Grade | Via | Estilo de equipamento | Popularidade | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Dona Kika Wall Pico norte | |||||
5.9 | ★★ Emiliano 2.10
Set: alvaro basich | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Los Gritos
FA: Andrea Padilla Set: andres basich, 2020 | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Nagual
FA: sergio escamilla Set: sergio escamilla, 2020 | 10 | |||
5.9 | ★★ Lluvia
| 30m, 15 | |||
5.9 | ★★ Mount Doom
FA: hermanos flou Set: sergio escamilla, 2020 | 13 | |||
5.9 | ★★ Dragonmount
FA: Santiago Sanchez Set: Santiago Sanchez, 2020 | 10 | |||
5.10a | ★★ El Miztiko Vegano
Set: andres basich | 11 | |||
5.9 | ★★ Pn6
Set: sergio escamilla & andres basich | ||||
Dona Kika Wall | |||||
5.9 | Ruta 2
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5.10a | ★★★ Ruta 3
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Ruta 4
Ruta con reunión incompleta. | |||||
5.12a | ★★ CORRUPCIIÓN
1
5.11b
2
5.11d
3
5.12a
Multilargo de 3 largos. Set: Mark Grunden, 2016 | 91m, 3 | |||
Carses' Wall | |||||
5.13- | The Breathe of Silence
Left most route. Three roofs and a run out headwall at the top. Belayer beware. Full anchors. Set: Ulric Rousseau, 2012 | 40m | |||
5.13- | Pictures of You
Extension of Almost Believe That They're Real. Continue past the first anchors through the roof and thin headwall up top to full anchors. Set: Ulric & Ulric Rousseau, 2012 | 45m | |||
5.13- | Almost Believe That They're Real
Start on the right side of the center wall, in a left facing dihedral. Climb past jugs through the roof and punch it to the chains past the second roof. Set: Ulric Rousseau, 2012 | 30m | |||
5.12b | ★★ El Camelion Azul
Use the first 4 bolts of Jimmy's Route then tread left. Followed by 25 meters of steep tufas and knee bars to the delicate finish below the anchors. Set: Ulric Rousseau, 2012 | 30m | |||
5.12- | Jimmy's Route
Please avoid touching the blocs in the gully on the left at the start of Jimmy's Route and El Camelion Azul. A familly of large exotic tropically colored Lizards live in that habitat. | ||||
5.12- | Electrika Kika
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5.11c/d | Petite Mervielle
Set: Ulric Rousseau, 2012 | 25m, 10 | |||
Gratitud Güey Wall | |||||
5.11d | ★★ No Way, Si Güey!
1
5.10c
37m
2
5.11a
30m
3
5.11b
27m
4
5.11d
36m
5
5.10b
40m
6
5.9
37m
7
6m
Pitches:
Gear: 80 meter singel or double 50 needed to rap! 15 quick draws (1 or 2 long ones could be handy) Approach: Walk from town to the El Salto canyon, pass the "Dona Kika Wall" on the left until you reach the goat herders shed, about 50 meters after you cross to the other side of the canyon and start walking up follow the trail marked by stone cairns.
| 210m, 6, 15 | |||
Tonanzi | |||||
5.12 | Lobo Plateado
This route does not see a lot of traffic, please provide info as you can. Set: Luiz Carlos Garcia & Julio Fernadez, 2011 | 5 | |||
5.13 | Tonanzi
Designed to be a trad route: lots of bolts, easy rappels, three or four bolt belay stations. Start just left of the lowest point on the wall. Bivy possible after pitch six. Cut under the obvious orange roof on pitch 11. Set: Connie Rochelle & Alex Catlin, 2016 | 300m, 12, 10 | |||
Joel’s Route
Start right of the lowest point of the wall. Unfinished project. | |||||
El Jardin | |||||
Unknown 1
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Unknown 2
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Unknown 3
Set: paya, 2012 | |||||
5.11a | Total Balance
Set: Ulric Rousseau, 2012 | ||||
5.9 | New Balance
Set: Ulric Rousseau, 2012 | ||||
Quintesa | |||||
Ulric's route
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5.11d | Spanglish Drama
1
5.10b
2
5.11a
3
5.11d
This route is the one left of Troska Ninja. It is a tall route (42m) with sub anchors for the rappel. It starts off with slab type moves with the crux in the thin vertical section just below the palm tree and then the fun starts when it gets in your face and the overhang starts. The bolts up top are a little run out. It can be done comfortably with a 60-70 meter rope. | 45m, 25 | |||
5.13 | Off Target
Technical headwall up to super overhanging then roof. Set: Alex Catlin, Feb 2016 | 30m | |||
5.12b | Dos gringos ,dos dias
Tricky moves through steep. Set: Grear Wilson, Greae Wilson & Daniel Setiawan, Dec 2015 | 22m, 12 | |||
Proje 1
Heading to the tufa tongue. | 3 | ||||
5.12- | ★★★ Dos Nacionalidades Un Corazón
Roof to the tufa system left of pornarchy. Shares anchors with Pornarchy FFA: Daniela Lopez Miran | 20m, 14 | |||
5.11b | ★★★ Pornarchy
Start at the end of the low roof and cut left into serious tufas. Set: Connie Rocelle, Dec 2015 | 22m | |||
5.12d | No name 1
1
5.5
2
5.12d
Technical facd climbing up to super steep tufas. Set: Alex Catlin, 2015 | 25m, 2 | |||
The Spire | |||||
5.10b | No Name 1
| 20m, 13 | |||
5.10b | No Name 2
| 20m, 11 | |||
No Name 3
| |||||
5.9 | No Name 4
The left route on the prouw with different types of hangers. | 16m, 9 | |||
5.11b | ★★ No Name 5
Up straight and left for the last bolt and anchor. | 17m, 8 | |||
No Name 6
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Animas Wall | |||||
Old hangers
A route with very old hangers located not far from the wooden structure. | |||||
Swing Swing
Route has no anchor. Set: Paya, 2013 | 15m, 7 | ||||
5.12d | Hall of Fame
DO NOT CLIMB as it is DANGEROUS. Set: Ulric Rousseau, 2013 | 35m, 16 | |||
5.11d | ★ Tufalingo
The last route on the left of animas wall. Start on watchtower and tread left of pinch -o-rama. Set: Ulric Rousseau, 2013 | 20m, 10 | |||
5.11+ | ★ Pinch-o-rama
Route full of side-pulls and underclings.Easy jugs finish. Set: Ulric Rousseau, 2013 | 18m, 8 | |||
5.11c | ★★ All Along the Watchtower
Climbs the dihedral up-right to straight finish to anchors Set: Ulric Rousseau, 2013 | 30m, 15 | |||
5.10d | ★ Ulricy Martin
Short route with anchor right of the small tree. Robin named this route. I don't know why but its funny. Watch the loose blocs above the anchors. Set: Ulric Rousseau, 2013 | 10m, 6 | |||
5.11c | ★ El Poder del Queso
Climb to the intermediate anchor of Power of Cheeze which is actually according to some local intel: El Poder del Queso It's run out and it has some chossy rock, but also some fun moves | ||||
5.13+ R | The Power of Cheeze
Runout. Scary! FA: poncheese | 35m, 11 | |||
5.12b | ★★ Angeles caminando entre nosotros
Starts left of bush to anchor under roof. Set: Ulric Rousseau, 2011 | 31m, 12 | |||
5.12a | ★★★ Cara Cortada
Going up the yellow rock with a bulge in the middle.Classic crimping up orange bomber rock. Set: Curtis Love, 2004 | 26m, 12 | |||
5.12b | ★★ Cara Cortada Extension
Set: jaicrisrthley & Jai Crisrthley, 2014 | 40m | |||
5.11d | ★★★ Bongkatron to the intermediate anchor
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5.12d | ★★ Bongkatron
Starts behind the small tree / bush into the open dihedral. Start on Malavisco and go straight up to a broken hold. Worth doing.CURTIS LOVE 2004 Set: Curtis Love, 2004 | 31m, 13 | |||
5.12a | ★★★ Malvavisco
Starts on Bongkatron, but finishes on Cara Cortada. Set: Curtis Love, 2004 | 20m | |||
5.12d | Dirty White Scorpion
Start on the left side of the left boulder detached form the wall, first bolt is high up the wall, a few moves off the boulder. FA: Brigitterobert Set: Brigitterobert & Ulricmarch, 2011 | 35m, 15 | |||
5.11c | ★★★ Alien Tufa
The perfect warm-up, super nice climbing on mostly good holds. | 28m, 12 | |||
5.12c | ★★★ Alien Tufa (Extension)
Look at the tufa above the first anchor and you just want to climb it! 4 more bolts.Full value and amazing 4 bolts of pure pinching(not)up high. Set: Paco Medina, 1998 | 35m, 16 | |||
5.11d | ★★★ Body Groovin'
Starts on top of the "middle flake" and finishes with the nice grey tufa. The classic warm-up with great moves on solid stone. | 28m, 11 | |||
5.12a | ★★★ Muchos Cornjurios
Starts on top of the right (pointy) flake. Set: jeb vetters, 1998 | 28m, 11 | |||
5.12b | ★★★ Echando Raíces
Starts right of the flakes, has 2 "random" perma draws on it. Set: jeb vetters, 1998 | 29m, 14 | |||
5.12a | ★★★ Culo de la Negra
One of the first routes on Las Animas.Classic. Set: ArthuroMartinez, PacoMedina, Alejandro & AlejandroPatino | 25m, 12 | |||
5.12d | ★★★ Culo de la Negra (Extensión)
Bajar a la primera reunión para poder descender al piso (aun con cuerda de 80m). Climb culo de la negra and continue for another 20m , lower to the first anchor to get to the ground (even with an 80m). Set: Ulric Rousseau, 2013 | 43m, 20 | |||
5.13b/c | ★★★ EL Banjo de Homero
FA: Fernande Calvan, 2011 | 35m | |||
5.12b | ★★★ Ojo de la Mente
Second route just left of the big tree.2nd pitch is 5.11d , rarely done because of massive beehive nest 3/4of way up. | 25m, 11 | |||
5.12c | ★★ Ojo de la Mente Extensión
Long, sustained, technical, endurance climb. There is a big bee nest along the way and you have to literally go through it. Usually the bees don't do anything if you move slowly, don’t touch the nest and you're not sweating. But sometimes they do attack. It’s quite a challenge and it adds up to the adventure. | 45m, 22 | |||
5.12d | ★★★ Lazy Boy Lover
Starts just left of the big tree and crosses right above it. Belayer be careful at the 4th crux moves. Set: John Garcia, 1997 | 30m, 16 | |||
5.12c | ★★ Tufa Lina
Set: John Garcia & Patrick O'Donnell | 15m, 8 | |||
5.13a | Tufa Lina Ext.
Extension de "Tufa Lina" | 20m, 12 | |||
5.13a | ★★★ Tufa Luna
The obvious grey tufa just right of the big tree where the flat dirt platform meets the dirt road. | 22m, 10 | |||
5.13c | Tufa Luna Ext.
Set: andres basich & Santiago Sanchez FFA: andres basich, 9 Aug 2020 | 10 | |||
5.13a | ★★ Panocha Poderosa
A hold broke at the crux, new grade at 5.13a. FFA: Curtis Love FA: Curtis Love | 30m | |||
5.13a | Panocha poderosa Ext.
FA: andres basich Set: andres basich | ||||
5.12a | ★★ Ramone's Mushroom Tufa
Climbs the huge tufa. Originally graded 5.11b! It seems a hold broke at the start making it 5.11d or even 5.12a. The boulder start is the crux. FFA: Ramone Huergo, 1997 | 18m, 8 | |||
5.12d | ★★ Mamacita
Goes up left along the big grey tufa ;-). Steep start and tough finish once you loose the tufa to your right. | 20m, 8 | |||
5.12c | ★★★ Mamacita Vikinga
That route climbs the best tufa of Las Animas. Near the top of the tufa you head right for some juggy climbing until you reach the beautiful orange streak. The headwall offers very good climbing on good crimps, side pulls and other cool features. Clip the bolt line right of the tufa, It shares the anchors with Inercia. Set: 21 Dec FA: Francois Bergeron, 22 Dec | 30m, 14 | |||
5.13b | Inercia
Set: Curtis Love, 2009 | 30m | |||
5.13a | ★★★ Caronte
FFA: martinez y ricarsovara, 2012 FA: Martinez y ricardovara, 2012 | 25m | |||
5.13c | La Vida de Una Mariposa
It’s the first route to the left of the fence.Dirty corner to a slab with small holds and long resaches. Short. Not worth doing. Set: Ulric Rousseau, 2012 | 20m, 8 | |||
5.14 | Todo o Nada
Impossible looking orange slab to cool climbing above. Set: Ulric Rousseau, 2011 | ||||
5.13b | ★★ La Maquina en el Jardín
Start in the corner with a boulder move and move up through some slab moves(Hard) to reach the tufa and palm tree. Rest. From there, prepare for 25m of super steep and exposed climbing. Probubly the best route of its grade in the park. Closed now due to Historical Research. Start left of "El Primer Paso" in a corner and continue up passed the anchors for a mind crushing pump.Stellar and super clean.Good job boys! FA: Devon Junker Set: Devlin Junker & Adam, 2011 | 20m, 7 | |||
5.13a | El Primer Paso
Climb up the left side of the huge tufa. Set: Ulric Rousseau, 2011 | 30m, 11 | |||
5.12c | ★★★ Bunga Bunga
Climb the blue and orange slab up and left Through tufas and a little surprise at the end. The classic on the wall. Nothing beats it. Set: Ricardo Ramos, 2000 | 30m, 12 | |||
5.13c/d | ★★★ Bunga Bunga EXT.
5 more bolts and 12 meters off the anchors of Bunga Bunga for the grade. Enjoy the runout at the 3rd bolt. If you call this 13c, you obviously had extended draws at the anchors when you did it to help you through the last moves before clipping the actual anchor. Climb it like it was done, then we will talk. Set: Ulric Rousseau, 2011 | 40m | |||
5.13c | ★★★ Guitarra de Lolo
Share the firsts bolts with “Unga Bunga” and goes right at the 5th bolt through fixed draws for 35M power endurance climbing. Set: Lolo, 2005 | ||||
Closed route
Lower bolts are removed because of petroglyphs higher bolts remain. Set: James Cruikshank & Diego M | |||||
5.14c/d | Touched by God
First bolts are chopped. Climbed to the sub anchor(14a) by Ricardo Vara in 2016. Offical FA by Bruno "Machina" Garcia Feb 2019. Set: Ulric Rousseau | ||||
5.13c | ★★★ El Valiente
Starts with Dias de Purgatorio but trends out left to the Anchors Travesía; escalas hasta el descanso de "Días de Purgatorio" y te vas hacia la izquierda en la travesía. Set: Urs Moosmüller & Ulric Rousseau | ||||
5.14- | ★★★ A ver si muy Chicho
Extension of El valiente. Keep going to massive tufas and runouts. | 40m, 17 | |||
5.13b | ★★★ Dias de Purgatorio
Starts just where the road hits the wall on your way down. Same start as Bizzare Contacts and same finish too, but trends left arround the tuffas instead of right.Watch the ground fall at the 2nd and 4th bolts. Set: Martinez & Moco, 2010 | 17m, 11 | |||
5.14a | ★★★ Murder Weapon
Drive your biceps and fingers through the first crux to a rest, then enjoy the rest of the 5.13 climbing to the anchors. Original entrance through "Bizarre Contact" but when climbed through "Días de Purgatorio" it’s named “Murder Weapon”. Set: Ulric Rousseau | ||||
5.13d | Silent Assasin
Drive your biceps and fingers through the first crux to a rest, then enjoy the rest of the 13 climbing to the anchors. Set: Ulric Rousseau | ||||
5.12b | ★★ Bizarre Contact
Hard bouldery crux at the bottom followed by a good rest and then a heady crux up top. 3 huge tufas mark this route on the right side of the wall near the 4 wheeler trail. Set: James Carse, 1998 | 18m, 9 | |||
5.13 | ★★★ Tufa King Pumped
Start on Bizarre Contact and continue straight in between the huge tufas. Needs a good brushing. Bouldery and pumpy in the chains... Set: Ulric Rousseau, 2011 | 25m | |||
5.13+ | ★★★ Tufa King Pumped & Scared
Extension of Tufa King Pumped... I hope you like run outs! | 40m | |||
5.14 | Life after you
Set: Ulric Rousseau, 2012 | 45m, 13 | |||
5.13b | ★★ Tufa King Short
Hard bouldery route, short but worth the effort. FA: Devlin Junker | 20m, 6 | |||
5.14b | ★★★ Tufa King Long
The extension of Tufa King Short. A little more than 40m long... Use a 70m long rope to go to TKS anchors or a 80m to go all the way down, barely... Set: David Ramiro Zúñiga, 15 Apr 2020 FA: David Ramiro Zúñiga, 27 Aug 2020 | 40m, 20 |