Ascensões em Gorges du Todgha tendo Beta

Very sharp rock which is hard on the hands but fun. The raps down were slightly annoying becuase the rope was getting caught on everything. Easy for the grade but a great multi-pitch for beginners.

The First of Ela (F5+) 250 meter.

Place: (31.5828963, -5.5927324) Walk along the river. Look for a electrocity post and walk up a sandy hillside.

1. pitch 4:You will meet a big rock and maybe you can’t see the next bolt. Look to the left and traverse to the left.

2. Pitch 10:You reach a big plateau and might not see a bolt. Scramble 10 meters up to the wall to the left and you will see and anchor.

3. Pitch 13:You will be on a mountain back (safe), but you haven’t reach the top yet! Look to the pyramid shaped top and you will have to climb 3 more bolt. At the top (Where you can sit) there is an abseil anchor. You can then abseil down to the left and then continue scrambling down.

Remember: Trekking shoes. Clothes for the wind and weather change. Food. It took us 7,5 hours to climb. And 1 hour scrambling down.

It is easy climbing, but important that one of you is an experienced climber!

ENJOY it’s an amazing experience:-)

Remember: Your guidebook, warm clothes, trad gear for extra protection, food/water, good trekking shoes for the long decent (1 hour). It took us 7,5 hours to climb and 1 hour to decent. Do not underestimate this route.

You need to scramble to find the starting point. Somebody has painted “TIK”. The ascent is step, but loads of footholds and grips. When you reach the last anchor you can just start your ascend

No anchor at end of the first pitch. Quicklink present though.

No anchor at the end of first pitch.

Bring trad gear. Big runouts on very sharp stone, the crux is on the second pitch. Scramble around 50m, then go left you will see fixed ropes and first abseil spot. 2x60m half ropes were enough for 2 abseils.

Easy MP, with 2 bit harder pitches, the rest is scramble like. First pitch is the hardest. Walk off 2+ hours. Around 7 hours for whole route and walkoff. Few cams needed for mental protection in long runouts.

Spaced and rather scary

Spaced and rather scary

Fun, good, long

Technical climb on prefect rock.

Great half day adventure with Hayley, Carlos and Aum

Climbed as one very long pitch using all our draws. First pitch polished, 2nd perfect (sharp) rock.

Cross the river to access, second belay station is easy to miss, 15 QuickDraws you can skip the second and go straight to third (40m). At third belay station go on foot to the top

It is called La Classique for a reason. Obvious line when you walk through the gorge, very well bolted in general and not polished at all even though the route was opened in 1977. Very continuous in the grade throughout the whole adventure.

Early start made our fingers freeze on the first pitch that probably is the hardest of all. Climbing felt better from then on. Favourite pitches probably #4 and #7. Last pitch felt harder than 5b/c and is the only one with run out bolting.

Not that easy to find your way to the plateau after topping out.

First multiptich in Morocco. Well bolted. Pretty good climbing over-all. Traverse on fourth pitch didn't feel that hard. Some moderate rain for the last two pitches made the whole outing more adventurous. Not easy to find rappel on route to the left.

Great climbing. Interesting moves on the bottom slab part, big moves on the uppper overhang. Second go send.

Absolute mega classic at the grade! Climbed on an 80m single. Linked pitches 1&2, 3&4, 5&6 and 8&9. There’s only 9 pitches though, not sure why it’s listed as 10 here. Not polished and not super sharp either. Descent is easy scramble up a bit and right until you see the cairns. Delightful day.

Fun climbing but could deck going to third bolt

After key pitches abseiled down due to partner’s sickness

6h bei gemäßigten Tempo

Superb!

Good shit!

Not entierly sure which route we climbed here with our guide, but it was a 170m multi-pitch sport climb route

**Climbed first pitch only

First pitch only***

**First pitch only

Climb no. 4 according to the guide book from climbers Allal and Abdul in the gorge (no name).

1. 6a

2. 6a+

3. 6b

4. 6b

5. 5c

6. 5c

Walk off at the top - about an hour down to the road.

Beautiful classic climb. Full of chimneys and dihedrals, well protected. A bit of route finding on pitches 1, 2 and 5.