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Grade | Via | Estilo de equipamento | Popularidade | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
5.11a | Hombros De Gigantes
1
5.9
2
5.10a
3
5.11a
4
5.10
5
5.10
6
5.10+
This 6 pitch route is now open to the public. Established ground up with removable bolts but bolted with stainless steel glue-in wave bolts on rappel. Someday it will go all the way to the top, an estimated 6 more pitches. But the halfway height shouldn’t stop people from climbing it now and enjoying getting some elevation. If I have seen further than others, it is by standing upon the shoulders of giants. - Isaac Newton The name is to recognize all the pioneers that went before me that helped establish Mexico climbing, I would name them all but then I would forget someone deserving of much respect. Also, one of our bolting party Dylan is a very tall man with a very long ape index and an even bigger appetite for adventure. Given what he has been through adventuring with me he deserves to have a climb named after him. To top it all off to me also the top of the mountain looks like two shoulders. Pitch 1 5.9 - Starts at the top of the vegetated boulder field, look for the bolts that go up, start climbing. Pitch 2 5.10a - Some really nice quality climbing. Be sure to touch the palm tree for good luck. Pitch 3 5.11a - This is the crux pitch but the hard section is bolted close enough you could French free it if you needed to. Palm tree makes a nice rest ledge before starting the cruxy section. Pitch 4 5.10 - A lot of yucca died so you could enjoy this pitch, but don’t worry, they aren’t coming back and they left behind some face climbing for you. Pitch 5 5.10 Touch the palm tree for good luck, this is palm tree #3 on the route. Pitch 6 5.10+ Cool finishing moves near the top of the pitch. Route Development by (in no particular order): Joel Schopp, John Deas, Dylan Weldin, Heath Dieckert, Jason Mann, & Lynne Maphies. Thanks to my wife and kids for putting up with several trips across the border and back. Random notes: * Pitch 1 is shorter at maybe 23m, everything else is about 28m-30m. Can rappel it all with a 60 if you tie stopper knots. * Pitch 4, 5, and 6 wander a bit and will require some swinging if rappeled with 1 rope. If you do double rope rappels top of 6->4->2 it goes a lot straighter. * The climb gets sun starting about 9am until about noon because it faces east and a bit north. The deep cliff shade in the afternoon makes it tolerable to climb this late into the climbing season. Especially since the canyon stays 10-15 degrees cooler F than Monterrey. Set: Joel Schopp, John Deas, Dylan Weldin, Heath Dieckert, Jason Mann & Lynne Maphies | 180m, 6 |
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