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Gandalf Main Principalmente Escalada trad 25 vias no penhasco

25
YDS
5.65.75.85.95.10a5.10c5.11a5.11c5.12a

Sazonalidade

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Descrição

All day sun, easy access, good rock & several entry level routes make this the most popular crag near Henningsvær. It´s the first one in/last one out of condition each season and can stay climbable January through November.

In the summer, expect to line up for the guidebook classics.

Descent notes

A pleasant walk off (West).

There is also an abseil line which was rebolted April 2020. 2 rapps (42 & 34m). It´s not unusual for the ropes to get snagged.

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Vias

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Grade Via
1
7- Edderkoppen Trad 50m, 2
1 6- 25m
2 7- 25m
2
6 ★ Tynne ting Trad 35m
3
6+ Nøttolfs fristelse Trad 45m, 2
1 6+ 25m
2 6 20m
4
6+ Nøtteliten Trad 95m, 3
1 6+ 25m
2 5 45m
3 6- 25m
5
7 ★★ Førstereisgutten Trad 95m, 3
1 7 40m
2 6- 45m
3 3 10m
6
6 ★★★ Gamle rev Trad 110m, 2
1 6 45m
2 6 60m

FA: Ed Webster & Thorbjørn Enevold, 1993

7
7 Revungen Trad 110m, 3
1 6 45m
2 7 20m
3 6 40m

  1. As for Gamle rev.

  2. Variation right out on the arete. Belay on the sloping ledge when you rejoin Gamle rev.

  3. As for Gamle rev.

FA: Asgeir Larsen & Thorbjørn Enevold, 2007

8
6 ★★★ Tromsø ekspressen Trad 95m, 3
1 6 40m
2 6 30m
3 5 25m

FA: Håvard Nesheim & Sjur Nesheim, 1979

9
5- Lost Gandalf Trad 110m, 3
1 5- 40m
2 5- 40m
3 5- 25m

  1. Starts a few metres left of Smeagul in the grassy crack & up to the black ledge where you move right over to the Gollum belay.

  2. As for Gollum.

  3. As for Gollum.

10
5+ ★★ Lost Expressen Trad 95m, 3

First pitch of Lost Gandalf, thereafter finish up ´Tromsø ekspressen´ final 2 pitches.

11
5+ ★ Smeagul Trad 110m, 3
1 5+ 40m
2 5+ 40m
3 5- 25m

In the guidebook, the first pitches of Gollum and Smeagul are reveresed. Smeagul starts left of the block, going up the tricky zig zag crack.

FA: Jonas Dahlstrup & Simon Svendsen, 2008

12
5 ★★★ Gollum Trad 110m, 3
1 5
2 5-
3 5-

Beautiful series of cracks. Very easy to protect. Comfortable belay stances and descent on foot.

In the guidebook, the first pitches of Gollum and Smeagul are reveresed. Gollum starts at the top of the block.

FA: Arild Meyer & Sjur Nesheim, 1985

13
5 ★ Gandalf's kamin Trad 110m, 3
1 5 40m
2 4 20m
3 5- 50m

As for Gandalf, Gollum or Lost Gandalf then move over to the base of the orange chimney (kamin)

14
5 ★★★ Gandalf Trad 100m, 3
1 5 40m
2 5- 35m
3 5- 25m

A classic & the first route to dry on the wall

FA: Arild Meyer, 1978

15
6+ ★★★ Gandalf original avslutning Trad 25m

The original finish to Gandalf goes left of eagles nest (the P2 belay) up the burly crack. Big cam nice.

16
6- ★★★ Guns n' Roses Trad 90m, 3
1 5 40m
2 6- 25m
3 6- 25m

One of the best lines here. Pitch 1 goes just right of Gandalf & up the corner with a tree before trending right & up the arete to a large belay ledge. Pitch 2 heads right & then up the short & steep hand crack (crux) to a ledge. The final pitch takes gradually easing finger cracks through the orange rock to the summit.

Pitch 3 image-

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Fanny Cassandra Victorin (@fannyvictorin)

FA: Thorbørn Enevold & Trul Seines, 1993

17
5 ★★★ Gun's and Gandalf Trad 100m, 3
1 5
2 5-
3 5-

A nice alternative for anyone wanting to climb Gandalf with a pack

  1. As for Guns n' Roses (40m)

  2. As for Gandalf (35m)

  3. As for Gandalf (25m)

18
6 ★★★ Gandalf and Rose Trad 100m, 3

A straight line using 2 classic routes. Start this combination climbing the 1st pitch on Gandalf. Thereafter, climb the 2nd and 3rd pitch of Guns and Roses.

19
6+ Krympefesten Trad 100m, 3
1 6 40m
2 6+ 25m
3 6- 35m
20
6 Rolling Stone Trad 95m, 3
1 5+ 45m
2 6 35m
3 5 15m
21
7- Vår pump Trad 85m, 2
1 6+ 45m
2 7- 40m
22
7- Three Lions on the Shirt Trad 85m, 2
1 7- 40m
2 5 45m
23
8- The Caveman Trad 85m, 2
1 7 35m
2 8- 50m
24
8- ★★★ Rasmus ekspressen Trad 70m, 2
1 6+ 35m
2 8- 35m
25
6 AID:A3 Souhalia Andrawes Aid 80m, 4
1 A2 20m
2 A3 15m
3 A2 20m
4 6 25m

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5 ★★★ Gandalf
6 ★★★ Gamle rev
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