Angels' Buttress Klettern 10 Routen in Felswand

The dark side of the angel. First ascent by Digby Gotts and Peter Watling in about 1971 in 5 pitches. Two cruxes, the second pitch being about 180 feet jam crack for arms and boots, and the 4th being a 90 degree corner of about 30 feet. This one was originally led unprotected, but I believe a bolt has been placed to help a bit.

Possibly the best easy crack route in Australia with superb jamming on every pitch.

Best done as 5 or so pitches but can be done in as many as 8 with some silly hanging belays. Most of the pitches described below could be split at about halfway depending on your gear etc.

1. 50m (17) Scramble up blocks and into steep jam crack. Gloriously up this until it turns slabby after a short while and enjoy yourself all the way up to the comfortable ledge at about 50m. Original tree belay lower down fell out.

2. 40m (16) Awkward move off belay then continue up to ledge where the crack peters out (possible belay). Slab excitingly left to next crack system and up to awkward semi hanging belay stance where the crack widens to make a pod.

3. 50m (17) Scramble over belayer and climb up crack and through the bulge. Step delicately right into new crack system as the left one vanishes and enjoy some brilliant easy jamming for 20m or so to some tricky final moves to gain comfy belay ledge.

4. 45m (17) Up and into tight but easy chimney. Step across ledge and into next corner/chimney feature. Up this with some effort to wide crack on right. Embrace your inner thrutcher and force your way up this until the very end where a few top out options present themselves. Belay on very comfy ledge. From this ledge scramble down a short corner to another large ledge. This is easy and a rope isn’t required but is recommended

5. 45m (10) Up shit scrubby crack to do battle with the tree and then trend left to some weird steep jugs in a crack feature and wander up to the top, all the while grinning at the true excellence of the route you have just completed.

The exit starts off straightforward but becomes tricky. Follow the initial path and essentially head towards the major corner of Caligula, doing some easy scrambling to get there. Once you spy Burston’s Crevasse you know it’s the correct way to go, so if your route doesn’t look right you’ve probably gone the wrong way.

Very runout first pitch to WAFTT. Up flaring fist crack for 10m then step left onto face and run out the rest of the pitch on the slabs. Very bold lead.