A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Constantine Dritsas Singing Bing DS Andrew Patrick Munnings AntonioAnuk kosta o_g 彭ㄎ
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Table of contents
- 1.
白山地区 White Mountain Crags / 7
170 in Area
- 1.1. 驼背山 Humpback Mountain / 7.1 3 in Crag
-
1.2.
鸡蛋山 The Egg / 7.2 49 in Crag
- 1.2.1. East Face / 煎蛋墙 / Fried egg face 6 in Sector
- 1.2.2. Fantasy Area / 梦幻墙 13 in Sector
- 1.2.3. The Northeast Face / 鸡蛋东北 22 in Sector
- 1.2.4. West Face / 日落墙 / Sunset Wall 8 in Sector
- 1.3. 禽人 Bird Man / 7.3 11 in Crag
- 1.4. 起死回生墙 Wall of the Damned / 7.4 13 in Crag
- 1.5. 白山 White Mountain / 7.5 70 in Crag
- 1.6. 高龙洞 Area 51 / 7.6 17 in Crag
- 1.7. Kiddie Crag / The Cyclops Wall 7 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. 白山地区 White Mountain Crags 170 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Escalada esportiva
Lat / Long: 24.723181, 110.527027
questões de acesso
Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You.
1.1. 驼背山 Humpback Mountain 3 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Escalada esportiva
Lat / Long: 24.731475, 110.522518
descrição
The main feature of Humpback mtn is the huge nose very visible from most parts of the Egg. On approach to the area, it is on the backside of the mtn next to the road...not immediately noticeable. Tuo Bei Shan is home to one of Yangshuo's premier multipitch climbs, Grandfathered In.
acesso
Tuo Bei Shan is the right turn 20m before the turn for the egg. Go through the dirt lot with the building on the left, at the bottom of the crag are a bunch of giant bamboo stands, go through the middle of the great bamboo to the wall...and then up up up!!!
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Old School
From the top of Grandfathered In P3, climb up a short P4 to a small ledge. Then continue straight up and through the overhanging nose with an anchor at the very tip of the prow above you. The route then continues up to join with Grandfathered In at the P5/P6 belay. This pitch is the reason why Grandfathered IN was developed. Overhung, slab, and weird beta... good route. Set: Andrew Hedesh & matt Krakowski, 2018 FA: Tj, 2018 | 5.12a | 15m, 5 | |||
2 |
mama's backporch
From the top of Grandfathered In P4, traverse left out along the edge of the nose to finish at the belay near the tip. (same belay as for Old School). continue straight up to join grandfathered In. Set: Flo Vogel, 2018 | 5.11b | ||||
3 |
★★★ Grandfathered In
VERY IMPORTANT! Descent : Do not abseil the top two pitches of this route ! While facing the anchor and with your back toward the climbing: throw your rope at the 4:00 O'clock angle and abseil 22m to a hanging belay nestled on some white rock. continue straight downt he wall for 2 more abseils arriving at the anchor above P4. FA: ATao & Andrew Hedesh, 2013 | 5.10d | 140m, 6 |
1.2. 鸡蛋山 The Egg 49 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Escalada esportiva
Lat / Long: 24.729271, 110.517884
- 百度地图导航到 天井 或高德地图导航到 鸡蛋山 就在路边,沿小径上山1分钟即可到达鸡蛋东北。
sumário
山的形状像个鸡蛋,接近方便,中级线路众多,阳朔最受欢迎的岩场之一。
descrição
There are at least 37 routes on high quality rock with grades ranging from 5.7 to 5.12b. The climbs are mostly single pitch with a few multi pitch routes as well. The crag incorporates the East Face, North East Face, North Face and West Face. Because The Egg faces three sides it is possible to climb in either the sun or shade at any time of the day. The North and West faces stay mostly dry in the rain.
acesso
Since construction is going on, the book's approach is slightly outdated. Once construction is complete getting to this crag will be much easier. Details about the year it will be complete is unknown.
Unfortunately, this also means that the view is now of dirt roads instead of green fields.
Get onto the G65 towards Ai Shan by turning left at the major intersection. The Vienna International Hotel should be on your left as you make the turn. Stay on this road until you spot a 5 star looking resort/hotel. While it is tempting to turn at this road, turn at the next left which actually has a complete road.
Turn left again and follow this road until you find Banyan Tree. Turn right just before the tree, do not follow the road the tree is on, that's for a different crag. Follow the road and eventually a dirt track will appear on the right. Keep going along this dirt track until you see a blue sign with faces on it. From there just follow the dirt track on foot.
Be careful during the monsoon season, as the mud can be quite slippery for ebikes.
1.2.1. East Face 6 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Escalada esportiva
Lat / Long: 24.728875, 110.518337
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Crispy
FA: Paul Collis, 2007 | 5.9 | 29m, 9 | |||||
2 |
★★ Straw Noise Sheep Ernie
Technical climbing FA: Simon Wilson, 2005 | 5.10b | 26m, 7 | |||||
3 |
★★★ Eggstatic
The 1st pitch is technical climbing on small holds. FA: Simon Wilson | 5.11c | 45m, 2, 16 | |||||
4 |
★ Chocolate Milk Crack
FA: Kalle Viira & Helja Karna, 2005 | 5.9 | 26m, 8 | |||||
5 |
★★ Round Table Conference
Extension of Chocolate Milk Crack. Set: Zhang Yong, 2013 | 5.12d | 34m, 17 | |||||
6 |
★ Cover Boy Meets Mr Hilti
Steep bouldery start FA: Kalle Viira & Helja Karna, 2005 | 5.9 | 26m, 7 |
1.2.2. Fantasy Area 13 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Escalada esportiva
Lat / Long: 24.729262, 110.518276
acesso
可以由鸡蛋东北前往。
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ The Deviant Direct
FA: Paul Collis & Andrew Christensen | 5.9 | 62m, 3 | |||||
2 |
★★ The Never Ending Story
Can be led as one pitch to the top anchor and descended in two rappels. 7 bolts for each pitch. FA: Dave Gliddon & Colton Lindeman | 5.10d | 40m, 2, 7 | |||||
3 |
★★ Da Moguai
1st pitch as the same as The Never Ending Story. Can be led as one pitch to the top anchor and descended in two rappels. FA: Dave Gliddon & Colton Lindeman | 5.11d | 40m, 2 | |||||
4 |
★ The Deviant, Original Start
This pitch goes to the belay on the large ledge at 25m but if you are not doing the upper pitches you can avoid the traverse by lowering of the belay at 22m. FA: Dan Hannah & Paul Collis | 5.9 | 22m, 6 | |||||
5 |
★★ Tail Spin
FA: Paul Collis & Andy Halkyard, 2009 | 5.11b | 22m, 10 | |||||
6 |
★★ Bad Egg
FA: Paul Collis & Dan Hannah, 2008 | 5.11c | 25m, 10 | |||||
7 |
★★★ Duck
FA: Marshall Balick, JMorris, Paul collis & Bob Keaty | 5.11b | 24m, 11 | |||||
8 |
★★★ Wonderful World
FA: Paul Collis & Bob Keaty, 2007 | 5.10d | 30m, 12 | |||||
9 |
Pumpy Brewster
The big holds are on the left. It follows the obvious arete up the left side of the face -- it would be quite a good route if not for the plethora of large and line-bending holds to the left. The end result is a route that looks pretty nice from the ground, but doesn't climb nearly so nice in practice. FA: Tyson Wallace & Qiu Jiang, 2008 | 5.10d | 21m, 8 | |||||
10 |
★★ Mr Greenwood
Shares the start with Pumpy Brewster. FA: Colton Linderman, 2007 | 5.12b | 21m, 7 | |||||
11 |
★ Sha Bi Abi
FA: Jen DeRose & Erik Schnack, 2005 | 5.10a | 21m, 9 | |||||
12 |
★★ Absent Friends
Shares the start with Sha Bi Abi. Excellent quality technical climbing, don't be put off by the tricky start! FA: Paul Collis & Andrew Christensen, 2007 | 5.9 | 21m, 9 | |||||
Excess routesThe following routes need deleting | ||||||||
14 | ★★ Corner | {AU} 23 | 25m |
1.2.3. The Northeast Face 22 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Escalada esportiva
Lat / Long: 24.729666, 110.517900
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Too Much Ecstasy
FA: Marisa Field & Claire Tetley, 2007 | 5.10d | 22m, 9 | |||||
2 |
★★ Baozi Bonanza
Set: Andrew Hedesh FA: Ryan Weller, 2011 | 5.10c | 21m, 7 | |||||
3 |
★★ Consolation Prize
FA: Paul Collis & Kalle Viira, 2006 | 5.10b | 20m, 7 | |||||
4 |
★ Hustler's Roof
Shares the start with Consolation Prize. FA: Kalle Viira & Paul Collis, 2006 | 5.11c | 22m, 9 | |||||
5 |
★★ The Way to Helldurado
FA: Colton Lindeman, 2006 | 5.12d | 22m, 11 | |||||
6 |
★ The Wiggle / Three's a Crowd
FA: Kalle Juhani Viira, 2006 | 5.12b | 22m, 10 | |||||
7 |
★★ Final Decade
FA: Kalle Viira & Simon Dilks, 2006 | 5.10d | 18m, 9 | |||||
8 |
★★ New Decade
Hard thin face climbing up the pillar right of Final Decade. Shares the start and the chain with Final Decade. FA: Yann Gauthier, 2006 | 5.12a | 22m, 10 | |||||
9 |
★★★ Hanging in the Balance
Excellent face climbing, long moves on small holds. FA: Jen DeRose, Kalle Juhani Viira & Erik Schnack, 2005 | 5.11a | 22m, 8 | |||||
10 |
★★ Chuck if Ya want to
Warning Fixed Gear: 顶两个梅隆锁挺锈了,要换了 FA: Dave Gliddon, 2005 | 5.11d | 22m, 9 | |||||
11 |
★ All That Heaven Allows
Just to the right of Chuck If Ya Want To lies this sweet and short rookie climb inside the cave. there are 2 sets of anchors in the cave, 1 for this short route and the other for toproping the "chimney" | 5.6 | 10m, 4 | |||||
12 |
★★ Poser‘s Lonely Reunion
Keep left going around the roof, on the right it’s Way down east 11b FA: Kalle Juhani Viira & Xiao Si, 2006 | 5.10d | 22m, 9 | |||||
13 |
★★★ Strike a Pose
Continue past the anchor of PLR for another 4 bolts to the anchor. Steeper climbing on good holds. Set: Andrew FA: Patrick Munnings, 24 Aug 2023 | 5.11a | 31m, 15 | |||||
14 |
★★ 一路向东Way Down East
The natural line climbs into Rooster Booster then around the roof and is around 10b/c. Set: Jerry zhong, 2022 | 5.11b | 33m, 15 | |||||
15 |
★★ Rooster Booster
FA: Paul Collis & Bob Keaty | 5.10b | 31m, 14 | |||||
16 |
★★ All the King's Horses
FA: Paul COllis & Bob Keaty | 5.10a | 27m, 13 | |||||
17 |
★ The Jungle Book
FA: Rock Abond, 2011 | 5.11c | 17m, 7 | |||||
18 |
★ Fantasia
Starts to the left next to Alice in Wonderland. 4 bolts to chains and a bit wet in places. FA: Rock Abond, 2011 | 5.6 | 10m, 4 | |||||
19 |
★★ Alice in Wonderland
Scarier than it looks. Could be creeping onto 5.9 because of the blank space. Do not be fooled by the grade, requires lots of careful movement. FA: J Viitala, A Halkyard & Paul Collis, 2006 | 5.8 | 9m, 3 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Three new lines next to the road. It's all been cleaned out but there are still some falling stones. Wear a helmet. | ||||||||
21 |
★★ Unnamed 10b
The roof section is probably a bit harder than 10b. | 5.10b | 14 | |||||
22 |
★★ Unnamed 10b #2
The tallest of the new 3 lines. Very fun! The route says 10 b but it's probably a 10 c. | 5.10b | 35m, 16 | |||||
23 |
★★★ Unnamed 10c
Only one hard move. Overall very fun climb. | 5.10c |
1.2.4. West Face 8 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Escalada esportiva
Lat / Long: 24.729539, 110.517326
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Chicken Run
FA: Paul Collis & Sarah, 2006 | 5.10b | 27m, 12 | |||||
2 |
★★ Eggstreme Eggsposure
Shares the start with Chicken Run. FA: Dave Gliddon, Erik Schnack & Kalle Juhani Viira | 5.10b | 27m, 9 | |||||
3 |
★★ Handsaw Returns
FA: Dave Gliddon, Kalle Juhani Viira & Helija Karna, 2005 | 5.10a | 27m, 10 | |||||
4 |
★★ From Finland With Love
FA: Kalle Viira, Simon Dilks & Dave Gliddon, 2005 | 5.11a | 27m, 10 | |||||
5 |
★★ Let Me See Your War Face!
FA: Adndrew Hedesh & Andrew Hedesh, 2009 | 5.11d | 28m, 10 | |||||
6 |
★★ Pulling Perfection
FA: Dave Gliddon, 2006 | 5.10c | 27m, 13 | |||||
7 |
★★ Helter Incendo
Cranking fun! FA: Tyson Wallace, 2006 | 5.10c | 27m, 9 | |||||
8 | Trust Issues and Scar Tissue | 5.9 |
1.3. 禽人 Bird Man 11 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Escalada esportiva
Lat / Long: 24.727533, 110.524585
descrição
Bird Man is a large impressive South facing cliff that contains some serious multi pitch climbs in the 5.12 range. The Bird Man consists of two sections, the Left Tower and the Right Tower. The cliff takes sun for most of the day.
acesso
gaining the base of the wall requires a 5.13 bushwhack for 30m.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | No Name? | 5.10a | 14m | |||
2 |
Hand Full of Rocks
ends in the cave at the top of the wall. FA: D Gliddon, C Lindeeman & T Wallace | 5.10b | 100m, 5 | |||
3 |
★★★ Bird Man Goes Free
An impressive line up the middle of the buttress. FA: D Gliddon, C Lindeeman, T Wallace & A Christensen, 2007 | 5.12b | 110m, 4 | |||
4 |
Czech Line
1st Pitch 5.12b, 42 m, 8 bolts. 2nd Pitch 5.13a, 30m, 5 bolts. 3rd Pitch 5.12a, 50m, 9 bolts. 4th Pitch 5.10b, 25m, no bolts. FA: O Benes, T Sobotka & D Zleb | 5.13a | 150m, 4, 22 | |||
5 |
Zhongguo Zhengyi (China Busines)
1st Pitch 5.10a, 30m, 5 bolts. 2nd Pitch 5.10c, 15m, 4 bolts. 3rd Pitch 5.12b, 38m, 10 bolts. 4th Pitch 5.10d, 5 bolts. FA: H Gargitter & B Mock, 2007 | 5.12b | 110m, 4, 35 | |||
6 |
Flight Path
1st pitch: 5.8+, 27m. 2nd pitch 5.9, 25m. FA: Jim Gray, Paul Collis & Dan Hannah | 5.9 | 52m, 2 | |||
7 |
★ Test of Faith
FA: Paul Collis | 5.10a | 14m, 7 | |||
8 |
Swoop
FA: Bob Keaty, Paul Collis & Eben Farnworth, 2009 | 5.9 | 31m, 13 | |||
9 |
★★ House of Terrasaurus
The 3 pitches can be linked together if you don't mind rope drag, however its more fun to climb and belay at each pitch to enjoy the view. FA: Eben Farnworth & A dong, 2009 | 5.8 | 3 | |||
10 |
★ CHina Business
P1 5.10a P2 5.10c P3 5.12b P4 5.10d FA: Helli Gargitter & Berni Mock, 2007 | 5.12b | 4 | |||
11 |
★ Golden Local Guide
P1 5.8 P2 5.10b P3 5.10d P4 5.11a FA: Qiu Jiang邱江 Ba Yue八月, 2015 | 5.11a/b | 4 |
1.4. 起死回生墙 Wall of the Damned 13 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Escalada esportiva
Lat / Long: 24.714270, 110.529092
descrição
The Wall of the Damned is on the east side of White Mountain.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Virgin Sacrifice
FA: Jake Miller, 2011 | 5.11c | 25m, 13 | |||
2 |
Open Project 1
Same start as Virgin Sacrifice, it then moves right. Hard (mid 7's through hard 8's). Set: Jake Miller | 30m, 14 | ||||
3 |
El Diablo
FA: Juan Holquin Set: Jake Miller | 5.11c | 15m, 8 | |||
4 |
El Diablo Extension
Not rated so if you climb it make sure to give your opinion about the grade. Hard (mid 7's through hard 8's). Set: Jake Miller | 35m, 14 | ||||
5 |
Open Project 2
Hard (mid 7's through hard 8's). Set: Jake Miller | 37m, 15 | ||||
6 |
Open Project 3
Hard (mid 7's through hard 8's). Set: Jake Miller | 19m, 8 | ||||
7 |
Open Project 3 Extension
Hard (mid 7's through hard 8's). Set: Jake Miller | 35m, 15 | ||||
8 |
★★ Fear No Evil
First route on the left side of the cave FA: Jake Miller | 5.11c | 20m, 9 | |||
9 |
★★★ Fear No Evil Extension
FA: Jake Miller | 5.12b | 35m, 15 | |||
10 |
★★★ 煮面条
直上版本 FA: 萧** | 5.13b | 17m, 7 | |||
11 |
★★★ Dragon Breath
Set: Jake Miller FA: TJ, 2011 | 5.13a | 19m, 9 | |||
12 |
Too Many
FA: Nicolai Ng, 2011 | 5.12c | 13m, 7 | |||
13 |
The Black Death
FA: Jake Miller | 5.12b | 11m, 6 |
1.5. 白山 White Mountain 70 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Escalada esportiva
Lat / Long: 24.715531, 110.522752
- 百度地图导航
From the Deng Long Shan Village veer right onto a smaller road and follow it to where a "Y" intersection with a narrow blue sign is reached. Turn left and follow this into Zhou Sang Village. Where the concrete ends, a dirt track turns right over a small creek and eventually pass Wall of the Damned on your left then cross over a larger second creek. Go Straight at a small intersection, then shortly afterwards the track bends to the left and narrows. Turn Right onto the first trail that goes up a low rising hill. Follow the trail for 0.2km. White mountain will be on the right.
descrição
White Mountain is an impressive crag dominated by harder grade climbs. The massive wall is overhung and the climbing is both physical and sustained. The crag is South facing and is in the sun all day, however during summer some areas are in shade. The crag stays mostly dry during rain. However, if it is raining heavily some parts of the rock will become slick. Choose your climbs carefully!
acesso
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Pods 两个洞 | ||||||||
2 |
★★★ 蓝色魔法 Blue Magic / Torniquet
Scramble through caves to find the start. Set: Dave Gliddon FA: French Nike Team ACG, Mike & Axel, 2007 | 5.13d | 30m, 8 | |||||
3 |
崩塌的故事 The Tale of the Talus
FA: Seb Grieve, 2006 | 5.11d | 29m, 20 | |||||
4 |
辣米粉直上 Spicy Dumpling Direct Start
Open Project | |||||||
5 |
辣饺子 Spicy Dumpling
Branches off Spicy Noodle. Set: Chris Sharma, 2009 FA: Ethan Pringle, 2010 | 5.14d | 42m, 16 | |||||
6 |
★★★ 辣米粉 Spicy Noodle
FA: Chris Sharma, 2009 | 5.14b | 38m, 14 | |||||
7 |
★★ 金刚狼 The Axeman
起步同辣米粉,中间小洞休息处往右直上 FA: Neil Gresham, 2006 | 5.13b | 38m, 16 | |||||
8 |
★★★ 中国攀岩 China Climb
Set: Logan Barber, 2006 FA: A Bond, 2008 NA: 邱紫恒, Jan 2022 NA: 王沐易, 6 Apr 2022 NA: 王梓烁, 23 May 2022 FA: 陈云兮, 19 Nov 2022 | 5.14a | 31m, 15 | |||||
9 | 中国攀岩直上 China Climb Direct Start | |||||||
10 |
★★ 中国传奇 Cuento Chino / Wento Xino
起步同中国攀,2把快挂后往右切 FA: Oscar Gimenez, 2009 | 5.14a | 41m, 15 | |||||
11 |
★★★ 完美高潮 Happy End
FA: Oscar Gimenez, 2009 | 5.13d | 46m, 17 | |||||
12 |
完美/故事直上 Happy Chino Direct
Direct start to 中国传奇 Cuento Chino and 完美高潮 Happy End Open project Set: 阿邦, 2022 | |||||||
The Beach 耍废区 | ||||||||
14 |
小青蛇
扯蛋的左边,一条细细的水迹,浑然天成,状似出没白山岩壁的小青蛇。目前无首攀。难度估计5.14b以上 Set: Abond阿邦, 2020 | |||||||
15 |
★ 跳蛋 Bitch Fight
Sparse bolting in upper half, the new grade might not represent the true difficulty. FA: Gerome Pouvreau & Chen Xie Wei, 2005 | 5.13b | 24m, 7 | |||||
16 |
★★★ 扯蛋 Little Bastard
FA: Gerome Pouvreau & Chen Xie Wei, 2005 | 5.13b | 24m, 8 | |||||
17 |
★★ 冬至 Winter Solstice
扯蛋的延长线 Set: Ethan Pringle, 2010 FA: Dawei, Dec 2016 | 5.14c | 45m, 18 | |||||
18 |
黑衣人 Man In Black
短而硬 FA: DaWei, Mar 2016 | 5.13d | 25m, 8 | |||||
19 |
★★ 遗忘的记忆 Forgotten Memory
FA: Gerome Pouvreau & Chen Xie Wei, 2005 | 5.12a | 25m, 9 | |||||
20 |
★★★ 两面双刀 Aiding and Abetting
FA: James Murphy & Paul Collis, 2004 | 5.11d | 25m, 10 | |||||
21 |
★★★ 法国流氓 French Gangster
无耻的法国人在难点处打了个双指洞,留下阳朔唯一的人工点。YYDS沙马找到新动作,不用人工指洞完成了这条漂亮的线路,于是名字也由American Gangster(源自电影《美国黑帮》)改为法国流氓 Set: Colton Lindeman, 2006 FA: Nike/Beal team ACG Michael, 2007 | 5.14b | 47m, 25 | |||||
22 |
★★ 韩国头号 Korea No.1
FA: JH & Kim, 2008 | 5.13b | 27m, 7, 13 | |||||
23 |
★ 虎虎生威Panda remix
和韩国一号共起步,难点处利用右边的平台和脚点爬上去难度会直降一个数字 Set: Jerry zhong FA: Jerry zhong | 5.12a | 17m, 7 | |||||
24 |
★ 大太阳 Big Sun
Splits all the way left at the 3rd bolt of China White. FA: Simone Liu, 2006 | 5.11b | 17m, 8 | |||||
25 |
★★ 大太阳直上 Big Sun Direct
Set: Yangshuo Sport Climbing Association, Mar 2015 | 5.12a | 17m, 7 | |||||
26 |
★★★ 马到成功 Instant Success
FA: Abond, 2011 | 5.13d | 31m, 17 | |||||
27 |
★★★ 六指琴魔 Two in the Pink, One in the Stink
Breaks L out of China White then up. FA: Dave Gliddon, 2008 | 5.12c | 20m, 9 | |||||
28 |
★★★ 中国白 China White
FA: Seb Greive, 2005 | 5.12b | 20m, 9 | |||||
29 |
★★★ 金汤力 Gin and Tonic / Gin & Tonic
Same start as Tsing Tao Beer. FA: ACheng & Wang Er, 2007 FA: 2007 | 5.13b | 29m, 12 | |||||
30 |
★★★ 马提尼 Shaken Not Stirred
阳朔最长的单段 Set: Andrew Hedesh, 2011 FA: Nikolai Ng, 2011 | 5.13a | 53m, 20 | |||||
31 |
★★★ 青岛啤酒 Tsing Tao Beer
FA: Shinsuke Kimura & Rie Kimura, 2006 | 5.13a | 27m, 12 | |||||
32 |
★★ 黑鬼 Gang of Four
FA: Mark Garthwaite, 2005 | 5.12d | 28m, 12 | |||||
33 |
★★★ 白鬼 White Devil
FA: Neil Gresham, 2005 | 5.12d | 28m, 12 | |||||
34 |
★★ 江缘客栈 Smile Forever / 永远的微笑
Maybe the hardest 8a in Yangshuo. Climb the first 2 draws of Yangshuo Hotel and then go strait up. Enjoy the mono holds and compression climbing above. The first ascensionist named the route 永远的微笑 (smiling forever), but the route was called 江缘客栈 in the guidebook of the time (which was the name of the hostel owned by the route setter). That hostel closed down in 2020. Set: Zhang Yong FA: Abond, Mar 2015 | 5.13b | 27m, 13 | |||||
35 |
★★★ 阳朔旅馆 Yangshuo Hotel
FA: Shinsuke Kimura, 2006 | 5.12b | 33m, 17 | |||||
36 |
★★★ 阳朔旅馆支线Yangshuo Hotel Variation
阳朔旅馆支线,从垫脚石起步直上4把快挂后接入阳朔旅馆线路 FA: 何川, 14 Dec 2022 | 5.12b | 31m, 15 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
37 |
★★ 火鸟 Fire Bird
FA: Rie & Shinsuke Kimura, 2006 | 5.11c | 14m, 5 | |||||
38 |
★★ 没空 Inna Space Outta Time
Continuation of firebird. Climbs direct at the top for full grade. FA: Doug "the cunt" Robertson, 2011 | 5.12d | 33m, 14 | |||||
39 |
★★ 掉链子 The Missing Link
FA: Paul Collis, Chen Xie Wei & Liu Tao, 2004 | 5.10c | 14m, 6 | |||||
40 |
★★ 掉链子支线 The Missing Link - Variation
FA: Paul Collis, Chen Xie Wei & Liu Tao, 2004 | 5.12b | 20m, 10 | |||||
41 |
★★★ 喜羊羊Be Positive
难点是4进5这里的洞,不同人的难度感觉差别较大,因人而异。经过消耗战的顶链后需要很好的耐力,中间与消耗战共用4把快挂。 FA: 何川, 21 Dec 2022 | 5.12a | 35m, 15 | |||||
42 |
★★ 消耗战 Wall of Attrition
Another long pumper. As the angle eases, the holds get smaller. FA: Paul Collis, Cheng Xie Wei & Liu Tao, 2004 | 5.11c | 20m, 11 | |||||
43 |
★ 山顶洞人 Cave Man Pitch 1
FA: Paul Collis, Chen Xie Wei & Liu Tao, 2004 | 5.10d | 13m, 6 | |||||
44 |
★★ 山顶洞人 Cave Man Pitch 2
FA: Paul Collis, Chen Xie Wei & Liu Tao, 2004 | 5.11a | 30m, 14 | |||||
45 |
★★ 滑板鞋 Skate Shoes
Set: Xuan Niao & A Liang FA: A Liang, Jan 2015 | 5.11d | 15m, 8 | |||||
46 |
★★ 西街裸奔 West Streak
FA: Grant Farquhar, 2005 | 5.12a | 24m, 9 | |||||
47 |
★★★ 李医生按摩 Lily Li Session
FA: David Brasco, 2009 | 5.12b | 25m, 9 | |||||
48 |
★★★ 生日快乐Happy Birthday
与李医生按摩共用起步后向右,中间与西街裸奔交汇后在其左侧,交汇后与西街裸奔距离很近但线路和动作基本不重复。最后两把快挂难度降低,但间距较大。 FA: 何川, 21 Feb 2022 | 5.11c | 24m, 7 | |||||
49 |
★★ 金色年华 Golden Years
FA: Zhang Yong, 2012 | 5.12b | 24m, 9 | |||||
50 |
★★ 幸运区域 Lucky Zone
Powerful crux on pockets at the roof. FA: Soichiro Fukuda, 2007 | 5.12c | 24m, 8 | |||||
51 |
★★ 腊八Laba
Short Set: Jerry zhong FA: Jerry zhong | 5.10c | 15m, 6 | |||||
52 |
腊八延长线 Laba extension
腊八延长线,线路开放攀爬,难度预计5.13b/c Laba extension. Open project. Grade might be around 13b/c | 24m, 12 | ||||||
53 |
★★ 魔鬼棒 Devil Sticks
Starts immediatly left of SD, and shares its DBB. FA: Liu Xi Nan & Chen Xie Wei, 2005 | 5.12b | 24m, 9 | |||||
54 |
★★ 石狗 Stone Dog
FA: Paul Collis, Dingo & Lao Gan Ma, 2004 | 5.10d | 24m, 11 | |||||
55 |
★★ 不要汪汪 Wow Wow Mei Yao
FA: Torsten Gedicke, Susann Hantscho & Elke Schmitz, 2006 | 5.11b | 26m, 9 | |||||
凤凰小巷 Phoenix Row | ||||||||
57 |
★★★ 凤凰 Days of the Phoenix
Crimpy face climbing with a high crux. FA: Colton Lindeman, 2006 | 5.12a/b | 26m, 10 | |||||
58 |
★★ 啲嗒糖走私贩 The Tic Tac Smuggler
FA: Colton Lindeman, 2006 | 5.12d | 25m, 9 | |||||
59 |
★★★ 岩面线路 Face Route
FA: Paul Collis & James Murphy, 2004 | 5.11a | 28m, 13 | |||||
60 |
★★★ 圣诞快乐 Merry Christmas
FA: Zac & Katia Pisetzky, 2005 | 5.11b | 25m, 11 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
61 |
★★ 光明节快乐 Happy Chanukah
FA: Zac & Katia Pisetzky, 2005 | 5.12b | 20m, 7 | |||||
62 |
★★ 管理混乱 Management Flaws
FA: Xi Tang, 2006 | 5.12c | 20m, 8 | |||||
63 |
★ 西门庆 Captain Debauchery
Tuff tufa climbing. FA: Solly Fernandez, 2006 | 5.11c | 20m, 8 | |||||
64 |
★★ 喜剧演员 The Comedians
起步在一个钟乳的左边 FA: Mike Robertson, 2006 | 5.10d | 26m, 12 | |||||
65 |
★★ 大刀女侠 Girl With a Machete
Warning Rocha: 大块的松动落石 FA: Joe Picalli, 2006 | 5.11d | 25m, 11 | |||||
66 |
滑溜的乳头 Slippery Nipple
Steep crimpy and technical. FA: Colton Lindeman, 2005 | 5.13a | 25m, 11 | |||||
67 |
★ 异常 Abinormal
FA: Colton Lindeman & Abi Roberts, 2006 | 5.11c | 25m, 10 | |||||
68 |
★★ 蓝龙 Blue Dragon
FA: Luc Devantay, 2013 | 5.12b | 32m, 14 | |||||
69 |
★★ 两把刷子 Talented
FA: Paul Collis, Bob Keaty & Ton Ton, 2008 | 5.10b | 20m, 9 | |||||
70 |
★★ 橘子花香 Tangerine Blossom Fragrance
FA: Ton Ton, Paul Collis & Bob Keaty, 2008 | 5.10a | 21m, 12 | |||||
71 |
★ 蹑手蹑脚 The Prowl
FA: Andrew Christensen, 2007 | 5.10c | 17m, 7 | |||||
72 |
★ 娘炮双胞胎 Drag Queen Twins
Set: Zhang Yong FA: Yang YuLong | 5.10b | 12m, 5 | |||||
73 |
★ 美男子 All Up In It
Set: Zhang Yong FA: Yang YuLong | 5.6 | 12m, 5 |
1.6. 高龙洞 Area 51 17 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Escalada esportiva
Lat / Long: 24.720355, 110.537718
descrição
Two styles of climbing at this crag. Super overhung and vertical. Theres a nice cave to keep you cool yet a beautiful flat belay area to hangout. Its a nice place with routes spread across a huge grade range
acesso
Area 51 is located out the WHite Mtn road toward PuYi. But instead of turning at the big tree continue straight for 1.5km on the main road then turn right at a small concrete mixer industrial plant. Go 500m and park near a pump well. The crag is uphill behind the houses to the right.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
UFO GarageFrom the left side to the right of the cave. | ||||||||
2 |
★★ DNA
Set: Serge Sandulenko, 2017 FA: Brandon Crowley, 2017 | 5.8 | 18m, 8 | |||||
3 |
★★★ Space Cowboy
Set: Andrew Hedesh, 2017 FA: Harry Yuan, 2017 | 5.11a | 18m, 9 | |||||
4 |
Open Project One
Set: ABond, 2016 | 17m, 9 | ||||||
5 |
Open Project 2
Set: Andrew Hedesh | 30m, 13 | ||||||
6 |
Open Project 3
Set: Killian Fischhuber, Matthias Woitzuck & Anna Stohr, 2016 | 17m, 8 | ||||||
7 |
Open Project 4
Extension to OP3 Set: Killian Fischuber, Matthias Woitzuck & Anna Stohr, 2016 | 32m, 13 | ||||||
8 |
★★★ Warcraft
Set: Andrew Hedesh, 2016 FA: Ola Pryzbysz, 2016 | 5.13b | 30m, 11 | |||||
9 |
★★★ Black Belt
Set: Andrew Hedesh & Larocque, 2016 FA: Dawei, 2017 | 5.14a | 32m, 14 | |||||
10 |
★★★ No One Should Hear You Send
Set: Anderw Hedesh & Dave Aubury, 2016 FA: Simon Koytiger, 2017 | 5.12c | 32m, 14 | |||||
The RostrumRight wall from the block on the ground | ||||||||
12 |
★★ Restricted Access
Get on the boulder and keep left. Set: Andrew Hedesh, 2016 FA: Jeremie Lemaitre, 2016 | 5.11c | 37m, 17 | |||||
13 |
★ No Weak Shit
Starts off the boulder. Set: Andrew Hedesh FA: Ola Przybysz, 2016 | 5.13b | 30m, 13 | |||||
14 |
★★ Terrestrial
FA: Andrew Hedesh, 2016 | 5.11c | 20m, 7 | |||||
15 |
Extra Terrestrial
Open Project, extension to terrestrial Set: Andrew Hedesh | 32m, 12 | ||||||
16 |
★★ Abduction
Set: Andrew Hedesh FA: Jeremie Lemaitre | 5.11d | 30m, 13 | |||||
17 |
★ Space Invaders
FA: Andrew Hedesh & TJ, 2016 FA: Dave Pattinson, 2016 | 5.12d | 28m | |||||
18 |
★ She's an Alien!
FA: Karl Bussler, 2016 | 5.12a | 27m, 12 | |||||
19 |
★★ Piss and Moan
Set: TJ, 2016 FA: Andrew Hedesh, 2016 | 5.10d | 23m, 12 |
1.7. Kiddie Crag 7 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Escalada esportiva
Lat / Long: 24.717218, 110.524255
descrição
The Kiddie Crag is a small buttress located on the north side of White Mountain. A handful of routes are on offer in the easy to intermediate range and the crag can be used as a warm up venue before hitting the more physical climbs at White Mountain.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Yangshuo hello
FA: Tyson Wallace, 2006 | 5.10b | 25m | |||
2 |
★ Turbo Billy
FA: Dave Gliddon, 2006 | 5.9 | 10m | |||
3 |
★★ The Cyclops / Me versus cyclops
Extension of "Turbo Billy" FA: Dave Gliddon, 2006 | 5.11b | 21m | |||
4 |
Shame Fetish
Share start with "Turbo Billy" FA: Xiao Si, 2006 | 5.6 | ||||
5 |
Inflated Testes
FA: Xiao Si, 2006 | 5.8 | ||||
6 |
★ American Pie
FA: Xiao Si, 2006 | 5.8 | 10m | |||
7 |
Forgotten Boner
FA: Xiao Si, 2006 | 5.6 |