Mount Beckworth Guide

Overhanging crack on south side.

A few M L of Clingle. Jump to starting jug then up arete. Solo FA. No gear.

Diagonally L to R up West face.

Vague crack on L side of slab

Chimney and corner crack on North of rock

Chimney, Corner and then traverse left past BR. Up arete

Shallow corner on East side. Up crack.

As for Tusker, then left to bolt and around corner. Up and left past 2nd BR.

Starts under the first bolt of Balance of Power. Continue straight up via a second bolt.

Starting left of Tusker at black streak. Up to 1st BR of Balance of Power then as for that climb

steep face L of Trunk Line. FH, PR.

As for Slave to 1st FH then L past 2 more FH.

Traverse along horizontal from Clingle to Prawn of Death.

Sit-start (kind of - your head is actually the last thing to leave the ground). Headstand into a bat-hang on the very point of the prow, then invert into an easy mantle. Very much a goof, but pretty entertaining.

Likely to draw blood.

Start crouched in the scoop, balance your way right.

Because its a serious rabbit problem. Sit start with a low right hand and compress your way to glory.

Sit start on the sloping rail 1m right of 1080 Baits and mantle into the scoop.

SDS - left hand on rounded crimp down low and in middle of face, right hand on slopey sidepull low on arete, both feet in notch near arete. Bump right hand up on arete then step back left onto face and top out over left. Stand Start done at V2, Eliminate not using arete done at V5ish

SDS - Left hand and heel hook on low undercling left of arete, right hand on good low jug on right side of arete, up the arete. Stand start done at V2 - both good fun

Sit start in the slot. Interesting, but no stars.

Sit start from the side pull and move to the edge out left. Avoid moving into Long Ears when topping out.

Sit start and stay left.

Sit start and mantle through the poor slopers.

Looks like a doddle but is far from it. Sit start under the bulge.

A common symptom of the COVID era. Stand start a couple of metres down the hill from Three Moves to Nowhere. Tricky moves lead up to a good edge and one final thin move. Finish easily, tending left to avoid the tree branches.

Originally a Grade 8 climb. Flake crack on upper western side

Grab the bottom of the fang just right of Three Moves to Nowhere and climb directly up it.

The dirt is never gone, just take a brush. Stand start recommended. The sit start done recently by Mr. Wilson adds two grades and removes the stars.

Sit start on good ledge facing uphill. Throw for good hold over the bulge.

Has historical significance you can feel - in the form of crimps.

A metre or two right of The First. From a stand start, grab a side-pull and a pinch and slap up to easier conclusion.

Big splitter crack on lower Eastern corner.

Sit start on the sidepull, head left to interesting mantel.

Sit start as for Tough Times.

Sit start as for tough times, traverse right to top out. Deceptively steep and slopey.

Lowball traverse. SDS with RH on crimp rail and LH on good side pull. Traverse left with with big moves on good holds and try not to dab! Finish the top out on jugs.

Start LH petruding pebble and RH on block. Head up over through few moves to top out.

SDS with RH on petruding pebble and LH on obvious crimp. Shuffle your way around and over the bulge and top out.

A fun sloper traverse that's gentle on the skin. Sit start on the juggy flake on the downhill face, bust a move up and then traverse left up the hill, topping out on the highest point.

There is a corner crack facing W about 30 m below Easter Rocks. Climb this then the slab on R

Up to BR 2m R of RaB near meter round dimple.

Slab 7 m R with features and good pro

Arete L of main corner of Easter Rocks proper (Fancy Pants). BR

Clip BR as for Cessation then L 2m. R a bit then up.

Between C and FP. The middle of face. Side runner in FP and RP's.

The corner

Wall just R of FP avoiding walls on either side. BR

Back of pinnacle R of LC

Front of pinnacle, starting at SW arête, onto W face and up past 2 BR.

Start at a small crack 1m R of arête R of pinnacle, past horizontal 1/3 of way up and into vertical crack running through roof.

Up L of hole in middle of face to horizontal then L over lip.

Just R of hole. Straight up.

30m R (uphill) from RS is another boulder. Centre of scoop to BR then R and up crack.

There is another group of boulders further uphill. Go up wall from NW corner to roof. Hand traverse R. From ledge go up L face.

A tree has now grown over this route on another set of boulders L of Rejected. On E side is an overhanging crack line. Up this.

There is a slightly overhanging E face with a series of large ledges on a long thin boulder further left.

50 m Down and E from Cloud 9 is an orange boulder. 50m across the hill from this is a large dead gum tree. 20m S is an erosion gully. On S wall of gully is a narrow crack in a shallow corner. If you actually went to the trouble of finding this climb you might as well go up it.

Sit start and follow the seam of sidepulls/underclings to the top.

Sit start with left hand side pull, through the crack. Starting rail of Jump Up helps.

Start on the thin crimps.

Oh so thin. Underlings then ??? then top.

Sit start on the lower block. Bridging behind you is cheating.

Sit start on the incut LH side pull and the high, slopey ledge for the right. Climb straight up the blunt Arete and top out the slab and eventually the ramp. Holds IN the scoop are out. Laugh at yourself as you pass the old carrot bolt.

The slab with monos.

The slab without monos.

Weird scooping into a side pull.

2m left of Underclinger. Sit-Start with side pulls and good feet. Straight up.

Balance up the friction slab to a technical top out. Engaging and delightful!

Sit start in the unprotectable hole with low left foot and high right heel. Top out carefully on opposite side of boulder.

Stand start. Switch sides of the boulder to top out.

Great moves. Start as for Edge of Reason and traverse the face right, avoid the chossy break to top out the slab far right.

"I see frustration in your future." Fantastic technical slab climbing.

Reverse layback palmistry crack direct to top avoiding arete

Sit start on the left of the crack and climb up through the scoop.

Sit start on the right of the crack.

Sit start with high right gaston and low left sidepull. Move up and left through sharp vertical slot.

Sit start good right side pull to climb the blunt arete.

There is a sustained overhanging finger crack on the uphill side of the gully, just L of Gecko. Climb this if you can.

On the uphill, eastern wall of the gully is a curved overhanging flake.

On the downhill side of the boulder downhill from Gecko is a blackwood tree in front of an arching overhang. Follow the arch past a low nut and 2 BR then straight up.

On the boulder in this group closest to Cosy Corner there is a 1.5m high block near the SW corner. Bridge to face from block. FH and 2BR. Single FH on top. (There's actually 3BRs, but the last is so thick you'll need an odd hanger or a wire to slip over).

follow the crack from the bottom R hand end L to and across the to of The Bridge.

As for TTA but straight up arête to L side. Finish up arête or L 1m then up.

There is a large boulder half way between Thingamejug and Elephant Rock. Climb the NW corner on sandy rock with no pro.

On uphill end of face outside and downhill of alcove entrance. Overhanging corner line, starting off block then finger traverse under roof. Originally 18 with some nuts for aid.

L and lower down from SS. Up body width crack off detached face to gain face then continue.

Unto detached block downhill from SS. Follow weakness to up and L. Great Pro. Finish either at blocks, or at rap chains.

Starts up reborn, moves left to the arete then past 3 carrot bolts to the top.

In Yosemite some fool would have crawled in and thrutched their way to glory before grading it 5.9. Much better sit or stand start on great edges on the nose up left of Blackwood arete. Traverse up left to the gaping maw… look in, tremble then do the only sensible thing and undercling out to the lip/arete on the left side of the chimney. Power up via some slopey burley moves to gain jugs at the top, traverse left and simply step off into the boulder. Quite cool.

Climbs the left arete of the face down right from Reborn. Stand start just left of the shoulder-high boulder and climb featured arete. Scramble off right.

Nice problem with a great slopey finish. From a sit start off two opposing side-pulls in the middle of the face right of Blackwood Arete, climb the face finishing through the slopey bowl. Scramble off right.

Right arete - sit start, techy moves up arete to right of Lockdown Blues

On extreme uphill end of wall uphill from Alcove and around L of Sophie. Climb corner and crack.

Dogleg crack R of RMS.

2m L of alcove entrance, up bulging seam.

Arete L of Cosy Corner and NKiT starting at ramp before traversing towards alcove entrance. 3BR.

Climb wall in between Sophie and NKiT. No pro. (BR have ben chopped)

Slab just L of Cosy Corner. BR.

The obvious corner inside the alcove

L Leading crack 5m R of CC to ledge. Bocks then L to face and thin crack before arête. BR.

Airy moves in a good position. Start up Oubliette to the ledge. Clip the PR (next to a large cam placement) and hand traverse R under the overlap. The arete is then followed to the top.

Cave tunnel access through to Main wall cave via ground level squieze. Enter behind bottom rock pictured for Stegophilist. Exit via squieze out of unassuming ground level hole. Could probably be done with a harness and a light rack. Fun alternative to walking around.

Swing onto face with BR at 4m after bridging between NF and Stegophilist. Arete.

A minor crack line with no pro on wall opposite Stegophilist.

Stand with your back to CC and look at the impressive looking wall in front of you with 2 diagonal finger cracks. Up this passing 3BR. Chains on top.

The thin crack right of Scansorial. Aided on first ascent, yet to be freed.

On the outside of the alcove, down and right (exiting the alcove R of Cosy Corner. Climb the arête R of obvious gently sloping corner crack all the way to chains. 3BR and trad (including long slings)

The corner crack down hill and R from alcove (around L from Nothing Flash. Huge Gear. Finish up Times Up to chains.

1m L of Unnamed (And Deservedly So). Wall exiting L.

R of Solo O Nothing and L of Nothing Flash. Cracked base to scoop. BR then up.

1. 10m (19) Crack to layaway to clip BR. Up and L over bulge then trend R to crack Belay at top.

2. 8m (14)Up main face from R of top of boulder for a meter. Up and R along crack to Quartz Route's top BR. Finish up this.

R of Digital and around corner is a broken crack on a steep face. BR then swing around onto face. R arête then step over for a nice finish.

Digital's 2d pitch until BR at top of Quartz Route. Keep going R across slab to Afternoons DF BR and then as for end of One of these Nights

Corner in blocks behind Digital, exiting through hole. Arete.

As for QR to 1st BR and ledge. L to block and then arête. 4 BRs now.

3BR up center of Main Wall Crux between 2d and 3rd BR.

As for QR then hard R just below 2nd BR. Trad 2m from top.

Straight up just L of Afternoons, skirt cave and up crack to L. No pro. Solo FA

Use Afternoons for side runners. When L of cave, go up and L of BR

An obvious corner crack system that is visible from the car park and 3m R of Quartz route.

As for Afternoon to ledge then L onto slab and up. Use Fish DF's BR

From boulder R of Afternoons. Up to top of detached block, L along large horizontal to join Afternoons at it's top crack. R along finger traverse under roof and then up.

Straight up to center of roof from large horizontal. Traverse R and then up.

As for OotN DF, but straight up through roof.

L edge of face. No Pro

L of Steps, up diagonal seam.

Brushed (long ago) crack system. BB (not obvious)

Left hands in Steps, R to ledge then up slab between Steps and HMGS

2m R of Sea Scape.

Start using L hand holds of HMGO then straight up.

Up R of Spindrift

Weakness going diagonally left R of Groundswell.

Straight up after starting as for WH

Start R of Seaspray. Up Slab

Up groove R of Seaspray.

New route R

Traverse at mid height of upper slab L-R.

At the L end of the wall there is a toe. Start 2m past this by going up and L along the ramp until you can mantle. BR.

As for Up 'n Over until after mantle, then up and R to finish.

4m L of tree. Up to ledge, L to slab and BR. Up over bulge.

1m L of tree. Up to ledge at 2m then continue. BR.

Just L of tree and R of Edges.

R of tree. Climb the line. BR. Run out to top.

Central narrow crack on wall. Stay in crack and belay at blocks on top.

R of TIE. Climb the line.

Starts as for Primordial and follows the slightly right-leading line easily to top.

2m R of Primordial. Easy scramble

There is a tall boulder near left end of Cave Group and up high. Climb the face only past a BR

R of C&S, on terrace. Up passing 1 BR on nice edges.

Down at base of cliff again. Wall and corner past piton.

3m L of Leeper. Sling the bollard, under roof then up. DBB.

Clip Leeper piton L of Hieracherthium after pulling around bulge.

Quartz seam up brushed streak on smooth rounded face. Take care with the seam please as without it the climb wouldn't be here. 3BR. 2 Ring bolts at top.

Chimney R of H.

Ctart in chimney then up L side. 3BR. DBB

As for TPB but up R side of chimney once level with BR. Traverse to arete and to BR on Staphyloccus. ?also clip top bolt of GF.

line of 4 BR R of RCF. Sling on summit jugs.

Start just R of center on flat face with 4 BR around end of boulder R of S. Up And R to 1st BR then direct to 2nd.

As the name suggests, direct to 1st BR then as for original.

Route starting just to R of FM. Up, veering R past 2 BR

On Sth of boulder and past SS. Take the orange face past BR to crack. 2BR

The opposite side of To Bridge, R of RO. Bridge then crack.

1. 14m (23) Start by bridging as for COS, but then go R to BR passing RP placement. Direct from BR up past FH to DBB

2. 2m (-) Up wall above chockstone.

Clip BR on block R of TEO then up. FH.

The deep chimney opposite DFD. Squeeze exit.

Mouth of Chimney then crack.

Bridge up gap between 2 boulders near front of alcove. There is a dead tree in it. Then up face. 2 high BRs. Walk off right

Start as for Tensor, but climb steep wall instead of bridging. BR. Up as for Tensor to BR and ledge. Step L and up crack.

Left leaning line under overhang, around bulde and up.

R of LiotLL. Up through crack then L side of flake.

Bulge 1m R of crack, then R side of block.

The crack direct.

Slab to R of SUL.

Approx 10 m L of Lay it on the Lip Line and R of and above Tensor. The short, thin slab.

Start at lowest point of slab and follow line of grassy pockets to quartz seam.

Climb pockets, then R to right leading crack.

Sit start with LH crimp on face and a right heel hook and head up the face/arete.

Stand start on crimps and top out through the scoop. Almost gets a star.

In the mountains, bad judgement can lead to death, here it simply makes for average climbing. Stand start on opposed holds.

Traverse the sloping ledge right to pull onto the narrow face and mantle out.

Not pictured. The slab on the face right of Heavens to Murgatroyd. Stand start on underclings. Thrutchy and unworthy.

Climbs like a novelty make up problem your mate did in the gym. Start on the undercling and 2 finger pocket, then traverse the whole wall up the hill on outrageous underclings. Top out through crimps and rails.

Extends the start of GulchRider by 3 or 4m. Stand start at obvious LH flake 3m right of the gulch start, right hand on a mid height knob/layaway out right. Get established before gaining the good slope crimp then magic your way a long way left via the sharp Crozley pockets and/or blade crimps to gain the sloper and jug. Traverse down to gain the undercling start of gulch rider and finish as for that.

Right hand end of wall, opposite start of Gulch Rider, SDS off cool two finger pocket for LH and pinch for RH, straight up wall past three finger pocket and good edges to juggy topout

Stand start on the slab with low hands and top out through the flat rails.

Climb the giant crack that splits the stacked boulders. Its not clean so take care not to die - the filth adds to the stars.

Mystery shrouds this line, who busted the flake then cleaned it up? Just how chipped is it? What's that smell? Like I said, mysterious.

Wild stuff! Sit start off the underling and side pull. Great moves but sharp.

I was once in thrall to the Mountain King, bound in servitude I languished. Tips bleeding from my labours, keening lamentations ushered unwittingly from my cracked and bleeding mouth, for my family, my friends, and my beloved Ethel. As I gazed upon the rock I knew what I must do: link the start of Hall of the Mountain King into the end of Mountain King, and I set upon that granite with the crazed and anguished fervor of a man deprived of all that which defines him.

Stand start on the giant ledge and jug on the right side of the crack, traverse left across the crack using chockstone & slopers, top out easily on the high side of the boulder.