Grand Canyon Guide

At the far left (upper) end of the canyon, this large crack system starts by gently angling upwards as it traverses left, then goes to straight up, and finally curves back to the right.

THis is, also, almost never climbed, and is totally covered in moss and dead leaves. It would need at least a moderate cleaning before being climbed.

Starts out on a blocky crack that climbs up to a large ledge. From the ledge climb a left-facing corner with a crack at the back that then transitions to a right-facing corner with the same, widening as one climbs, crack at the back of it.

A few meters right of "Le Castor Bricoleur" is a steeper thinner crack, with a bolt just at the sky line. Climb up the (initially blocky), but eventually thinning down to shallow fingers crack, which disappears at the bolt, then up the friction slab above (4 bolts) to the anchors.

Starts behind a pair of trees, and ends just below a tree as well. Climb the bolt line over some thin holds for the grade.

Looking for a set of three bolts angling up and leftwards, on an almost ramp-like area of rock. Needs gear for the upper section/finish.

Look for a pair of left-arching cracks at the top of the cliff -- this climb starts below and right of them.

Climb the blocky crack to the left-arching crack and finish up and left through them. A bit run-out at the end.

While listed as a 40m climb in the guide, and it can be climbed as such, there is a 2-bolt anchor at the end of the interesting climbing at about 28m. The crack continues from there, but it is very dirty, mossy, and treed.

A variant finish for Titanicomanie which makes the route sport the whole way.

Starts below a low roof with orange rock below the roof.

Climb up pulling the roof, to technical slab climbing above, with holds getting thinner as one finishes around the top of the steep section.

After climbing to anchors, can then extend to share top/second pitch of "La Valse des Temps Modernes" (5.9) -- but the interesting climbing is done by then. About 38m to the top anchors.

Rarely dry, but good climbing when it is.

Up a wet section on bolts to blocky rock and a short crack section to (like everything else in the Grand Canyon) a slabby finish.

As if summer 2021 Bolt 3 is missing, leaving things a bit runout, and this might just be the crux.

The bolt line to the left of the obvious block of rock coming out of the wall.

Just right of La Cha-cha des Félins, start by the distinct off-width crack leading up to a line of bolts just right of where the crack ends. This climb is bolted except for the starting crack, which can be protected with a high stick clip. The crux is pulling the bulge about 2/3 up the climb.

Start at the same wide crack as Garantie Prolonge, but instead head up and right along rising edges and traverses, across La Vente Etiquette Rouge, Piglet, and finally turning up and slightly left to finish up the upper section of Le Sacre du Printemps.

Gear for the traverse is tricky to spot in advance, and sometimes to place, but is all there. (1 bolt borrowed from Piglet.)

Lower-off is a bit more then 30m from the high anchor.

Head up on vertical rock for the first bolts, then onto an upward-right slanting ramp. After leaving the ramp the climb finishes on slab.

High anchor at top is about a 32m lower.

It may be possible to step right to the anchor for Crocodile and lower-off with a 60m. (From the top anchor, a 60m rope and rope stretch may get you to the ground, depending on amount of rope stretch.)

Climb leftwards up blocky rock to a steep left-angling widish crack. Pull through, then finish with the usual Grand Canyon thin moves at the top (bolts).

Though not visible from the bottom, the climb continues up for a second pitch.

Look for some blocky rock that leads up into a blocky crack, and eventually a left-facing corner with a crack in the back. Start at the base of this.

1. 33m 5.8 Climb blocky rock to a high first piece, then up to the lovely crack in the corner. Clip one of the bolts on the anchor off to the left, and a 2nd bolt on the slab to a bolted anchor.

2. 32m 5.8 Climb up through the dirt and trees off the anchor to better rock above. Though not obvious, a number of small placements will appear, generally when needed. Clip 4 bolts along the way, and finish at a cedar at the top.

Descent: walk-off, or lower-off the cedar (may need to bring leaver-gear, no fixed anchor/gear on tree.)

Usually only the first pitch is climbed, often stopping short at the anchor to the left, before the slab. The 2nd pitch is a bit dirty, lichen-covered, with occasional smatterings of pine needles, but is good climbing after the initial really dirty bit.

While listed in the guide as "mixte" (mixed, suggesting that gear is needed in some parts, but bolts are used in others), this really climbs as a sport climb. There is no point on the lead where you need to place gear.

Starts just left of the crack "Beaujolais Nouveau" and follows the bolt line to the obvious crack. The second to last bolt is often pretty loose because of people falling on it.

Look for a right-facing corner at the top of the cliff. This climb starts below it.

Climb up easy going to a single bolt, then follow the zig-zag crack to the obvious right-facing corner in the skyline. Climb up the corner to the slab above, and anchors.

Obvious bolted line between the two cracks of Beaujolais Nouveau and Chute LIbre.

Left facing crack with good protection throughout. A bit run-out after the only bolt near the top.

Thin cracks and slab.

Even thinner.

Rarely climbed, and usually in need of a rebrushing.

Climb starts up a block corner above a small ledge about a foot above the ground, then branches to an obvious crack heading up and left from the corner. When this peters out, step left to a second crack in the upper part of the climb. Follow this until it disappears (last gear) then run it out up the slab to the anchors.

Guide indicates two bolts -- but they don't exist (as of June 2014). Finish is a bit run-out above last piece.

Climb the same block corner above the small ledge that Triplets starts up, but continue up the corner and rightwards towards a shared anchor.

Climb the blocky face right of "La Motte" past one block to the shared anchor.

Climb the bolted face right of the blocky corner through some thin slab to the shared anchor. Or continue on to the higher anchor (2 more bolts) for some more lovely friction climbing. 9 bolts / 25m for longer variant.

Not great gear.

It shares anchors with "Kenneth le Grand Inquisiteur".

First gear is high, but takes a few decent placements.

This climb is above the lower (right) end of the main Grand Canyon wall.

From the bottom of the canyon, hike along the small trail rightwards, until it doubles-back (with fixed rope) up some 3rd class slab, as you would if you were going to set top-ropes for the main Grand Canyon walls. As you finish the roped slab, and come out near the top of the first climbs, look right (down into canyon is left) and you will see a bolted anchor, and bolts heading up from there. This is where the climb starts.

1. 5.8 (32m) Thin slab past the first couple bolts, then straight-forward climbing to an anchor on a ledge.

2. 5.8+ (25m) Traverse left along the edge to an obvious right facing corner/crack, up this over a small roof, as the crack widens to off-width to anchors up top.

Enjoy the view.

Descent: rappel the route, but if rappelling on a 60m rope, use the anchors directly below the crack of the 2nd pitch, rather then the anchors used during the ascent (climber's right of the crack/corner). Else, you may run out of rope getting to the base.