Mont de l'ours Todos Escalada trad 16 vias no local

The first climb of the new sector (left of Astro). Fully equipped for sport climbing. A slightly overhung wall with lots of pockets, some good, others not so much; the trick is finding the right ones.

Mostly trad, with one bolt protecting the crux, this varied climb will not let you down. It is recommended to belay from the top of the boulders (through the cave).

The leftmost climb of the multi-pitch area was recently (2021) re-cleaned by Tom Canac and Cynthia Roy-Leblanc. Its start and finish through a clean dihedral and hand/finger crack give it the status of classic moderate.

Climbing

1. 5.8 30m: Start the clean dihedral at the climber's left extreme of the area. Make your way around the bulge and follow the left ramp to easier terrain following the path of least resistance through mossy terrain. There is a bolted anchor 20m from the ground but it is best to build a gear anchor on a nice ledge 45m into the pitch.

2. 5.7 55m: Keep following the path of least resistance toward a clean hand/finger (5.7) crack leading to a big block or, 3m to the right, a dirtier dihedral (5.6). Once next to the big block, head right into the 10m dihedral/crack (5.5). Bolted anchor.

Short single-pitch climb that reaches the first anchor of 'Fantaisie Spatiale' and deserves more traffic. Bring small stoppers and Cams under #0.75 for the arch.

1. 5.9 20m: Either climb the starting dihedral of 'Astro' or the left variant of 'Fantaisie Spatiale' into the obvious arch to a bolted anchor.

2. Finish through 'Fantaisie Spatiale' or rappel down.

1. 5.8 20m: Reach the obvious dihedral between 'Aero''s and 'Puf! Puf! Puf!' through one of three variants. After the dihedral, a water-polished section offers great holds to reach a bolted anchor.

2. 5.6 30m: Climb some uncleaned rock on the arete to reach a gear anchor inside the cave created by the big rock. Possible 5.9 line to the right of the cave.

3. Exit up and right (unknown) or reach one of the finish cracks of 'Astro' (5.7)

Very nice clean 20m dihedrals with great finger jams. on very good quality rock.

1. Same as 'Puf! Puf! Puf!'

2. Climb one of the three dihedrals with similar grades.

Once your reach the toe of the Mont de l'Ours buttress, follow the base of the mountain leftwards until you reach an obvious gully.

1. 5.6 25m: Climb the left side of the gully getting past 1-2 moves between every ledge to reach the same bolted anchor as 'Le Blues de la brosse a dents'

2. 5.7 30m: Delicately traverse right into the biggest dihedral available or downclimb a few meters to gain the same dihedral more easily. Stem your way up this beauty until you reach a nice rest. Keep following the same crack system to a bolted anchor.

Usually climbed in three pitches but could be four if you stop at the first bolted anchor.

1. 5.8

   Start in a chimney-like feature making your way to a first ledge with a big boulder. Climb up and left towards a bolted anchor. From there, either traverse left to another bolted anchor and head straight up to the obvious crack with a nose (Pinocchio) OR climb up from the first bolted anchor and traverse the slab a little higher to reach the same feature. Build a gear anchor there.

2. 5.8

   Climb up the obvious crack feature and follow the natural path of least resistance (trending right-ward) until you reach the second bolted anchor of 'La Directe de l'ours'.

3. 5.6

   Same as 'La Directe de l'ours', climb up the thin finger crack to an exit crux onto a pocketed slab to a bolted anchor.

Descent: Rappel with two ropes down 'La Directe de l'ours' . Be mindful of ascending parties and watch out for wind when tossing ropes and horns when pulling them.

One of the more traveled routes on the Mont de l'Ours. Dries out fast in the spring due to unsettling wind and south-facing conditions.

Climbing

1. 5.5 45m: The first pitch starts at the toe of the buttress, on its right side (facing the parking lot). Climb the line that attracts you, may it be the wide crack on the left, the easy face in the middle, or the hand crack rail on the right. Eventually made your way to a clean dihedral (5.5) or escape on the easier ground just to the right. Before the obvious crack systems start trending right, either build a gear anchor or climb slightly up and left to find the bolted rappel anchor.

2. 5.7 60m: Follow the obvious crack system that is trending rightwards until you reach a broken-up corner that leads to a nice ledge. You could choose to build a gear anchor here. Look up for an obvious wide crack (5.7) and follow it up to a second bolted rappel anchor located below the obvious finger crack of P3.

3. 5.6 35m: Climb the obvious finger crack, exiting on a cheese-grater style pocketed slab. Climb past one giant bolt to reach the top rappel anchor.

Variations

1. P2: 5.8+ Follow a crack system straight above the anchor. Very technical and fun climbing. The pitch is sustained at the grade and protects mostly with finger-sized pieces and nuts.

2. P2: 5.8 Follow a crack system past two bolts straight up

3. P2: 5.6 Keep going right along a ramp past the ledge to a tree belay and then straight up to the summit. This variant climbs a different P3 at around 5.5

Descent

• Always rappel this route.

• DO NOT attempt hiking out

  you are not anywhere near the summit of this mountain.

• Use two 60m ropes to descend from the summit in three rappels. straight down. Beware of the wind and many opportunities for your rope to get stuck. It is possible to rappel into the climber's right gully and use the trees to get down if your rope gets stuck.

Start near the start of 'La Directe de l'ours' and follow the path of least resistance trending up and right following rails and broken cracks. Possibility of reaching the last pitch of 'La Directe de l'ours'.

Descent

Same as 'La Directe de l'ours'