Ascensões em Oceania por David Jefferson

Cleansing the palate with low hanging fruits. 🍒

Warm up.

Weak as piss on this one today.

Warm up.

Went up to have a play and figured a few things out. Could be a contender for a winter project.

Played around with several different ways of doing the crux, but all feel equally hard for me. Couldn’t actually connect the move today. Would love a beta lifeline for this one!

Would rate this route as “don’t bother” if it weren’t for the upper headwall section, which is almost decent.

Another one hang, just not quite matching the crux hold. Remarkably still dry!

Warm up.

Trickier than expected, good fun.

Quintessential pocket pulling! I really enjoyed this one, and the sunset provided a memorable backdrop.

Couldn’t find the right pockets on the onsight attempt so fell at the first bolt. Lowered and then sent to the top. Quite bouldery, with everything past the first bolt being several grades easier. Still a lot of fun though!

The layback tufa is super unique, so I’ll give it 3 stars. Felt pretty easy for the grade, but maybe just suited me.

Lovely warm up.

Setting up TR for 31 weeks pregnant partner.

Came very close to sending second go, but fell after the main crux. One hang. Would be keen to come back for it.

Pleasant, exposed, and somewhat pumpy.

Fell off the start first go, lowered and went to the top. Chossy down low, but fun through the overhang.

Pretty cruxy for a warm up.

Took a few goes to make the feet work, but got there in the end. Actually rather fun in a manufactured rock kind of way.

Very cryptic boulder problem that I came relatively close to solving, but alas, time was short. Reminiscent of Steaming Wally at Kangaroo Point, the other dingy urban quarry crag I’m familiar with.

One hang x3. Beta will be to avoid all rests and motor on through.

Warm up.

Crux feels different traversing in from Bolts. Was planning to get on Trog but it was wet and now I’m inclined to tick this one first.

First time repeating Gorilla in yonks. Such a fun route.

Warm up.

Warm up.

Quite a nice linkup actually, and harder than Gorilla alone given that it also passes the crux of Rubble. Possibly 28 but easier than She Devil in its current state, so who knows? Either way, good training for Trog!

First go of the day, just needed to remember the for sequence to get through the roof. Felt almost as hard as Bogus to me, although the style is quite different.

Warm up.

Something fun to play on between projects and to re-learn the top of Gorilla in preparation for Trog.

Felt hard in the sweaty conditions. But maybe I just suck at pockets.

This was a big nope for me in the sun today. Wow, I am weak on pockets.

Felt quite a bit easier than Bête Noir, but still quite good.

Love the committing throw to the lip, definitely a leap of faith for me!

How good is this route!

Slab to roof to steep headwall. What a banger!

Nemesis status confirmed.

Warm up.

High point, punted off just below the anchor. Frustrating, but I think I may have sorted better beta for the top. Becoming a bit of a nemesis!

Warm up.

Repeat.

Yes, it’s another silly link up, but what else am I going to do here?

Warm up and warm down.

Warm up and warm down.

Punted above the last bolt FML! Completely changed the beta for the top but by the 3rd attempt I was already too gassed. Taking a lot longer than expected to get this one done.

Warm up.

Climbed through the crux twice only to punt off the top due to poor footwork. Trickier than expected to keep it together above the roof on red point. Still, very close!

Warm up.

1 hang x3, twice latched the crux slot but couldn’t quite hold it. Sorted out better foot beta to make the throw. Should have a good chance next session.

Warm up.

New project, first day on, already down to one hang! Won’t be a giveaway, but hopefully it’ll go down relatively quickly.

Warm up.

A dream come true! Started the day with zero expectations after feeling a bit of elbow tendinitis flare up, almost didn’t have a final burn as I needed to rush home to the family, then all of a sudden I was clipping the chains! Shifting to the left knee bar at the second rest was a game changer as I could actually recover properly before the back to back cruxes at the end. Beyond stoked to have completed this milestone in my NZ climbing career!

My new preferred warm up.