Yamanashi Guide

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Yamanashi

1 4 5 3 2 6

1 Mizugaki Yama 2 Mitsutouge 3 South Alps 4 Kofu Makuiwa 5 Tachioka yama 6 ピラニア 富士吉田店

Summary:

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Sazonalidade

208 routes in Region

Escalada trad, Escalada esportiva e outros estilos

Lat / Long: 35.613323, 138.612654

questões de acesso

Some spots have access issues as many spots near crowded places elsewhere. So please ensure you follow the recommendations of local climbers and behave responsibly.

herdado de Japan

ética

There`s not a lot of information about climbing in Japan in English. Much of the information is only available in Japanese - or of course here on theCrag!

The Japan Free Climbing Association (http://freeclimb.jp/seibi/seibi.htm) is a good point of contact and there is a set of 5 guidebooks (all in Japanese) and an alpine guide book in English available covering all of Japan and its thousands of sport and trad routes and boulders.

http://www.yamakei.co.jp/products/2811180810.html

https://www.amazon.com/Classic-Alpine-Climbs-Japan-Climb-ebook/dp/B01ARU5KR0

herdado de Japan

1.1. Mizugaki Yama

6 5 8 1 12

1 Toichimen Iwa syoumenheki /十一面岩正面壁 5 Fudō Sawa 6 Kasameri Sawa 8 Mizugaki Bouldering Area 12 Oozura iwa /大面岩

Summary:

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174 routes in Crag

Granito

Escalada trad, Escalada esportiva e outros estilos

Lat / Long: 35.898422, 138.584217

sumário

Granite formations scattered through a national park, known for excellent trad climbing and bouldering but also has a sport climbing sector.

descrição

Almost every type of climbing is represented at Mizugaki, at least in some small area, except for much beginner climbing. Quality climbing starts around 5.9 for multipitch trad routes and 10a for sport routes, and continues to extremely hard, extremely bold, world class trad pitches.

There is an English guidebook available that presents a subset of the best areas (still far more climbs than are here on thecrag, and detailed approach instructions with pictures, topos etc). It can be bought from the Pump online shop: https://pump.ocnk.net/product/10122 (may not ship outside Japan) or at Pump gyms in Tokyo.

acesso

Park at the main Mizugaki trailhead/campsite/kiosk for most areas, find as "Mount Mizugaki" on Google Maps.

onde ficar

The campground at the base is the most popular place to stay. There are also some mountain huts & guesthouses within a 10-15 minute drive, though these may be difficult to book without speaking Japanese. There are larger towns with a wide range of accommodation 30-40 minutes away.

1.1.1. Toichimen Iwa syoumenheki /十一面岩正面壁

Summary:

29 routes in Crag

Chaminé Fenda Diedro Offwidth Consolidado Ventoso Saída por rapel 1-2 horas 45-60 min Negativo Aderência Vertical

Mostly Escalada trad

Lat / Long: 35.895929, 138.587049

sumário

Known for single and multipitch crack climbing. Probably the most popular of the trad areas at Mizugaki.

descrição

Some cracks seep for a long time after rain, others are quicker, and Astrodome is often dry even during rain.

acesso

Take the trail leaving the right side of the upper meadow and head straight uphill. When the formed hiking trail ends, continue on the climber's trail uphill. Turn right at a cairn (there are several that work), cross the creek to the right then follow climber's paths uphill again. At a huge boulder with a tree somehow living in air above it, the path heads right and crosses a rocky gully, before heading left and up again. Passing an overhung boulder, you should reach Toichimen End Wall on the left. (~1 hour).

To reach the further walls, head up the rocky gully, following some cairns, to re-enter the forest on the left at a large cairn. From here tape, cairns and fixed ropes lead to various walls.

1.1.2. Ebisu Iwa

Summary:

2 routes in Crag

All Escalada trad

1.1.3. Shokuju-Sai Area

Summary:

2 routes in Crag

All Escalada trad

descrição

植樹祭エリア

1.1.4. Fudousawa Saikaryuu

Summary:

3 routes in Area

All Escalada trad

descrição

This is a minor area and rarely visited. It has many quality crack routes and deserves to be more popular.

1.1.5. Fudō Sawa

Summary:

46 routes in Crag

10-20 min

Mostly Escalada trad

Lat / Long: 35.904403, 138.585429

acesso

Park at the Fudosawa carpark - continue north from the main carpark to a marked right turn, then take a somewhat bumpy dirt road to the end. Or, 25 minutes on a flat hiking trail from the main carpark.

1.1.6. Kasameri Sawa

Summary:

52 routes in Crag

Dries quickly Seco quando chove Molha quando chove 10-20 min 5-10 min Negativo Aderência Vertical

Mostly Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 35.907058, 138.582927

descrição

Mostly single pitch sport climbs with some trad lines.

acesso

Park at the Fudosawa carpark - continue north from the main carpark to a marked right turn, then take a somewhat bumpy dirt road to the end. Or, 25 minutes on a flat hiking trail from the main carpark.

1.1.7. Kanmanboron

Summary:

10 routes in Crag

Escalada esportiva e Escalada trad

acesso

40min walk from the carpark

1.1.8. Mizugaki Bouldering Area

Summary:

16 routes in Crag

All Boulder

Lat / Long: 35.897492, 138.579873

acesso

Most developed boulders are within 30 minutes walk of the main carpark.

1.1.9. Shichimen Iwa

Summary:

6 routes in Crag

Mostly Escalada trad

descrição

七面岩

1.1.10. Jigoku Area

Summary:

5 routes in Area

Escalada trad e Boulder

acesso

head up the same approach as Toichimen- Mattannheki. After passing the second large boulder (first is Kumiko) veer straight up the Gully rather then following the path to the right. Continue to head straight up the gully till you reach the stunning wall of Jigoku Area.

história

エリアの情報はロクスノ #55 にチラッと出ています

1.1.11. Benten rock

Summary:

1 route in Cliff

All Escalada trad

1.1.12. Oozura iwa /大面岩

Summary:

2 routes in Area

Fenda Face Offwidth Aderência Aderência Tufa Vertical

All Escalada trad

Lat / Long: 35.893450, 138.584876

acesso

1.5 hour

1.2. Mitsutouge

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23 routes in Crag

Conglomerado

Escalada trad e Escalada artificial

Lat / Long: 35.550629, 138.810602

1.2.1. Left (Hidari) Face

Summary:

2 routes in Area

All Escalada artificial

1.2.2. Central (Chūō) Face

Summary:

21 routes in Cliff

Escalada trad e Escalada artificial

1.2.3. Right (Migi) Face

1.2.4. East face

1.3. South Alps

1 2

1 Kaikoma 2 Kita dake

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8 routes in Area

Escalada alpina, Escalada em gelo e Escalada trad

Lat / Long: 35.557677, 138.276669

1.3.1. Kaikoma

Summary:

5 routes in Area

Escalada em gelo, Escalada trad e Escalada alpina

Lat / Long: 35.776857, 138.241005

1.3.2. Kita dake

Summary:

3 routes in Area

All Escalada alpina

Lat / Long: 35.676061, 138.243287

1.4. Kofu Makuiwa

1.4.1. Sansho Kingdom 山椒王国

1.4.2. Forest Walkway 森の散歩道

1.4.3. Maerchenland メルヘンランド

1.4.4. Hojo no Mori 豊穣の森

1.5. Tachioka yama

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2 routes in Crag

Escalada trad e Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 35.772161, 138.536928

questões de acesso

It's a ~6000yen taxi ride from Kofu station or 40min drive.

acesso

The scissors rock (hasami iwa) and the ridge on the left rock ridge can be seen from the car park. Walk 1 min up the road until you see a gap in the guardrail. Follow the short path and cross the ladder bridge over the stream. There will be an abandoned house on the left but keep following the forest path and cairns for about 15 minutes.

1.6. ピラニア 富士吉田店

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1 route in Gym

All Boulder

Lat / Long: 35.476540, 138.788909