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Ascensões em Oberer Sonnwendstein

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Mostrando os 4 ascensões.

Grade Via Estilo de equipamento Qualidade Climber
Sat 21st May 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Nankendorf Oberer Sonnwendstein
7- Adolf Göttner Gedenkweg - with Harald Mixed trad 40m, 5 Good
Christoph Rauch
Long, astonishingly horizontal traverse, especially given that it's going on for about 40 meters. You gain about 5 meters of height at the start, then traverse below a roof with bad feet and not a lot to hold on to. The protection at this point is also mediocre, two spaced out Bühler bolts with a rusty peg in the middle that has not been driven into the rock completely, so it's best to sling it. This is the crux, but the fun isn't over. A little green after the second Bühler bolt, but manageable and relatively easy to the belay. Second pitch gets you around a round pillar via a slanted ledge (do not climb up the crack as indicated in some guide books; climb down half meter instead, then continue traversing); crouching is the best option. Careful, the holds at the start of the ledge are brittle. Luckily, there's a good bolt there. It's best to set up belay once again at the book case. After two more meters of traverse, you can then heave yourself up onto another little ledge with a roof over it and crawl along it around the corner; the ledge gets steeper, though, so the finish is again a bit bold. Funny exit through a narrow tunnel to the vista.

 
6+ Linker Westriss - with Harald Mixed trad 15m, 4 Good
Christoph Rauch
Good crack climbing, the rock quality isn't the best, but the jams are relatively solid. Crux is to get above the first bolt. Interesting finish!

 
7- Rechter Westriss - with Harald Mixed trad 15m, 4 Good
Christoph Rauch
Much harder than the left one. Exhausting fist/offwidth passage at the start, sling necessary between the first two bolts (chock), another nut sensible after the second. Merges with "Linker Westriss" just below the book case.

 
Sun 7th Oct 2018 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Nankendorf Oberer Sonnwendstein
8- Selfie Stick Sport 15m Very Good
Martin Skalli
2nd go. Sehr coole Plattenkletterei für den, der´s mag. Eierig zum zweiten Haken, dann Crux, der obere Teil ist leichter als es von unten aussieht...

 

Mostrando os 4 ascensões.

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