Melbourne and Surrounds Guide

Summary:

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Saisonalität

Bouldern, traditionelles Klettern und andere Stile

Lat / Long: -37.696039, 144.774630

Summary:

Bouldern, Sportklettern und andere Stile

Lat / Long: -37.870106, 145.045182

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -37.832258, 145.002235

Übersicht

Well maintained urban bouldering wall. Dry in the rain, lit up at night. And it's free!

Beschreibung

Intro: The info below comes from the sign near wall 1 and the document at http://www.vicclimb.org.au/includes/file.php?id=78 for more info. (Reproduced here with permission).
Etiquette: Give way to climbers already on the wall. If someone is climbing be sure to wait until they've passed the section of wall you wish to use before you start to climb.

Do not climb with bare feet.

Safe climbers are happy climbers

Be aware of other climbers around you and keep clear when not climbing
Do not climb the walls on your own at night
Do not climb onto the top of the walls
Park your bike well away from the climbing mats
Always use a spotter

Working together

The beginning of the bouldering walls

The Burnley Bouldering Walls are the results of partnerships, community commitment and a desire to turn what was otherwise an unused site into something more. Over 130 volunteers from the climbing community worked together with CityLink, Parks Victoria and the Victorian Climbing Club, supported by the donation of goods and services from several local businesses. The walls were constructed over a four month period thanks to the tireless efforts of the volunteers and supporting organisations.

If you have any suggestions or would like to report a damaged, missing or spinning hold, please use the chalk board or email burnleybouldering@vicclimb.org.au.

Looking after the reserve: The Burnley Bouldering Walls and surrounding McConchie Reserve are here for your enjoyment. You can help keep the reserve healthy and ensure the bouldering walls continue to be an enjoyable experience by following these simple guidelines

Do not add or remove holds from the walls
Take your rubbish home with you
Keep your dog on a leash at all times
Clean up after your pets
All native plants and animals in the reserve are protected and must not be disturbed. Do not remove or introduce plants or animals to the reserve.

For more information about McConchie Reserve, contact the Parks Victoria Information Centre on 13 19 63 or visit: www.parkweb.vic.gov.au

Other

Toilets:: The nearest public toilets are about a 5 minute walk located in Barkly Gardens in Mary St, near the corner of Barkly Avenue.
Food & Fuel:: The nearest food stores and petrol station are up on Swan Street which is only a 2min drive or a 10min walk. There is also a servo for fuel or snacks out on Church Street which is a similar distance away. The Swan Hotel on the corner of Church and Swan Streets is about your closest venue for a post-session pint.
Public Telephone:: The nearest public telephone is at 596 Church Street.

In case of emergency

In an emergency please dial 000 and specify your location as McConchie Reserve. Access is via the southern end of Mary St, Richmond. Melway Reference 2M 2B. The nearest public telephone is at 596 Church St.

Zustieg

General Location

The Bouldering walls are located under the CityLink / Monash Freeway where it runs parallel to the Yarra in Burnley (near Richmond), approximately 2km from Melbourne CBD. A detailed location map is on the following page. The Melways reference is 2M 2B

By Car

From Swan Street Richmond, turn into Coppin St on the KFC side of the road. Go to the end and turn left into Barkly Avenue. Pass through the Parks Victoria entranceway and park you vehicle. Wander down the gravel driveway towards the river, turn right and walk across the floating pontoon bridge, and after approximately 100m you're there!

By Bicycle

Follow the Yarra Trail to Burnley. When you find yourself opposite Herring Island, and in between Coppin St and Mary St on the map, you're there. The obvious place to park you bike is against the wire fence. If this isn’t possible then please use common sense and make sure it’s a safe distance back from the walls and out of peoples way.

By Tram (Tram 78 along Church St gets you the closest)

Tram 78:: Get off as close as possible to the intersection of Church St and Yorkshire St. Walk east along Yorkshire St in the direction of Mary St. Turn right into Mary St , walk through the Pedestrian subway and turn left when you hit the river. Walk for 200m or so and you're there.
Tram 70:: Head along Swan St Richmond and get off at the intersection of Swan St and Coppin St. Turn left at the end into Barkly Ave, and go through the Parks Vic entranceway. Walk down the gravel driveway and turn right when you hit the river. Walk across the floating pontoon bridge and Burnley is on your right.

By Train

Take the train to Burnley station (The following lines will take you there: Lilydale, Belgrave, & Glen Waverley.) Walk along Madden Grove in the direction of Melbourne CBD. Turn left into Rooney St. at the dogleg in the road, head left through the Parks Victoria entrance gates. Wander down the gravel driveway towards the river, turn right and walk across the floating pontoon bridge, and after approximately 100m you're there!

Geschichte

In 1993, Chris Shepherd conceived the idea of having a long traverse wall near the CBD. The wall became very famous for its pumpy line. In 2003, risk management concerns highlighted the need for the route to be removed. Transurban (manager of CityLink) offered to sponsor the construction of a new facility, and Parks Victoria offered the location; inside McConchie Reserve in Burnley. A Burnley Project Manager position on the VCC (Victorian Climbing Club) committee was created to oversee the project, and a project team was assembled to commence the planning process.

The VCC Burnley Project Manager rallied the climbing community to create a series of construction teams, leveraging skills climbers had developed in their day jobs. Construction began on January 31st, 2006, and the first routes appeared on April 29th, 2006. Regular internet posts on progress were viewed by other organisations, which came forward and offered their support. Four months and more than 130 volunteers later, the three walls were opened to the public.

Burnley had a vibrant scene, attracting large numbers of visitors at all times of the day and on any given day of the week. Since the original donations that were vital to get the project off the ground, Burnley has continued to receive support in terms of time, funding and materials. In 2008 all three walls were re-set with new routes, greatly assisted by an additional community grant from Parks Victoria.

Almost exactly 4 years later, on the 27thApril 2010, the walls were stripped of routes and the area around them was closed while strengthening works were carried out on the beams and piers supporting the freeway.

On the 30thof July 2011, works on the freeway supports were finalised and the walls reset. With all new problems (and new lights for those evening sessions) we hope that Burnley once again becomes a hub of the climbing community.

During 2013 all three walls were remodeled with volumes added. A majority of the routes are now up problems from a sit start, though there are still one or two traverses.

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -37.832427, 145.006123

Übersicht

A collection of roadside boulders on the east side of Como North Park.

Beschreibung

Carved out of the hill that Como Park North sits in lies a collection of fragile sandstone boulders with some sketchy landing zones very close to the road.

Einschränkungen

Be weary of road traffic.

Zustieg

Park on the west side of Como Park North and walk around to the east side to Williams Road near the Yarra.

Ethik

Bouldering on some fragile sandstone so be careful not to chip

Geschichte

Discovered during the Melbourne lockdown of 2021, no know history prior to discovery.

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -37.755168, 144.880960

Beschreibung

The Lily Street boulders comprises of two squat Basalt blocks sitting above the Maribyrnong river.

The location consists of one short overhanging face with arete on its left side and one long overhanging nose.

Every possible combination / elimination was done back in the 90's - I recall mentioned eliminations up to V8-10 were climbed.

The blocks have been improved in November 2016 by removing a layer of soil below the boulders, mostly from underneath the nose.

Take grades listed as very loose estimates.

Zustieg

Park at the end of Lily street, Essendon West. Walk 110 metres west along the Maribyrnong river trail to a viewing area fenced by bluestone blocks. The boulders are easily visible when looking South West from this viewing area.

Step over the bluestone wall at its Western end and follow a rough path another 50 metres or so till above the blocks. Now head carefully down through the long grass to the blocks below.

Watch out for snakes!

Geschichte

Discovered and made public with much fanfare at the Mill climbing gym back in the 90's including photos and topo guide posted on the notice board.

Looking through my notes, possible developer was Darren who worked at Bogong Equipment at the time.

*Hopefully someone from back then might know Darren or have made a copy and would know the name given to these blocks?

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -37.799178, 145.001227

Übersicht

If you like a glue-up, this place is awesome.

Beschreibung

Highball bouldering on cemented in rock holds.

Zustieg

Bike/walk path from Turner St down to the Yarra river

Geschichte

More information can be found at http://www.chockstone.org/Melbourne/Melbourne.htm

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -37.800756, 145.003591

Beschreibung

Single rock glue-in route

Übersicht

Small and fairly new bouldering wall with great holds

Beschreibung

Artificial bouldering wall provided by the council with a number of different grades, good for beginners and experts, not too busy

Zustieg

Public transport or car parking on the street or just above the wall to the West

Summary:

Bouldern und Klettern

Lat / Long: -37.820096, 145.015274

Beschreibung

Eight bluestone pillars; four on each side of the river.

Not wholly inspiring, but it might be worth looking sideways as you speed by on your bike.

Zustieg

BIKE and FOOT: Approach via the Yarra Cycle Trail.

CAR: Park at Creswick Reserve (East side) or one of the small streets of Park Avenue (West side).

Summary:

Hauptsächlich Bouldern

Lat / Long: -37.825903, 145.016945

Beschreibung

This little overpass was THE place to train for 40+ years before climbing gyms. The area's notorious for its crimpers - so warm up! There's a few good traverses and climbs.

Beware of the traffic, both cars and bikes.

Zustieg

BIKE and FOOT: Approach via the cycling trail that runs along the Yarra River.

CAR: Best to park somewhere along the side streets off Yarra Boulevard (e.g. Park Grove) or find a spot at the Melbourne University's Burnley Campus.

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -37.830329, 145.012568

Beschreibung

Glue-in traverse for about 20 meters along foot/bike path

Zustieg

Along the Capital City Trail. Enter from Yarra Boulevard as you walk beside the freeway heading west.

Ethik

Be careful of pedestrians and cyclists

Summary:

Hauptsächlich Bouldern

Lat / Long: -37.759938, 145.004725

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -37.784486, 145.065169

Beschreibung

Glue-up traverse underpass at Musca Street Reserve, North Balwyn

Zustieg

Bike along Koonung creek trail towards Eastern Freeway underpass

Übersicht

Southern retaining/noise-abatement wall along the Eastern Freeway, suitable for bouldering/training.

Beschreibung

The wall is up to about 8+m high and consists of irregularly shaped haphazard stones and mortar. Part of the area under the wall is a well tended garden so it would be best not to walk through that part.

Zustieg

You could park near the northern end of Slater or Bridgeford Avenues but it is probably best to park at Slater Reserve and make the short walk east along the Koonung Creek Trail to the wall.

Geschichte

No activity to date.

Beschreibung

Section of the Eastern Freeway sound barrier facing out on to Koonung Creek Trail. The 'routes' are extensive as your imagination, with most holds either being vertical pinches or 2/3 finger crimps. There's a similar style wall which runs for a few hundred metres along the trail, but the height varies quite a bit, with the lowest sections being 4-5 metres. Top out anywhere for a prime view of suburbia.

Zustieg

The best section is about 150m west down the track from the Middleborough Rd turnoff on to the freeway.

Geschichte

COVID 2020 - Things get desperate in the burbs when gyms are closed.

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -37.733599, 144.847771

Beschreibung

Roadside basalt columns up to 5m tall against steep hillside. Conveniently located in Melbourne's Northwest. Easy climbing, probably nothing over V2. Lots of cracks to practice jamming or gear placements. Sit-starts can make most easy routes at least slightly more interesting.

Zustieg

Enter park from Brimbank Rd. After a few hundred meters, tops of rocks should be visible downhill to the right.

On weekends, convenient parking can be located at a small building off to the left after entering through the Brimbank Park gates. The boulders are essentially straight towards the gully from the carpark. Once you reach the path, look down, and you will see very obvious boulders.

Geschichte

History unknown before 2012. Then, it was found by accident while on a lunchbreak.

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -37.677052, 144.790307

Übersicht

Sydenham Park bouldering

Beschreibung

Sydenham Park offers natural and clean basalt edges 3-5m tall offering a good range of crack, face and slab problems up to V5. The rock is generally very clean, but with all less frequented areas there may be some loose rock.

It's is conveniently located in Melbourne's Northwest, just off the Calder Freeway.

Einschränkungen

The closest car park to the crag is the Keilor Public Golf Course. Note its gates close at 8pm in summer and 6pm in winter.

See the following link for opening times: https://www.keilorgolf.com.au/

Zustieg

The closest carpark to the crag is the Keilor Golf Course, but beware that it currently closes at 8pm in the summer and 6pm in the winter.

Best to confirm current opening times: https://www.keilorgolf.com.au/

The crag is now accessed via a new public walking track added the Brimbank city council, the entry to which is here: https://maps.app.goo.gl/87kue4zm3e831qb19.

Sydenham Park - SydenhamParkCragMap.jpg

Exit the Calder Fwy at Kings Road and cross to the north side of the freeway. Drive down Grogan Road, turn onto Turnley Pkway and park at the golf course.

Walk back up Turnley Pkway and on Kings Road there will be the entrance to Sydenham Park. Walk down this track to the Keilor and Districts Model Aircraft Society.

The West Wall is located by a cairn set back in the grass at the hairpin bend just past the buildings.

The East Wall is further along this track and marked by a cairn just before a power pole.

Ethik

No bolting and no chipping.

If you disagree with any grades or description, do not unilaterally change them. Instead add a comment to the route.

Geschichte

This cliff was re-discovered by Tim Peterson during the Melbourne 2021 Covid lockdowns when movement was restricted to within 15km of home. He was the first to make it public.

Others had previously explored and developed the walls over the previous years.

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -37.806042, 144.898426

Übersicht

Bluestone rail bridge with three long traverses, all crimpy.

Beschreibung

This small rail bridge over Pilgrim St / Nicholson St, Footscray, has three bluestone traverse walls. All are crimpy and adequately clean.

Beware of the traffic, both cars and bikes. The westerly wall is very close to the road and bike lane. The easterly wall has a barrier between the road and footpath, however the footpath is very narrow and busy around school start/end times.

Zustieg

CAR: best to park on Nicholson St. Parking fees apply.

Geschichte

The bridge was a regular spot for a few dedicated locals before gyms; and was a great option during the covid lockdowns. There's no known record of first accents.

Übersicht

City convenient bouldering

Beschreibung

Bluestone edge

Einschränkungen

Keep as low a profile as possible. No access arrangements.

Zustieg

Top Secret

Geschichte

Nothing new here but very much under the radar so no public records.

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -37.903535, 144.654372

Beschreibung

Werribee Bluestone Super Crag (WBSC) is the premier waterfront bouldering area on the wrong side of the West Gate.

Offering flat, grassy landings, this place is perfect for beginners to get out of the gym and learn to be better.

All the walls are just on the easy side of vertical, the holds are Bomber, and with eliminates, you can make it as easy or as hard as you want.

Problems can be climbed up, or you can traverse each column. Feel free to set your own problems and PM me the details, I’ll add it if you don’t have permission. I’ve labeled each column with a chalked number, and the problems that have been set have their start holds marked, and climb numbered.

Dogs are allowed, and there is a great swimming hole for them under 5mins walk. Please beware there may be snakes around in warmer weather, so keep an eye out.

WBSC has sun coverage, and you can use the Hungry Jacks toilets.

Zustieg

Park in the Hungry Jacks Parking lot, located at 148 Watton Street, Werribee. Walk down the grassy field to the Bridge.

Geschichte

The Werribee river is a beautiful place, please respect it.

Information on the original inhabitants:

http://werribeeriver.org.au/history/original-inhabitants

http://www.wyndhamhistory.net.au/items/show/1528

Summary:

Alle Top Roping

Lat / Long: -37.741954, 145.220555

Übersicht

Small sandstone wall, all routes suitable for top roping, some for highball bouldering in dry conditions.

Beschreibung

Nice little sandstone slab, about 15m tall at highest point. Easy access, and the only notable piece of rock in this area! Suitable for top roping, and highball bouldering on some routes. The wall is quite wet after rain, especially on the right hand side, and takes a good week to dry. This area is popular with walkers, so expect to be watched!

Einschränkungen

Permit required - call 13 1963 and ask to be put through to the ranger for Warrandyte State Park, and they should be able to email it to you.

Zustieg

Park on Whipstick Gully Rd, in either of the two carparks, follow the road about 100m on foot. The quarry is on your left just past the metal gate, next to the main walking track.

Ethik

No bolting, leave it as you find it. There is a constant stream of casual bushwalkers past this crag, so respect is extra important.

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -38.007576, 145.083537

Beschreibung

Please use minimal chalk and be considerate to general public, DO NOT CLIMB here if club is in use.

Walls are tesselated concrete tiles, there are a variety of bouldering routes on slab, vertical walls and overhanging on small slopey crimps. Area currently has no traffic, access might become an issue if climbers aren't considerate of club.

Zustieg

Approach is 5 mins from beach road at Mordialloc Lifesaving Club.

Geschichte

Building has been rebuilt and renovated extensively in the last couple of years.

Summary:

Alle Deep Water Soloing

Lat / Long: -37.996127, 145.037939

Beschreibung

Table Rock point is located just southwest of the 1st Beaumaris Sea Scout Boat Shed and offers a fun collection of short DWS problems and one long water level traverse that can be broken down into sections.

The rock is extremely soft sandstone, so be prepared for friable holds and the inevitable scrapes. Best to check the water depth underneath the climbs before starting as it varies considerably. The water is ~1.5m deep under the main wall but gets progressively shallower heading south east.

The point is an enjoyable spot to spend an hour or two on a hot day. Ideally bring snorkeling gear to explore the marine park that surrounds the point, as the climbing is limited.

There is a toilet block located on the left between the point and boat shed.

Zustieg

Park in Rennison Street and carefully cross the busy Beach Road. Follow the bush track opposite the short distance south to the point.

Geschichte

Was listed is a book of Outdoor Ed locations around Melbourne that was published prior to the 80's, so has been climbed on by all and sundry over the years.

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -37.738465, 144.755033

Beschreibung

A little cluster of boulders a stone throw away from the creek. Found years ago but lost to the ages then rediscovered from a tip and sought out due to Covid. A path has been trodden around the base of the rock. Be careful of hidden rocks and potholes under long grass, snakes in summer and blackberry bush. (covered boots/shoes for approach recommended.)

Zustieg

From Arbour Blvd follow the small Rockwall around towards the creek until you can see the tips of the rock. Walk down towards the creek and find beaten track on your left going towards boulders.

Geschichte

Found years ago and rediscovered during Covid. No known history of problems.

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -37.832687, 144.835416

Übersicht

Lower Kororoit Creek bouldering cliff

Beschreibung

Modest natural and clean basalt bouldering cliff 3m tall offering a few interesting crack and face climbs. Rock is clean and generally strong, though some small edges have broken off while climbing (good sign others haven't visited it). The space for a bouldering mat is limited.

If keen for more, there are two other cliffs about 200m upstream from here. One is by the creek and the second away from the creek in the fenced off grassland reserve (possible an old quarry). Both require considerable gardening and there are not obvious nice lines.

Einschränkungen

Park at eastern end of Dohertys Rd, Altona, at the entrance to the Kororoit Creek Nature Reserve.

Zustieg

Enter the reserve and take the middle of the three gravel walking paths. Walk along path to the third electricity pole from the park entrance then step off the path and walk towards the creek to reach the cliff. It is at 37°49'57.6"S 144°50'07.3"E and https://goo.gl/maps/zaepLfqAEuzEZxze9

Ethik

No bolting and no chipping.

If you disagree with any grades or description, do not unilaterally change them. Instead add a comment to the route.

Geschichte

This cliff was discovered during the Melbourne 2021 covid lockdowns when movement was restricted to within 15km of home. Tim Peterson found it by searching the banks of every creek and river within the 15km from his home in Footscray. Thanks covid! That said, if you climber here before Tim then comment on the relevant routes etc.

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -37.775175, 144.960479

Beschreibung

Artificial bouldering wall introduced by Moreland Council as part of a new public space at Wilson Avenue adjacent Sydney Road in Brunswick.

Zustieg

The bouldering facility is in Brunswick and adjacent Jewell Railway Station, tram stops serving Tram 19 and the Upfield Bike Path.

Geschichte

http://www.moreland.vic.gov.au/about-us/projects/completed-projects/completed-projects-2015/wilson-avenue-brunswick-public-space/

Summary:

Hauptsächlich Sportklettern

Lat / Long: -37.726762, 144.950658

Übersicht

Victoria's only indoor climbing facility in Melbourne to offer international sport and speed climbing competition standard walls. Auto-belay, partner belay and lead climbing options.

Beschreibung

182 - 184 Sussex Street Pascoe Vale www.gravityworx.com.au

Summary:

Bouldern und Sportklettern

Lat / Long: -38.093659, 145.168906

Beschreibung

If you climb at Bayside Rock you can use the generic routes below to keep your training logbook up to date.

Zustieg

9 Network Drive, Carrum Downs

Summary:

Top Roping, Sportklettern und Bouldern

Lat / Long: -37.831948, 144.825708

Übersicht

Opening hours: Monday – Friday: 12noon to 10pm, Satuday – Sunday: 10am to 7pm

Website: www.cliffhanger.com.au

Email: info@cliffhanger.com.au

Phone: 03 9369 6400

Beschreibung

If you climb at Cliffhanger you can use the generic routes below to keep your training logbook up to date. Chalk-up and start sending!

Zustieg

61-65 Dohertys Road, Altona North VIC 3025

We are located in the Westgate Sports & Leisure Complex only 15 minutes from the Melbourne CBD, and easily accessible from the Westgate Freeway, Princes Highway or Western Ring Road.

Geschichte

Established in 1993, we are Australia's premier indoor rock climbing centre with walls that are the tallest in the Southern Hemisphere standing at 20 metres.

Cliffhanger offers a diverse range of graded climbing walls. With two dedicated bouldering areas, feature walls, crack climbs and a dozen lead climbing walls set by some of the best route setters in the Australia.

Summary:

Sportklettern und Bouldern

Lat / Long: -37.807210, 144.962493

Beschreibung

If you climb at Hardrock CBD you can use the generic routes below to keep your training logbook up to date.

Zustieg

Shop 4 / 8 Franklin Street, Melbourne, Victoria, 3000

Summary:

Sportklettern, Bouldern und andere Stile

Lat / Long: -37.820200, 145.172273

Beschreibung

If you climb at Hardrock Nunawading you can use the generic routes below to keep your training logbook up to date.

Zustieg

16-18 Varman Court, Nunawading Victoria 3131

Summary:

Sportklettern und Bouldern

Lat / Long: -37.801326, 144.993425

Beschreibung

Bouldering Gym. Part of Northside Boulders (along with Brunswick and Northcote).

If you climb at The Lactic Factory you can use the generic routes below to keep your training logbook up to date.

http://www.thelacticfactory.com.au/

Zustieg

1 Studley Street, Abbotsford, VIC, 3067

Beschreibung

Hours: Monday – Friday 12pm to 10pm Satuday – Sunday 10am to 8pm

email: info@northsideboulders.com

http://www.northsideboulders.com/

Zustieg

329 Victoria Street Brunswick VIC 3056

Geschichte

2015

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -37.769541, 144.997220

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -37.802727, 144.987444

Übersicht

Flexible climbing, yoga, and training space. The biggest boulder gym in Melbourne.

Beschreibung

If you climb at Urban Climb, use the generic routes below to update your log book.

29-41 Down St, Collingwood VIC 3066

https://www.urbanclimb.com.au/

Summary:

Alle Sportklettern

Lat / Long: -37.820273, 145.159606

Übersicht

Bouldering, top rope, lead climbing, speed climbing, and training faciilities. 6 auto-belay walls.

Beschreibung

https://urbanclimb.com.au/locations/blackburn/

Summary:

Alle Sportklettern

Lat / Long: -37.764400, 144.960250

Beschreibung

https://www.northwalls.com.au/

17-19 Hope Street, Brunswick, 3056 Melbourne, VIC

Beschreibung

https://www.upunlimited.com.au/

4/444 Warrigal Road, Moorabbin, Vic 3202,

Übersicht

Alongside 100+ boulders, you'll also find in haus: specialised training & functional fitness facilities, an 8 metre padded slackline, a FamilyHaus designed especially for kids & their families, specialty coffee, & plenty of room to hang about.

Beschreibung

🖥 website: mlb.blochaus.com.au 📱 instagram: instagram.com/blochausmlb 📖 facebook: facebook.com/blochausmlb/

Zustieg

unit 2 359 plummer street Port Melbourne

Übersicht

Bouldering gym in Prahran, which opened in 2020 and "reflects the strong social, fitness, and music culture of the Prahran and surrounding area".

Beschreibung

https://www.boulderproject.com.au/

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Beschreibung

A Hexagonal Concrete wall with many slots and ledges providing excellent varied movement. Jamming, crimping, laybacks a plenty.

If you wear old clothes for all the dust, headphones for the road noise and a stoic grin for the spiders webs you'll have a grand old time.

Zustieg

Car park directally opposite for the train station; couldn't be easier. Plus its a short walk from Dandenong so you can fill up on Biryani afterwards.

Summary:

traditionelles Klettern, Klettern und andere Stile

Lat / Long: -37.944547, 144.414543

Übersicht

Typically this granite outcrop of boulders and slabs offers mostly short low angled face climbs on rough rock with small holds.

Beschreibung

Only 352 m in height the granite peaks of the You Yangs dominate the Werribee lava plains and are clearly identifiable from Melbourne and beyond.

Einschränkungen

National Park. Parks Vic website (Oct 2014) says "[...] Bookings are required for groups. Individuals are not required to book, but should check with the Park Office to enquire about the availability of sites. [...]"

Zustieg

You Yangs Regional Park is 55 km south-west of Melbourne and 22 km north of Geelong (Melway ref: Key map 11). Access to the park from the Geelong-Melbourne Freeway is clearly signposted via Little River or Lara.

Ethik

Mixed climbing with trad and some sports options, as well as bouldering. Bring hangar plates, as many climbs are equipped with carrot bolts.

Summary:

Sportklettern, Klettern und andere Stile

Lat / Long: -37.955476, 144.413038

Beschreibung

Bring bolt plates as nearly all climbs are on carrots.

The top of the climbs are very slabby over course granite, so take this into account for cleaning after lead climbing.

If you're looking to top rope make sure you have the ability to extend the anchors quite a bit (up to 6-8m).

Zustieg

From Big Rock car park take the track to Big Rock, 2 minutes walk. On the left as you arrive is the Eastern Block with the Main Wall on the opposite side of the granite outcrop.

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -37.960448, 144.422436

Beschreibung

A nice collection of boulders conveniently next to the picnic ground with gas barbeques.

Summary:

traditionelles Klettern, Sportklettern und andere Stile

Lat / Long: -37.953240, 144.424776

Summary:

Bouldern, Klettern und andere Stile

Lat / Long: -37.945533, 144.422025

Summary:

traditionelles Klettern, Bouldern und andere Stile

Lat / Long: -37.942444, 144.421833

Summary:

traditionelles Klettern, Sportklettern und andere Stile

Lat / Long: -37.940590, 144.430382

Summary:

Klettern, traditionelles Klettern und andere Stile

Lat / Long: -37.925000, 144.427088

Einschränkungen

This is private property and the owners have not given permission to climb here

Summary:

traditionelles Klettern, Bouldern und andere Stile

Lat / Long: -37.933395, 144.442554

Summary:

Klettern, traditionelles Klettern und andere Stile

Lat / Long: -37.945982, 144.441899

Summary:

Klettern, Sportklettern und andere Stile

Lat / Long: -37.933544, 144.448455

Summary:

traditionelles Klettern, Sportklettern und technisches Klettern

Lat / Long: -37.660207, 144.350420

Übersicht

Good variety of short routes close to Melbourne

Beschreibung

A warm up walk in leads to a good mix of short to medium routes on conglomerate rock with some sport climbing from mid-grade up. Falcon's Lookout (the only open climbing area) is serviced by a generous number of belay posts which negate the need to use trees as anchor points - hopefully preventing further erosion. Bring a setup rope or similar if intending to toprope.

Choss at the top so remember to wear your helmet and call 'rock' when knocking down a shower of muddy pebbles on your belayer after topping out. Does catch the sun in the morning so pick your days.

Easy access to routes. The walk in lands you at the top of the climbs with stairs at the L end of the crag. Jump on the popular 'Big Ears' or put your gym training to the test on the world famous 'Redex Irlont Sudano'. And just remember, it's not in Werribee..

Einschränkungen

State park

Parks Victoria advises that 'Falcons Lookout' is currently the only area open for climbing.

Zustieg

Take the Western Highway out of Melbourne. Take the first exit into Bacchus Marsh. Go into Bacchus Marsh, turn L into Grant St (just before the hill). Go straight ahead for about 1km, crossing the river and then turning R into Griffith St at the roundabout just before the railway crossing. Go about 2km then veer R into McCormack Road at the golf course. Cross the railway line then turn hard R into Ironbark Rd.

To get to 'Falcons Lookout' follow Ironbark Rd for 6km to a parking area on the R after you cross the railway again, but before you go under the railway bridge. A Parks Victoria information sign marks the beginning of the walking track. Follow track through Ironbark Gorge to Falcons Lookout (Sign posted 40 minute walk, actual time = 25 min.).

Ethik

Visitors are encouraged to use this area responsibly and to adopt safe practices during all climbing and aseiling activities. The use of safety equipment, including helmets, is recommended.

Please keep to the tracks, observe access agreements, remove all rubbish, and climb safely.

Geschichte

Werribee Gorge's potential for rockclimbing was noticed by Keith Lockwood in 1970. His enthusiasm for the cliff's strong architecture was tempered by access difficulties but later visits by Norm Booth revealed easier access, allowing visitors to quickly develop 'Falcons Lookout' (the Ampitheatre).

Summary:

traditionelles Klettern, Sportklettern und technisches Klettern

Lat / Long: -37.658792, 144.343518

Einschränkungen

The google map pin does not lead to the correct place since the new roads have been built, you need to park at the Ironbark Gorge Track Carpark. Google map link: https://tinyurl.com/rpcyq8r

Zustieg

30-40 minutes walk from carparking area. Bring a spare static rope(roughly 20m) if you want to build top-roping anchors. The anchor posts are set a couple metres back from the cliff edge and are easily accessible from the track.

Summary:

Alle traditionelles Klettern

Beschreibung

This area is currently closed, no climbing permitted.

Summary:

Alle traditionelles Klettern

Beschreibung

This area is currently closed, no climbing permitted.

Summary:

Alle traditionelles Klettern

Beschreibung

This area is currently closed, no climbing permitted.

Summary:

Alle traditionelles Klettern

Beschreibung

This area is currently closed, no climbing permitted.

Summary:

Bouldern, traditionelles Klettern und andere Stile

Lat / Long: -37.369536, 144.597028

Beschreibung

Mount Macedon is a small town located 64 kilometers northwest of Melbourne. Camels Hump is the highest peak of Mount Macedon. This small rocky outcrop is relatively unimpressive but is in fact the 400 million year old remnant of one of the largest volcanoes ever seen in Earth's history.

It has steep and solid rock, with a variety of pumpy sport routes, tall trad lines, and crispy boulder problems. The area in great for climbers not wanting to make a long drive to the bigger named crags. If you're climbing grades 16-20 or V2-6, there's plenty of quality here worth ticking.

Toilets - nearest public toilets are only 500m further up the road from the Camel's Hump car park on Cameron drive. Given the popularity of climbing and bouldering here, finding a spot downhill behind a boulder isn't an option anymore.

Zustieg

Take the Calder Hwy (M79) out of Melbourne. Get off at the Mt Macedon exit (C322) and head up the Mount. The easiest approach to the crag is to simply walk along a trail marked "Emergency Use Only", that leaves from the Camel's Hump car park, and weaves around to the base of the Omega Block area.

Geschichte

The 1st climbers apparently came to Camel Hump in the late 1950’s and it received a sprinkling of routes from the VCC and RMIT groups through the 1960’s – Romulus, Remus, Oxbow and Witch gave Victoria its first 17. Activity continued but much of it went unrecorded and Chris Baxters Central Victorian guidebook of 1974 described only 13 routes. Camels spent much of the 1970’s in the doldrums. Mike Law and friends ‘rewrote the guidebook’ during the early 80’s . Most recently attention has focused on the Back Wall and bouldering opportunities. - Chris Baxter c 1991

Summary:

Bouldern, traditionelles Klettern und andere Stile

Lat / Long: -37.369551, 144.595917

Beschreibung

The main area

Zustieg

Go through the town of Mt Macedon and continue for about 3km up C322. Turn LEFT at the signpost to the Mt Macedon memorial cross (C328).

About 500m in on this road there is a car park and information sign; park here.

Walk along the track that starts at the western end of the car park. A couple meters down, take the right fork (marked "Emergency Track Only"). Follow this track past Privy block - Chain buttress and Break block until you see a track heading up the hill on the right.

OMEGA BLOCK is about 60m up the hill and the LOWER TIER is 30m straight ahead.

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -37.368278, 144.597144

Beschreibung

Multiple boulders along walking track or a little up into bush.

Zustieg

Take MRWT walking track down from small car park on Mount Macedon Rd about 200m north of the Cameron Drive/Memorial Cross turnoff. Most of the boulders can be found on the uphill side of track (left when approaching from the Mount Macedon Rd car park, right from the Cameron Drive car park end), some are slightly uphill into the bush. Egg Boulder is on the downhill side of track.

This track is about 1.6km long and runs around the north side of Camel's Hump, eventually coming to the main car park on Cameron Drive.

Geschichte

Many of the blocks including the now named Snot Blok were cleaned and climbed back in the 90's by Martin Lama, who after returning from his first trip to Hueco Tanks needed a local fix and in doing so scoured the whole hillside.

Good chance though given how quickly the boulders here return to their natural state, that many were discovered and climbed even earlier.

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -37.369157, 144.597326

Beschreibung

An area with a decent amount of bouldering, but which is still being developed. Bring some psyche and lend a hand!

Zustieg

Approach by following the trail from Lower Tier (Omega Block area) around the corner. The area is about 100m past Lower Tier, with the boulders scattered both up and down the hill.

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -37.369412, 144.596648

Beschreibung

The Eastern side of the Omega Block outcrop offers a surprisingly large amount of rock. Unfortunately the maze is quite disjointed and offers nothing of value for roped climbing. On the first couple of visits you could be under the same impression in regards to bouldering potential. There isn't a lot,thankfully though there are a few good blocks tucked away in there.

Due to the 3D nature of the Labyrinth, there are often bad landings and descents aren't always straight forward. Recommended for experienced climbers only!

Zustieg

Best starting point to find your way into the Labyrinth is to walk in to the Ordinary Men's Boulder and head just west to the main outcrop.

Abstieg

Given the disjointed nature of the Labyrinth, best to assess the descent of the boulder problem before climbing as it will vary considerably; from the easiest walk off to exposed scramble.

Geschichte

Robin Holmes found some great lines back in the 80's tucked away in the maze. Martin Lama has continued the exploration and has been slowly nutting out lines since the mid 90's.

Summary:

traditionelles Klettern, Bouldern und Sportklettern

Lat / Long: -37.369437, 144.598305

Übersicht

.

Beschreibung

At 924m elevation with a North Eastern aspect and tricky approach tracks - getting around is challenging but its well worth a visit.

Einschränkungen

Upper paths are steep, angled and slippery - use caution. Optus mobile phone reception is very poor

Zustieg

Go through the town of Mt Macedon and continue for another 3.6km (From the Mt Macedon Hotel) to the left-hand turn off to the Memorial Cross. Do not take that, but instead continue for 200m to turn right into Lions Head road (Sanatorium Lake picnic area) and park immediately on the left-hand side on the grassy area.

Now, walk back across the road (Mt Macedon Road) and go through the 'Management Vehicles and Walkers Only' gate and follow walking track for 70m from the gate. Pass the green "Walking Trail" sign at about 50m and 20m past this on the left, at a thicket of trees is a cairn. Head straight off the path at right angles and follow the line of cairns through the trees and up the hill for about 2 minutes to a small cleared camp area (quarry). Head right (north) along the trail to the rocks on the left.

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -37.372056, 144.595097

Beschreibung

Small Boulder seated at the carpark entrance.

Summary:

Bouldern, traditionelles Klettern und andere Stile

Lat / Long: -36.998604, 144.304631

Beschreibung

Mt Alexander is a granodiorite peak rising ~350m above the surrounding area (744m above sea level). The rock quality varies from very good, smooth and solid, to coarse and friable in places.

There are a number of sports climbs, trad climbs, and boulder problems.

Einschränkungen

PLEASE READ IF IT IS YOUR FIRST TIME TO MT ALEXANDER

Most of Mt Alexander is a regional (not national) park, so while climbing is permitted general rules apply; dogs are permitted on leash, fires only in established fire places (from Parks Victoria website).

Being able to climb at Mt Alexander is a privilege and climbers need to act accordingly; especially given the increased amount of climbers frequenting the area due to Grampians closures. Please do not drop litter (e.g. fingertape) - in fact, if you can, remove any litter you see when you leave. Please keep to existing trails where you can. Do not engage in overzealous cleaning of climbs - keep it to the minimum. Don't harm any trees. Be courteous to fellow users of the park.

Toilets are available at the Leanganook campground and at the mountain bike park near the Oak Forest (close to Harcourt). Should you need to defecate please do so in accordance with established practices for wilderness behaviour (e.g. stay away from water courses, digging a hole etc).

Please see individual access notes for each area.

Zustieg

The mount is ~125km north of Melbourne. Approach on the Calder Freeway (M79), and take the Harcourt exit.

To reach the southern crags/boulders:

From the "town centre" drive south on the Calder Highway (C794), turn left on Farraday-Sutton Grange road and then left again on Joseph Young Drive.

To reach to northern crags/boulders:

Either follow Joseph Young Drive across the mountain, or: drive north from the "town centre" on Calder Highway (C794) to turn right on Market Street, and then left on Reservoir road. Going straight on at the left turn takes you to the Oak Forest (mountain bike park) which is the access point for some areas.

Ethik

Do not bolt highball problems except with agreement of the first ascentionist. In general, keep bolting to a minimum. Since 2010 there was been almost zero bolting of new routes.

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -36.969295, 144.299637

Beschreibung

A little collection of boulders along the side of the road just before the right hand turn into Joseph young road when travelling from Harcourt. Grades up to v8.

Zustieg

Park in the little car park on the right just after the turn into Joseph Young drive if approaching from the north. From here, walk back down the road for ~100m to get to the boulders.

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -36.969346, 144.302318

Beschreibung

A few good boulders just up Joseph young road when coming from Harcourt.

Zustieg

Park in the little car park on the right just after the turn into Joseph Young drive.

Geschichte

See http://mountalexander.blogspot.com.au

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -36.971544, 144.305659

Beschreibung

The Goldfield is located about 300m further down the road (on the left) from Artful Dodger area. Park as for Artful Dodger.

Discovered by Hiroaki Nishikawa.

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -36.974254, 144.305491

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -36.978482, 144.306161

Zustieg

Park beside Harcourt-Sutton Grange Rd just after the sharp S bend after crossing the Coliban Main Channel (aqueduct). Walk south along the Leanganook Track for 900m until you reach a small creek. From here walk 300m up the hill passing Highball Wall until you reach Pocket Pistol.

Summary:

Alle Klettern

Lat / Long: -36.981743, 144.294533

Summary:

Hauptsächlich Bouldern

Lat / Long: -36.982858, 144.303894

Zustieg

The Kingdom Boulders is on the right side of Joseph Young drive between Artful Dodger area and the summit. It is obvious by the road near an old quarry. Park thoughtfully by the side of the road.

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -36.983394, 144.300771

Übersicht

In a galaxy far far away...

Beschreibung

Or maybe not so much...

Zustieg

Park at the pull-out on a sharp bend in the road and follow the 4WD track behind kingdom boulders to a clear grassy area. From here head west down into grassy gulley and be astounded.

Geschichte

As with all dark past on the hill Charlie Creese features heavily as both the source and the inspiration. Recent work done by Garry Williams, Pete Reynolds, Mark Rewi and others.

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -36.985979, 144.306705

Beschreibung

A couple warm up boulders.

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -36.987272, 144.301053

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -36.987420, 144.308175

Summary:

traditionelles Klettern, Bouldern und andere Stile

Lat / Long: -36.989155, 144.295608

Zustieg

Park at the Oak Forest and walk up the approach path. Steep!

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -36.990526, 144.289883

Einschränkungen

Park at the Oak Forest and walk up the approach path as if going towards Wabbit Wocks but head left when you can see the rocks in the distance.

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -36.990191, 144.305074

Zustieg

High Fells is just past the Kingdom Boulders but before the summit. Park on the dirt road just north of where the Goldfields Track crosses JYD. Walk along the track (towards Dog Rocks) to access Chicken Run, Mellon Collie, Promise of Insurance etc. The Wall and Stinkfest are best approached cross country down past the knoll on the left of the dirt road.

Summary:

traditionelles Klettern, Sportklettern und andere Stile

Lat / Long: -36.989200, 144.308969

Zustieg

Park at Lang's Lookout.

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -36.994858, 144.302043

Beschreibung

Land of the Overhangs is just south of the summit aerials. Drive over the top coming from Harcourt and turn right as if you are heading towards Dog Rocks. Shortly, turn off the road on the right-hand side near some aerials/buildings to park in an open area. Take the path to Shepherd's Flat which winds down and left to get to the boulders. Some on/around the path, and a few higher up the hillside.

Summary:

Bouldern, Klettern und andere Stile

Lat / Long: -36.998648, 144.303425

Zustieg

Walk down the Goldfields Track from either Dog Rocks or Land of the Overhangs parking areas.

Summary:

Hauptsächlich Bouldern

Lat / Long: -36.998916, 144.299783

Beschreibung

This is an area with scattered granite boulders and a few longer slabs which lies along the foot of the hill below Scorpion Rocks.

Zustieg

Head to Harcourt and follow the signs down Market St and straight ahead onto the dirt road to the MTB Park. Turn left at the MTB Trail Head and follow for another 500m to The Oaks camping ground.

Park at The Oak Forest and head south to the old bitumen access road heading east for around 800 m. When the bitumen road veers south, you will see a track running off to the left. Head up the track to Garden Boulders and the Lord Area. When you get to the old stone hut (can't miss it), head left (west) to Garden Boulders and right and up the hill to the Lord area.

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -36.999803, 144.298113

Beschreibung

The Garden Boulders exist on the lefthand side of the valley (when approaching from the south), of which Scorpian Rocks lies at the head. It is a small area to the left of the main path. If you head to the right up the hillside you get to the Lord Area and eventually Dog Rocks. Park at the Oak Forest and walk up the old access road.

First ascents by a cast of thousands (possibly) including: Pete Reynolds, Simon Weill, Ash Sankey, Charlie Crease, Martin Lama, Kent Patterson and Neil Montieth. Specified where clear.

Zustieg

Up from the Oak Forest near Harcourt.

Summary:

Hauptsächlich Bouldern

Lat / Long: -36.999753, 144.307631

Beschreibung

This is a small area just past the summit (if driving up from Harcourt) on the left hand side of the road. You can see the big boulders from the road. Park on the roadside.

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -37.001075, 144.305079

Beschreibung

The Pull-Out is a small quarried area just down from the summit. When driving south from the summit, park before Dog Rocks in a wide spot on the left (about 1km from the summit) and walk uphill on the right across quarried blocks and vegetation for about 5 minutes - it is very close to the road. The Pull-Out consists of a mixture of slabs and aretes in an old quarry. On a large block to the left of the bouldering area lie three chiselled and bolted routes (up to grade 28) courtesy of Matt Brooks. The problems are on two tiers.

Summary:

Bouldern und Sportklettern

Lat / Long: -37.001695, 144.309680

Beschreibung

Needs rebolting

Summary:

Bouldern, traditionelles Klettern und andere Stile

Lat / Long: -37.011078, 144.301373

Zustieg

Park at the Dog Rocks carpark (park at 9o degrees to the road to allow plenty of space for non-climbers to use the area). Short walk in on path.

Summary:

Bouldern und traditionelles Klettern

Lat / Long: -37.013289, 144.300361

Beschreibung

Walk south along the Goldfields track from Dog Rocks for about 10 mins until you see the crag on the right: this is Invaders from Afar.

Summary:

Hauptsächlich Klettern

Summary:

Alle Klettern

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -37.018404, 144.296909

Zustieg

Park at the Leanganook camping area and walk west along the track for 1km (around 15 minutes) to Ed's Seat (lookout with a bench seat). From the lookout head downhill to the right-hand side of the cliff (looking out) towards a big gum tree.

Summary:

Hauptsächlich Bouldern

Lat / Long: -37.020765, 144.296901

Beschreibung

Park at the parking spot for the Goldfields Track on McQuillans Road. Follow the track up and then veer left to get to the boulders.

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -37.022851, 144.313294

Zustieg

Park near the Mt Alexander sign at the far south of Joseph Young drive (when approaching from the south) and you can see the boulders on the left.

Summary:

traditionelles Klettern, Bouldern und andere Stile

Lat / Long: -37.404474, 145.767259

Übersicht

Long (100m plus) multi-pitch climbs on fantastic sandstone slabs. Mainly trad.

Beschreibung

Fun adventure climbing. Allow enough light for the approach and descent which can be tricky for first time visitors. The majority of climbs are east facing and sunny until around 2pm. It gets cold very quickly when the sun passes behind the range.

Zustieg

119km from Melbourne, 18km from Buxton.

Übernachtung

Camping is permitted at several locations in the park. Possible as a day trip from Melbourne and surrounds.

Summary:

Hauptsächlich traditionelles Klettern

Lat / Long: -37.362377, 145.743827

Übersicht

Quality sandstone.

Beschreibung

Esoteric crag offering some great routes. Unfortunately due to the disjointed nature and prickle bushes it can be difficult to get to and find the lines. A number of lines are best accessed from above because of this.

Zustieg

From the Neds Gully campsite, follow the walking track towards the summit. Path offers good view of the wall on the walk in and if a good place to try and work out the lines. From the saddle to the right of the crag, head across to the top right end of the cliff

Summary:

Hauptsächlich traditionelles Klettern

Lat / Long: -37.365999, 145.742564

Beschreibung

Neds Peak is another tier of leaning sandstone strata similar to Ten fathom Ridge but steeper. Some of the best examples of compact orange sandstone in the range are found here. There are three clean and quite attractive sections along the cliff line, somewhat seperated by the steep hillside and prickly nature of the vegetation. The crag is only 10 mins walk from the top of Ten Fathom ridge meaning you can visit both in the same day.

Zustieg

From the Neds Gully Campsite follow the Neds Gully walking track to the Ten Fathom Ridge saddle. Continue along the track another 60m or so to a vague pad on the L. Follow the contourtoward the rock which is visible through the trees and you should eventually be confronted by the imposing feature of Free Standing (Following the walking track straight on eventually brings you to Neds Saddle, the L hand path takes you to Neds Peak proper)

The routes are described L and L from Free Standing.

Übernachtung

Cooks Mill or Neds gully Campground, local caravan parks or towns for more comfort.

Ethik

Trad, Mixed and Sport routes all exist.

Summary:

Hauptsächlich traditionelles Klettern

Lat / Long: -37.360086, 145.736245

Übersicht

Steep with jugs

Beschreibung

Sunset Strip is the only crag on the western side of the range. Here the upthrust of the standstone is at its steepest but unfortunately the crag is somewhat broken by terraces making for shorter routes. The cliffs character and location high on the Cathedral Range, overlooking the Acheron Valley somewhat make up for this and for the long approach via Neds Gully.

When lit by the afternoon sun the orange wall can easily be seen from the Maroondah Highway. Best avoided in hot weather. Most routes start of a narrow ledge and there fore have instant exposure. There is natural and fixed protection.

The climbing is generally steep and clean and there is a bunch of decent worthwhile routes that are great on a winters afternoon.

Einschränkungen

Long approach from Neds Gully via the current track. The old track went straight up the ridge.

Zustieg

From the the Ten Fathom Ridge Saddle continue up the track to Neds Saddle. Turn hard R and follow the track sign posted "Little Cathedral Track as it follows the contour line of the ridge line between the North Cathedral and Little Cathedral. Turn L sign posted Neds Saddle via Cathedral Peak and ascend about 170m to a flat spot on the ridge. Walk over the little saddle and follow a pad down and L to the terrace under the crag. Expect to take upwards of 45 mins.

Übernachtung

Cooks Mill or Neds Gully in the Park or Alexandra is just around the corner.

Ethik

There is a mixture of Fixed and natural protection.

Geschichte

Spied by Graham Hoxley from his girlfriends bedroom window, later later raided by Geoff Butcher, Tempest and Martin Llama at different stages.

Summary:

Klettern und traditionelles Klettern

Lat / Long: -37.388701, 145.744288

Zustieg

55 mins steep walk from Jawbone carpark. Follow signposted trail up to the South Jawbone Peak until approximately the point where it veers right and starts ascending more steeply to the peak. Look for a faint trail to the left which descends down the gully for awhile before veering right following cairns to South Jawbone climbs (continuing to the left leads to Blue Haze climbs)

Summary:

Alle traditionelles Klettern

Lat / Long: -37.387160, 145.743942

Beschreibung

A fun, slabby outcrop with several climbs in the 14 to 21 grade range. Short walk in from the Saddle, between North and South Jawbones. Descend either via the gully or veer left at the top of the gully to rap chains. The climbing is similar in style to other crags in the range, with more pimply rock. Fixed hangers exist where you need them. See 'Rockclimbs Around Melbourne' for more info.

Zustieg

55 mins steep walk from Jawbone carpark. Follow signposted trail up to the South Jawbone Peak until approximately the point where it veers right and starts ascending more steeply to the peak. Look for a faint trail to the left which descends down the gully for awhile before veering left to Blue Haze climbs (right following cairns leads to South Jawbone climbs)

Summary:

traditionelles Klettern und Klettern

Lat / Long: -37.382735, 145.742879

Beschreibung

North Jawbone (singular!) overlooks the Cathedral Valley on the eastern side of the Cathedral Range. Despite its steep appearance North Jawbone is a reclining slab of about 60 degrees. The climbs are over 100m long on quality chocolate sandstone.

Zustieg

Access: From Melbourne take the Maroondah Highway to Buxton (100km). From Buxton continue along highway for 9km, and then turn right onto Cathedral Lane. Follow the road to the Cathedral State Park. Once inside the State Park, drive to the Cooks Mill camping site and continue on until you arrive at the North Jawbone car park.

From the car park take the well signed North Jawbone Hiking Track, down to the creek and on up the ridge on the other side of the valley. About half way up a bunch of slabby buttresses appear on the right (almost reaching the trail) A short distance further, there is a boulder marked by an orange triangle on the left.

Continue past this boulder to a second boulder marked by an orange triangle (https://www.thecrag.com/en/photo/7519436385). At the second boulder, immediately turn right off the hiking track and onto a small trail leading right. Follow the trail uphill marked by cairns through dense scrub, exiting at the base of the cliff. (If you cross a stream and hit switchback steps, you've gone too far)

Abseil Descent: The route follows the left edge of the right (Spiegal's Xanthene etc) buttress as marked. The rappels are approx 55 and 56m so the ground can be reached in two raps with 2x60m ropes (see notes below for options with shorter ropes).

First rap is two SS Petzl rings located a small scramble down from near the top of Travellers Slab.

Head down and slightly left to reach the ledges, go over these and down the face about 8m further to two more rings at a small but comfortable stance.

From here, the second rap heads slightly right down the face (near Route Two) to the bottom.

Options: If you have 1x60m and 1x50m ropes, you might be able to reach the midstation by equalising the ropes as best you can. Otherwise, stop on a small stance on the face and downclimb the easy but exposed face (or belay to be safer). Don't forget to tie stopper knots in the ends of your ropes. You can reach easy-angled slabs at the base with this rope combination and scramble down the last 2-3m of low-angle slabs.

If you only have 2x50m ropes you might still consider using the rap descent. Rap down to the ledges then belay or scramble down to the rings. For the second rap, head straight down the face over roofs (watch for sharp edges) to end up reaching a stance higher up in the gully, then bash down the last few metres.

Caveat: the short-rope options have not been tested. Abseiling can lead to injury or death, take suitable precautions.

Walk off: If you have packed light and lugged all your stuff up the cliff then walk off is quite simple. Scramble all the way up until you hit the tourist trail clearly marked by orange triangles. This heads off over the back of the cliff then down to the left. Trail passes through a grassy section, then head left towards the farmyard (signed) and down the hill. Allow just under an hour back to the car or 30/40 if you're fast.

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -37.382748, 145.744634

Übersicht

Large area with many boulders of different grades, this area ranges from easily accessible to accessible with some difficulty.

Beschreibung

This large area is full of bus-sized boulders pointing out at various angles, the general area is very slabby and therefore encourages people to not explore too much. If you do explore you could find some hidden gems though as there are climbable boulders all through this area.

Einschränkungen

The road in to Jawbone Carpark can be quite bumpy and is prone to trees falling down across the road, but the road isn't that bad - still very manageable in a 2WD. The Jawbone Creek track has a grade of 4 which means, bush-walking experience recommended as tracks may be rough and steep. Once you get to the boulder area there are several boulders that are close but many more that take a little exploration.

Zustieg

These boulders are right next to the track. Take the Maroondah Highway/B360 to Buxton, turn right onto Buxton-Marysville Rd/C508. From there it should be signposted but turn left onto Mt Margret Rd, from there continue along until you reach Jawbone Carpark. Take Jawbone Creek Track along until you get to some large boulder above/right of you, this is your destination.

Übernachtung

The best places to stay are at one of the campsites in the Range but if you want more comfort then your best bet would be to stay in a surrounding town. Place like Taggerty, Marysville and Buxton have various places to stay and are all about 10-20kms from the Cathedral Range.

Summary:

Alle traditionelles Klettern

Lat / Long: -37.377272, 145.741542

Beschreibung

This outcrop lies on the hillside between the North Jawbones and the Gorge and is easily seen when walking in to the later. The buttress is about 40m high but the climbing potential is limited, despite its impressive appearance. The rock is not the best here and the routes fairly insignificant, although there are a few quite hard problems still to be done. All the climbs were done some years ago by the usual farty school boys. Who did what is now almost forgotten.

Zustieg

As for the gorge until opposite the crag (about 450m from the car). It has a prominent set of overhangs at about one third height. Head down the hillside, cross the creek and trodge directly uphill to the base. Takes upwards of 30 mins. be prepared for prickly bush.

Summary:

Hauptsächlich traditionelles Klettern

Lat / Long: -37.372307, 145.742719

Übersicht

To quoute an early explorer "The Major lines tend to be gullies filled with prehistoric creatures and other beasties"

Beschreibung

Lots of slabby ribs broken by vegetated gullies, lots of rock, lots of prickly vegetation. To quote the eastern guide, lots of rock not much of interest.

Einschränkungen

Lots of prickly shit. Prickly long bush bash to get back down.

Zustieg

From the North Jawbones carpark follow the foot track towards Cooks Mill till it swings away down a spur to the R (East). Continue to the North (L) down the long open ridge. When the gorge is almost opposite (10 - 15 minutes from the car)

Übernachtung

Camp at Cooks Mill, nearby Caravan Parks of plenty of accomodation options in nearby towns.

Summary:

Hauptsächlich traditionelles Klettern

Lat / Long: -37.406507, 145.753132

Übersicht

A lovely area with tons of easy multi pitch routes and nice exposure leading to summit views and an adventurous decent.

Beschreibung

The VCC and MUMC have spent many hours out here in the past and developed most of the area. Long, enjoyable easy routes make their ways to the top of the cliff and descend through wells cave on the North-West.

Einschränkungen

See http://parkweb.vic.gov.au/ and https://cliffcare.org.au/

Zustieg

From the Sugarloaf Saddle follow the trail across the road from the shelter West where you will immediately come to a fork. The Canyon Track leads to Sugarloaf Boulder and easier access to the peak. Wells Cave Track takes you to Fly Paper Wall, Main Face, Cave Slab, and (Obviously) Wells Cave - the decent route.

Übernachtung

Camping is available at Cooks Mill, Neds Gully and on the range at the overnight hike‐in site, The Farmyard. Access to Neds Gully camping area is accessible via a short walk across the swing bridge from Neds Gully Carpark. Cooks Mill has sites suitable for a small number of caravans. Camping fees apply and pre booking is required for Neds Gully and Cooks Mill camping areas. Prior to your visit please book online and check for changes in conditions through www.parks.vic.gov.au or by calling 13 1963.

Ethik

Keep to designated tracks, All plants, animals, other natural features and cultural sites are protected and must not be disturbed or removed.  There is no rubbish collection in the park, please take all your rubbish home with you for recycling and disposal.  Dogs and other pets are not permitted in the park.  Feeding wildlife is bad for their health. It is an offence to feed or leave food where it is accessible to wildlife. Penalties apply.  Please abide by speed limits within the park, drive safely and watch for wildlife.  Loud noise can disturb wildlife. Please respect the local wildlife and your fellow campers and keep noise to a minimum.

Summary:

Hauptsächlich traditionelles Klettern

Lat / Long: -37.385254, 145.786032

Übersicht

Great technical climbing on Rhyolite high on the Blue range in a semi Alpine setting

Beschreibung

The legendary crag of the Eastern district. Bissets is a bit disjointed and broken up with access from climb to climb being somewhat frustrating. The cliff is situated on the side of a very steep hillside high in the Blue range protected by Prickly Acacia and other skin and soul destroting native plants. The rock however is exceptionally hard, smooth, good quality, and the climbs good quality also. Due to the rock type the are lends its elf to the harder more technical climbs that the nearby sandstone. Protection in the cracks is generally excellent with nuts, cams and the occasional bolt or peg.

Einschränkungen

High on a steep hill protected by prickly shit.

Zustieg

On the eastern side of Cooks Mill bridge is atrack (Little River Fire Track) heading east. The way is barred by a gate and signposted 'walkers only. Take this track, taking the left option a little way along. Foolw this till it makes a sharp L turn near the top of the ridge. . At this point Lowerson Walking track leads off right. This old logging track follows the contour and then turns abruptly downhill to the river. Find a suitable log to cross and make your way up stream until an opoening by some rock pools and slabs in the river. Double back about 30m to the rock fall on the steep uphill slope. Walk up the rock fall and soon a path should be found (starting near a large white tree) The way is steep but eventually the crag should be seen up on the L. The main pinnacle is easy to spot and makes a good place to drop gear. A fixed no smoking sign did mark the start of the track to get back down to the river.

For those with a 4WD the Alternative is to bash in from Tweed Spur Track.
It is also possible to to rock hop up and down the river from Cooks Mill in the drier months.

Übernachtung

Camp at Cooks Mill or Neds Gully, one of the local caravan parks or hotels in Alexandria, Buxton, marysville or Narbethong

Ethik

Mixed and trads routes are presented.

Summary:

Alle traditionelles Klettern

Lat / Long: -37.404689, 145.753016

Beschreibung

Top-rope and beginners area

Summary:

Top Roping, Klettern und traditionelles Klettern

Lat / Long: -37.410824, 145.756213

Summary:

Sportklettern, Bouldern und andere Stile

Lat / Long: -37.186350, 144.488500

Übersicht

Slabby granite tors. A mini version of the You Yangs but with shade.

Be aware of snakes as they're quite common throughout the reserve.

Einschränkungen

Forest Reserve

Zustieg

Take the Calder Hwy out of Melbourne. Get off at the Kyneton exit and head into town. Turn R onto the Edgecombe-Eppalock Rd.

Drive about 6km. When the road turns to the R turn R into Ennis Rd. Follow Ennis Rd for 750m and park at the gate and information shelter.

There are two entry points into the reserve. The ‘Front Gate’ entrance is located on the north western side of the reserve, whilst the ‘Back Gate’ is located on the south eastern side of the reserve.

‘Back Gate’ access: Calder Freeway to Kyneton exit and then right at the roundabout and take C326 Heathcote - Kyneton Rd and head towards Edgecombe. Pass Verekers Lane then turn right into Hallorans Lane. Drive to the end of the road and turn left at the T junction onto Black Hill Rd (unsealed) and follow this for 1.7km to a turnaround and gate (Back Gate). Park at the gate and enter the reserve.

Back Gate approach: From the Back Gate car park follow the trail until you hit the Circuit Track and turn right. Follow the Circuit Track until you arrive at the 1st of 2 picnic benches located near eachother. The large boulder on the left is The Monolith Boulder.

Summary:

Alle Sportklettern

Lat / Long: -37.184784, 144.487703

Übersicht

Two good bolted slabs on a shady wall

Beschreibung

The closest big block of boulders to the carpark. The south-facing wall sports a couple of good bolted slab routes above a hard undercut start that can be overcome with a stick-clip and batman.

Zustieg

Follow the track from the carpark until it swings left (400m). Head straight up the hill to the to first big block. Descent via u-bolts on top of the block. Top-rope is possible to arrange from these u-bolts. Top of the boulder can be accessed from a scramble up the East side. The last few meters is very exposed but has a bolt available.

Summary:

Alle Sportklettern

Lat / Long: -37.183835, 144.488036

Übersicht

A couple of cute low angle sport slabs. A good place to introduce your children/non climbing intimate to the game.

Zustieg

Can be approached from the base track, but is probably easiest found from Hollow Rock by contouring around the hill back towards the car park. Bunny Slopes ia the obvious bolted slab about half way between Hollow Rock and Batman Bloc.

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -37.183286, 144.487173

Übersicht

Various boulders from gritty to great.

Beschreibung

A large collection of boulders tight of the track where the summit track leaves the base track heading north. A large boulder with an obvious fused corner (The Obvious Fused Corner) is a good place to get your bearings. No doubt almost everything here has been done +/- graded +/- named in the past... Charlie and others can adjust if they see fit.

Zustieg

5min. Head north around base track from carpark until summit track heads up towards Virgin Summit Tor. The boulders are on the right.

Summary:

traditionelles Klettern und Sportklettern

Lat / Long: -37.182993, 144.488135

Beschreibung

Two short walls formed by a large split boulder. There are some great face holds on these walls, but as with all rock at Black Hill please try to climb as gently as possible so the holds remain on the walls for the enjoyment of future climbers.

Zustieg

After turning right from the base track towards Virgin Summit Tor you will see three walls on the hill to the right after 100m or so. Hollow Rock is the chasm formed by the lower/right of these walls.

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Beschreibung

The collection of small boulders on the hill above the obvious 'meadows' at the NW corner of the park, where the base track swings east. The large block of 'Lip Service' is an obvious marker.

Zustieg

5-10min from carpark depending on motivation.

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Übersicht

Some excellent high ball eggs and a great low ball corner...

Beschreibung

A large group of boulders sitting above track and the olive grove to on the Northern side of the park. A few slabs here probably warrant attention too but give consideration for proximity to the track.

Einschränkungen

Follow the base track until a largish outcrop appears on the right with an obvious under cling flake that peters out mid slab. The warm up boulder is immediately right with many more scattered to the west of the outcrop.

Geschichte

Again... many of these were probably done a long time ago.

Summary:

Bouldern und traditionelles Klettern

Beschreibung

After the Olive Grove is a group of large blocks immediately adjacent the track. The fused corner feature of 'Boundary Rider' is obvious on the largest block.

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -37.180923, 144.491610

Beschreibung

Excellent large block approximately 150m downhill from Pumping Ugly Muscle. Can be approached via that cliff line or by contouring gently uphill for 150m from The Boundary Rider.

Zustieg

Via Base Track contour uphill from The Boundary Rider aiming for a distinctive triangular prow. The Block is a imposing 7m high block that comes into view behind the prow. The listed problems are on the opposite side. From PUM head downhill to The Stack. The Block is downhill and slightly right with an obvious amazing dyke feature facing uphill.

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Beschreibung

A collection of excellent north facing boulders 50-100m below PUM and Anguish walls.

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Beschreibung

Surprising. An amazing feature of 3 blocks stacked on each other like crazy granite dominoes. The lowest block is a prominant 8m cone shaped block with an East face begging for a couple of bolted slabs... watch this space or get out there and do the work for us all!

Zustieg

Best approach is to head to Pumping Ugly Muscle Wall then simply pour ones self down hill for about 70m to the obvious stacked blocks.

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Beschreibung

The group of boulders either side of the base track in the NE corner of the park (near Static Relief)

Summary:

Bouldern, Klettern und alpines Klettern

Lat / Long: -37.184418, 144.489796

Übersicht

Good old fashioned highballs.

Beschreibung

As above. Great place to get some mileage in.

Einschränkungen

Forest Park - allowed.

Zustieg

Follow the track from the car park; it swings diagonally left along the summit ridge - heading into the bush from here will bring you to The Beast with Two Backs and - further in - The Batman Block. Continue along the track after it straightens out - there should now be visible on the right a scooped boulder with a flake on it. Veer off the track at this point - Monkey Glove Fight that the area is named after is a little down the hill.

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -37.180693, 144.489411

Übersicht

Cluster of blocks around the Northern Lookout

Beschreibung

Jumble of blocks around the signed Northern lookout. All sizes including a few errant carrots above the larger faces.

Zustieg

From the front gate, follow the path up the Ridge track. At the right turn up to the Virgin Summit tor continue on straight a few more metres. Lookout with directional marker will be to your left

Geschichte

Most likely climbed all over by Charlie and many others all undocumented.

Summary:

Sportklettern, traditionelles Klettern und technisches Klettern

Lat / Long: -37.181977, 144.489758

Beschreibung

From the car park go through the gate and follow the jeep track to the left. After about 500m veer right, uphill onto the ridge track. After another 200m you'll come to a sign saying 'Ridge Track 1.7k'. Follow this for another 50m. 'Virgin Summit Tor' is on the right. The first route you come to will be 'Wuss in Boots'.

Summary:

Sportklettern, Bouldern und andere Stile

Lat / Long: -37.182189, 144.492112

Beschreibung

From 'Virgin Summit Tor' go another 50m along the Ridge Track than veer L and down to find 'Half Man, Half Biscuit'.

Use the area topo to orient yourself from here.

Summary:

traditionelles Klettern und Bouldern

Lat / Long: -37.185728, 144.490521

Beschreibung

About half way across the Ridge track is a side track to the East leading into a cave-ish feature amongst a tangle of massive boulders adjacent the track.

Einschränkungen

Climbing is discouraged on the main blocks around the cave.

Zustieg

Rainbow and Half Cracks are about 50m South East of the side track on the opposite side of the main boulders. To get to Attack of the Killer Budgies head East down hill past masses of rock (the giant and unclimbed 'beached whale' known as Moby Dick is hard to miss) to the lower tier.

Summary:

Sportklettern, traditionelles Klettern und andere Stile

Lat / Long: -37.187075, 144.490798

Übersicht

You're in the land before time.... A crack climbers paradise!

Beschreibung

A granite outcrop in the middle of Black Hill far enough from the popular climbing areas, paths and roads to make you think that you and the rock are the only things that exist.

Einschränkungen

Watch out for rogue thistles (They are super sharp) and dangerous wildlife (read: a giant brown snake that hangs about near Questionable Paternity). The grass is long and full of terrors....

Zustieg

Walk in from the south entrance. Walk up the path and turn right at the T-intersection, heading north. Walk past two small ponds (on your right) and then past a truck sized boulder (also on your right). Turn left at the first big dead tree (after the boulder) and walk through the scrub and up the hill. You're now in dinosaur country...... Dino Eggs are three giant blocks that guard the Toucan Tor area. South Dino Egg (Bicentenial crack/Questionable Paternity), North Dino Egg (Never Tell me the odds) are easily located. The West Dino Egg (Enter Stage Right, Out of Africa) are around left of the south Dino Egg.

Ethik

Do not retrobolt. Do not bolt anything with cracks. Most obvious lines have been climbed though there is plenty of scope for hard things in between.

Geschichte

Dino rocks has come in and out of vogue over the years with a number of lines established early in Black Hills history. Athol Wimp and Charlie Creese bouldered many of the shorter slab lines in the pre pad era, while Steven Wilson established a number of routes including the area classics Questionable Paternity and Out of Africa. Chris Ferre and Philly Briglia climbed Never Tell me the Odds in 2018, though as with Questionable Paternity it’s Paternity is questionable, with several parties having climbed on/in it over the years.

Summary:

Bouldern, Sportklettern und traditionelles Klettern

Lat / Long: -37.188845, 144.488949

Summary:

Alle Sportklettern

Lat / Long: -37.188772, 144.488484

Summary:

traditionelles Klettern, Bouldern und andere Stile

Lat / Long: -37.313325, 143.717582

Übersicht

Mt Beckworth has very fine grained granite which is friendly on the skin.

Beschreibung

Only a short trip from Melbourne Mt Beckworth is home to some of the best granite bouldering and route climbing in the state! Definiely worth a day trip!

Zustieg

1 and a half hours from Melbourne, Take Sunraysia Hwy North from Ballarat, turn right at Learmonth-Sulky rd and immediately left onto Donovans Rd. At the T intersection turn left onto Addington-Creswick Rd, then right onto Learmonth-Clunes Rd. Turn left onto Coghills Creek Rd then Right onto Fentons. The road will become unsealed and look for Mountain creek road on the left which takes you in to the reserve.

Übernachtung

Clunes, Ballarat or Melbourne

Summary:

traditionelles Klettern, Bouldern und andere Stile

Lat / Long: -37.312631, 143.709391

Beschreibung

The largest single group of Beckworth climbs.

Zustieg

Clearly visible directly uphill from the picnic area known as the Cork Oaks.

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -37.312172, 143.711382

Übersicht

Beautiful red gold granite and unique rock architecture make for some of the best bouldering on the hill. Down the bottom there are even some overhangs!

Beschreibung

"Roll up, roll up! Ladies and gentlemen the Menagerie has creatures both great and small, both cuddly, and deadly. Witness the chilling Reptile Boulder, marvel at the magic of the Wizard Boulder, and be astounded by the unbridled might of the great El Toro! This way, this way; redeem your Scoupon at the gate!"

Jumble of problems in creek depression south of the Menagerie

Zustieg

Walk directly up and over the hill from the Cork Oaks carpark and you will reach the Scoupon boulder on the ridgeline. Alternately follow the hiking track towards The Oval from the Cork Oaks car park, and when you round the bottom of the hill head left and up the dry creek bed towards the Gutterball and Strike boulders.

Ethik

The carny folk of The Menagerie purport to Christianity, but theologically they err towards the antinomian. The intricacy of their moral machinations finds apt analogy in the dexterity of their tiny carny hands. Let us simply say they keep the place clean, and the animals in good temper, and you would do well to do the same.

Geschichte

Discovered and developed 2015.

Summary:

traditionelles Klettern, Sportklettern und Klettern

Lat / Long: -37.309094, 143.715475

Zustieg

The 4WD drive track (Northern Ridge Track) is pretty hairy. A 2wd might make it up the track as far as The Oval (2/3rd's of the way to Baal Rock) but you'd have to be keen. For most it's probably easiest to either walk in up the track or keep driving along cork oaks past the entrance to the NRT, park at the next fork and walk straight up the hill. If you take this approach you will likely come across Acacia rock on the plain first, and Baal Rock is up on the ridge and kind of hidden til you get close.

Summary:

traditionelles Klettern, Klettern und Sportklettern

Summary:

Alle Klettern

Summary:

Alle Klettern

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -37.310853, 143.713128

Beschreibung

The boulder field opposite 'The Menagerie/Gutterball area'

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -37.309945, 143.716639

Übersicht

Take a brush, most of this has sat for 5 years. Good if its hot. Great rock architecture, very different climbing to other areas, more akin to the best rock at Black Hill.

Beschreibung

The first bouldering spot developed on the mountain.

Zustieg

From the park entrance turn left. Follow the road until you get to the large car park on your right. Follow the hiking trail behind you up the hill till you reach the trail fork and head right (away from the trail labelled Beckworth Summit). The Boulders are on either side of this trail 150m in.

Geschichte

The famous Major Mitchell passed through this area in 1836, describing it as ‘...being well covered with trees.’ This eloquent appraisal stood for almost a century until my youthful self described the area as 'pretty sick', noting that I was, unlike Major Mitchell, 'fully psyched' in regard to the granite boulders in the area.

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -37.316830, 143.715109

Übersicht

Spectacular climbing on stunning rock in a wild setting with great views - its pretty much the bomb up here!

Beschreibung

This area is home to some of the best problems, rock and views at Beckworth! Highballs are common and most of the noteworthy stuff up here tends to be hard.

Zustieg

Parking and initial walk in is as for Hillsides. When you reach the signposted fork in the hiking trail which marks the start of the hillsides area, follow the sign left towards Mt. Beckworth summit. Follow this trail until it hits the 4WD track on the ridge line, then follow the 4WD track left up the hill. Just after making a steep climb where the track forms a figure 8, the track passes through a small boulder field, with shoulder high boulders immediately on both sides. Stop here and look around, follow the cairns to get to the classroom area. The Mexico area is immediately bellow the small jagged outcrop 50m downhill and (left) of the trail.

Ethik

RAW VEGAN ONLY - Nah, jokes, everyone is welcome!

Geschichte

Discovered and developed 2015.

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -37.318274, 143.710153

Übersicht

Mount Beckworth summit may have some new hidden gems to offer. We didn't find them, we just hope they're there

Beschreibung

Area behind the lollipop tree, right on the very top of Mount Beckworth

Zustieg

4WD through Southern Ridge Track to Summit or hike from Cork Oaks Campground (~30 minutes)

Summary:

Hauptsächlich traditionelles Klettern

Lat / Long: -37.718846, 145.620465

Übersicht

Described by Mike Law as "possibly the worst cliff in the world, with some of the best climbs", you'll either love it or hate it.

Beschreibung

Ben Cairn is granite outcrop situated about 1.5 hours east of Melbourne. The surrounding area is heavily forested, picturesque but is not suitable for climbing in the winter.

It's a five minute walk in from the road and contains around 40 routes protected by a mixture of bolts and trad gear.

You can belay from the tourist guard railing or set up top ropes. Most routes involve friction slabbing. The rock is very fine grained making slab moves sometimes slippery.

Update: 25 Sep, 2011. Many routes may need cleaning to be safely climbed on lead.

Einschränkungen

[As at 12 March 2018 Ben Cairn Road closed both ends due to landslip. Practically impossible to access].

From Melbourne take the Maroondah Highway to Healesville. Go through town, past the bridge, turn right at Don Rd and go 9.8km to a junction. Keep driving about 8km and the road becomes dirt. You pass a sign stating "Ben Cairn 1040m". Walk 5 minutes up the foot track to gain access to the crag.

Note: Both ends of Ben Cairn Road gated in winter. https://traffic.vicroads.vic.gov.au/ for further access information.

Zustieg

Follow the track marked Ben Cairn from the car park.

Summary:

Alle traditionelles Klettern

Lat / Long: -37.719407, 145.620409

Beschreibung

If you thought the 'Main Cliff' routes were ok then this section is definitely also worth a visit.

Zustieg

This might more accurately be described as the Left part of the cliff, because if you walk south along the top of the 'Main Cliff' you're above 'Pakenham Upper'. Anyway, the best access is probably to abseil in from the trees at the base of the scramble down just L of Raspberry Ripple. You can fairly quickly walk down either end of this section (at the north end start your descent at the base of Skating Away), but it's quite scrubby and surprisingly uneven underfoot.

Summary:

Hauptsächlich traditionelles Klettern

Lat / Long: -37.718581, 145.620611

Beschreibung

The majority of the climbs and traffic occur on the Main Cliff. To access the bottom of the crag either rap down from the safety railings or walk down via either side of the railings. The left side is easier but longer. The right side is short but involves a short slab.

Summary:

traditionelles Klettern, Top Roping und Sportklettern

Lat / Long: -37.846175, 144.269958

Übersicht

Nice little place with easy access from Melbourne. Top-roping or trad to keep you amused for the day with a couple of short sport routes. Bring bolt plates.

Beschreibung

There are ring bolts and fixed hangers set back from the top of the cliff, bring a static line, cordelette or similar if you intend to use them. Be aware of the limited/small gear available and the quality of rock if you're intending to lead in this area. The base of the cliff is split by three major steps and tiers all accessible by walking down from the steps at the top. Please stick to the defined tracks to prevent erosion.

Einschränkungen

The site is closed from 1 August to 30 November due to the peregrine falcon breeding season.

Zustieg

From Anakie drive down the Ballan-Geelong rd and turn right on to Staughton Vale Rd then take a left at Mcleans hwy. After about 1.4km you will reach a car park on the left and then it is a 5 minute walk along the track to the face. The bottom of the crag can be reached by abseil or along a well-formed track on the RHS facing out. Part way down you reach the bottom of the first tier. Continuing a little further brings one to the bottom of an easy angled wall. Top ropes can be arranged from the base of the highest tier using rocks and a large tree. A number of easy routes suitable for groups can be negotiated. Continuing on a few more metres brings one to the base of the main face.

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -37.235105, 144.639924

Beschreibung

Victorian granite bouldering. Easy access with lots of problems scattered across the ridge lines. Only a small selection of problems highlighted here. All lines almost certainly not first ascents with local crew sending problems here for years.

Einschränkungen

Easy drive in access via Ridge Rd. Watch out for 4x4 and motorbikes hammering around.

Summary:

Lat / Long: -37.257446, 144.622835

Beschreibung

Down the hill on the right as you enter the forest via ridge rd

Summary:

Lat / Long: -37.237741, 144.606946

Übersicht

Deeper to the west of Ridge Rd lies a cluster of Boulders extending along the fireline.

Zustieg

accessible via Mansfield Track

Summary:

Lat / Long: -37.228127, 144.628188

Übersicht

Large group of large granite boulders on roadside.

Beschreibung

Large group of large granite boulders on roadside.

Einschränkungen

Immediately next to Ridge Rd on east side.

Zustieg

1 min walk

Summary:

Lat / Long: -37.226916, 144.624148

Beschreibung

Scatted boulders over a large area

Einschränkungen

Various. 2 - 10 mins

Zustieg

Walk off W from Ridge Rd. Boulders are scattered through bush.

Summary:

Lat / Long: -37.224408, 144.635006

Übersicht

Many large boulders along the ridgeline

Beschreibung

On the ridge North of the Ridge Rd West (Roadside Boulders) and Ladder Boulders.

Zustieg

There is a cairn on the roadside, take any dirtbike path up the hill to the ridge.

Ethik

Beware of loose flakes.

Geschichte

Lots has been done here over the years, so the names of Areas, Boulders and Problems are likely to require correction.

Summary:

Lat / Long: -37.226665, 144.631780

Übersicht

The area has several large boulders, one of which has a Robinson Crusoe-esque ladder build onto it.

Beschreibung

Several good problems on vertical terrain and positive holds to pull on, a few hard projects too.

Zustieg

accessible via the wide track just after the Roadside (RidgeWest) Boulders.

Geschichte

Lots has been done here over the years, so the names of Areas, Boulders and Problems are likely to require correction.

Summary:

Lat / Long: -37.221286, 144.638670

Beschreibung

Named after the dirtbike track that provides its approach.

Feel free to update FA's if known.

Zustieg

10 - 20 minutes uphill following the dirt bike track.

Ethik

Minimize off trail walking. Limit chalk use, brush ticks and holds. Be friendly and give way to dirt bikers.

Geschichte

No known history so far. Please update if you are aware!

Beschreibung

East of Ridge Rd, 100m before you reach the Skittle boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: -37.204622, 144.653340

Beschreibung

The very obvious and classic Skittle Boulder and a few other nearby gems

Summary:

Lat / Long: -37.221090, 144.678226

Beschreibung

Some fun slabby stuff accessible via the left most track at the park entrance (junction of ridge road and mckinley track)

Summary:

Lat / Long: -37.252916, 144.605503

Beschreibung

Amazing stone and great shapes but a bit of a trek

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -37.183635, 144.711152

Übersicht

Roadside bouldering an hour from Melbourne and 8 min from Cobaw.

Beschreibung

A small area with a number of nice boulder problems on good quality granite. No walk ins, proximity to Cobaw boulders and a short drive home make it appealing.

Zustieg

From Melbourne take the Tullamarine Fwy/Sunbury Rd towards Lancefeild Rd. Turn right onto Lancefeild road, continuing through Lancefeild on the Lancefeild Tooborac Rd. About 10 minutes past Lancefeild turn left onto Malones Rd. The crags are both off Malones Rd.

Summary:

Lat / Long: -37.178544, 144.717182

Übersicht

3 minute drive from the Feeney Lane area. Worth the drive for Crab Styles.

Beschreibung

Some nice problems, one tricky problem, and a host of easy grade lowballs and traverses. Potential for some more.

Zustieg

All the bouldering is on a narrow ridge line running south to north. Park opposite the 4WD track or if you car has reasonable ground clearance there is a good parking platform for one car just above the road. Walk in is via this 4WD track. After about 60m Grand Entrance should be visible about 60 meters up the hill to your left. The Egg Boulder is on the ridge line 100 meters beyond, and the rest is just behind the ridge line in a cluster 60 meters NW from the Egg Boulder.

Summary:

Lat / Long: -37.188155, 144.706155

Übersicht

The larger of the two areas at Benloch. Nice problems with very easy access.

Beschreibung

Charming highballs and nice low grade problems. The bouldering is clustered within a 200 square meter area. The first problems listed are closest to Feeneys Lane and the last problem listed, 'Pogo's Arete'[1496575488] marks the end of the boulder field, everything else is in between. There is more to develop here if you're keen.

There is poor mobile reception here. Your best bet seems to be near 'Love Slap'.

Einschränkungen

None as of yet. Please park as much off the road as possible and keep a low profile.

Zustieg

The boulders run along the edge of Feeneys Lane, just off Malones Rd. Park on Feeneys Lane (just after reflective street pole #18) and walk 10m up the hill to 'Because Pockets'. Continue uphill to 'Aromatically Challanged'. Assuming you are walking away from the road, head left and a little further uphill to 'Poo-Stain Arrete', 'Grandpa's Crack' and 'The Burrow'. Continue leftward over the hump and you will reach 'Love Slap'. Right of here are 'Cutting Shapes', 'Tough on Crime' and 'Pogo's Arete'.

Ethik

No bolting, no chipping, and please brush all chalk and tick marks.

Summary:

Hauptsächlich Bouldern

Lat / Long: -37.947459, 145.269295

Übersicht

Scattered granite boulders through extensive bushland east of Melbourne.

Beschreibung

Lysterfield has an extensive network of paths, tracks and MTB trails. The bouldering is on granite rock. The rock tends to be sharp, prickly, and generally unkind on the skin, particularly for beginners. Expect ripped hands.

Zustieg

PARKING: Lysterfield aneurism bike carpark 329 Hallam North Road Lysterfield South VIC 3156.

From this car park, follow Valley View Track and this will lead you to Rock Gardens boulders (15min), The Quarry (20min) and Trig Point (25min). Further access details can be found on each area's page.

Ethik

Lysterfield Park is a BOULDERING ONLY area. Please refrain from bolting any routes. All longer routes and highballs can be top-roped without fixed anchors. This park is also shared among bike riders, walkers, and other user groups. Please show respect by giving way to bike riders and keeping your items out of their way.

Keep to designated tracks. All plants, animals, other natural features, and cultural sites are protected and must NOT be disturbed or removed. There is no rubbish collection inside the park, please take all rubbish home with you for recycling and disposal, even if it may not be yours.

No dogs or pets are permitted in the park. Feeding wildlife is bad for their health. It is an offence to feed or leave food where it is accessible to wildlife. Penalties apply. Loud noise can disturb wildlife. Please respect the local wildlife and keep noise to a minimum.

Geschichte

Bouldering at Lysterfield predates the 2000's but there has been little documented. All additions to thecrag may, or may not be accurate. Please update names and FA details where known.

Summary:

Hauptsächlich Bouldern

Lat / Long: -37.940422, 145.268657

Übersicht

Bouldering on top of Trig Hill.

Beschreibung

The furthest and hardest sector to find.

Zustieg

From the Hallam North Rd Car Park follow Valley View Track for 20 minutes then turn L onto Lysterfield Hills Track up to Trig Point. Once there, walk north to find a selectively cleared track through the boneseed that leads easily to the large MP boulder. Look closely and you'll find the path. There are a number of satellite boulders around the main MP boulder (named for the initials carved on top and home to Tipping Point).

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -37.953321, 145.261951

Übersicht

Small Quarry down the Stonemasons track.

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -37.944280, 145.280325

Übersicht

Probably the easiest and best of the accessible areas.

Beschreibung

A variety of grades which are accessible for beginners and more seasoned climbers alike.

Zustieg

From the car park, walk on Valley View Track for about 15 minutes until you come to an intersection. Directly ahead is the "Rock Garden" walk. Follow this trail for approximately 100 metres and then cut right for about 30 metres. There should be scattered boulders around the area with a MTB trail going through it.

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -37.943213, 145.277323

Übersicht

A small quarry down Valley View Track on the right-hand side of the track.

Beschreibung

A few lines on the left side of the quarry are okay. The right side seems to be choss.

Zustieg

From the car park, follow Valley View Track until you see the quarry on your right. There is a well-worn footpath. Approximately 20 minutes walk.

Summary:

Hauptsächlich Bouldern

Lat / Long: -37.706866, 144.502948

Übersicht

Bouldering and top roping in a convenient location. Ease of access and ever-present shade make it a perfect summer crag.

Beschreibung

Basalt face climbing on sloping edges, crimps and cool pockets; there's something for everyone here. The area tends toward tiny lowballs and scary highballs, with little in the middle. The main cliff is easily top roped though, so take pads or a rope, pending on preference and courage.

Einschränkungen

None as yet. The crag is in a state park, but very close to houses. Keep the noise down and park well off the road.

Zustieg

All areas are accessed directly from Riverview Drive. To access the westernmost areas, walk up the obvious vehicle track by the fence line. The ground is mainly loose rock, and loose rock hidden by vegetation. Watch your step and expect things to move underfoot.

Ethik

With the city so close, one might expect the crag to be imbued with all the urgencies of modern life, and the rapid social change and moral relativism this entails. Instead, it lingers as a haven for the universalist; the moral absolutist whose boundaries linger, defying the precepts of Melbourne's category-less and ever-vaping youth.

Ethical musings aside, don't bolt and don't trash the joint.

Geschichte

Discovered by local, Brett during COVID - and then by Evan.C about 3 hours post lockdown - the two started at opposite ends and eventually met in the middle (literally). Joe Tynan assisted with heavy lifting, mainly of trash, which sadly had to be packed out en-mass in industrial bin bags from Bunnings (seriously, those things are great).

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -37.704772, 144.498214

Übersicht

Named in honour of Jason Kehl after the discovery of a decapitated doll.

Beschreibung

Steep, techy climbing. Rad.

Einschränkungen

None.

Zustieg

Follow the fence-line west to a slight clearing by a cliff edge. Look for a narrow (60cm wide) break in the rock, lower yourself into the crack and scramble down to the boulder.

Ethik

Real Climbing TM: https://www.youtube.com/user/cryptoch1ld

Summary:

Hauptsächlich Bouldern

Lat / Long: -37.707249, 144.502659

Übersicht

A large area full of easy, approachable climbs with simple access. Notably beginner friendly.

Beschreibung

Some great easy problems and a few tricky ones. Toes Around the World is mandatory for all.

Einschränkungen

None.

Zustieg

A gentle incline and some natural stone steps lead you straight in from the fence.

Ethik

Don't bolt without consultation.

Geschichte

Originally discovered by bees, the area was later found and developed by Brett, Evan and Jamie, who attend it periodically. The bees however, are a permanent fixture.

Summary:

Hauptsächlich Bouldern

Lat / Long: -37.707043, 144.503621

Beschreibung

It's a pit. Not the kind you find in stone fruit, but rather a giant hole you can get into and then climb out of. Most things here are more serious undertakings.

Einschränkungen

None.

Zustieg

Take care. Hop onto the top of the blocks via obvious path, then scramble down the far side. Up and over for Fire in the Hole etc. Back on yourself through the chasm past Hard Cheese for the rest.

Ethik

Don't bolt without consultation.

Geschichte

The Pit exists outside of time.

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -37.706905, 144.504414

Übersicht

Some cool problems, a hard problem and a lot of polystyrene. More to come here on ropes.

Beschreibung

A smaller area. Leave this one for later if you've not checked out the rest.

Einschränkungen

None.

Zustieg

Drop down from the fence-line. You're there.

Ethik

Don't bolt without consultation.

Geschichte

Polystyrene was discovered by Eduard Simon 1839. Years later, someone produced a huge amount of it, and someone else (I'm presuming but it feels safe) dumped it in this basalt labyrinth, along with some white goods and half a car. Honestly, it hardly feels like Eduard's fault at this stage.

Summary:

Hauptsächlich Bouldern

Lat / Long: -37.706801, 144.506136

Übersicht

A high volume of good climbing in a small area, with varied grades and styles. Strongly recommended.

Beschreibung

An long cliff band provides a wide range of taller problems on sloping breaks and crazy pockets. Top roping these problems is easy and entirely worth while. Shorter buttresses and blocks round the area out, providing simple but entertaining problems.

Einschränkungen

None.

Zustieg

If you parked near the lamp post on the eastern end of Riverview Drive, congrats, your already there. Cross the fence and make a short scramble to the base of the main wall. Alternately (and if you have kids), cross the fence and follow it 80m or so to the end of the main cliff band, where you can walk in sans scramble.

Ethik

Don't bolt without consulting.

Geschichte

Everything is recent.

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Übersicht

Coopers comprises of a number of natural Basalt edges with extremely easy access.

Beschreibung

The area comprises of a numerous vertical walls and aretes split by cracks and offers a range of boulder problems on clean pocketed Basalt,

The walls all appear to be on public land.

Grades are only approximates. They are a combination of old notes, memory and recent repeats as I work my way along the whole crag again.

Einschränkungen

None as yet. Please don't make me regret making this spot public.

Coopers primarily consists of easier problems, but doesn’t make it is an ideal spot for beginners. Bouldering here isn’t the same as bouldering indoors!

Many of the landings are rough and sloping. The top outs are not always obvious. The problems are still shedding holds or require you to know how to pull correctly on loose rock.

Be mindful that Coopers is in one of the few remaining wildlife corridors in the area as Melbourne continues to spread outwards. As a result you will see many Kangaroos and other wildlife including Echidna’s. So leave your dog at home! Avoid trampling the native vegetation; though feel free to bring gardening gloves and remove weeds.

Keep the area clean! Take away rubbish even if not yours. Brush chalk off the holds and if you need to use tick marks, wash them off before you move on to the next problem.

Respect the location. If you can I may consider making some of my other local areas public.

Zustieg

Given what is happening with access due to PV's blindside in the Grampians (plus Arapiles and my sources mention PV have their sights on Camel's and Mt Alexander), I am not publishing the location at this time.

Unfortunately I started adding this area prior to the Grampians access issues and now want to see how that pans out first.

Geschichte

Martin Lama found this area in 2006 and developed the Main Sector around that time. After a 10 year break, he came back and developed the Northern most sector. Like most areas around Melbourne, it may have been discovered previously.

Summary:

Beschreibung

This is the longest sector and offers the most problems. Faces West so best in Winter. Beware of snakes any time of year!

What makes this particularly special is the lack of wide horizontal breaks often prevalent with Basalt.

Abstieg

There are three main descent options.

50m South of * is a well trafficked animal pad.

40m North of * is a steep stepped gully conveniently located in the middle of the sector.

Northern end of the sector is another well trafficked animal pad.

Geschichte

Like most areas may have been discovered previously. Martin Lama in his decades long search around Melbourne found this edge in 2006. He enlisted the help of Chris Smolka to clean and develop the cliff systematically ticking nearly all the lines. The main sector also saw a visit or two by Phil Neville who cleaned up a couple of the remaining harder lines.

Übersicht

Occasional lesser edges and boulders can be found scattered beyond the Northeastern group. Small but fun.

Summary:

Beschreibung

Small section of edge offering a few nice problems including a fine arete.

Faces North

Zustieg

Less than 100m from the car. Park and head north to the edge

Abstieg

When above and looking North. Easy scramble down the right end.

Geschichte

Developed by Martin Lama in October 2016

Slowly adding problems to the guide here as I revisit them.

Summary:

Beschreibung

The Northeast sector comprises of a number of blocks on a steep slope. This makes for some challenging landings and unfortunately the farmer previously used this outcrop as a tip!

If anywhere else around town it would still be a great find as there are some good lines. Here though it is overshadowed by the Northern and Main sectors.

Due to the aspect the outcrop sees little winter sun, so the rock and surrounds can be very wet even if it hasn't rained for days!

Zustieg

If the creek is low it is possible to rockhop across the creek at the sectors Southern end. Otherwise park at the Main sector carpark and walk NW ~10 minutes.

Abstieg

A number of breaks in the edge allow for an easy descent.

Geschichte

Developed during the winter of 2020.

Summary:

Beschreibung

Very short Basalt edge closest to the road. Unfortunately unlike the other sectors also has a number of wide horizontal breaks.

Till now, only use has been as a launching ramp for stolen cars!

Faces Northeast and sees winter sun for most of the day.

Abstieg

Easy descent either end.

Geschichte

Investigated at the same time as the other sectors, but as the shortest and most broken it was left till the other sectors were developed.

Karl was the first to actually climb here doing the stand start of Soft Shoe Shuffle in 2019. The rest started to be added in 2020

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -38.150904, 144.307818

Übersicht

In Buckley Falls, there is only one good boulder, but this boulder does hold a number of worthwhile lines. Classics on the boulder include Bulbasaur V5, Direct Proof V6, and Dorsiflexion V7.

Zustieg

From the Buckley Falls Lookout on Buckley Falls Road, walk right about 50m and then go down a big set of stairs. At the bottom, turn left and follow an overgrown, rocky track for about 100m. This track will take you directly to the main boulder.

Ethik

Be as low impact as possible - carry out all rubbish, brush off any tick marks, and avoid damaging vegetation where possible.

Geschichte

Climbing in Buckley Falls has occurred a handful of times in the past, but more serious development of the area begun in March 2023.

Summary:

Lat / Long: -38.150895, 144.308237

Beschreibung

Buckley Falls Boulder holds a number of worthy lines, some of which are a bit contrived but still fun nonetheless. Classics on the boulder include Bulbasaur V5, Direct Proof V6, and Dorsiflexion V7.

Zustieg

From the Buckley Falls Lookout on Buckley Falls Road, walk right about 50m and then go down a big set of stairs. At the bottom, turn left and follow an overgrown, rocky track for about 100m. This track will take you directly to the boulder.

Summary:

Hauptsächlich Bouldern

Lat / Long: -38.352911, 145.009573

Übersicht

PLEASE BE AWARE THAT THE ROUTES AND BOULDER PROBLEMS DESCRIBED AROUND THE MORNINGTON PENINSULA ARE OFTEN ON LESS THAN PERFECT ROCK WITH QUESTIONABLE LANDINGS AT TIMES. IT IS NOT A WELL ESTABLISHED CLIMBING AREA. TREAD GENTLY, CAREFULLY AND MINDFUL OF WHERE YOU ARE. IF IN DOUBT DON'T DO IT. HAVING SAID ALL THAT IT IS A BEAUTIFUL PLACE JUST TO BE. Far from world class but for the super keen or just plain desperate there are a few pockets of climbable rock dotted around The Peninsula. One thing's for certain. Queues won't be a problem!

Beschreibung

Although most of the "rock" of the Mornington Peninsula could be removed with a child's beach bucket and spade, years of dedicated (desperate) searching have revealed a few boulders and short edges that will (usually) support bodyweight. There are even a few gear placements that wouldn't explode if a moth flew by. Seriously, there is some easy, and a few bits of not so easy, if cautious fun to be had around the coastline and hills of Mornington Peninsula. Just bring your imagination.

Einschränkungen

All documented areas have free access.

Ethik

NO BOLTS. TO PRESERVE WHAT LITTLE AVAILABLE ADVENTURE WE HAVE DOWN HERE, PLEASE LEAVE DRILLS AT HOME.

Geschichte

A few salty pegs indicate that others have passed by some of these locations but other than Bushranger Bay nothing has been previously documented in a way that provides any information widely available. The old VCC Eastern District guide vaguely mentions a couple of routes near Elephant Rock at Bushranger Bay but locating the routes from the descriptions is near impossible. After migrating from the UK in 2007 Karl Bromelow started his desperate search for climbable rock close to his home in Rye. Having come from the heart of British gritstone and limestone climbing, his newfound distance from recognised rock climbing was quite a shock to the system. Realising that a change of attitude, as to what defined climbable rock was necessary, he set about exploring and documenting everything that was above knee height and that could poentially hold bodyweight, if you think light thoughts. The mission was, and continues to be, a quest for little adventures in an unlikely location. Karl's son Kai Seth Robertson and the überstrong Andrew Johnson were employed to uncover and send anything too hard for the ageing bumbly to drag himself up. A little later Fraser Gust engaged their formidable creativity and opened some equally unlikely possibilities along the coastline of the town of Mornington itself. A few others have since been foolish enough to toy with the esoteric pleasures of Peninsula climbing and contributed their own lines to this anomaly in the world of ascent.

Summary:

Hauptsächlich Bouldern

Lat / Long: -38.236398, 145.052508

Übersicht

Some iffy routes but some good fun.

Beschreibung

Along the mornington coasts there's a few boulders and cliffsides that'll hold up your weight and actually offer a bit of fun. The rocks a bit sharp and some of the routes are a bit short and contrived but if you're in the area, might as well give it a look. All grades are a rough guide

Einschränkungen

Best to head there at low tide.

Summary:

Bouldern, traditionelles Klettern und andere Stile

Lat / Long: -38.284918, 144.993037

Beschreibung

The granite coastline below The Esplanade between Safety Beach and Mount Martha's shopping hub provides a few fun boulder problems and a few higher sectors (including Seth Zawn) with some ropeworthy routes and "Deep Water Solos" on sound rock. With a little imagination there is much fun to be had. NO BOLTS PLEASE.

Ethik

NO BOLTS PLEASE.

Summary:

Hauptsächlich Bouldern

Lat / Long: -38.488263, 144.970656

Übersicht

Another esoteric spot for the adventurous boulderer and climber. Bring your imagination. Clean up before you go. Keep it wild. LEAVE YOUR DRILLS BEHIND. https://youtu.be/4IdPezcBLi8

Beschreibung

BEWARE THE POSSIBILITY OF MASSIVE ROCKFALL FROM THE CLIFFS ABOVE. RECENT ACTIVITY INDICATES THAT THE CLIFFS ARE CURRENTLY UNSTABLE AND CLIMBING HERE INVOLVES RECOGNISING THE OBVIOUS RISKS. A few small basalt edges below the high cliffs east of Cairns Bay beach provide a number of entertaining boulder problems, many climbed by Kai Seth Robertson, Andrew Johnson, Mandy Robertson and Karl Bromelow starting in 2007. A few of those climbed are listed below but most lines have been ascended. The edges have been named somewhat nostalgically after the gritstone edges of the English Peak District. Please don't expect the quality of the climbing to even approach that of their namesakes.

Einschränkungen

Free access

Zustieg

For the first developed boulder problems and routes, follow the public path from the Ti Tree Creek parking area, on the road from Flinders to Cape Schack, down to the beach and then follow the fisherman's path on the far side of the bay, under the cliffs and across the reef to the edges. Tricky at very high tide or huge swell but usually ok. Little Froggatt is reached first and includes all problems as far as Little Freerider. A gap then separates this from Little Curbar and some distance further around can be found Little Stanage and The Pap. Much further beyond is the rock arch of The Far East. Back to the bay and heading west , either at very low tide and low swell or down from the grassy plateau above is another small bay, Little Cat's Bay.

Ethik

NO BOLTING PLEASE

Geschichte

Originally recorded as a bouldering venue by Karl Bromelow during his early desperate searches for climbable rock on the Peninsula. Most routes and problems have been subsequently developed by Karl, his son Kai, good friend Andrew Johnson with an addition or two from Fraser Gust.

Summary:

Hauptsächlich Bouldern

Lat / Long: -38.359380, 144.963692

Übersicht

You'd think, wouldn't you, that a big lump of granite like this would have climbing? Well it has, but not nearly as much as you might expect. A desperate pom has managed to unearth (literally in one case) some things to pull on. Deep in the bush there may be more but it'll be a mission if you take it on. If you are equally desperate, or just happy to wander and explore, you can have fun up on Wonga. Might as well give it a go. NO BOLTS PLEASE.

Beschreibung

Hidden amongst the bush on the higher slopes of Wonga (Arthurs Seat and Red Hill) are a few granite boulders and edges with some worthwhile problems. The very definition of esoteric.

Einschränkungen

Interesting

Zustieg

Search and you may find. Then leave it vague for others to enjoy the process and for obvious reasons.

Übernachtung

Safe

Ethik

Trad. No bolts.

Geschichte

Scoured relentlessly by Karl Bromelow since 2007 and his transplantation to the peninsula from God's Own Yorkshire.

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -38.475514, 144.884666

Übersicht

Adventurous bouldering in a stunning location. Afternoon low tide and sunny weather are a must if you want dry holds and dry feet.

Beschreibung

A handful of problems on bullet hard, pocketed limestone. A day of high octane crushing this is not. You're here for the adventure and the setting. The bouldering is just a delightful bonus.

Einschränkungen

You're in the national park, so follow all signs and regulations. Check the Parks website before you visit: https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/mornington-peninsula-national-park

Zustieg

Park at the Fingal picnic area just off Cape Schanck Rd. Take the Coastal Walk trail north west towards Gunnamatta beach, then follow the signs to trend left down the stairs to Fingal. From the bottom of the stairs head south (turn left) along the beach. Follow the coast line for 400m to just beyond the first boulders over the pebble beach and you're there.

Ethik

Do better than the hikers. Leave no traces, yours or other peoples. Pack out any trash you find and keep the place pretty.

Geschichte

Karl Bromelow has been climbing here since 2008, and Evan Campbell since 2019. Working backwards in the sequence, one presumes climbers find the spot in 11 year increments, with probable discoveries in 1997, 1986, 1975, and so on and so forth.

Summary:

Hauptsächlich traditionelles Klettern

Lat / Long: -38.494028, 144.910566

Übersicht

Bring an open mind and adventurous spirit. The basalt hereabouts is not terribly trustworthy. However, with an acceptance of it's limitations, a curious mind and a careful approach it is possible to have a lot of fun that satisfies a rock starved climber in beautiful surroundings. Not a place for inexperienced climbers, bolt warriors or gym climbers. More the haunt of those with a wild look in the eye, a love of nature and hairy socks. Love it or loathe it. ABSOLUTELY NO BOLTING PLEASE.

Beschreibung

The basalt of Elephant Rock at the eastern end of Bushranger Bay is solid enough to allow a number of routes to be top roped and in a few places is good enough for trad protection to hold. Caution is necessary though as it is far from the most bullet proof medium.

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -38.302061, 144.990793

Übersicht

Seaside bouldering

Beschreibung

Limited but good problems on pretty reasonable granite over relatively level landings.

Einschränkungen

Free access but tidal.

Zustieg

Parking is available by the bus stop just south of the Marine Drive/Ellerina Road junction on the climb out of Safety Beach (Shark Bay) heading north. A footpath leads down to the cobble beach.

Geschichte

First recorded efforts early 2022 by Kai Seth Robertson.

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -38.355869, 144.900882

Übersicht

just outside the rosebud beach is the shell, made of some bricky things with fortunately crumbling mortar which makes barely possible crimps to work with.

Beschreibung

a couple surprisingly not terrible routes to puzzle over for an hour or so. Mind out for the faeces on some of the jugs and the odd bit of rosebud decor (needles and broken glass).

Einschränkungen

passerby's seem pretty chill with climbers, nonetheless don't be a dick and you probably wont have any issues (plus if people can see that climbers are just people we might slowly change the perception of us in regards to many of the climbing bans)

Zustieg

park in the car park just outside of the bowl

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -38.163492, 145.089814

Übersicht

Bay at the top-end of the peninsula with a couple decent bouldering spots

Beschreibung

very sharp and crumbly rock

Zustieg

park at the end of Daveys bay road and walk down to the beach

Ethik

Only climb designated routes as most of the rock is crumbly and unsafe

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -38.496986, 144.887153

Übersicht

Basalt edges with all the usual warnings about tides and suspect rock. Treat all adventures in this place with real caution. If in doubt, stay away.

Beschreibung

Boulder problems and microroutes on less than perfect rock and an uncomfortable distance from help with a bust ankle.

Einschränkungen

Tidal approaches. Serious possibilities of getting cut off. Big swells and unstable cliffs prevail.

Zustieg

Down the steps and around the coast westward at low tide and low swell. Anything else is not wise and could lead to being trapped.

Übernachtung

Home.

Ethik

No fixed hardware ever, minimal chalk and brush/wash it off when your done.

Geschichte

Ancient and modern. Bouldered for many years by Kai and Karl. A sensitive area so be respectful and careful. Leave it as you found it. Some parts here are deliberately left unrecorded for obvious reasons. The Humpback is a rock feature with some reasonably solid holds and acceptable access from the beach at the end of the steps by navigating west around the cliff base at low tide with low swell. Other areas should remain unreported and unpromoted.

Übersicht

Below the collapsing cliffs and along the ocean beaches of Rye, Blairgowrie and Sorrento. This is by by no definition a worthwhile bouldering venue. At low tide there are numerous accessible caves and blocs of varying degrees of snapiness from very snappy to extremely snappy. Expect one or two moves at most. However, a closer inspection reveals the odd patch of rock that might last long enough for you to pull past it! Awful, ankle destroying landings predominate. Adventurous, rock starved spirits prevail.

Einschränkungen

Watch tide and swell carefully. Many drownings have occured along this coast. It is not a safe place by any stretch of the imagination.

Zustieg

Multiple approaches.

Geschichte

Explored relentlessly in desperation by Karl Bromelow since 2007. Probably before by others.

Summary:

Hauptsächlich Bouldern

Summary:

Alle traditionelles Klettern

Lat / Long: -38.510077, 145.233676

Übersicht

A variety of rock and areas approximately an hour and half drive from Melbourne.

Beschreibung

A large island on the eastern side of Western Post Bay with a variety of crags with Cape Woolami being the biggest.

Zustieg

Take the M1 Monash Freeway out of Melbourne to the east then the then onto the M420 South Gippsland Freeway all the way to Anderson where it becomes the B420 to San Remo and over the bridge onto the Island and Cowes.

Übernachtung

Plenty of caravan parks, BnBs and Hotels to pick from.

Ethik

Trad, mixed and bouldering all exist.

Summary:

Lat / Long: -38.555893, 145.352294

Übersicht

A wild and beautiful area offering varied quality climbing but always a grand day out!

Beschreibung

Pink granite sea cliffs located on Phillip Island, just over the bridge from the mainland. Not for the inexperienced. Tides, weather, and choss may dictate your approach and retreat so be prepared. Fixed protection is not trustworthy; bring slings for rap anchors. Wearing a helmet here is a very good idea.

Einschränkungen

This is a sea cliff, so tides are an obvious factor. Check charts before departing. Grassy areas atop the cliffs are rookeries for mutton birds and penguins, so stick to established tracks. Nest burrows will collapse if trodden on. Footpads leading inland are are experiencing erosion and may lead to access issues in the future. This is a special and unique environment, so read the signs and behave accordingly

Zustieg

From the Wollamai beach carpark, follow the beach/walking track towards the headlands visible to the southeast. While it is possible to access from the lookout area after ascending a flight of steps away from the beach, the erosion caused from people taking this route to get down is significant. It would be much better to stick to the coast, and hop along the rocks until you reach the destination, a very pleasant outing. High tide along the coast is usually fine, and usually only leads to wet feet if you fail to time your waves, but this should only be a major consideration if the weather is bad.

Übernachtung

Nearby Phillip Island towns Rhyll and Cowes, and San Remo just over the bridge offer a variety of accommodation

Ethik

Trad ethic predominates, largely due to the the short lifespan of fixed steel in the salty spray. Anchors are often slung bollards so bring some tat to lower off

Geschichte

Having seen some climbing over previous decades, there's been renewed interest in recent years

Beschreibung

For a rock starved climber on a Phillip Island family holiday, this short rocky point will at least allow a session or two on its very featured volcanic rock.

Posted only for completeness. You would really need to be desperate!

Zustieg

Park at the Mussel Rocks Picnic area on the Esplanade (just East of Walpole St) in Cowes.

Stairs lead down to the beach with the rocks just a few metres East.

Geschichte

Mentioned on Chockstone back in 2003.

Übersicht

PAGE UNDER CONSTRUCTION

Local bluestone and buildering climbs.

Übersicht

Canal lined with ~150m of bluestone. Lots of traversing!

Zustieg

TBC

Ethik

Clean chalk after climbing

Summary:

traditionelles Klettern, Klettern und andere Stile

Lat / Long: -37.681453, 144.046638

Summary:

Alle Klettern

Lat / Long: -37.683848, 144.076668

Übersicht

esoteric crag: short crappy climbs on dubious tilted mudstone slabs set in a nice location

Einschränkungen

high clearance 2wd helps. refer vcc south-west guide for more info.

Übernachtung

some good campsites next to the river

Ethik

none

Summary:

Alle Klettern

Lat / Long: -37.683936, 144.077112

Summary:

Alle Klettern

Lat / Long: -37.649738, 144.038622

Beschreibung

Area is banned by local Council due to the very unstable nature of the area.

Summary:

Alle traditionelles Klettern

Summary:

Alle traditionelles Klettern

Summary:

Alle Sportklettern

Summary:

Sportklettern, traditionelles Klettern und andere Stile

Summary:

Klettern, traditionelles Klettern und Sportklettern

Beschreibung

Multiple 4-5m climbs/boulder problems, mostly at about grade 2.

Zustieg

Go NE from where you parked your car down to the bridle path, or head east and downhill along Bridle Path from Biomorph Rocks. until track down ridge from carpark is reached. Head N up side valley.

Summary:

Bouldern und traditionelles Klettern

Zustieg

Get to Bridle Path by heading down ridge from car park. follow this towards river. Just prior to river, head up valley to West.

Summary:

Alle traditionelles Klettern

Zustieg

As for Khyber Pass, but continue to river and then follow western bank up stream for about 200m. This outcrop will be up to your left (West).

Summary:

Sportklettern, traditionelles Klettern und Bouldern

Beschreibung

Xanthorrhea rocks contain some of the best rock in this area, but still steep and slippery terrain.

Zustieg

As for Hieroglyph Rocks, follow Bridle Path to river. This time cross the river (wade). The cliff line faces NW and towards the river of the L side of the ridge approx. 5min from river crossing.

Abstieg

Down either end of cliff. Steep and loose.

Summary:

Sportklettern, traditionelles Klettern und Klettern

Zustieg

As for Xanthorroea Rocks until across the river, but then head up to top of spur. Bungle Slab rocks are three large boulders located off the right side of the spur and approx. 100m before the fence line at the top of the spur and forming an upside down triangle.

Abstieg

Down either side on steep, loose ground

Summary:

Sportklettern, traditionelles Klettern und Klettern

Beschreibung

This outcrop is a type of slate. The east side forms a 52 degree slab. The Southwest face is steeper.

Zustieg

Follow bridle path to river, cross over and go up spur as for Bungle Slab Rocks. From top of spur follow the rough track parallel to the fence line to R for approx. 400m until an open spur is found heading down. There might be a small cairn and a roll of wire. Head down spur for approx. 70-80m. You should be on the top of the outcrop. There is a BB and a DBB.

Abstieg

Descend down either side, the R (looking out) was easier at last visit. very steep, loose and slippery.

Summary:

traditionelles Klettern und Sportklettern

Summary:

Sportklettern und Klettern

Lat / Long: -37.831552, 144.123824

Summary:

Klettern und Sportklettern

Lat / Long: -37.831599, 144.122814

Beschreibung

15-20 metre high tilted shale-like rock slab dissected by several large cracks

Zustieg

http://www.chockstone.org/Meredith/MeredithMap.htm

Summary:

Alle Sportklettern

Lat / Long: -37.831660, 144.124643

Beschreibung

poor cousin to oxbow rocks. 6m broken cliff with no worthwhile climbs.

Zustieg

as for oxbow

Summary:

Alle Sportklettern

Lat / Long: -37.860871, 144.131651

Beschreibung

Small crumbly slate wall.

Zustieg

Short walk in through shrubs

Summary:

Hauptsächlich Klettern

Lat / Long: -37.913765, 145.749825

Beschreibung

Seven Acre Rock resides deep within the Yarra State Forest about an hour and a half east of Melbourne. There are a limited number of routes, most involve friction slabbing and runouts on bolts. Bouldering problems can be found on the hillside.

Einschränkungen

To get to Seven Acre Rock from Yarra Junction take the C425 and head towards Powelltown for 14.8kms. Turn right at "Learmonth Creek Road" (unsealed) for 8.5 - 9kms then turn left onto Bunyip Road at a T intersection. (Do turn at either of the two preceding lefts). You come to a picnic area with a marked foot track leading off on the left.

Übersicht

A variety of bolders and granite tors, from knee high to two story house sized, unloved and leaf littered on the western slopes immediately below Egg Rock fire tower.

Beschreibung

From bald and bold to eminently trad protectable cracks. Almost buried beneath a generation of fallen branches and leaf mould.

Zustieg

Follow Egg Rock track then plunge over the western slopes.

Übernachtung

Home maybe 😉

Ethik

Leave your drills at home please.

Geschichte

Ancient.

Summary:

Sportklettern, Klettern und Traversieren

Lat / Long: -37.468798, 144.499500

Beschreibung

30/11/2020 A recent rockfall event recently removed the top of the crag and filled the path below with debris. Moisture now permeating right through the slate leaving it unstable.

DO NOT CLIMB HERE

DO NOT TRUST ANY OF THE BOLTS!

DO NOT ENTER CAVE AT TOP OF CRAG, LOOSE BLOCKS IN VICINITY

Summary:

Hauptsächlich traditionelles Klettern

Lat / Long: -37.884367, 145.597180

Übersicht

A house size boulder with a couple of extra leaning blocks close to Gembrook.

Beschreibung

The main block has a number of routes, scant protection but multiple new anchors on top for rigging TRs or abseils. The rock is good quality granite with several intruding dykes providing welcome holds. There's more moss than anything else, and you're right on the walking track, but it might provide a few hours entertainment.

Einschränkungen

Free access

Zustieg

Easy approach from the picnic area car park a short walk down the waterfall track.

Geschichte

Seemingly developed primarily by Danny, Dave, Ken, Joe and Mike Adshead in the 90s. More problems and variants than those listed have been done.

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -37.701759, 144.580087

Übersicht

Plenty of broken glass and bogans on a warm summer evening

Beschreibung

The "cliff face" is probably only 6m tall at it's peak. Some of the rock is friable, some is ok...

Einschränkungen

Watch out for broken glass and snakes

Zustieg

Exit the Western Highway turning L into Coburns Rd. Turn L at the first traffic lights (Richard Rd) and follow to T intersection with Station Rt. Tun R into Station Rd and the L into Fraser St (2nd left). Continue along throuh sweeping right hand turn and park opposite Mcdonald St. Look L and enjoy your climbing.

Summary:

Klettern, Sportklettern und andere Stile

Lat / Long: -37.885238, 146.355792

Übersicht

Mt Erica Rocks provides a vast number of high quality granite boulders with very high frictional properties The boulders are situated amongst scenic alpine forest.

Beschreibung

Most of the routes are carrot bolted, so you could get away with a sport climbers rack, though there are a few trad cracks to climb. Mostly the routes are not that tall and most are quite hard to get up.

Einschränkungen

To gain access from Melbourne drive to Moe in the north-east of the state via the Princess Hwy, and take the road to the locality of Erica. About 10kms afterwards, turn left to the signposted Mt Erica, and drive on up. Take the walking track from the car park for about 30 minutes to the boulder field.

Zustieg

Most of the climbs are located around the Mushroom Rocks area. About 30 minutes walk or 1.7km from the carpark there is a small campsite on the left, marked with a "Fuel Stove Area - Campfires Not Permitted" sign. Poet Rock is 15m up the path, on the right.

Summary:

Alle Klettern

Summary:

Alle traditionelles Klettern

Lat / Long: -37.884633, 146.356847

Zustieg

The approach path has been realigned since the 1988 Eastern District guide. Poet Rock now sits on the right side of the track, just past the "Fuel Stove Area" sign. The path passes the rock just below Crack At The Back

Summary:

Alle Sportklettern

Lat / Long: -37.884946, 146.356431

Beschreibung

Large boulder with two slab routes. Will clean up with traffic, particularly if they swap their shoes for scourers

Zustieg

50 along from Poet Rock, the left side of the track brushes a pinnacle with a boulder balancing on top. Palm Beach is the larger boulder behind with the climbs being on the far side of the boulder

Summary:

Alle Sportklettern

Lat / Long: -37.884968, 146.356477

Summary:

Alle Sportklettern

Lat / Long: -37.885022, 146.356573

Summary:

Alle Sportklettern

Lat / Long: -37.884860, 146.356261

Beschreibung

Directly north and across the path from Palm Beach Rock is a grubby, low angled crack. Cuba rocks is the collection of boulders behind this.

Summary:

Alle Klettern

Lat / Long: -37.885214, 146.355802

Summary:

Alle Klettern

Summary:

Alle traditionelles Klettern

Summary:

Alle Klettern

Summary:

Alle Klettern

Summary:

Hauptsächlich Klettern

Summary:

Alle Klettern

Summary:

traditionelles Klettern, Sportklettern und andere Stile

Lat / Long: -37.279742, 144.242380

Summary:

traditionelles Klettern, Top Roping und Klettern

Summary:

Sportklettern und traditionelles Klettern

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Summary:

Beschreibung

Old bridge support mount

Summary:

Bouldern und Klettern

Lat / Long: -38.538294, 143.959938

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -38.517369, 143.982246

Beschreibung

Many creek bed boulders and faces with potential for king lines. Much cleaning and multiple mats and spotters required to develop the larger faces here. The rock can be chossy in places, but solid lines can be found.

Zustieg

Enter from the Stony Creek park, over the bridge and follow the path up to the sloping waterfall. Walk up the falls and at the top the fun begins! The next kilometre or more is dotted with large boulders and vertical faces. Routes listed as you would come across them walking up the creek.

Summary:

traditionelles Klettern und Bouldern

Lat / Long: -37.965402, 145.633783

Übersicht

small boulder outcrop located at four brothers lookout.

Beschreibung

various sized boulders with few routes. main climbs are on largest rock under half-dead tree. lots more potential if someone were to spend some time cleaning the moss and dirt. solid anchor on top for possible abseil or TR.

Einschränkungen

15 min walk due to road closed for cars.

Zustieg

park on Burgees road and walk the remaining distance to the lookout. 10-15 min walk from the car park.

Summary:

Alle Klettern

Lat / Long: -37.809674, 143.918180

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -36.757774, 144.289817

Übersicht

Bluestone wall under the train bridge. Popular for long traverses on small holds

Beschreibung

Bluestone traversing at it's finest, easy slab to the far left and one side of the path is harder than the other. Slippery feet on both sides so bring some shoes. You can climb here when it's raining and the S side of the wall can get some sun on it

Zustieg

Situated where McIvor road starts, near Abbott street.

Summary:

Hauptsächlich Bouldern

Beschreibung

Not in the Black Hill reserve but very close by in Kyneton. Before you get out to the granite, grab some lunch and warm up on the bluestone bridge. Drive down to the Campaspe river walk and traverse your way around the river. Don't come in winter which is between March and October.

Zustieg

Drive towards the train station and turn left before the bridge crossing. Drive down and around to the right before parking at the start of the path. If you have time, this track leads another few km's through the botanic gardens and down to piper street.

Summary:

Hauptsächlich Bouldern

Beschreibung

Left of the walking track as you walk to the botanic gardens.

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Beschreibung

The short side that goes all the way around the corner.

Summary:

Sportklettern und Bouldern

Lat / Long: -38.162041, 144.343643

Beschreibung

If you climb at The ROCK you can use the generic routes below to keep your training logbook up to date.

Zustieg

Rear 403 (River End) Pakington St Newtown Geelong

Geschichte

Opened in September 2001, The Rock Adventure Centre has been the home of rock climbing in Geelong. Holding annual competitions and community events. With experienced staff and setters, The Rock is the place to train, catch up with friends and just hang out.

Summary:

Alle Sportklettern

Lat / Long: -38.161992, 144.343715

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -38.161868, 144.343641

Beschreibung

https://www.clipnclimbberwick.com.au/

39-51 Intrepid Street, Berwick, Vic. 3806

Beschreibung

Details: https://industryboulders.com.au/

Zustieg

39/8 Lewalan Street, Grovedale, 3216

Only 1.4kms away from Marshall train station and easily accessible via bus.

The facility also has bike racks for those of you that like to ride!

Summary:

Alle Klettern

Lat / Long: -37.649841, 145.101979

Übersicht

A quarried cliff not climbed on for many years.

Beschreibung

A small cliff near the Plenty river. Similar volcanic rock as in the road cutting near by. Short climbs(<10m).

The parcel of land that the quarry is on, is now coming back into public land hands. Parks Victoria will be acquiring this land and is in the process of doing so. They are supportive of allowing climbing here once acquired, so don't jeopardize access by sneaking in now!

Einschränkungen

[from previous CliffCare website]

History of Plenty Gorge

Climbing in quarry/historical climbing area still currently banned. Please do not climb here. This could risk potential access.

Plenty Gorge is an old basalt/bluestone quarry that has approx 18 routes of about 8 metres or so. From all accounts it was quite a good crag albeit small with the added bonus of it being close to Melbourne. The quarry was on private land and eventually, climbing was banned there by the private landowner. Anecdotally, it was banned due to incidences of climbers not respecting some of the access details to get to the climbing site.

#*Plenty Gorge Park currently has very limited climbing within the park itself. What is there is very unstable and unsuitable for anyone other than experienced climbers and quality of routes ie worthwhile, is debatable. Not suitable for groups.

The parcel of land that the quarry is on, is now coming back into public land hands. Parks Victoria will be acquiring this land and is in the process of doing so. A fortuitous meeting with a ranger in April 2014, alerted a couple of climbers who were in the park itself, not the banned area)of the intended acquisition and drafting of a master plan document. This information was then passed onto CliffCare and we have been involved in this from then on by providing information to the consultants and discussions with PV staff. Feedback was supplied for the initial community consult. Fast forward to present day December 2017, and it is encouraging to see that potential for climbing has been included in the plan. The plan has been put together before the acquisition has occurred so once this happens, we can engage in more solid discussions about the site.

Between the 19 November and 15th January, they are requesting feedback on the draft plan. Any positive thoughts you can provide on the potential for climbing at Plenty Gorge would be great. Documents are supplied below as well as the links for more information and where and how to provide feedback. It’s still a long way to go but all these steps will hopefully lead us to a positive outcome. I should say that my engagement with all concerned has been a positive one from my initial discussions.

Geschichte

The edge was quarried many years ago and is now quite stable. I did some climbs there back in the 90's with a fellow climber who knew the owner. We took a brush cutter and it got plenty of use. Tiger snakes were a natural hazard in summer. It was written up in The Eastern district guide.(p 209)

The area is going through a huge housing development and the cliff may be open if the property is bought out and added to the gorge park.

Summary:

Alle Klettern

Lat / Long: -38.444363, 144.098443

Einschränkungen

Last known access to this area is closed as per local Lorne PV rangers (2004). Bolts have been chopped and rock is loose.

Summary:

Klettern und traditionelles Klettern

Lat / Long: -38.052275, 145.681643

Einschränkungen

Mount Cannibal is now closed for climbing due to ecological concerns.

Summary:

Klettern und traditionelles Klettern

Summary:

Alle Klettern

Summary:

Alle traditionelles Klettern

Lat / Long: -37.874902, 144.307355

Beschreibung

The land manager has requested that people don't climb at this area at the present time. Access is being negotiated so please don't poach the few climbs as there are more, and better, climbs at the You Yangs.

Beschreibung

The largest boulder on top of the hill.

Summary:

Lat / Long: -37.874583, 144.309737

Beschreibung

The solitary, large, boulder down the hill from the main block, towards the houses.

Summary:

Hauptsächlich Klettern

Lat / Long: -37.330012, 144.594208

Einschränkungen

This crag has been closed for years. :-(

Summary:

Hauptsächlich Klettern

Lat / Long: -38.572109, 143.948038

Summary:

Hauptsächlich Klettern

Summary:

Alle Klettern

Summary:

Alle technisches Klettern

Summary:

Hauptsächlich Klettern

Lat / Long: -37.665254, 144.768400

Beschreibung

CLOSED FOR CLIMBING

The rock is really cool basalt columns, but, unfortunately, is choss. So, it's not a great loss that climbing is not allowed. There are two small areas: (1) the Organ Pipes with some short trad climbs, and (2) the Tessellated Pavement with some choss-heap bouldering.

Einschränkungen

CLOSED FOR CLIMBING

Zustieg

From the parking spot the trail is signposted to the Organ Pipes and the Tessellated Pavement.

Summary:

Alle Bouldern

Melbourne and Surrounds Guide

Table of contents

1. Melbourne and Surrounds 6,227 routes in Region

1.1. Inner Melbourne 1,207 routes in Area

1.1.1. Burnley Bouldering Wall 103 routes in Artificial

1.1.2. Como Park North 6 routes in Area

1.1.3. Lily Street Boulders* 20 routes in Boulder

1.1.4. Turner Street Wall 1 route in Area

1.1.5. Johnston Street Bridge 1 route in Area

1.1.6. Holmesglen Bouldering Wall 0 routes in Artificial

1.1.7. Bridge Road Pylons 2 routes in Area

1.1.8. Richmond Bridge 15 routes in Area

1.1.9. MacRoberston Bridge 1 route in Area

1.1.10. Darebin 95 routes in Area

1.1.11. Eastern Freeway at Musca Street Reserve 1 route in Boulder

1.1.12. Koonung Creek Trail, Blackburn North 0 routes in Artificial

1.1.13. Eastern Freeway Outer Wall 0 routes in Boulder

1.1.14. Brimbank Park 35 routes in Boulder

1.1.15. Sydenham Park 69 routes in Area

1.1.16. Footscray Rail Bridge 4 routes in Artificial

1.1.17. Unnamed 0 routes in Crag

1.1.18. Werribee Bluestone Super Crag 5 routes in Boulder

1.1.19. Marie Wallace Bayswater Park 0 routes in Artificial

1.1.20. Whipstick Gully Quarry 11 routes in Crag

1.1.21. Mordialloc Lifesaving Club Bouldering 4 routes in Boulder

1.1.22. Table Rock Point 7 routes in Cliff

1.1.23. Kororoit Boulders 30 routes in Boulder

1.1.24. Lower Kororoit Creek 9 routes in Crag

1.1.25. Wilson Bouldering Wall 101 routes in Gym

1.1.26. Gravity Worx Indoor Climbing Gym 120 routes in Gym

1.1.27. Bayside Rock 111 routes in Gym

1.1.28. Cliffhanger Climbing Gym 138 routes in Gym

1.1.29. Hardrock CBD 39 routes in Gym

1.1.30. Hardrock Nunawading 47 routes in Gym

1.1.31. The Lactic Factory 44 routes in Gym

1.1.32. Brunswick Northside Boulders 0 routes in Gym

1.1.33. Northcote Northside Boulders 36 routes in Gym

1.1.34. Urban Climb Collingwood 70 routes in Gym

1.1.35. Urban Climb Blackburn 42 routes in Gym

1.1.36. North Walls Indoor Climbing 35 routes in Gym

Zugang: CLOSED

1.1.37. UpUnlimited 0 routes in Gym

1.1.38. BlocHaus Bouldering Port Melbourne 0 routes in Gym