North Island's new destination adventure crag. Tramp 2 hours up a beautiful stream and valley to reach a massive rhyolite cliff that is part of a caldera volcano from 9 million years ago.
Quality mix of sport, trad and mixed routes. The face is steep and the rock is hard. Includes North Island's longest multi pitch at 170m.
The track starts from a farm at 373 Puketui Valley Road. The owners are great and allow climbers to park on their property down by the river, just right of the first bridge. We have installed a sign and register book, and you do not need to contact the owners in advance as long as you fill in the book. So fill in the book!! The owners do want to know who is crossing the farm so please respect this.
Tairua crag is located near the second branch of the Tairua river, at the intersection of Camp and Scots stream, within the southern sector of the Coromandel Forest Park.
The track starts in the corner of a field by the river. Roughly 5km long but it may take up to three hours on your first trip in. It is marked with white/grey trail markers and orange/blue/pink tape that are quite frequent the whole way. The last third has a few steep sections with fixed lines to help get up/down. The track is somewhat messy due to the January floods (2023) so stay switched on. There is GPS reception the whole way up. More info on the freeclimbNZ PDF that's free to download.
It is possible to follow the main river out from the campsite but is very dependant on river level if you want to stay dry. The largest waterfall (15m) in the second branch of the river has a bolt to rap down off. The second largest (comes before) supposedly has one too (possibly lost to the Jan 2023 floods) but can be walked around on the left hand side. Good swimming spots and views for a walk out on a hot day.
More info about taking the river out: https://www.kiwicanyons.org/tairua-river-2nd-branch-v2a2iii/
There is a great campsite down by the river, about 10 minutes down the hill from the crag on the other side. Campsite has a small long drop toilet but bring something to dig a hole with incase it's full.
Tairua was originally spotted from the Pinnacles track, and received its first visit from Greg Kolbe and Robert Scott after a seven hour bush bash down steep canyons. Greg and Robert put up the first line, Are We Tramping Yet? ground up on trad, and then convinced Edwin Sheppard to tag along on the next mission. A track followed and so did many more epics on the wall in pursuit of new routes.
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Tairua Crag - View from Slip Boulder
Mike De Wet em The Slip Boulder - IMG_4684.jpeg
Tairua Crag - IMG_20200229_074617.jpg
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