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Central Pillar

  • Contexto da graduação: US
  • Fotos: 4
  • Ascensões: 17
  • Aka: The Shining Path
  • Aka: El Sendero Luminoso

Sazonalidade

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Descrição

The most obvious pillar in the middle of the north facing side of EPC.

Questões de acesso herdado de El Potrero Chico

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in.

Acesso

Across La Quinta Santa Barbara cross the river bed and take the trail starting just left of the camping. It is well marked with signs. Follow Plutonia if in doubt and then Land of the Free.

Ética herdado de Nuevo León

Please don´t litter, some crags like LaHuasteca are a little runout, but thats how they were set, please avoid adding bolts. Rebolting efforts are much apreciated, just send a heads up to the local climbing comunity for safety reasons.

Etiquetas

Vias

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Grade Via

Climbs thin face to large ledge half way up. Tends to have run-outs. 2 x 60m ropes recommended.

1 5.12b
2 5.12d
3 5.12b
4 5.12a
5 5.12b
6 5.12b
7 5.12b
8 5.12b
9 5.12
10 5.11a
11 5.10c
12 5.12b
13 5.12d
14 5.11a
15 5.10b
16 5.7

Climbs the cleanest, blankest, rock up the center of the central pillar. A climb made famous after Alex Honnold's free solo ascent.

Rapell down, a 70m rope is enough down to the top of pitch 5, then you need 2 50m ropes.

First pitch has 13 bolts and 45m, a 80m rope brings you down to bolt one and you can downclimb.

At the end of the 2nd pitch, follow the left bolt line.

Climb the first two pitches of "Vida Preciosa", then from the top of the 2nd pitch follow the right bolt line.

18 pitches, up to 5.10d. Originally done on gear, retro-bolted in 1999. Retro-bolting still leaves many runouts, and there is, also, lots of loose rock to keep the sense of adventure alive.

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Selected Guidebooks more Ocultar

Author(s): Frank P. Madden

Data: 2022

ISBN: 979-8218024314

The latest guidebook to El Potrero Chico is now available in its third edition. This book has comprehensive detail of not just the routes but how and when to be there. Single pitch or multi-pitch, this book has it all. More great crag photos to help locate the spot you want to climb as well as plenty of topo photos to help you find all the routes you will want to climb. The new edition also has a new history, local history and geology section of the guidebook produced by local members of the community! There is also the long awaited index by grade! A comprehensive guidebook for all of El Potrero Chico, Las Ventanas de Mina (Crescent Moon Buttress and Culo de Gato), Grutas de García, La Popa and Boca de los Potrerillos. Including a couple newly developed crags called Narnia and SunnyVale, and more than a few new routes unpublished anywhere else. Has multi-pitch topo photos for the classic routes with pitch by pitch information.

Acomodações próximas more Ocultar

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Tue 13 Jun
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