★★★ Magician VS A1

Start below the prominent grey-rooted tree and slightly right.

1. 22 m Up easily for 9 m (peg runner), then left and up to overhang. Climb overhang by way of a steep square-cut groove (1 aid nut and 1 aid thread). Up groove a few feet to a belay below and to the left of tree.

2. 27 m Up right through tree to slab. Up slab moving right into groove and up to good ledges on right. Step back left and up twin cracks to a belay on sloping ledge on right. Nut belay.

3. 30 m Step down left then traverse round corner into niche. Traverse left round next corner then up broken rock to overhangs, (peg runner). Move left a few feet to foot of large pale corner. Up this 20' to reach first peg. Up to good ledge on left (2 aid moves). Follow this to arete and belay round corner.

4. 43 m Up 6 m then left across steep wall to ledges. Round corner then up to obvious corner. Follow this to top. Seriousness: 3

No bolting unless you're doing a new route (then please check with the MCK that it is a new route beforehand).