Ascensões em Pilier Du Couchant tendo Beta

Bring trad gear. Big runouts on very sharp stone, the crux is on the second pitch. Scramble around 50m, then go left you will see fixed ropes and first abseil spot. 2x60m half ropes were enough for 2 abseils.

It is called La Classique for a reason. Obvious line when you walk through the gorge, very well bolted in general and not polished at all even though the route was opened in 1977. Very continuous in the grade throughout the whole adventure.

Early start made our fingers freeze on the first pitch that probably is the hardest of all. Climbing felt better from then on. Favourite pitches probably #4 and #7. Last pitch felt harder than 5b/c and is the only one with run out bolting.

Not that easy to find your way to the plateau after topping out.

Absolute mega classic at the grade! Climbed on an 80m single. Linked pitches 1&2, 3&4, 5&6 and 8&9. There’s only 9 pitches though, not sure why it’s listed as 10 here. Not polished and not super sharp either. Descent is easy scramble up a bit and right until you see the cairns. Delightful day.

After key pitches abseiled down due to partner’s sickness

Climb no. 4 according to the guide book from climbers Allal and Abdul in the gorge (no name).

1. 6a

2. 6a+

3. 6b

4. 6b

5. 5c

6. 5c

Walk off at the top - about an hour down to the road.

Beautiful classic climb. Full of chimneys and dihedrals, well protected. A bit of route finding on pitches 1, 2 and 5.

I've put up this route with Martin Bloem in 1987

Alt leads with dave, did in 6 long pitches. Some really interesting sections. Glad we took a rack! The guide says only quick draws but it's old school with bolts pitons and long run outs and difficult route finding.

240 metres! Fantastic, sustained climbing with incredible views.