Ascensões em Rudolfstein-Gruppe

We finished by climbing the end of the Nordostverschneidung to the top of the 4. GT

One of only two routes in the Bühler guidebook marked as "sehr lohnend". No objections. Spectacular journey for the grade. The first pitch is already quite interesting with a technical passages over the bulges. Fun traverse at the start of the second pitch (a bit strenuous, try to keep your body close to the wall), followed by a glorious, juggy vertical section to a little alcove and an exposed finish to the right of it.

die Crux würde ich mit 7 bewerten. Könnte aber auch in der falschen Tour gewesen sein.

2nd go

2nd go

Sehr geiles Finale

One of the most striking lines here, a leaning crack through the whole face. Wide hand crack to the first bolt, then a tricky section up to the point where you can dive into the crack. From there it gets easier, but always interesting 3d climbing. One or two cams in between the bolts are sensible, especially because you need to extend some bolts (they are quite far back). The last few meters are again quite challenging. Fun route!

Got shut down pretty badly here. Managed to reach the second bolt, gorgeous athletic climbing up to that point. Then it becomes unclear where to go. I tried to go directly up and right to the bolt in the lip of the roof, but failed miserably. The line in the topo suggests traversing to the right at that point already (marginal jams, probably super hard without crack gloves or tape), so that's what I ended up doing, but the rope is zigzagging its way at that point already, so I had to backtrack and extend the bolt on the left. Reaching the bolt in the lip from there can be done, but it's tough, too. Another bulge awaits, with strenuous layback moves leading into yet another desperate jam and a weird frog-mode traverse to the right. There you can slowly get up, lean your back against the protruding block and slowly push yourself up. The final slab is dirty and overgrown with lichen. In total, it's a really good route, very unusual and pumpy.