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A pretty typical but pleasant Frankenjura climbing experience. Good-enough protection in the harder sections / next to nothing for protection in the really easy ones. But all-in-all, a good multi-pitch route will cool sections and features, which won't eat up a whole day to climb. Was up and down in less than 2.5 hours, and really took our time.
Approach involves a bit of wading through weeds and Brennestle, so definitely recommend long pants. Also, two-way radios or other communication device would be useful - lots of road noise coming from cars passing on the valley below and some pitches will be difficult for partners to hear one another.
Generally, I'm displeased with the Frankenjura "standard" single-bolt anchors, but that's what you'll be working with here mostly Pitches 2 and 4 are by far the most enjoyable climbing, and are well protected between bolts and pitons
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Very nice alpine adventure. The rock is very solid. The chimney/crack at the second pitch is definitely my favorite part. At the second crack pitch (our 4th pitch overall) I was already very exhausted, so I used the bolts to aid the thing. The last pitch is nice and again not easy, but the sight of the summit gave me enough strength to do it.
Pretty awesome and a prime example for the "practice for the alps" attitude of the early 20th century. Each pitch is in principle reachable without climbing, but the route is certainly more than the sum of its pitches. We climbed the grassy ledge to the cave. In hindsight, crawling in via the sloped ledge from the right is the better option; easier and less vegetation. The second pitch is greatcrack climbing in good rock. The final section is best climbed as a narrow chimney, but I made the mistake to climb it on the outside, which felt a bit scary. Then a traverse to the good belay on the left. Bovist led the section from that belay to a bolt above the edge, then I continued with the rest of pitch three, which is basically just walking up grassy ledges. Pitch four starts with an awesome little crackdihedral, quite tricky. I decided to set up another belay directly above to make communication easier. The last section is a little corner, but rather climbed frontally on the left. You can walk off, the fence has been removed.
Approach involves a bit of wading through weeds and Brennestle, so definitely recommend long pants. Also, two-way radios or other communication device would be useful - lots of road noise coming from cars passing on the valley below and some pitches will be difficult for partners to hear one another.
Generally, I'm displeased with the Frankenjura "standard" single-bolt anchors, but that's what you'll be working with here mostly Pitches 2 and 4 are by far the most enjoyable climbing, and are well protected between bolts and pitons .