Ajuda

Tour de controle

  • Contexto da graduação: US
  • Ascensões: 3

Sazonalidade

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Questões de acesso herdado de Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres

Climbing is tolerated in Zec des Martres. Climbing in Grands-Jardins is handled in association with the FQME and climbers should have a day- or annual-membership.

Parc/Zec entrance fees would also be payable.

Vias

Adicionar via(s) Adicionar croqui Reordenar Edição em massa Converter grau
Grade Via

Start at the trail from Le Dome parking lot and take every left turn. Once you reach the cliff, walk left along it until the trail ends. This is the left-most climb in this sector.

This is a traversing route that angles upwards and left, ending at the anchors for l'Initiation. Walk off using the descent trail for l'Initiation.

All gear anchors, except for the l'Initiation anchor at the top of pitch four.

FA: Pierre Pilon & Stephan Frick, 1973

FA: Gaetan Martineau & Jacques Lamontagne, 1979

FA: R. Richard, Pierre Pilon & Anita Petitclerc, 1971

1 5.6
2 5.7
3 5.3
4 5.6
5 5.8

Probably the most climbed out of all the lines on this wall, yet you'll rarely see a soul besides your party, if not for the occasional shout coming for the next sector.

  1. 5.6X 40m: Climb the dôme's typical pocketed and highly textured rock, follow the path of least resistance. Pass between a room (left) and a large staircased undercling flake (right). Make your way up and left. Build a gear anchor about 15m above the roof. Protection is scarce, but the climbing feels secure.

  2. 5.7R 40m Follow more of the same, aiming to bypass the large roof by the left. A broken up section allows you through to a decent ledge with a large pine tree. Natural anchor.

  3. 5.3R 30m Traverse right along a ledge, to a few easy moves to gain the Tree terrasse. Belay your second up, then move the anchor about 20m right, setting up to bypass the roof on the right. Alternatively, for P4, you can climb on the left of the roof, making a cool mantle move on the block creating a coffin-like cave (5.7x)

  4. 5.6G 40m Climb straight through the roof crack exit (5.7, similar to "wet dream") or exit on good hold on the right. Follow the path of least resistances/cracks. Look out for the traverse on your left leading to the money pitch roof crack exit. Build a gear anchor somewhere near the traverse.

  5. 5.8G 30m Traverse left, making exposed moves on good holds. Enjoy your time on these hero moves. If wet, you can either exit in the dirty dihedral just before the traverse (5.5) or use the "Soutien Gorge" exit, on the right.

Descent options

  1. 40m rappel to the tree terrasse, then a 35m rappel trending right as much as possible to the start of the second pitch of "Soutien Gorge". Either walk/downclimb/5m rappel towards climber's right.

  2. From the top, make your way to the Granuleuse bolted rappel anchors (not recommended on busy days).

  3. Possible (?) to make it to the "Initiation" descent trail.

Note: For the first two options, using the "Tache Blanche" trail to return to the parking lot is much easier.

Protection

Standard rack up to BD#3

FA: Gaetan Martineau & Jacques Lamontagne, 1979

FA: Jacques Lamontagne & Hugo Drouin, 2015

FA: Normand Lapierre & Marc Beauregard, 1977

FA: Claude Berube & Dave Cochrane, 1977

Olá!

Primeira vez aqui?

theCrag é um guia gratuito de escalada em rocha do mundo todo, editado voluntariamente por escaladores e simpatizantes. Você pode registrar todas suas vias, se conectar e conversar com outros escaladores, e muito mais…

» Descubra mais, » aprenda mais ou » nos questione algo

Acomodações próximas more Ocultar

Compartilhar isto

Tue 30 May
Veja o que está acontecendo em Tour de controle.

Get a detailed insight with a timeline showing

  • Ticks by climbers like you
  • Discussions of the community
  • Updates to the index by our users
  • and many more things.

Login to see the timeline!

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文