Grade | Via | Estilo de equipamento | Qualidade | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Fri 4th Aug 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Vestvågøy Eggum | |||||||
6c Hard | ★★ Ildvann - with Håkon | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great warm up route.
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Mon 31st Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy The Coast Time is a disaster | |||||||
7- A0 | FA ★ Joika Raiders - with Christoffer Martinsen | ★ Good | |||||
Wed 26th Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Djupfjord Pillaren (Point 713m) | |||||||
7- ~6- | ★★ The King Has Spoken - with Pat | 600m | ★ Good | ||||
Rockfax topo & description were good. Thought maybe bit nicer than Celebrian but definitely no classic. Perhaps something was lost in translation for German to Norwegian grades. Taking 3 full grades off each pitch seemed about right
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Fri 7th Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Presten Presten | |||||||
6 |
★★★ Korstoget
- with
Andrea O
1
6
35
2
5
40
3
6
40
| 120m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Korstoget into Vestpillaren
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Tue 6th Sep 2022 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kabelvåg- området Sandvika Main Wall | |||||||
6a 5b | ★ Turboelskeren | ★★ Very Good | |||||
6c | ★★ Campingliv | ★★ Very Good | |||||
6c | ★★ Campingliv | ★★ Very Good | |||||
6b+ | ★ Rage of Honor | ★ Good | |||||
Thu 25th Aug 2022 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main | |||||||
5 | ★★★ Gollum - with Nico and Alba | 110m | |||||
5 | ★★★ Gandalf - with Nico and Aba | 100m | |||||
Thu 25th Aug 2022 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken | |||||||
5+ | ★★ Appelcake Arete - with Nico and Alba | 60m | |||||
4+ | ★★ Pianohandler Lunds Rute - with Nico | 110m | |||||
Thu 25th Aug 2022 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Dammen | |||||||
4+ | ★★ Sentrums risset - with Nico | 10m | |||||
4+ | ★★ Venstre risset - with Nico | 10m | |||||
Sat 13th Aug 2022 - Lofoten | |||||||
Vestvågøy Eggum | |||||||
6a 5c | ★ Eggulf | ||||||
6a 5c | ★★ Baginski spesial | ||||||
6a | ★ Forselv rederi | ||||||
6b+ 6c | ★★ Lille vakre anna | ||||||
7b+ | ★★★ Commando | ||||||
7b+ | ★★ Heimlich maneuver | ||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Gullfaks | 20m | |||||
7b+ 7b | ★★★ Alopølsa | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
7a | ★★ Alkotest | 20m | |||||
6b+ 6c/c+ | ★★ Ildvann | 15m | |||||
Wed 3rd Aug 2022 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy The Coast Jomfrupillaren | |||||||
7- | ★★ Bingekos | 120m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Wed 3rd Aug 2022 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Nipen Junior veggen | |||||||
5b | Herran og Derran | ||||||
4b | Puffen | ||||||
4b | Puffing | ||||||
3 | Smågodt | ||||||
6b | Vedvarande | ||||||
6a | Balansere | ||||||
5b | Puffin | ||||||
6a | Duffen | ||||||
Sun 10th Jul 2022 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Djupfjord Bare blåbær | |||||||
5 5- | ★★★ Bare Blåbær | 250m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Majeure !
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Wed 6th Jul 2022 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Djupfjord Bare blåbær | |||||||
5 5- | ★★★ Bare Blåbær - with alan pearson | 250m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
3rd time up this route, enjoyed every one.
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5 5- | ★★★ Bare Blåbær - with alan pearson | 250m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
3rd time up this route, enjoyed every one.
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Sun 3rd Jul 2022 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Presten Presten | |||||||
6 | ★★★ Vestpillaren - with Innika | 480m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Such a classic line. For parties wanting to move fast, it can safely be done in 7 pitches by simul-climbing to pitch 2 & then again to P5. From here, pitch out as in the guidebook to a nice ledge 10m above the top of slanting corner (just before the loose block and short wide section). 10/11 can then be linked with a 60m & careful rope management
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Thu 30th Jun 2022 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main | |||||||
6 | ★★★ Gamle rev - with Innika | 110m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Tue 28th Jun 2022 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kabelvåg- området Hjørnet | |||||||
7 | ★★★ Ninjarisset - with Sara S | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Mon 27th Jun 2022 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Presten Presten | |||||||
7- | ★★★ Klokkeren - with Rune Harjo | 150m | |||||
7- | ★★★ Klokkeren - with Rune Harjo | 150m | |||||
Sat 25th Jun 2022 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Djupfjord Bare blåbær | |||||||
5 |
★★★ Bare Blåbær
1
4
26m
2
5
34m
3
5-
32m
4
5-
28m
5
5-
40m
6
5-
40m
7
4-
48m
| 250m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 25th Jun 2022 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Djupfjord Pillaren (Point 713m) | |||||||
6- | ★★ Celebrian | 530m | ★ Good | ||||
Wed 22nd Jun 2022 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Vågakallen | |||||||
7 7 R - X | ★★★ Storpillaren - with Håvard Sæppele | 620m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Wed 6th Apr 2022 - Lofoten | |||||||
Vestvågøy Eggum | |||||||
6b+ 6c/c+ | ★★ Ildvann | 15m | |||||
6b+ 6c/c+ | ★★ Ildvann | 15m | |||||
7a | ★★ Alkotest | 20m | |||||
7b Ac | ★★★ Alopølsa | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
The anchore is moved and the rout ends where alopils anchore is drawn in
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Fri 31st Dec 2021 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Northeast Stauren | |||||||
M5 WI5- WI4 - 5 | ★★★ Bruvoll-Widlund - with Andreas Widlund | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Great climb on snow, ice and turf. One steep ice section and a bouldery mixed pitch
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Sun 14th Nov 2021 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken | |||||||
4+ | ★★ Pianohandler Lunds Rute | 110m | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 14th Nov 2021 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main | |||||||
5 | ★★★ Gandalf | 100m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Gandalf into Gollum to avoid some slippy parts. Vises, Gandalf
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Wed 3rd Nov 2021 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main | |||||||
6 ~6- | ★★★ Tromsø ekspressen - with Vegard With Stennes | 95m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6 | ★★★ Gamle rev - with Vegard With Stennes | 110m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Det siste Gandalf klatretur. Kommer til å savne ikke ha dette i bakgården
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Sat 28th Aug 2021 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Presten Presten | |||||||
6+ | ★★★ Himmelen kan vente | 310m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 28th Aug 2021 - Lofoten | |||||||
Vestvågøy Eggum | |||||||
7b+ 7c | ★★ Alopils | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 15th Aug 2021 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Vågakallen | |||||||
7 R - X | ★★★ Storpillaren - with Ada, Ingrid V | 620m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
It was hard. Suggested rack was a 0.1 micro cam, doubles in black totem to #3 plus a #4. Could get away with less, but was happy to have them all.
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Wed 14th Jul 2021 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Festvåg Store Festvåg | |||||||
6 | ★ Straight Albatross - with Fanny, Kjetil | 90m | ★ Good | ||||
Tue 6th Jul 2021 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Svolvær- området Svolværgeita | |||||||
5 | ★★ Rapellruta | 48m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 3rd Jul 2021 - Lofoten | |||||||
Moksnesøya Kirkefjorden Breiflogtinden | |||||||
7+ | ★★★ One hundred years later - with Håvard Indrevik Seppelæ | 600m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Fantastic route. We also ripped of a crimp at the crux, but it will not make a difference.
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Wed 23rd Jun 2021 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy The Coast Jomfrupillaren | |||||||
7+ | ★★★ Den Siste Sommeren - with Alexander | 130m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Seemed like the appropriate time to finally tick this. Super nice crack climbing. Pitch 2 is mega with a couple of really cool boulder problems. Protects well. Carried a 0.2 & triples in 0.3-0.4 but didn´t place them.
Standard Lofoten rack works fine.
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Wed 9th Jun 2021 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken Maurpillaren | |||||||
4 | ★★ Pedersenryggen - with Vegard With Stennes | ★ Good | |||||
Short rope practice / Vågarisset recovery session
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Wed 9th Jun 2021 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Vågarisset | |||||||
6+ | ★★★ Vågarisset - with Alexander | 70m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Lives up to the hype. Heavy. Two 4s & 5s plus a sling is your rack for P2. Lower-off is now a nest of cord & tatt, awkwardly placed high on a flake. The well positioned bolts are missing hangers :((
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Sun 6th Jun 2021 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken Maurpillaren | |||||||
5- 4 | ★★ Pedersenryggen | ★ Good | |||||
Fri 4th Jun 2021 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main | |||||||
5 | ★★★ Gollum | 110m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Thu 3rd Jun 2021 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main | |||||||
5+ 5 | ★★★ Gandalf | 100m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Wed 2nd Jun 2021 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken | |||||||
4+ | ★★ Pianohandler Lunds Rute | 110m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tue 1st Jun 2021 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Svolvær- området Svolværgeita | |||||||
6- 5+ | ★★★ Forsida | 120m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Tue 1st Jun 2021 - Lofoten | |||||||
Moksnesøya Kirkefjorden Breiflogtinden | |||||||
7+ | ★★★ One hundred years later - with Sofie | 600m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Sustained, varied climbing with just the right amount of runouts to keep things safe but spicy. The setting is out of this world. One of the very best I´ve climbed in Norway.
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Wed 26th May 2021 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Festvåg Store Festvåg | |||||||
6- | ★★ Four pitch route - with Sofie | 80m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
#4 for start of P4 nice
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Tue 25th May 2021 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Djupfjord Sjøsvaet | |||||||
7 | ★★ Lay-bye Layback - with Sofie | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Climbs nicer than it looks.
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Tue 25th May 2021 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Svolvær- området Svolværgeita | |||||||
6+ | ★★★ Englevinger - with Sofie | 85m, 1 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
There won´t be a line for this one but it´s 3 varied & high quality pitches. Deserves it´s Top50 guidebook tag
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Fri 21st May 2021 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Presten Presten | |||||||
6 | ★★★ Vestpillaren | 480m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Mon 17th May 2021 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Festvåg Store Festvåg | |||||||
7- ~6+ | ★★★ Fire forsøk - with Sofie | 80m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
The crag classic with P1/2 linked? So goood!
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Fri 13th Nov 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Festvåg Store Festvåg | |||||||
6 | ★★★ Lundeklubben - with Vegard With Stennes | 90m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
This line is waaay hyped plus, roof/bulge pitch seeps & will more often than not, be the only wet section on the wall. Not even top 5 on the Festvåg cliffs
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Mon 19th Oct 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Main Cliff | |||||||
5 | ★ Orkan - with Aniek | Average | |||||
Searching for sun while the projects dry/defrost
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4 | ★ Laber bris - with Aniek | Average | |||||
5+ | ★ Stiv kuling - with Aniek | ★ Good | |||||
5+ | Frisk bris - with Aniek | Average | |||||
Sun 4th Oct 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main | |||||||
7 | ★★ Førstereisgutten - with Kjetil | 95m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice climbing. The crux protects well with small wires (or black totem). A great option for busy days at Gandalf
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Mon 28th Sep 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Demonstranten | |||||||
5+ | Demon Rib - with Fanny | Don't Bother | |||||
5 | Demonstranten direkte - with Fanny | Average | |||||
Sat 26th Sep 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Vestvågøy Stamsund | |||||||
5 | Big Belly Route - with Fanny | Don't Bother | |||||
The lower off runs over sharp edges & eats rope. Not recommended
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6b | ★ Shakalaka bunker - with Fanny | 18m | Average | ||||
6c+ | ★★ Ruta #16 - with Fanny | ★ Good | |||||
5 | Foxy Lady - with Fanny | Average | |||||
5 | Rock and roll slide - with Fanny | Average | |||||
5 | ★ Lemon squeezy - with Fanny | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Fri 28th Aug 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kabelvåg- området Finnvika | |||||||
6a | Not Known - with Vegard With Stennes | 10m | Average | ||||
6a+ | ★ Tante Bente - with Vegard With Stennes | 10m | Average | ||||
6a | ★★★ Oves kvalbiff - with Vegard With Stennes | 10m | ★ Good | ||||
Thu 27th Aug 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken Svenskeveggen | |||||||
7 | ★★★ Snickar glädje - with Karl Olof Hallberg | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
With a pre-placed piece. Great route
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Tue 25th Aug 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Festvåg Lille Festvåg | |||||||
6+ Easy | ★★★ Blod eller gull - with Vegard With Stennes | 95m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
A dihedral, roof, OW & some face climbing. Topo says 6+, description says 6 in the guidebook. Either way, crux is short & well protected & there´s lots of nice movement on this one.
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Thu 20th Aug 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken Maurpillaren | |||||||
6+ | ★★ Ingen sommerferie - with Fanny | 72m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Thu 20th Aug 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken | |||||||
5+ | ★★ Pianohandler Lunds drøm - with Fanny | 80m | ★ Good | ||||
Thu 6th Aug 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kabelvåg- området Sandvika Skårungen | |||||||
5 | ★ Skårungens Dans | ★ Good | |||||
Sat 25th Jul 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Gandalf Silmarillion Wall | |||||||
7 | ★★★ Silmarillion | 170m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Wed 22nd Jul 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken Sørfjellet | |||||||
5+ | ★ Luke Skywalker - with Fanny | 65m | Average | ||||
Squeezed in something new between the rain. Wouldn´t go back
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Mon 20th Jul 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main | |||||||
6 ~6- | ★★★ Tromsø ekspressen - with Johanne Regine Gustavsen, Sam | 95m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
P2/P3 can be linked by stretching a 60m. Easier than the neighbouring Gamle rev (perhaps easiest 6 in Lofoten?)
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Mon 13th Jul 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Moksnesøya Kirkefjorden Helvetestinden | |||||||
6+ | ★★ The Next Best Thing - with Fanny, Karl Olof Hallberg | 380m | ★ Good | ||||
Most people I´ve chatted with seem to enjoy this route. I thought it was total shit. I guess some sections of the lower pitches are nice?
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Sat 11th Jul 2020 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Trolldalen Trollfestningen | |||||||
6- | ★★★ Fingerrisset - with Fanny, Karl Olof Hallberg | 50m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
A fun bonus pitch when your already up there. Lower-off´s a nest of fixed nuts (good slings w/ quicklink)
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