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Castlegar Guide

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Castlegar

Summary:
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Sazonalidade

335 routes in Region

Escalada esportiva, Escalada trad e outros estilos

Lat / Long: 49.322009, -117.711195

ética

Be mindful of wildlife, especially in more remote areas.

herdado de West Kootenays

1.1. Waterline Walls

Summary:
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Sazonalidade

70 routes in Crag

Escalada esportiva e Escalada trad

Lat / Long: 49.277082, -117.660680

questões de acesso

The area has been purchased by The Association of West Kootenay Rock Climbers. It is open as of July 20, 2020. Visit https://tawkroc.org/ for more info and to sign their waiver.

acesso

Limited parking is available on the dirt road, please park at the nearby baseball fields (Kinnaird Park, 14 Ave & 26 St) and walk in.

ética

Visit https://tawkroc.org/ for more info and to sign their waiver.

história

Although some routes had been climbed in the 90s, and maybe earlier, major development of the area started in 2005. The area however was located on private property, which put access at risk when the property was put up for sale in 2018. Thankfully, the property was purchased by local climbers and the climbing area was set to be sub-divided from the rest of the property and sold to a local access group.

The area was purchased by The Association of West Kootenay Rock Climbers and opened back up to the public in July 2020.

1.1.1. Raven Wall

Summary:

30 routes in Cliff

Escalada esportiva e Escalada trad

Lat / Long: 49.277432, -117.660560

descrição

A nice wall close to the parking. Despite being west-facing, the left-side of the wall has enough tree cover to remain shaded all day.

The trail along the base of the cliff does reach the top of the cliff near the right (south) end.

acesso

From the gate, walk a few minutes, then turn left at the obvious climbers' trail and TAWKROC sign -- the cliff is visible from the wide multi-use trail.

descent notes

Rappel or lower from anchors.

1.1.2. The CBC Wall

Summary:

8 routes in Cliff

Escalada esportiva e Escalada trad

Lat / Long: 49.276595, -117.660594

1.1.3. Big Boulder

Summary:

8 routes in Cliff

Mostly Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 49.276087, -117.660457

1.1.4. Valhalla Wall

Summary:

6 routes in Cliff

Escalada trad e Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 49.275722, -117.660398

1.1.5. The Corners

Summary:

11 routes in Cliff

Escalada trad e Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 49.275475, -117.660272

1.1.6. Nurses Wall

Summary:

6 routes in Cliff

Escalada trad e Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 49.275386, -117.660039

1.2. Kinnaird Bluffs

Summary:
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Sazonalidade

95 routes in Crag

Escalada trad, Escalada esportiva e outros estilos

Lat / Long: 49.267296, -117.662682

descrição

Historic climbing area in Castlegar, now owned by The Association of West Kootenay Rock Climbers.

ética

Visit https://tawkroc.org/ for more info and to sign their waiver.

1.2.1. Yellow Sling Wall

Summary:

13 routes in Cliff

Escalada trad e Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 49.266314, -117.662985

1.2.2. The Open Book Wall

Summary:

13 routes in Cliff

Escalada trad e Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 49.266986, -117.664151

1.2.3. Transgression Wall

Summary:

5 routes in Cliff

All Escalada trad

Lat / Long: 49.266678, -117.663671

1.2.4. Sunshine Wall

Summary:

4 routes in Cliff

All Escalada trad

Lat / Long: 49.266972, -117.663284

1.2.5. Squeeze Chimney Wall

Summary:

11 routes in Cliff

Mostly Escalada trad

Lat / Long: 49.266484, -117.663216

1.2.6. Polished Wall

Summary:

13 routes in Cliff

Escalada esportiva e Escalada trad

Lat / Long: 49.267982, -117.663909

descrição

Climbing on glacier-polished rock.

acesso

When the main approach trail reaches the Open Book wall, turn left and follow the obvious trail uphill (north) until it reaches this wall. Trail reaches wall about in front of "Via Escondida".

descent notes

Rappel or lower from anchors.

1.2.7. Whirlwind Wall

Summary:

10 routes in Cliff

Escalada trad e Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 49.267772, -117.663349

descrição

More info here

acesso

Approach from the right end of "Polished Wall" rather than up the awful gully right of "Sunshine Wall".

descent notes

Rappel or lower from anchors.

1.2.8. Hail Mary Wall

Summary:

16 routes in Cliff

Mostly Escalada trad

Lat / Long: 49.266831, -117.661180

1.2.9. Red Rocks Wall

Summary:

5 routes in Cliff

Escalada trad e Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 49.266296, -117.662615

1.2.10. Hail Mary North Wall

Summary:

5 routes in Cliff

All Escalada trad

descrição

Routes are on private property and should not be climbed.

acesso

On private property and should not be climbed.

história

Old Routes that were climbed in the 80s but are now located in people's backyards and should not be climbed.

1.3. Lions Head

Summary:
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Sazonalidade

24 routes in Crag

Escalada esportiva, Escalada trad e Escalada em rocha

Lat / Long: 49.335383, -117.680473

1.3.1. Lion's Head Wall

Summary:

12 routes in Crag

Escalada esportiva, Escalada trad e Escalada em rocha

Lat / Long: 49.335427, -117.683079

acesso

Park at the end of Horkoff Rd (49.334570, -117.686041). Please park on the grassy area past the pavement at the end of Horkoff Road. Do not block any driveways. Then follow the access trail marked with cairns and pink flagging tape.

1.3.2. Pub Wall

Summary:

12 routes in Cliff

Escalada esportiva, Escalada trad e Escalada em rocha

Lat / Long: 49.333812, -117.676780

descrição

Cliff directly behind Lion’s Head Smoke and Brew Pub. Great wall of mostly balency slab climbing, with a few crack climbs on the right and around the corner.

acesso

Park behind the Lion’s Head Smoke and Brew Pub (49.333530, -117.676952), walk about 5 meters to the wall.

descent notes

Have a well earned drink at the pub after your climb.

1.4. Arrow Lakes

Summary:
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Sazonalidade

92 routes in Area

Escalada esportiva, Escalada trad e Escalada em rocha

Lat / Long: 49.361246, -117.847938

1.4.1. Tulip Falls

Summary:

14 routes in Crag

Escalada esportiva, Escalada trad e Escalada em rocha

Lat / Long: 49.367371, -117.931105

sumário

How often can you climb beside a waterfall?

descrição

Beautiful crag in near Syringa Provincial Park at Tulip Falls. A few of the climbs are right beside the waterfall, and a second wall in the woods just off the main trail.

More detailed topo can be found here http://squamishclimbingmagazine.ca/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/TULIP-FALLS-CRAG.pdf

questões de acesso

Some of the climbs are at a popular tourist destination, be prepared to have spectators at busy times.

acesso

Drive: Take the Robson Rd exit off highway 3A, then turn right on Broadwater Rd. Continue for ~17.5 km then head right onto the forest road. Continue for 4km then park in the clearing just after the bridge.

Falls Wall: Walk down the hiking trail along the river bank to the waterfall.

Tulip Wall: Walk down the main trail for about 50m (1 min), then take the trail left for another 2 minutes to the wall.

1.4.2. Raspberry Wall

Summary:

3 routes in Crag

Escalada esportiva e Escalada trad

Lat / Long: 49.346980, -117.804144

1.4.3. Ovis & Odocoileous Walls

Summary:

8 routes in Crag

Mostly Escalada trad

Lat / Long: 49.344057, -117.825189

acesso

Park on the south side of the road around (49.342887, -117.824827). Then look for the trail that starts right of the cliff, between the wall and the utility pole.

Odocoileous Wall will be a short distance up the trail on the left. Continue following the flagging tape to get to Ovis Wall.

1.4.4. RFW Wall

Summary:

5 routes in Crag

All Escalada trad

Lat / Long: 49.344409, -117.835303

história

First developed by Recreation Fish and Wildlife students at Selkirk College.

1.4.5. Waterfall Walls

Summary:

16 routes in Crag

Mostly Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 49.344427, -117.838609

1.4.6. Zebra Rock

Summary:

5 routes in Cliff

All Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 49.343186, -117.841064

descrição

Roadside cliff (watch for traffic) with very distinctive black stripes.

acesso

Park just east of the wall at the pull out on the south side of the road (49.343508, -117.839523). Then walk down the road to the crag.

1.4.7. Wapiti Wall

Summary:

13 routes in Crag

Escalada esportiva e Escalada trad

Lat / Long: 49.342665, -117.820628

descrição

Small crag just off the edge of the road. Watch for traffic.

acesso

Park at the small pullout on the southside of the road right across from the cliff.

1.4.8. Big Horn Wall

Summary:

2 routes in Area

All Escalada trad

Lat / Long: 49.351197, -117.791016

1.4.9. Cat Wall

Summary:

15 routes in Crag

Escalada trad e Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 49.344893, -117.805658

acesso

Park at the pulloff on the south side of the road at (49.342749, -117.803771). Walk along the trail across the road into the boulder field and Cat Wall.

1.4.10. Roadside Wall

Summary:

8 routes in Crag

Escalada trad e Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 49.344348, -117.801186

acesso

Park at the pulloff on the south side of the road at (49.342749, -117.803771). Walk east along the road for about 100-150 m then walk off the road, up the hill to the crag.

1.4.11. KeTaMux

Summary:

3 routes in Crag

Escalada esportiva e Escalada trad

Lat / Long: 49.345767, -117.820627

1.5. Arrow Lakes Boulders

Summary:
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Sazonalidade

9 routes in Area

All Boulder

Lat / Long: 49.351076, -117.825914

sumário

Boulders of the North shore of arrow lake.

acesso

Most of the boulders are found along Broadwater Rd on the north shore of Arrow Lake, just north of Castlegar.

1.5.1. Keenlyside Boulders

1.5.2. Fantasyland

1.5.3. The Range

1.5.4. Ponderosa / Fukishima Boulders

1.5.5. Cat Boulders

Summary:

1 route in Field

Lat / Long: 49.344803, -117.803506

acesso

Park at the pulloff on the south side of the road at (49.342749, -117.803771). Take the trail across the road up to the boulder field.

1.5.6. Predator Ridge

1.5.7. Washout Boulders

1.5.8. Beachside Boulders

Summary:

8 routes in Field

Lat / Long: 49.343295, -117.833511

1.5.9. Syringa Boulders

1.6. Brilliant Bluffs

Summary:
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Sazonalidade

1 route in Cliff

All Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 49.323840, -117.609806

acesso

From the north-east corner of the power station, follow the sand road up and right, then branch left below the power lines. After a few hundred meters look for a climbers' trail that goes through the woods, then scramble up the (loose) talus. The climb will most likely be to your right as you exit the talus. It starts up a rounded buttress.

descent notes

There is a hiker's trail to the top -- keep left at each branch, and it will bring you out at the power station.

história

1.7. Pass Creek

Summary:
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Sazonalidade

29 routes in Area

Mostly Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 49.382316, -117.669948

descrição

acesso

Day parking is ONLY at the pass creek Hall (1989 Pass Creek Road Castlegar) Do not park on Pass Creek Road or any other roads.

From there, walk south along Pass Creek Road toward Castlegar for a few minutes until a trail ducks left and into the forest directly beside a 40km/h sign. Follow this trail uphill for 15 minutes until you reach the base of the crag.

ética

Access was granted in Spring 2019 to cross the property to access the bluffs, which are on crown land. This is a privilege that can be revoked at any time if we give reason. The biggest threats to access are Noise, Parking, Dogs, Garbage, Liability and Fire risk.

The following common-sense rules apply:

  • No climbing/bouldering until on crown land
  • Park only in designated parking area (Pass creek hall)
  • Don’t camp up there (Forest fire prevention)
  • Don’t bring your dog (Landowner has roaming dogs that love people, but not other dogs)
  • Smile and wave at locals, most are stoked to have a hiking trail in their neighborhood
  • This is a developing crag (red/pink ribbons indicate closed projects)

As a developing crag, there are ropes hanging, and equipment stashed. Please do not remove.

These are new routes: loose rock, untested hardware, ongoing development, runout sections and many other factors will require that you rely on your own skills and a heightened sense of safety at this crag. Climb at your own risk. If in any doubt, hire a guide.

1.7.1. The Loft

Summary:

4 routes in Crag

All Escalada esportiva

1.8. Champion Crag

Summary:

6 routes in Crag

Escalada trad e Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 49.233923, -117.648875

acesso

Park at the Mel Deanna Hiking area just off Hwy 3 (Between Castlegar and Salmo) (49.24841, -117.63764).

Follow the trail south, going right at the first split (at the shelter). Just past a large boulder (on the right side of the trail) head right onto a side trial marked with cairns. Continue on this trail to the top of the cliff then head right to find a rebar ladder to access the bottom of the cliff.

1.9. Grad Wall

Summary:
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Sazonalidade

9 routes in Crag

Mostly Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 49.327370, -117.639123

descrição

Family-friendly wall with grades from 5.7 to 5.10b. With panoramic views of Castlegar and fun 30m routes, you may ask your belayer to let you take it in before coming back down.

acesso

On Terrace Road, park about 300m up along the wide shoulder. There is an obvious path across the road up the grassy slope. The trail takes you up to a plateau where you'll cross a long ditch where a gas line runs. There is a path that continues on the other side. The path becomes steep again as it cuts through thick brush. Once through you should find yourself at a grassy bench with the Grad wall in front of you.

história

Developed by David Lussier in 2019 as part of a new routing clinic through the Association of West Kootenay Rock Climbers.

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