Beechworth Area Guide

Up the arête avoiding the ledges on your left.

Start at the dodgy flake and straight up, the hardest part is the mantle!

The obvious hand crack facing the road. Beware of its namesake in the crack!

Sit start in the far right corner crack and traverse left across the 'bowl' then up the main crack using the crimps out to the left

Sit start and go straight up the middle. Use left edge and the middle crimps.

The left arete.

The pinky fingers sized crack.

The central arête. Start as for Unnamed 4 and traverse in then up. Beware the creaking hold on the arête.

The right hand corner.

Climb to the edge/ledge and continue to the top via an easy mantle.

Climb to the edge/ledge and continue to the top via an easy mantle.

Climb the shallow groove to the right of Unnamed 2.

The ledges in the right hand corner make for an easy route up.

Start on the right side of the cliff and traverse left and up the arete

Stand start at the hanging flake and climb it.

Sit start at hanging flake where it almost touches the ground.

7 metres right of problem no.2 is an obvious brushed face/slab. Stand start slightly left of centre using high gaston. Delicately smear up and right, using tiny holds to gain good left sidepull and high right gaston. Trust your feet whilst you turn the lip then finish up final slab.

A stunning line. Delicate moves up the central arête/rib lead to a committing top over.

This boulder is in the northern region of Area E away from the main group of boulders. Fairly straight forward following the crack line up.

Around the side of the above boulder. A delicate start with the left hand on the underside of the a small crack. Work the right hand up into the crack and then use both hands the work your way up the crack. A difficult high right footing required to leverage up along the crack.

Start matched on obvious ledge. Move up the thin crack and top out.

Project. Start on obvious ledge with poor feet. Make a couple of moves through the seam and onto the arete. Move left then top out at the highest point. Rough of the fingers.

Often attempted, rarely topped out on! The highball hand crack is usually top roped as the crux is right at the top. Old school!

Adjacent East to the above, also marked 'The Three Sisters'. Not a bad crack to work up but the top out is awkward and rough.

Continues on from the above top out. Delicately work across the rock then up the other side. A tree is conveniently placed behind you at the insanely chossy crux!

Head further East from The Three Sisters rocks. Very difficult start due to the absence of any decent footholds. There is a flake sticking out of the ground that might come in handy... Bump up your hand holds on the left and right then work both into the crack. Big reach over the top of the boulder to secure a good hold to top out.

Easily visible from the road, this classic highball finger crack is a stunning problem with the hardest moves saved for the finish.

A few nice moves on this overhung boulder’s face leads to a hard pull to top out.

Work further along the ledge of Roadkill for a more difficult top out

Should be hard- Steep moves on rough, painful crimps. Traverse right along the seam, then throw to good holds and finish up Roadkill extension. Sit start looks possible.

Left of Roadkill. Almost certainly has been done. Lay away with the big undercut edge and up.

An old time easy classic up the slab.

Sit start at the slopers and up to the good dyke edges, head left and step off when matched at the last big edge.

On top of the larger boulders in the area. Not much to see here as it is so short. Perhaps try traversing?

Further around the hill. A great fun and easy chimney! Variety of ways to work it to make it harder.

Around the side of the above chimney. A difficult looking rounded crack.

Make you way up the slab using the arete and/or crack.

Slab on the right hand side...use the arete!

Classic! This is the 1st boulder on river right about 50 metres downstream from the bridge and ascends the stepped overhung orange face. Sit start using the chockstone for feet and pull hard off dual side pulls to get off the ground.

As above without the starting chockstone for feet.

Sit start in finger crack on the downstream side of Bayou Baby. Up on slopers, heading left up the vague arête to join Bayou Baby at the top and pull over.

Thought provoking! The next boulder just downstream from The Nymph has a single big jug on its lower lip. Start matched in the big jug, pull up and over with much technicality.

Start 1 metre right of Caddis on very small sloping holds and high right heel hook on small edge. Big move left into huge hole, then finish as for Caddis.

An extremely photogenic problem providing eerie climbing in a great position. Traverse into the bottom of the corner crack at the base of the pool, step left to gain the wall proper, up to little block, left around this, take a deep breath and head diagonally up left to the top, following the orange rock. (Not the black streak!).

A striking and powerful line on very smooth overhung rock. Start matched on sloping hold/jug. Head diagonally right and up, top out.

Start at largest low hold on arête and straight up to top out…easier than it first appears when using the full array of holds.

Start as for ‘Flotsam’. Take a deep breath and traverse left across the lip to the big flat top to a mildly terrifying pull over.

Scary slabbing. Starts behind the cypress pines in the small ‘cove’ on river left. Straight up the clean black streak.

The small boulder in the centre of the creek provides a good problem if the start isn’t underwater! Sit start on the obvious big flat top on the river left side of the boulder; follow the line of holds to the top.

The obvious line that looks easy to layback... from a distance. The crack's flared and the granite is crumbly but everyone does it just to stand on top.

The first route on the wall, start on ledge behind cypress. Difficult moves past 2 FHs to rings.

Start 2m L of The Happy Baker. Up a mini arete to a sloping ledge, and then continue past horizontal breaks. 2FHs to rings.

The mini-arete on the boulder opposite Life In The Fat Lane. Although very short, this is a great warm-up, or beginner's lead. 2 FHs.

Nice moves up the pockets/scoops to the gripping finger crack. Dodgy rock.

The arete that forms the right edge of the chimney to the left of Rhinocerous Breath

Probably the first route here. Excellent protection. The obvious finger/hand crack through a small overhang.

The first closed seam left of the small cave. Hard moves lead to hole and jugs. Lurch left to finger crack with one more hard move at the top. 4 FHs. The top of the crack may need brushing after rain.

Start as for Doughboy. At jugs continue up the line to where the seam peters out. Head out R (crux) on tiny crimps and then up. 6 FHs.

The bolted face left of Doughboy. Hard face moves lead to the finger crack which may need brushing. 3 BRs, 1 FH.

The chimney. Bring BIG gear, otherwise go on an adventure and use the chockstones for pro.

Recently re-bolted (2014). Climb the left arete of "Soot" past 3 RB's, execute the thought-provoking mantle to gain 4th RB, then surmount final steepness clipping 5th RB a couple of metres above the lip (out of sight from the ground). Head left to Double Ring lower-off.

Climb Chicken Salad Roll to 3rd BR. Hard move out left to horizontal crack (takes gear), and up to jugs.

The tiny seam to the left of Chicken Salad Roll. Very technical. Uses Chicken Salad Roll's BRs and a few RPs, exit up The Bakery Connection.

Probably the best route at Mt Pilot. The finger-crack/flake a few metres L of Chicken Salad Roll.

The next big crack 2m L of Beechworth Bakery. Can be protected fairly well.

Climb the thin crack left of Breakfast At The Ponderosa on natural gear to a bolt near the top.

Off-width crack forming right side of John's Arete to ceiling bulge, then turn bulge by face on right. You can clip the BRs on John's Arete until some natural pro, then run it out to the top.

The lowish angled bolted arete past 3 BR's, can us some large gear to protect top out. Hard to avoid the crack.

This route is about 3m left of John's Arete. Two moves of aid on bolts, then climb the finger/hand crack to the top.

About 10m past stumper jumper and 5m before the fatties is an obvious offwidth/squeeze chimney which goes up about 10m and then trends right, finishing with a short fist size crack. Would require very large pro to lead.

The cool-looking right-hand line on suspect-looking (but surprisingly solid) rock. Straight up past 3RB's to double ring lower-off

The left-hand line is also not too bad. Good gear down low. 1 FH to rings.

Excellent and somewhat sustained climbing on the obvious half-height horizontal flake. At the end of the flake, head left for a couple of moves (crux - take RPs), then straight up into dyke city. 1 BR.

Delicate hooking up centre of face until about half height, then fine wires in incipient seam. The increasing size of the seam towards the top is offset by the increasing crumbliness.

This route starts in the middle of the main face at a weakness with heaps of dyke rock. Climb the slab to the rightward sickle crack and follow it to the top. 3 BRs.

Start as for Rocky Road, only blast your way straight up the middle of the face passing 6 BRs on your way to glory!

Start as for Rocky Road. Follow the leftward crack to the top on bad gear.

The low angled black slab behind the big dead tree. Excellent climbing past 3 BRs leads to huge jugs at the horizontal/ledge (2x#1 SLCDs). Continue past another BR to the top.

The very coarse finger crack to the left of Apple Scroll. Heads right under bulges and up. Tape up!

Aptly named. On the next separate cliff-line is a black slab capped by a big flattish boulder. This route starts on the right-hand end at all the edges and just left of the chossy chimney. 3 BRs lead to a crack (#1 SLCD) in the overhang, pull through this and head on up.

The line on the far left of the slab. Straight up through the slipperiness.

The centre line. Start as for Grimpeuse de la Nuit and then follow the line of little vertical seams/cracks. A direct start was done using the trees and a big edge at a grade of 21, but it's not known if the trees are still there.

Pockets don't get any better than these! Start up Grimpeuse de la Nuit and then traverse right until you get to the line of pockets.

The first small slab between two cracks. Start in centre, go left to a big edge, up over bulge, then right to join Straight Up.

As the name implies, straight up.

The crack 2m right of straight up, which angles slightly right. Jamming from thin hands to fist up higher. Start 1m left of fused crack on jug, then up to diagonal crack for pro. Anchors at top for lower off.

The first bolted route. Up the black wall past a FH to big jugs at 4m. Wander up and left placing whatever gear you can find, just don't fall at the top!

Horrible. The major ugly looking crack. A lot harder than it looks and not recommended.

Another awful route. Start up flake/crack that joins The Venus Fly Trap at about 4m. Up as for The Venus Fly Trap. Also not recommended.

The wall with 3 FHs offers some very hard and steep cranking. Stick clip first FH. Hard moves past this lead to excellent incuts. Exit out left at twin seams, lower-off at chains.

Short but sweet. Takes the steep bulge right of Seamstress. Stick clip the first FH, pull over the bulge and meander up to the top.

Not recommended. The first crack around the corner from Bobbin.

The next crack right of Crack One.

Quite a nice route on excellent hard dyke-rock. Three metres right of Crack Two is a scoop with 2 FHs. Bouldery moves lead to a pocket and the second FH. Step right and finish up Thredbo.

A really cool route if you can do the start. The wall 2m right of Ache To Touch You. A very hard start leads to jugs.

The finger crack to the huge horizontal slot and roof, continue up the headwall. Gear was pre-paced above the roof on the FFA.

About 4 metres to the left of 'Helmets On!' Fun crimps up to a scoop. Mantle and then head up a bit more to a more tradition slab finish. Crux in between 1st and 3rd Bolt. Double carrot belay.

Towards the L end of the wall there is a crack which ends at about half height. Up this and then continue on up the slab.

2m left of Mount Pilot Unearthed is a line of bolts. Tricky first move leads to an awesome rail, head straight up with plenty of crimps on offer!

The original route on this wall. The arete on the L of the large crack splitting the wall past 3 BRs. Please be aware the final section of this route is somewhat run-out.

Channel your inner chough as you clear leaf litter from the back of this crack to find great cam placements, and maybe the buried treasure of hexes that fit a bit too perfectly.

Easy beginner trad for learning to place and clean cams, with the odd hex placement. Follow the large crack splitting the wall up to the tree.

Mixed trad starting in the crack chimney to the left of sticky date and joining at the 3rd bolt of sticky date with an obvious step across. Nice stances in the crack feature.

Great beginner route! Tricky opening sequence leads to excellent, well protected slab climbing. Starts 1m R of the wide crack splitting the wall (if standing at cliff base). Double BR top anchor.

Fantastic first lead! Well protected fun slabbing. Starts 7m right of Sticky Date Sunrise (if standing at cliff base). Tricky opening moves, then easily up the slab. Double BR top anchor.

Start about a Metre right of Lucky Charlie, climb up a thinking start to first bolt, up past some nice crimps into another tricky section before the last bolt.

A hard start leads to good face climbing, finishing easily up the slab. Start off the block 5m R of Lucky Charlie (if standing at cliff base). If needed, the start can be skipped by using the tree. Double BR top anchor near small gumtree on ledge.

Starting half a metre to a metre right of Psycho Midget Madness, through the obvious brushed section, move right after 2 metres and than up. Soon to be bolted and graded, otherwise can be top roped at about a grade 20 , off the bolts below the tree at the top of the crag.

Follow crack up until bolts travel to the right and up to 2BB.

Follow the crack all the way past a thrutchy crux. Take 2 hangers for the anchor.

The first route as you walk down. Climb the face left of the arete to the horizontal crack. Swing right on the face above the slab and up to the top. Has 5 BRs or so, take a few small cams as well.

Start as for Falcon's Lair, move left past the two scoops then up the face past 3 BRs to join Falcon's Lair.

Up centre of the face to diagonal crack. Pull through then up face past 5 BRs.

Right side of face. Pull past BR to thin ledge, traverse right and over small roof. Climb the arete past 4 BRs.

Starts at the main corner of the left-hand end of the cliff and about 50m left of The Lighthouse Of Alexandria.

1. 20m. The corner to a cave behind some large blocks.

2. 20m. The crack to the ledge. Instead of scrambling off, continue to the top via the steep crack that starts on the little ledge above.

The obvious wide chimney that has a zig in it.

Start off the big block at the base of the chimney. Ordinary gear leads to a FH and then a ledge (another FH). Continue up the left arete passing 3 FHs to the top.

To the R of On The Edge is a beautiful clean finger crack. Climb this to the ledge and then boldly mount the face above.

Forty metres right of the left-hand end of the cliff at a leftward diagonal line becoming a flake/chimney.

1. 35m. Move left on the boulder, pull onto the ledge and up leftward ramp to the flake/chimney.

2. 20m. Scramble to the top.

Climb past 3 BRs on the face.

Climb up a ramp past 2 BRs and then mount the headwall above past one more BR.

Climb the thin wall past 6 BRs.

Bridge the crack and slip up the arete past 2 BRs.

4m right of Bridge Work is a clean curving crack.

Has a nice committing crux that has seen more than one fall! On the next tier below the climbs described above, is a cracked face topped by a bulge. Climb the broken crack system and clip a BR before pulling the root-bulge.

6m left of Root Canal is a rippled face. Crank your pants off past 5 BRs.

A nice easy finger crack to warm up.

The first white water streak on low angled rock. No gear.

On the main slab is an obvious white water streak. Follow this over the steepening and past some dubious flakes. No protection!

The short crack at the left end of the Flake Off wall is a "muck around boulder problem".

The clean black water streak in the centre of the slab.

To the right of Pegasus is a line with heaps of flakes. Nice climbing past 2 FHs leads to an anchor.

The first closed corner you come across. A hard start leads to good pockets and good gear. Avoid the chossy direct finish by moving left over the slab at the end of the corner to join The Tourist Route.

The obvious big layback flake. Fun laybacking leads to a pleasant doddle up the slab (1 FH). Don't fall while clipping.

Duck through the cave and this is the next nice crack along. Easy moves out of the cave lead to a no hands rest. Continue up the thin corner (crux).

Climb the hand-crack on the back of the boulder, then pull past some thin moves protected by a FH.

The left corner/roof.

The crack 1m right of Danish Crack. Up the left side of the top block which may be loose.

3m right of Geranium Crack. The widening to off-width crack.

Arete left of Spoonerism.

Opposite Talon. Arete and face.

The crack/corner, exiting over the top of the talon.

The cool hanging arete to the right of Talon. 3 BRs natural anchor.

A fun and sporty route to the right of "Is That A Light Sabre In Your Pocket?".

Overhanging off-width crack to the right of Thomas Flares.

Small pro in crack line to the right of the off-width crack. Go left of centre.

The fist-crack left of the blunt arete, then mantle the flake and up.

The crack around right of Comic Relief.

Small seam right of G String. Bad pro to start leading to nice flakes.

The right end of the face, trending right past a FH to a horizontal (pro). Then go left to the steep finger crack and up.

Arete left of Valkyrie. Originally climbed by the 2 BRs on the western side, it now has 2 FHs.

Left side of face. Thin crack to off-balance ledge, stem to gain small alcove and a couple of jams to exit.

Solid for the grade. Up the wall a couple of metres left of Grendel past two BRs. Small cam protects the finish.

The obvious corner crack which takes great protection.

Short and sweet. Start on the lower right and roughly follow the arete past 2 BRs.

20m downhill and left (SW) of Western Exposure is an obvious crack line.

The left arete past 2 BRs. Starting boulder problem is about V2!

Boulder onto the rail, balance your way up to the next ledge, and then try and figure out how to get up through the scoop. Probably 23 for short people! 3 BRs.

Wires plus 1 BR. The right hand route.

At small gum tree go straight up finger crack.

Arete right of Sister Crack. Up to horizontal, then crux moves to clip the only BR.

The obvious arete with 2 BRs.

The wall to the left of Obelisk. Feel free to bolt it.

The hard one. 2 BRs plus wires.

The easier one. 2 BRs plus wires.

Start at bottom of block. Up vertical broken crack to fist jam, over ledge and follow line to horizontal. Go left and up.

Right of Matinee. The 75 degree left-leaning finger-crack (which is of excellent quality). Surmount ledge, move right, and step down slightly for thin moves up arete. According to the guidebook this had a bolt but there's no sign of it now.

The obvious weakness on the left arete. No real protection.

Hard and dangerous. Crank up on a few good holds (RB) to stance on right. Take a deep breath and traverse left (crux - fiddly RPs) to seam/gastons. Keep going left and up until you hit the top.

Stunning crack, both in appearance and difficulty!

Flake system on high side of green chasm. Worthwhile.

Left of Scooter. From under overhang, move to arete, onto face and up.