Routen als sport in Melbourne and Surrounds

Bolts don't look too good from the ground, rusty 3rd

Bolts don't look too good from the ground

Bolts don't look too good from the ground

on north west side of bridge, follow arch over path, then up past a bee hive, and onto heidelberg rd. 4 carrots, no anchor - no way this is 14 I still reckon it's hard for 20.

Run out to the 1st carrot bolt (typical YY style).

Starts right of the tree and follows some lighter granite passing crystal dikes and an easy stance.

Up steepining section of the wall in front of tree through broken flakes.

Up to RB and straight up three BR. Top to DRBB. (For top-rope access, this is the set of anchors near the big scoop in which water pools, with a dyke running next to it.)

Right of "water-runnel'. Its a long way to the 1st bolt but on solid holds.

1m right of EMW. Nice moves. Enjoyable climb. Shares second bolt of BotBW?

Up past bucket 2m right of Spandau. Two carrot bolts. Very high to the 1st bolt on small holds. Tricky to reach the 1st carrot if your short.

One Ringbolt + 2 FH. Tricky second bolt clip - take care.

2m right of BSHC. Two carrot bolts.

Long traverse. Start as for CC, then traverse R to finish up KC. Six carrots.

Hard start. Only seems to have one bolt. Either climb R into Iron Curtain, or L into CC.

Two carrot bolts.

Same crux, but finish R up FH instead.

2m right of VW.Two carrots.

Just left of arete on left end of wall. 2m right is easier

Around right side arete, 3m R of Oral Fixation. BR

Takes the left side of the slab. 1FH and 3 RB

Replaced the remaining carrots with RB 01/24. Bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria.

Middle of the slab. 2 FH, 2 RB to one more FH.

Replaced the remaining carrots with RB 01/24. Bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria.

First high RB then up left via 1 FH, 2 RB and one more FH.

Replaced the remaining carrots with RB 01/24. Bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria.

Right side of the slab with 3 RB.

Replaced the carrots with RB 01/24. Bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria.

Seam on block opposite Turd Bulglar. 1 FH

3m R of Arete R of Hang 'em High. 3 BR

Arete to R of Kangaroo Court and on L of Tarred and Feathered. 2 BR

On left hand end of wall taking line straight up to diagonal break passing 1BR.

2m R of Caught Redhanded, up to break, BR, seam, BR

Line 2m right of Stone the Crows to BR just before dyke, stepping up past hand-size hole.

Just around to the right of AP, up flake to BR and onwards over slab to BR as for AP. DBB.

A few metres right of Furnace, takes the vertical seam/crack to first high BR, then up to slab and BR as for AP.

2m right of base of tree. Follow black streaks up. Run out between first and second carrot bolts.

Climb directly up to the middle DBB passing 3 chunky fixed hangers one of which is just above a rusty old carrot.

Instead of heading off left after second bolt (as per the guide) to join 'Spontaneous Combustion', continue straight up on good edges to a high bolt near the water groove then onto chains. It doesn't change the grade, probably about gr. 16, buts its a more direct finish, straight up to chains, and may add a star. Feels similar to 'Tewkesbury'.

Well protected sport route. Follow the line of carrots and fixed hangers, the final one being shared with Mirror of Stone DF directly to the RH DBB (looking up).

Undulations into the scoop and slab above. 4 RB to DRBB. Originally had only one bolt in the scoop (2nd bolt).

Freshly brushed and retrobolted with permission Jan 24

Wall direct via RB to the FH on Bill and Ben. Finish up this to DRB anchor. (old DBB will be pulled once the new anchor has been tested)

Replaced the old rusty BR with RP fixed hanger and new anchor added 01/24. Bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria.

The amazing orange water streak starting off the left edge of the small ledge. It should get the attention it deserves now with 6RB to DRBB.

If accessed via the walk in to the base, scramble easily up from the main ledge. If abseiling in, this is the line descended.

Retro'ed with permission from the FA 01/24.

Water streak 2m Right of Arson. 5 FH to DBB.

Retro'ed with permission from the FA 01/24.

This route has great climbing.

Takes the shallow brushed water runnel. When the angle eases and the water streak splits takes the right streak to DRBB.

Originally soloed from directly below. As these first moves off the ground are much harder than the rest of the climbing, it is better to traverse in via The Occasional Mosquito to the right.

With zero trad options, the FA returned to add 5 spaced RB's and new anchor 01/24.

15m from left-hand end and just left of Hide and Seek. 1 carrot and 2 x FH. Seems like some holds have broken off.

Thin face climbing past a hole feature. 1 FH and cams for belay on top.

Start as for Monotony to first BR, then step R past 3 further BRs through slight bulge. 2 BR's on top for belay.

Unknown new route approx 2m right of POTA. 2 new FHs.

Vertical seam/crack in middle of face past 2 BRs.

Blunt arete left of En Vogue. Up past BR to horizontal break and up to second BR, then to top. DBB

Very thin line up middle of orange wall, brushing past the tree after mid-height. 2 FH.

Line up the left hand end of the face around right of Cameo. 2 BR.

Right hand end of face, stepping up onto diagonal seam, up past 2 BRs.

Continuation to Rush Job - moving off top of face to wall on right and up past BR.

Bolted arete 10m right of Adam.

Western face of block in front of Cynical Pinnacle - short hard line past 1BR.

Arete on north western corner of block, passing 2 BRs to right of arete.

Arete on north eastern corner of block. Up to FH, passing left-trending seam and BR. DRBB up and left.

Thin slabby line in middle of face on south side of block. 1 RB.

2m right of Big Deal, up past the diagonal seams on techo crimps and a toothy mono.

Starts right of the black streak of 'Pissing on a Friend'. Climb to first BR and then move left to second BR. Climb diagonally left to second BR of 'Round the Bend'. Then continue traversing left past a BR, FH, and BR. Finishes on the ledge below 'Dunny Door'.

This climb has been downgraded from 18 to 17 in the 2011 Guide Book "ROCKCLIMBS AROUND MELBOURNE" by Glenn Tempest.

This route is protected by 1 carrot, followed by a cam placement under the flake above the bolt.

This climb has been upgraded from 16 to 17 in the 2011 Guide Book "ROCKCLIMBS AROUND MELBOURNE" by Glenn Tempest.

Steep climbing on small edges. Starts below the left end of the overlap flake of 'Aiming to Please' (which caps the upper middle of the main face). Straight up bast 2 BRs.

Steep on small edges. Starts up back streak (3m left of Round the Bend) to sloping bulge (BR). Follow slightly left-leading line on good holds to second BR then up easy slab.

This climb has been downgraded from 18 to 17 in the 2011 Guide Book "ROCKCLIMBS AROUND MELBOURNE" by Glenn Tempest.

Sustained climbing on good edges. The water-streak right of 'Washing the Defectives', past BR at half height and a FH right of the steepening.

This climb has been downgraded from 17to 16 in the 2011 Guide Book "ROCKCLIMBS AROUND MELBOURNE" by Glenn Tempest.

The slab immediately right of the bulbous slabby nose. A thin start then trends slightly left (BR). Straight up past a second BR.

The only bolt on the route is located a fair way off the ground; however its easy ground if your solid at the grade.

Starts on the extreme left of the face (3m right of the gully), 5m left of 'Better to Burn Out Than to Bust' from small blocks. Up the faint vertical seams past on BR. Flake belay up left.

Starts just right of Laras Knockers, with easy climbing to the first (disconcertingly high) bolt, then becoming harder towards the top, with a committing finish. Double ring bolt loweroff marked in topo is at least 5 meters back from the top of the climb and is shared with adjacent climbs.

This climb has been downgraded from 17 to 15 in the 2011 Guide Book "ROCKCLIMBS AROUND MELBOURNE" by Glenn Tempest. Double ring bolt loweroff marked in topo is at least 5 meters back from the top of the climb and is shared with adjacent climbs.

Tricky start (crux) to carrot bolt. The easier moves to the top.

The last climb on the far right side of the crag. Delicate start to bolt, then though easy ground.

3m R of the corner of Opossum. Up the face staying R of the corner on some really nice rock past 4FHs. Rebolted May 2022 with permission of the FA.

* Sustained & enjoyable. One of the best face routes in the YY. Start 4 meters right of 'Oppossum' to wander up the middle of the face on solid tint edges. Rebolted May 2022.

Start just right of Question of Ethics moving R on the sloping ramp to a FH. Follow the face just L of the arete past 3 more FH's. Can be started from directly below the first FH for a slightly more challenging start.

Rebolted May 2022 with permission of the FA.

Finger tearing and technical. Just right & around the corner of Mean Streak. Not as bold as it once was as it was rebolted in 2003 with FA permission.

May be harder now than the FA. The spectacular steep arete L of Orpheus. Up the arete past 2 FHs, then hard moves up and R to jug and FH. Up the R face into the cave then L to the arete. Continue up the arete and finish up Chuck Solids. Rebolted with permission of the FA May 2022.

Closed project, please stay off.

Scramble up the boulders, and step out R onto the arete follow this and the slab to the top. Double ring bolt anchor on top. Rebolted May 2022.

Start on the face, just R of the arete of Skid Row. First bolt can be clipped from the boulder on the R. Rebolted - July 2022. Has double ring bolt anchor on top.

The R hand route from the terrace at the top of Silver Knight. 3 FHs and DRB lower off at top Rebolted Jan 21.

Good climbing up the rounded R arete of Silver Knight Buttress. Some reckon it's a soft tick. Up the sickle-shaped crack to the arete, then blast up on tiny nubbins past a couple of thin diagonal dykes and a horizontal break to good jugs. Three FHs to Trad Anchor as for Silver Knight.

Right wall of The Chuchu. Start as for Oona Poona past its first bolt. Instead of stepping left and up as for that climb, move up right to the dish and second bolt. From here continue diagonally up right past a third and onto the run out slab finishing as for The Shining (RB). Rebolted 2022

Worthwhile linkup connecting a couple of hard cruxes. Climb the first 2 bolts of The Razor's Edge, then traverse on good holds right until reaching the break below the crux bulge of Professor Everything, climbing its crux to the double ring bolt anchors.

Direct finish to Doctor of Everything. Start of for DOE follow it to the break (optional large Cam). Wrestle with a hard move or two leaving the break and up the steep slab to DBB.

Up 3m right of small corner to scoop

Up to FH 3m right of Boneseed then right to arete, overlap

Nose of slab 4m right of CM to overlap

Middle of face 2m right of Defender of the Face. 3 BRs.

Thin crack 10m right of DF leading up to slab

From Boneseed Boulders, walk across the saddle and up right to a cluster of boulders.

Arete on right side of left most boulder. BR (clip with wire according to the guide).

Cruisy prow at the L end of the slab just L of the seam.

Originally 24, it probably still is. A great pitch all the way, despite the 2 chipped holds. If they bother you, it should be possible to eliminate them.

Start: Start 2m L of Grimulace.