Ajuda

The Spot

  • Contexto da graduação: US
  • Fotos: 1
  • Ascensões: 177

Sazonalidade

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Sumário

A good selection of moderate bolted routes and a few trad routes.

Descrição

For the latest beta, approach info, access issues, history, and to support your local guides, buy a guidebook! https://rockclimbingnovascotia.com/

Support route development & maintenance by joining Climb Nova Scotia! https://www.climbnovascotia.com/

Latest guidebook news at https://www.facebook.com/Rock-Climbing-Nova-Scotia-113143033397239

Questões de acesso

There are several large No Parking signs at the cul-de-sac at the end of Bayers Mill Road. This is to allow emergency vehicles space to turn, as well as for school buses.

Please don't park in the circle - there's generally ample parking further up Bayers Mill Road, or in the main parking area for the Musquodoboit Rail Trail on Park Road.

Acesso

From Halifax, take Highway 7 or 107 to Musquodoboit Harbor. Pass though town and left onto Highway 357. Then turn right at Park Road and park in the main lot. Walk 600m north, past the apple trees, the bridge, and the lovely view. Just before the information sign you will see a gate on the left and a trail leading past a Private Property sign on the right. Take the trail to the right, which will cross a bridge and curve to the left and pass a pond on the right. This logging trail runs parallel to the main rail trail. Stay on the trail for ~5 mins. Past a couple of wet spots on the trail (which can be completely flooded in spring) you should see a narrow path on your right marked by a short rock cairn. Head down this path and break left on a narrower uphill trail opposite the hunting blind. The trail will then fork and take you to 1 of three different parts of the crag: Cat & Mouse on the right, Totally Industrial / Leave it to Beaver (and the sign in box) in the middle, or off to the left will take you over to Flakin' and beyond.

Ética

Leave no trace. This includes not spray painting the rocks or tossing cigarette butts around. You'd think that would be obvious, but here we are.

Etiquetas

Vias

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Grade Via

Dihedral to overhang. Located on section right of the approach trail.

FA: Todd Foster & Dave Wilsie

Slab and arete right of Cat and Mouse.

FA: Dave Wilsie & Elizabeth Gilbert, 2014

Crack around the corner from Who Needs Viagra.

FA: Dave Wilsie, 2014

FA: Ray Seto

FA: Mick Levin & Todd Foster, 2014

FA: Todd Foster & Mick Levin, 2014

Bolted Crack dihedral next to Totally Industrial.

FA: Sean Therien

FA: Jamie Simpson & Rich LaPaix, 2012

FA: Nate Smith, 2010

FA: Todd Foster, 2010

FA: Todd Foster, 2010

Guidebook says 6 bolts for 40m, which seems either really R-rated, or under-reported. Or more bolts were added later?

FA: Sean Therien, 2010

Mixed route. 7 bolts, one G-rated crack.

FA: Jamie Simpson & Rich LaPaix, 2012

Variation that goes directly up the prominent crack on the overhang above, with one medium cam. The start is the same.

FA: Mick Levin, 2011

Long sport climb up the slab (crux), left, right and up to the overhanging crack. skirt right and up the flake then either head up left or right of spruce tree to top anchors and a view.

FA: Todd Foster, 2010

Climb the wall to the right of Phat Tuesday. Climb up and fight to notch in roof.

FA: Sean Therien, 2010

Climb first five bolts of Mr. T's Wild Ride, then head up the crack on the steep wall.

FA: Jamie Simpson & Matt Walker, 2012

Climb the face and arete to the left of Mr. T. This climb goes on for ever, with lots of rope drag unless you skip bolts

FA: Sean Therien & Todd Foster, 2010

FA: Todd Foster & Nate Smith, 2010

Other side of the arete from Dripping Crack, ascends to the same hanging block and then up to the Hollywood Bowl section. Natural anchor (tree) can be used to rap down (to climber's right), or can walk left on the ledge to come down from the rap station above Moment of Silence.

FA: Jamie Simpson & Zack Metcalf, 9 Nov 2017

FA: Dave Willsie, 2010

See Rock Climbing Nova Scotia guidebook, p. 175

FA: Mick Levin, 11 Nov 2017

FA: Alec Manley

scooped slab with cracked wall to the left.

FFA: S. Therien & T. Foster

FA: Sean Therien & Todd Foster, 2010

FA: Rodger Fage & Mick Levin

Set: Todd Foster

Short slab climb.

FA: Gavin King & Amanda Thalmann, 2013

FA: Matt Peck & Dave Willsie, 2011

FA: Matt Peck & Dave Willsie, 2011

FFA: S Therien & T Foster

FA: Gavin King & Amanda Thalmann, 7 Jun 2014

FFA: Seb Launcelot & M Loydd, 2010

FFA: Todd Foster, 2010

FFA: Sean Therien & Dave Willsie, 2010

FA: Sean Therien, 2010

Climb the face to the left of the arête. Large holds lead to crack. Top anchor with two rings. Nice easy beginner lead. Somewhere around six bolts.

FA: Todd Foster, 2010

FFA: Mick Levin & Todd Foster, 2010

FFA: Mick Levin & A Nette, 2010

Start around the corner to the left of Knowledge Enema. Stem across the wide crack and move over onto the steep wall at the horizontal. Crux move on hidden hold get you established on the wall. Big holds and a scramble take you to the anchor, This climb was put up as an approach route for Safety is my Middle Name.

FA: Alec Soucy & Todd Foster, 4 Jun 2018

From the anchors for No Call Waiting move up on big holds to a steeper section with strange holds. Continue up the bulge and finish on the slab

FA: Todd Foster & Dave Wilsie, 2014

FA: Nate Smith & Todd Foster, 2010

FA: Nate Smith & Todd Foster, 2010

FA: Nate Smith & Todd Foster, 2010

FA: Gavin King & Amanda Thalmann

FA: Gavin King & Amanda Thalmann, 2013

FA: Sean Therien, 2010

FA: DJ Dyno

FA: Dan Jolivet, 30 Jun 2016

FA: Matthew Peck & Dave MacFadden, 2 Feb 2019

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