Ascensões em Abgetrennte Wand

The first difficult place is to move from the SU to the first fingerlock. You can help yourself by using hold on the right but it won't get you much higher. At 2.R, it already bites the fingers the legs are not good. I had to rest there. But the crack size is perfect. All in all a great route, one of the very few little fingers in Saxony. IXa IMO but the difficulty very much depends on experience. #meisterweg

#repeat

Already had tried this two years ago and was stoked by the line. Actually it wasn't my plan to try again this weekend, because I already had problems with the friction last time, but I couldn't resist. Easy to the first ring, with a good sling before. Then solid rock tunnel a bit above, still quite easy to reach. From here it's full throttle to the second ring. Fell into the rock tunnel twice before finding a beta that worked. There are two mediocre holds in the crack at that point. The lower one has to be grabbed with the left hand, the upper with the right, then full layback with high feet and with lots of body tension and fully extended body reach up into a mediocre fingerlock. After repositioning the feet, you can double up the fingerlock and work yourself up to better holds in the crack and clip the second ring. I rested there for a while, then tried the upper passage a few times before finding the two important fingerlocks that lead up to another layback move. Somehow got into a stable position and tried to get a sling in. Somehow succeeded, but knew it wasn't too good. Gathered some confidence, though, and made two more moves to what looked like a bomber handjam. Didn't get my hand in deep enough, though, so I got stuck in a dead end and had to jump. Sling ripped, and I plummeted to slightly above the first ring. Knowing that it wasn't too bad, I rested up, prepared a slightly thicker sling and tried again. Got to the sling placement, tried to hammer it in, but slipped out of the crack and fell again. At this point, I wouldn't have tried again if it wasn't for the lost sling on the one hand and Jenni's encouragement on the other hand, and the knowledge that I had one last attempt before the sun came around. Tried to rest as best as I could, then gave it a last go. Reached the sling, flicked it out, threw it down, climbed on, threw in the handjam. Couldn't believe it at first, but the hardest part was over. Placed two slings, then slowly climbed on with all my limbs already quite drained. Two more slings on the left, then up to the ledge, and easier (like NW-Weg) to the top. Quite proud, and once again proof to me that grade conversions are bullshit. #meisterweg

Nice and easy along the rib at the arête, then slightly left over the rooflet and up into easy terrain.

Couldn't just pass by this beauty and had to try it despite the bad conditions. Slipped out of the holds in the crack between the first and second ring (no good jams possible) and fell off into a good sling. Tried a few times but had to give up due to the heat. Something to come back for!

#jan-belay