Vias em Montenegro para uma graduação selecionada

Maybe the longest route at Smoki..exposed and awesome. Even though the hardest move is down low, a few technical cruxes await you on small crimps...plus or minus some stemming. The top can become overgrown and a little dirty without traffic but you are on big holds. You need a 70m for this route and a few long draws for drag.

A few different ways to do this one. Direct is about 6b+, but going left is easier at maybe 6b.

Not the easiest warmup. A few committing moves on a small overhang.

Awkward and hard now that the crux hold is missing.

A fun one with creative rest stances.

Heartbreaker at the chains!

Pumpy, with a hard anchor clip.

Best route of this sector. A bit crumbly in parts with a broken rock section containing the thin crux.

Access

From Podgorica to Niksic until Savik small town which is located south of the Durmitor massif. From Savnik go through to Zabljak after about 2 km at the sign "Canyon Komarnica" turn on a side road. Follow a narrow path to the crossroads and turn left. At the next turn, turn right and follow the path all the way to the end.

Access to the wall

Follow well-marked trail to the valley until you see the wall where the grass whispers commit direction (see figure). You need to cross the river before walking trail begins to climb the small hill on the left.

Descent

Rappel series route. There is always a bolt at anchorages or tree that you can use. See drawing for details.

Equipment

The direction is almost pure with a Bolt on most anchorages. If there is no bolt can easily improve anchorage using buddies or chokes. We used two sets of buddies to a size 4, and one lad size 4.5 slightly C3, chokes and some wedges. Two cords of 60m.

Approach:

Same as for route "Pozarevacki", start is 50 meters on the right below easily visible big flake.

Route:

Follow system of cracks to the bottom of the flake , over the flake to reach the low angle ground and continue following the line of least resistance to the end of the wall

Descent: follow ridge on the right until visible filed than down the forest to the road.

Furthest route to the left, at the very top of the hill on the grey rock.