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Mt Horrible

  • Contexto da graduação: AU
  • Ascensões: 190
31

Sazonalidade

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Sumário

Mt Horrible is a small but quality trad crag close to Timaru. The basalt here is of good quality, and the climbing has an abundance of cracks of all sizes from fingers to off-width.

Descrição

The crag is almost exclusively trad, with very few bolts, and the cracks being quite parallel tend to lend themselves to camming devices and not so much to nuts

Questões de acesso

The landowners are Penny and David Seyb, though the land is currently leased and managed by Geoff Hayward. They have kindly granted climbers access and there is no need to contact them before climbing but please observe the usual courtesies and show respect while on their land. Please do NOT climb here during lambing season (Aug-Oct).

Acesso

Search for Mt Horrible Road (which is a long dead end road), drive about 5km (up the hill and a few hundred meters after the seal ends) until you come to a gate in the middle of a tall tree hedge on your left. Park your car off the side of the road, being aware not to block the gate. Walk southwest-ish for about 500m through farm paddocks (please stick to the fence lines and do not walk on the crops) and head for the pine trees which mark the edge of Mt Horrible. The climbing is under one significant large pine tree.

Vias

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Grade Via

The imposing off-width roof crack in the large slab of rock that caps the access cave. Very entertaining! This climb is a good 60m left of the main climbing area.

FA: Brent Davis

This climb marks the left hand end of the main climbing area, just right of the big pine trees at the top. Starts in a large off-width crack just next to a large mahoe tree. Leads in to a large clean corner which gets trickier the higher you go. Double ring bolt anchor.

Start on the steep, short, strenuous hand crack, then slightly left into large off-width, then right into twin crack corner. Original start was was to the right but the tree at grade 15 (not recommended). Double ring bolt anchor.

The original (and best) start is on the slab with thin crack that rises to the right, a great balancy move. Layback and jam into left facing corner with hand crack, then step right into a beautiful open book corner with killer hand jams and bridging. Alternative start is 2m to the right up the corner of Turn to Gold.

Bolts need replacing, do NOT use them!

A Dave Fearnley classic. Scramble onto ledge, arrange your gear, your beta and your headspace, and launch up the thin finger crack up the overhang (first crux), grovel into the pod (second crux) then do what you can to get out of the pod (third crux) into the finshing hand crack.

FA: Dave Fearnley

Another My Horrible classic. The crux has been the scene of many a lead fall, as leaders stall halfway through the bulging layback, wondering whether to stop and try and place more gear, or just push on through.

Yet another Mt Horrible classic, and many locals fav climb here. A bit of everything in its short length; straight up the solid finger crack, move right into the bomber hand crack, arrange gear and headspace, and climb left into the overhanging crux buldge. Warm down on the off-width crack to finish.

Start with a short and ferocious layback up small right facing corner.Then bridge up the obvious line with some great hand jams.

FA: Sash Nukada, Jun 2018

Starts in the little alcove behind the tree. Move onto ledge then up the corner.

Great climbing at the grade. Start up the left facing corner and into the large pea pod. Bridge your way up and out of it until you hit some welcome jugs. Finish easy up the left leaning crack.

Wild indeed. The warm up is a wide bridge with hand jams up into the cave thing (watch your head), then hand jam your way out of it (or layback the crack if you can't jam). Move right up to wide crack and up to finish. Just note the entire right side of Wildman is a giant pillar thats not sitting on very much.

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