Grade | Via | Estilo de equipamento | Qualidade | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sun 19th May 2024 - Rocher Baron | |||||||
Quand on a que l'amour | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Quand on n'ose que l'amour | 20m | |||||
Pumpy
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Sun 19th May 2024 - Rocher Baron | |||||||
La Sieste au soleil | |||||||
6c | ★ Affirmatif yaka ! | 18m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Bouldering start
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Mon 13th May 2024 - Les Ayes | |||||||
L'eau vive | |||||||
6c+ ~7a | ★★ L' eau vive | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Rési !
|
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Mon 25th Dec 2023 - Entre-les-Aygues | |||||||
Dents de Coste Counier | |||||||
5c ~6a+ | ★★ Le diable par la queue | 500m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Before arête sud, 900 meters of climbing
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Fri 17th Nov 2023 - Rocher Maubert | |||||||
Sector 3 | |||||||
6b+ | ★ Unknown Route 2 | ★ Good | |||||
Leider komplett künstliche Route durch den Dach
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Wed 1st Nov 2023 - Tour Germaine | |||||||
5a | Tour germaine | 180m | |||||
Did only 4 pitches due to weather change. Bolts are scarce. Anchors good!
|
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Tue 17th Oct 2023 - Les Salettes | |||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Tétanos | 18m | |||||
Début engagé
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Sun 15th Oct 2023 - Ailefroide | |||||||
Glacier Blanc | |||||||
4c AD | ★★★ Première pointe des Cinéastes, voie des Gapençais | 200m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Voie des gapençais ou variante chaud.
Préférer le topo C2C, plus précis que le papier (JMC)
Fait en corde tendu + traversée jusqu'à la 6ème pointe.
Bon rocher, aisément protégeable, itinéraires multiples mais facilement lisible.
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Sat 14th Oct 2023 - Les Ayes | |||||||
Ayes des ours | |||||||
6b Easy | ★★ Astrazineken | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Cotation gentille, il me semble.
|
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Sat 23rd Sep 2023 - Rocher Maubert | |||||||
Sector 3 | |||||||
7b+ | Manfred Man (L2) — 3 attempts - with chloe Z | ||||||
Three tries. Should have been two but came up with weak ass beta putting up the draws. Very fun!
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7a+ | ★★ Manfred man - with chloe Z | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Very cold - did with puffer jacket and a pause at the ledge before the chains to warm fingers up in armpits. RP'd two more times after OS b/c of the extension
|
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Fri 15th Sep 2023 - Rocher Baron | |||||||
Quand on a que l'amour | |||||||
5c | ★ Graine de star - with Wiebke P | 20m | Average | ||||
Ok warm-up
|
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6a | ★★ Mission eureka - with Wiebke P | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice feature at the end.
|
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6b | ★★ J'en rêve encore - with Wiebke P | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Gym style 👌
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7a Hard | ★★★ Quand on n'ose que l'amour — 2 attempts - with Wiebke P | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Hard, endurance, steep, reachy, classic.
|
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Thu 14th Sep 2023 - La Roche de Rame | |||||||
Le Bathéoud | |||||||
5b ~5c+ | Unnamed | Average | |||||
Very dodgy for a 5b. If you can't easily climb 6a, don't lead this. The 5c on the other side is easier.
|
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Thu 14th Sep 2023 - Ailefroide | |||||||
La gorge | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Kachina - with Wiebke P | 25m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Coole crux + nice roof.
|
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6c+ | ★★★ Écrin dégun — 3 attempts - with Wiebke P | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Hard boulder and you need to save some energy to reach the next bolt 🙈
|
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Thu 14th Sep 2023 - Le Chambon | |||||||
6b Hard | ★ À l’abordage — 3 attempts | 15m | |||||
Crux at the 3th bolt that’s overhanging and crimpy
|
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Tue 12th Sep 2023 - Casse de Prelles | |||||||
Les aiguilles | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ L' asteroide - with Wiebke P | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Some hard moves, fun otherwise.
|
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6b+ | ★★ Dessine-moi - with Wiebke P | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very nice, but really hard start.
|
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6a Easy | ★ Exquis mots - with Wiebke P | ★ Good | |||||
Ok warm-up.
|
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6c ~6b+ | ★★ Le petit prince - with Wiebke P | ★★★ Classic | |||||
No hard moves, just wonderful.
|
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Tue 12th Sep 2023 - Le Rif d'Oriol | |||||||
Le Canyon Rive | |||||||
6c+ | ★★ Intervol blonde | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Excellent and sustained
|
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6b | ★★ Le prince du baquet | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great route - top rope to clean.
|
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6c+ ~7a | ★★ No. 11 | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
Seems damn hard for 6c+...
|
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Mon 11th Sep 2023 - Rue des Masques | |||||||
Canyon | |||||||
7a+ Hard | ★★ PGMLEH - with Wiebke P | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
Die erste Hälfte geht gut, dann knüppelhartes Finale. Keine Chance.
|
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Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Tournoux | |||||||
La ruee vers l'or | |||||||
6c+ | ★★ La ruee vers l'or | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Consistently excellent route
|
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6c ~6c+ | ★★ Let jour le plus long | 30m | ★ Good | ||||
Rock improves the higher you get
|
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Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Rue des Masques | |||||||
Canyon | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Les dingues et les paumés — 2 attempts - with Wiebke P | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
Awesome.
|
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Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Rue des Masques | |||||||
Les Blocs | |||||||
6b | ★★ La brise de la pastille - with Wiebke P | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Nice flow after some harder moves at the beginning.
|
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6a | ★★ Bla Bla Corde - with Wiebke P | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice warm-up
|
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6a | ★★ Bla Bla Corde - with Wiebke P | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice warm-up
|
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Sat 9th Sep 2023 - Panacelle | |||||||
Le Vampire | |||||||
6a | ★ Forza | ||||||
No bolts?
|
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6a | Unnamed | ||||||
No bolts for this route?
|
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Fri 8th Sep 2023 - Panacelle | |||||||
Initiation | |||||||
6a Easy | ★ Poux, papous et pas papous | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Has only a couple 6a moves
|
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Wed 6th Sep 2023 - Ailefroide | |||||||
Contreforts du Pelvoux Orage d'Etoiles | |||||||
5c+ | ★★★ Rivière Kwai - with Wiebke P | 450m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
2nd go 😅 diesmal auch die Abseilpiste gefunden.
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Tue 5th Sep 2023 - Ailefroide | |||||||
Contreforts du Pelvoux Minus Palavar | |||||||
6a | ★★ Serfouette express - with Wiebke P | 180m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
🤩
|
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Tue 5th Sep 2023 - Rocher de l’ombre | |||||||
Vacherin | |||||||
5c+ ~6a+ | Omelette norvegienne | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
If you go straight up at the 2nd bold this is definitely not a 5c. 2nd to 3rd bolt is more like 6b, afterwards 6a maybe.
|
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Mon 4th Sep 2023 - Le Rif d'Oriol | |||||||
Le Canyon Rive | |||||||
6b | ★★ Le prince du baquet | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Right start is 6b, the left variation is significantly harder.
|
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Sat 2nd Sep 2023 - Rocher Maubert | |||||||
Sector 3 | |||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Lotus flower - with Wiebke P | 30m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Harte crux, bis zum Ende klasse.
|
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6b Easy | ★★ Meili met l’eau - with Wiebke P | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Toll geht schön auf.
|
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6a+ | ★★ Regarde - with Wiebke P | 23m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Knaller.
|
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6a | ★★ Panorama - with Wiebke P | 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice
|
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Sat 2nd Sep 2023 - Le Simoust | |||||||
Le fer à repasser | |||||||
5b+ Hard | ★★ JMC | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5c in the guidebooks
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Fri 1st Sep 2023 - La Saume | |||||||
Secteur 2 Main Cliff | |||||||
8b+ ~8c | ★★★ Dragee fuca | ||||||
With extension 8c.
|
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Fri 1st Sep 2023 - Mont-Dauphin | |||||||
Flavie | |||||||
7b Easy | ★★★ Solo girl | 23m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Alz-os, rather soft
|
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Fri 1st Sep 2023 - Mont-Dauphin | |||||||
Total Kheops | |||||||
6a ~5c | ★★ En terre inconnue | ★★ Very Good | |||||
For sure not 6c like in the guidebook.
|
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Wed 30th Aug 2023 - Ailefroide | |||||||
La Draye Amigos | |||||||
7c | ★★★ Aïoli tartiflette | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Nice slab.
|
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Tue 29th Aug 2023 - Ailefroide | |||||||
La gorge | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Coconut Shake | 30m, 11 | Average | ||||
Crux would be much easier if you traversed right half a metre into the neighbouring line... or used the loose flake out left (I presume both options are out?). I thought other routes here were far better!
|
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7a+ | ★★ Le scrupule de Marion | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Best route (under 7b) on the cliff I thought! Sustained and quality all the way...
|
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Tue 29th Aug 2023 - Rocher Baron | |||||||
Quand on a que l'amour | |||||||
7c | ★★ Mon amour toi et moi — 2 attempts | 20m | |||||
Rather soft
|
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Sat 26th Aug 2023 - Puy Chalvin | |||||||
Sector 1 | |||||||
7b | ★ Special one — 2 attempts | 14m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Really polished
|
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Thu 24th Aug 2023 - Rocher de l’ombre | |||||||
Dernière balyses | |||||||
7a | ★ Chicken foot - with Lennart Jauch | 22m, 13 | Average | ||||
Oben links halten. Direkt vermutlich deutlich schwerer.
|
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7b+ | ★★ Highway start - with Lennart Jauch | 25m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Flash Versuch am Rettungshenkel versemmelt
|
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7b | ★★ Skow - with Lennart Jauch | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
Nette Boulderstelle zum Schluss
|
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7a | ★★★ Extazic mysterious - with Luna | 25m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Crux sind die speckigen Tritte am Einstieg.
|
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Wed 23rd Aug 2023 - Ailefroide | |||||||
La gorge | |||||||
6b | ★★ Les philistins | 28m, 14 | |||||
6b to the fist anchor really nice climbing
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Tue 22nd Aug 2023 - Ailefroide | |||||||
La Draye Amigos | |||||||
5c Easy |
Gear on
★★★ Une chance au grattage
- with
wombat@
1
5c
2
5c
3
5b
4
5c
5
6
7
| ★★★ Classic | |||||
Sehr schöne Tour mit Aussicht auf den Campingplatz und andere Sektoren. 😎🫠😉
|
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Mon 21st Aug 2023 - Tournoux | |||||||
La ruee vers l'or | |||||||
6c ~6c+ | ★★ Let jour le plus long | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
It’s 6c+ in the guidebook
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Mon 21st Aug 2023 - Rocher Gafouille | |||||||
7b+ | ★★ Quiche le quignon — 2 attempts - with Rosi | 23m, 11 | ★ Good | ||||
Harter Boulder in der Mitte ohne geklebten Griff geklettert.
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Sun 20th Aug 2023 - Ailefroide | |||||||
La Draye Cascade du Riou sèche | |||||||
6a | ★★★ Cascades blues - with M. D. | 250m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Nice route with a river crossing.
We had a very nice day. Route is prone to alpine traffic jams b/c traverses are stressful for inexperienced climbers and the last pitch is one of the hardest. Descent: Rappelling the first pitch: If you have 2x50m ropes don’t take the first abseil station after 35m or do, but take the second after 45m. Then you just need to rappel 2x, otherwise you need 3x. |
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Sun 20th Aug 2023 - Ailefroide | |||||||
Fissure d'Ailefroide Fissure partie gauche | |||||||
6b |
★★★ La Snoopy Directe
- with
m.
1
5c
lead by
m.
3
5c
lead by
m.
4
6b
lead by
Jonas O.-D.
„Hard“ boulder right after the belay. The dihedral is also not as easy as it looks.
5
6a
lead by
m.
7
5c
lead by
m.
9
6a
lead by
m.
| 280m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Very nice route. Quite homogenus. A lot of bolts.
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Sun 20th Aug 2023 - Ailefroide | |||||||
Les Blocs Philémon Bloc F | |||||||
7A | ★ Probar (sit start) | ||||||
Sortie par la droite.
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Sun 20th Aug 2023 - Ailefroide | |||||||
Les Blocs Pavé | |||||||
7B | ★ Vitamines (sit start) | ||||||
Sympa pour compléter le départ debout (pas sur de moi pour la sortie en utilisant le bac à gauche).
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7A+ | ★ Vitamines | ||||||
Pas sur de la sortie (en utilisant le bac sur l'arête à gauche). Jolis mouvs!
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Sat 19th Aug 2023 - Ailefroide | |||||||
La gorge | |||||||
6a | ★★ Jardinage a tous les etages - with Christo Lotter | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
Hard move at the end
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Sat 19th Aug 2023 - Ailefroide | |||||||
La Draye Secteur école (droite) | |||||||
5b | ★★ La dulfer - with Christo Lotter | ★ Good | |||||
A bit of lay back, a bit of smearing, enjoyable route, easy end
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Sat 19th Aug 2023 - Ailefroide | |||||||
Les Blocs Philémon Bloc Pic-Nic | |||||||
7A ~6C+ | ★★ Maroual Chamak | ||||||
La ligne classique du coin.
|
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Sat 19th Aug 2023 - Rue des Masques | |||||||
Canyon | |||||||
5c+ | ★ La fille sûre | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Bel diedro
|
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Sat 19th Aug 2023 - Rue des Masques | |||||||
Petite lune | |||||||
7b | ★★ Gugus, tube de l'année | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Passo chiave a metà poi più semplici
|
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7a+ | ★★ Les prophéties de tronc | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tacchette alternati a buchi buoni
|
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Sat 19th Aug 2023 - Puy Chalvin | |||||||
Sector 1 | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Les Baboums - with Rosi | 30m, 14 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Getting pumpy to the top. Without glued on holds near the top.
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Sat 19th Aug 2023 - Rue des Masques | |||||||
Petite lune | |||||||
6b | ★★ Tout va bien | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Bel diedro a buchi
|
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Sat 19th Aug 2023 - Puy Chalvin | |||||||
Sector 1 | |||||||
7b | ★ Special one — 2 attempts - with Rosi | 14m, 7 | |||||
Im Onsight an der zweiten Exe fünfmal die Füße gerutscht und dann kelnen Biss mehr für den Zug zum Henkel gehabt. Im Durchstieg nur noch die raue Leiste benutzt.
|
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7b+ | ★★ La boulette — 2 attempts - with Rosi | 8m, 6 | |||||
Netter Leistenboulder
|
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7a | L’ame courte - with Rosi | 17m, 8 | |||||
Die obere Hälfte ist deutlich leichter
|
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Fri 18th Aug 2023 - Ailefroide | |||||||
Contreforts du Pelvoux Plan des Durs | |||||||
5c | ★★ Rossinante | 290m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
LRS Double Revo
|
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Fri 18th Aug 2023 - Ailefroide | |||||||
Contreforts du Pelvoux Palavar | |||||||
5b |
★★★ Palavar-les-Flots
1
4c
2
4c
3
4c
4
5b
5
4b
6
4b
7
4c
8
5b
9
4c
10
4a
11
4a
12
4a
| 400m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Linked pitches 2+3, 5+6 and 11+12 using 70 m twin ropes. Doing that with 60 m ropes seemed only possible for 2+3.
|
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Thu 17th Aug 2023 - Ailefroide | |||||||
La Draye Two hot men | |||||||
5c |
★★ Remonte-pente direct
1
3a
2
5c
3
4b
4
5b
5
3a
6
5c
7
5c
8
4c
| 180m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Climbed the 5a right variant for pitch 1 and the 5c left variant instead of pitches 2 and 3. We had an additional beaky stance right under the 5c chimney to have minimize rope drag and then maximized rope drag by combining the chimney with the next pitch. The big flake variant, chimney and the second last vertical pitch make this a classic. The last pitch is very short. We should have combined it.
Would give it the grades 5a, 5c, 4a (until belay 3 m under the chimney), 5b (chimney), 3a, 5c, 4c.
|
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Thu 17th Aug 2023 - Ailefroide | |||||||
La gorge | |||||||
6c+ | ★★★ Écrin dégun — 2 attempts | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Very good endurance run if you don't take the rests.
|
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Wed 16th Aug 2023 - Mont-Dauphin | |||||||
El Pouding | |||||||
6b | Yellow | 15m | |||||
speckig
|
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Wed 16th Aug 2023 - Rocher Qui Répond | |||||||
Shana | |||||||
7a | ★★ Good Luc - with Rosi | 17m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Some holds marked with green paint. WTF!
|
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Tue 15th Aug 2023 - Ailefroide | |||||||
La Draye Amigos | |||||||
5b | ★ La directe des fourmis - with Christo Lotter | Average | |||||
smeeeeaaring !
short
|
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Tue 15th Aug 2023 - Ailefroide | |||||||
Contreforts du Pelvoux Poire d'Ailefroide | |||||||
5b Hard | ★★ Écrins total - with Mantelseil Malte | 250m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Lead all the pitches.
|
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Mon 14th Aug 2023 - Ailefroide | |||||||
La gorge | |||||||
6c+ | ★★ Socoa — 2 attempts | 25m, 10 | |||||
Unfortunately Injured my pinky but made all the moves. Cruxy boulder problem at the bulge
|
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6c Easy | ★★ L'ange 20 | 25m | |||||
Soft 6c maybe 6B+
|
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Sun 13th Aug 2023 - Ailefroide | |||||||
Contreforts du Pelvoux Envers de l'éboulement | |||||||
6a | Divine Pancréatite | 300m | |||||
LRS+ Double Revo
had an early start at 7am, sun was strong, 3,5l water was not enough |
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Sun 13th Aug 2023 - Casse de Prelles | |||||||
Odyssée | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Odyssée — 2 attempts - with Rosi | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sehr unübersichtlich, wenn man aber mal weiß, wo die Griffe sind super schöne Kletterei.
|
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Sat 12th Aug 2023 - Rue des Masques | |||||||
Canyon | |||||||
6b+ | ★ Joshua Trip — 2 attempts | ★ Good | |||||
Nice crux, long sustained route
|
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Sat 12th Aug 2023 - Ailefroide | |||||||
La Draye Les petites dalles | |||||||
4a | Tout alu - with Mantelseil Malte | 25m | |||||
#one-handed
4a if you stay out of the grass line.
|
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5c+ ~5c+ | ★ Mouton noir - with Mantelseil Malte | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Very nice upper section. 5c+ according to Briançon Climbs.
|
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Sat 12th Aug 2023 - Ailefroide | |||||||
La Draye Chlorophylle | |||||||
5b ~5b+ | ★★ Kétala — 4 attempts - with Mantelseil Malte | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Crimpy start that’s quite harder than 5b. Easy after first 2 m.
|
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Fri 11th Aug 2023 - Ailefroide | |||||||
La Draye Secteur Raclure | |||||||
5b |
Raclure
- with
Mantelseil Malte
1
5b
2
4a
3
4c
4
5a
5
5a
6
4c
7
5b
| 180m | Average | ||||
We combined pitches 2+3 and 4+5 with 70 m twin ropes. Belay stance of pitch 3 is hidden behind a tree. Pitch 1 felt not harder than the 5as for sure. Pitch 7 is the best, would give 2 Stars. Rest of the route isn’t really worth a star.
|
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Thu 10th Aug 2023 - Le Grand Bois | |||||||
Les Boeufs Rouges | |||||||
7a+ ~7b | ★ Vache folle | Don't Bother | |||||
Very hard and possibly technical crux at the start, then easier climbing to the point where it meets with the 7b coming from the left. Thereafter technical crimpy climbing to the top.
|
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7b | ★★ Vache couchée | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Hard starting crux, then nice easier climbing to the top.
|
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7b+ | ★ Vache enragée | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Quite hard starting crux from the first ledge, then very nice climbing to the top with some a bit harder sections in between.
|
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Thu 10th Aug 2023 - Le Rif d'Oriol | |||||||
Le Canyon Rive | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Ici l'ombre | 30m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Beautiful route. Good rests. Well protected.
|
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Thu 10th Aug 2023 - Pelvoux | |||||||
Gorges d'Ailefroide | |||||||
D | ★★ Third part - with Mantelseil Malte | ★★ Very Good | |||||
1:30 h for all the parts.
|
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Wed 9th Aug 2023 - Ailefroide | |||||||
La Draye Contreforts de la Draye | |||||||
5b | ★★ Spit on cup - with Mantelseil Malte | 200m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Climbed in street shoes, which made pitch 5 challenging.
70 m half ropes made a single abseil possible. Combined the first 2 and the last 3 pitches.
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