grade
Schwierigkeitsgrad Route
1
21 ★ The Happy Baker Sport 8m, 2

The first route on the wall, start on ledge behind cypress. Difficult moves past 2 FHs to rings.

Erstbegehung: Paul Martin & John Lewis

2
18 ★★ Life In The Fat Lane Sport 9m, 2

Start 2m L of The Happy Baker. Up a mini arete to a sloping ledge, and then continue past horizontal breaks. 2FHs to rings.

Erstbegehung: Paul Martin & John Lewis

3
16 ★ My Lust For Crust Sport 6m, 2

The mini-arete on the boulder opposite Life In The Fat Lane. Although very short, this is a great warm-up, or beginner's lead. 2 FHs.

Erstbegehung: Paul Martin & John Lewis

The next 2 routes are just around the corner from My Lust For Crust on the short orange wall.

5
23 Rhinoceros Breath Traditionell 8m

Nice moves up the pockets/scoops to the gripping finger crack. Dodgy rock.

Erstbegehung: Matt Roper & Luke Fitridge, 1998

6
17 John's Other Arete Traditionell 8m

The arete that forms the right edge of the chimney to the left of Rhinocerous Breath

Erstbegehung: John Schwerdfeger

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7
16 ★★ Solo Man Traditionell 12m

Probably the first route here. Excellent protection. The obvious finger/hand crack through a small overhang.

8
25 ★★★ Doughboy Sport 20m, 4

The first closed seam left of the small cave. Hard moves lead to hole and jugs. Lurch left to finger crack with one more hard move at the top. 4 FHs. The top of the crack may need brushing after rain.

Erstbegehung: Paul Martin & Ryan Butler, 1997

9
26 Doughboy Direct Finish Sport 25m, 6

Start as for Doughboy. At jugs continue up the line to where the seam peters out. Head out R (crux) on tiny crimps and then up. 6 FHs.

Erstbegehung: Robert Cowan, 2000

10
24 ★★★ Doughgirl Sport 20m, 4

The bolted face left of Doughboy. Hard face moves lead to the finger crack which may need brushing. 3 BRs, 1 FH.

Erstbegehung: Paul Martin & Kurt Saggers, 1997

11
16 ★ Soot Traditionell 17m

The chimney. Bring BIG gear, otherwise go on an adventure and use the chockstones for pro.

Erstbegehung: Wayne Webb & Derek Rempe

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12
22 ★★ Chicken Salad Roll Sport 17m, 5

Recently re-bolted (2014). Climb the left arete of "Soot" past 3 RB's, execute the thought-provoking mantle to gain 4th RB, then surmount final steepness clipping 5th RB a couple of metres above the lip (out of sight from the ground). Head left to Double Ring lower-off.

Erstbegehung: Matt Roper & Robert Cowan

13
22 The Bakery Connection Gemischt trad 20m, 3

Climb Chicken Salad Roll to 3rd BR. Hard move out left to horizontal crack (takes gear), and up to jugs.

Erstbegehung: Paul Martin & John Lewis

14
23 Pass The Mustard Gemischt trad 20m, 3

The tiny seam to the left of Chicken Salad Roll. Very technical. Uses Chicken Salad Roll's BRs and a few RPs, exit up The Bakery Connection.

Erste freie Begeh.: Robert Cowan, 2000

Erstbegehung: Ryan Butler (w. aid), 2000

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15
21 ★★★ Beechworth Bakery Traditionell 20m

Probably the best route at Mt Pilot. The finger-crack/flake a few metres L of Chicken Salad Roll.

Erstbegehung: Robert Cowan & Matt Roper

16
15 ★ Breakfast at the Ponderosa Traditionell 15m

The next big crack 2m L of Beechworth Bakery. Can be protected fairly well.

17
21 Rumball Delight Gemischt trad 20m, 1

Climb the thin crack left of Breakfast At The Ponderosa on natural gear to a bolt near the top.

Erstbegehung: John Schwerdfeger & Robert Cowan, 2001

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18
17 ★★ Wissywoo Traditionell 20m

Off-width crack forming right side of John's Arete to ceiling bulge, then turn bulge by face on right. You can clip the BRs on John's Arete until some natural pro, then run it out to the top.

Erstbegehung: Rod Kerr, Damian Baker & Melissa Baker, 2000

19
23 John's Arete Sport 20m, 3

The lowish angled bolted arete past 3 BR's, can us some large gear to protect top out. Hard to avoid the crack.

Erstbegehung: John Schwerdfeger, 2000

20
21 M1 Stump Jumper Technisch

This route is about 3m left of John's Arete. Two moves of aid on bolts, then climb the finger/hand crack to the top.

Erstbegehung: Robert Cowan

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21
16 ★ Smoke Stack Toprope 12m

About 10m past stumper jumper and 5m before the fatties is an obvious offwidth/squeeze chimney which goes up about 10m and then trends right, finishing with a short fist size crack. Would require very large pro to lead.

Erstbegehung: Craig Julian & Damien, 28 Jul 2019

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22
17 ★ Big Fatty Sport 8m, 3

The cool-looking right-hand line on suspect-looking (but surprisingly solid) rock. Straight up past 3RB's to double ring lower-off

Erstbegehung: Paul Martin & John Lewis, 1997

23
17 ★ Little Fatty Sport 8m, 2

The left-hand line is also not too bad. Good gear down low. 1 FH to rings.

Erstbegehung: Paul Martin & John Lewis, 1997

24
20 ★ Goannas In The Bakery Gemischt trad 15m, 1

Excellent and somewhat sustained climbing on the obvious half-height horizontal flake. At the end of the flake, head left for a couple of moves (crux - take RPs), then straight up into dyke city. 1 BR.

Erstbegehung: Paul Martin & Nick Danne

25
M6 So, This is Aid Climbing? Technisch 20m

Delicate hooking up centre of face until about half height, then fine wires in incipient seam. The increasing size of the seam towards the top is offset by the increasing crumbliness.

Erstbegehung: Top Roped by Damian Baker & Rod Kerr, 2000

26
22 Rocky Road Gemischt trad 20m, 3

This route starts in the middle of the main face at a weakness with heaps of dyke rock. Climb the slab to the rightward sickle crack and follow it to the top. 3 BRs.

Erstbegehung: Bob Cowan & John Schwerdfeger

27
22 ★ Croissant Gemischt trad 20m, 6

Start as for Rocky Road, only blast your way straight up the middle of the face passing 6 BRs on your way to glory!

Erstbegehung: Bob Cowan & John Schwerdfeger

28
20 Crossant Variant Finish Traditionell 20m

Start as for Rocky Road. Follow the leftward crack to the top on bad gear.

Erstbegehung: Bob Cowan & John Schwerdfeger

29
23 ★ Apple Scroll Gemischt trad 20m, 4

The low angled black slab behind the big dead tree. Excellent climbing past 3 BRs leads to huge jugs at the horizontal/ledge (2x#1 SLCDs). Continue past another BR to the top.

Erstbegehung: Bob Cowan & co.

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30
18 Iguana Traditionell 17m

The very coarse finger crack to the left of Apple Scroll. Heads right under bulges and up. Tape up!

Erstbegehung: Bob Cowan & co.

31
20 Apple Crumble Gemischt trad 20m, 3

Aptly named. On the next separate cliff-line is a black slab capped by a big flattish boulder. This route starts on the right-hand end at all the edges and just left of the chossy chimney. 3 BRs lead to a crack (#1 SLCD) in the overhang, pull through this and head on up.

Erstbegehung: Matt Roper & Bob Cowan

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Selected Guidebooks mehr Verbergen

Sublimb Climbs

Autor(en): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Datum: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Kaufen
ⓘ
RockGUIDE: Victoria

Autor(en): Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest

Datum: 1994

ISBN: 0646167308

A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo

Kaufen
ⓘ

Unterkünfte in der Nähe mehr Verbergen

Inhalt teilen

Nahegelegene Klassiker

17 ★ Big Fatty
21 ★★★ Beechworth Bakery
24 ★★★ Doughgirl

Fotos

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