Ajuda

Orage d'Etoiles

  • Contexto da graduação: FR
  • Ascensões: 46
5

Sazonalidade

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Descrição

Some lovely long routes just above Ailefroide.

Questões de acesso herdado de France

Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/

Acesso

In Ailefroide, just past the guide shop and before you cross the bridge over the Torrent (eastward), there will be a small left turn. Take this, drive about 100m, then park in a grassy area on the left. There is an obvious climber's trail heading up from there -- hike up it. The slab of the Les Etoiles sector will be obvious -- either branch left (Riviere Kwai area) a bit below the slab, or skirt around the right side of the slab then scramble up and left to the base of the other climbs (may need to cross compact snow in the spring/early summer).

Descent notes

Rappel.

Ética herdado de France

Park where indicated, take care of the environment, buy the local guidebook when possible (this is one of the ways you can help local route setters), clean up your shoes before climbing, don't spray beta, be polite.

Etiquetas

Vias

Adicionar via(s) Adicionar croqui Reordenar Edição em massa Converter grau
Grade Via
1 6a
2 5c
3 5b
4 5c+
5 5b
6 5c
7 5b
8 4c
9 5c
10 4c

FA: F. Augé, G. Fiaschi, J. C. Paillasson & P. H. Paillasson

1 6a+
2 6a+
3 5b
4 6a
5 6a+
6 5c
7 6b
8 5b
9 5a
10 5b
11 6b

5c oblig.

FA: Jean-Michel Cambon & J. Bidault

The first two climbs listed above start up a rib/slab above and left from the single-pitch slab climbing of Les Etoiles.

The climbs below start on a different rib that is right of Les Etoiles.

1 5b
2 5c
3 5c
4 5b
5 5c+
6 5a
7 3a
8 5c+
9 5c
10 5c+
11 4c
12 5c
13 5c+
14 4c

Niveau 5c | 5c+ max > 5c obligé

Long route, mostly slab for the first half, then after the traverse about pitch 7, becomes more face climbing on good holds. About pitch 11 there is an interesting "pont" across a gully.

FA: Jean-Michel Cambon, 2004

1 5b
2 5c
3 5b
4 5b
5 6b
6 6a
7 5a

FA: G. Fiaschi & Jean-Michel Cambon

1 4c
2 5a
3 5b+
4 5c+
5 5c
6 6a A0
7 6a
8 5c
9 5c

Niveau 5c | 6a max > 5c obligé

Closely bolted, with shiny shiny bolts. Last pitch is shared with "Pilier du levant". Crux pitch is closely bolted and given as 6c/A0 with two to three bolts used for aid. Some parts of the rock have been cemented.

FA: Francis Chaud, 1986

Maint: Jacky Bidault & Jean Michel Cambon, 2014

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Selected Guidebooks more Ocultar

Author(s): Yann, Martine & J. J. Rolland

Data: 2022

ISBN: 9782958158408

A comprehensive guidebook describing the rock climbing in the Durance Valley around the towns of Briancon, Ailefroide, La Vallouise, L'Argentiere-la-bessee and Guillestre, covering everything from single pitch sport routes to long classic alpine ascents up to 600m long.

Author(s): Jean Michel Cambon

Data: 2017

Acomodações próximas more Ocultar

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