Ascensões em Fuchsfels

harter Start

Heute nicht zum Aufwärmen geeignet..

Im zweiten Go lief's richtig gut! Klasse Tour, schöne Bewegungen, etwas kurz.

Einzelstelle mit etwas weiterem Haken

Diesmal läuft alles wie am Schnürchen, entspannt, purer Genuß

Zum ersten Mal die Querung (sehr entspannt!!) durchgestiegen. In der Verschneidung eine Schuppe rechts außen gegriffen und während ich mich nach links lehne um den Griff für die Klipposition des nächsten Hakens zu erreichen spüre ich wie der Griff in meiner rechten Hand regelrecht zerbröselt zwischen meinen Finger. Kurze Zeit später befinde ich mich 5m tiefer am Seilende baumelnd..

Noch keine Idee wie ich an der Schlüsselstelle weiterkomme, bzw. klippen soll ??

Really great route. At first I wasn't sure if I should even try to climb it after Alex failed on the traverse. In retrospect, I'm glad I fought my way up.

It starts with easy metres to the first, very high bolt. From there I kept to the right and climbed up a great crack. Really good. Then to the left, following the next crack up to the traverse at the 6th bolt. Now it gets tricky. After the traverse the route then continues upwards in a super dihedral and then after 2 bolts to the right again to avoid the overhang of the route Terminisse. At the end, close to the bolts, steeply up to the belay.

Attention, optimise the rope course with long quick draws.

What a shame. Failed again at the crux between the 2nd and 3rd piton. And why? Three guesses. Of course, the feet weren't in place again. I didn't do any better the rest of the way. It wasn't my day.

Keine Lösung für den Quergang..

Zugeschaut, wie Kai den Quergang gelöst hat Allerdings verwende ich andere Löcher bzw. in anderer Reihenfolge..

Well, the crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. Very technical moves at bad side pulls. The essential holds are at a tiny and hidden flake. Put the left hand at very top of the flake to have the space to match it with the right hand. Then sort your feet to reach the good undercling/side-pull with the left hand. That's it. Continue the flake and stand up on the pillar...

With regards to the guidebook this route is supposed to be a classic, but I would say it is just a very good historical route because for the interesting part from a sport climbing point of view, it would need a new lower off anchor so that you do not have to climb to the historic stance. This is only worthwhile for adventurers.

First ascended in 1955 the line chooses the easiest access to the crack-dihedral 5m above ground. Then follows the crack until it gets overhanging and heads to left onto a ledge. Around the corner further left is the stance to start into the easy second and last pitch. Reaching the stance was quite tricky as the hazelnut bush has spread again. Subsequent rope teams should think about bringing a saw and hedge trimmer. There is also plenty of work for a gardener on the second pitch. The second pitch is protected by one bolt only (5m above the belay) and it follows an easy dihedral to the top of the rock.

The view from the top is quite rewarding. Don't forget the Gipfelbier

#alzheimer-flash

Yet no opinion on the route. Felt hard, but could have been the case because the crack was wet. Awkward position of the second bolt. Def not easy to onsight for me. #lastrouteoftheday Will try it again but after a longer period without rainfall. The crack may get dirtier with each heavy rainfall. Anyway thanks to Jakob Pelz for establishing this route.

Starts slightly right of 'Tuttlinger Weg'. Use the jug to reach the crack then follow it. Finishes with technical slab climbing.

First time I got on this classic. First I thought, oh well protected - looks like a plaisir climb - but then I failed at the crux between second and third bolt. Found the important crimpy side pull after some attempts. Quite tricky and hard for me. Because Sonnendeck didn't want to second the route to cleanup I used the last bolt of the route to lower down. The belay is at least 5m left of the start, so cleaning the route descending through that anchor will be hard work.

Does anyone climb the second pitch of this route? I suppose not. Georg Hermann should we place an additional lower off anchor to ease climbing of the first pitch?