Ascensões em Europe como sport por David Gibbs

The most uncomfortable of my 5c leads for the trip -- the first half was always insecure -- slopy slippery hands and feet the whole way. I am just glad it was so closely bolted it was never particularly scary, despite being so insecure.

Clipping/cleaning the anchors is much harder than 5b, but I can understand that that's where the bolts needed to be.

Might be 5b+ if you're not comfortable with a hand-jam or two, but everyone should be.

A bit squeezed bewteen the routes to the left and right.

Excellent line, too bad the adacent root squeezes it so badly.

One 5c move.

Did all the moves, but took several tries at the crux.

Also good climbing, but sharper than Three Kings, so sometimes the holds just hurt more.

Excellent climbing on jugs. I was tired when I lead this, having just fought with one of the 6bs (on TR), but this opened up, and we had to grab it.

Seemed easier than Egon to the left, and better climbing and better bolting.

At least one of the guide-books calls this 6b+. It would not be a comfortable lead unless confident at the grade, as the bolting is a bit sparse by local standards.

I got all the moves -- but with lots of falls along the way.

Badly bolted and squeezed by the route to the left. Not worth climbing unless you want to set up top-ropes on the 6Bs to the right which share the anchor.

A real squeeze-job with Borge to the right.

I just couldn't read the moves fast enough without pumping, AFTER the crux. I was two moves from the no-hands rest. Excellent climb, and I'm sure I could red-point it, if I ever climb it again, since I'd know enough of the moves to not pump out as quickly.

A bit tough for a warm up, and the holds were a bit hard to read, but were all there.

Do not get on this climb expecting a usual Leonidio-area 5a lead.

Guide book says 5a -- but no way. It is harder than Kontakis (which seemed a solid 5c) (agreed by several climbers with very different body sizes and climbing styles.

Better, and steeper, than it looks.

I found some bad beta, and probably made it more like 6a at the top.

Good climbing, but the exposure on the arete makes it a classic.

Route-finding on a traverse can be less obvious than on a more vertical route -- but if you find the best way through, this is no harder than 5c. And quite enjoyable.

Guide book suggests extension is 5b, but really 5a seems fair.

Seems solid at 5c.

A few takes, but I got up it.

Of the three "5c"s in this section, this one was far away the hardest.

Linkup: (2b/14, 3b/12), (8/2, 9/2), 9/4, (10/3, 10/5)

Linkup: (2b/14, 3b/12), (8/2, 9/2), 9/4, (10/3, 10/5)

Linkup: (2b/14, 3b/12), (8/2, 9/2), 9/4, (10/3, 10/5)

Linkup: (2b/14, 3b/12), (8/2, 9/2), 9/4, (10/3, 10/5)

Linkup: (2b/14, 3b/12), (8/2, 9/2), 9/4, (10/3, 10/5)

Linkup: (2b/14, 3b/12), (8/2, 9/2), 9/4, (10/3, 10/5)

Linkup: (2b/14, 3b/12), (8/2, 9/2), 9/4, (10/3, 10/5)

The opening move was, maybe, 5a -- rest was mostly 4 or easier.