Grade | Via | Estilo de equipamento | Popularidade | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Flying Blind Area | |||||
14 | Gone Troppo
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Michael Wust, 1983 | 18m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Barc Cliff | |||||
14 | ★ Sornee
9.5m right of Gettin' Hungry | 21m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Fechado Gun Buttress | |||||
14 | Buckshot
More un-inspirational stuff. Start: Start 5m right of 'Black Powder'. FA: Peter Lindorff & Kevin Lindorff, 1985 | 25m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Amnesty Wall Area Orange Blossom Wall | |||||
14 | ★ Swiss Cheese
| 47m | |||
14 R | Multiplication
Runout slab climbing. Start: Start as for 'The Pregnancy Factor', but follow the flake for 2m more past the dark rock then straight up on good turtle shell rock just to the left of the BR on 'The Pregnancy Factor'. FA: James & Melanie McIntosh, 1992 | 40m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Unknown Problems (to be sorted) | |||||
V0- | ★★ 46 V? up pockets trend L & up or R from Pockets
| ||||
VB- - 10 | Unknown/Unticked - to delete
FA: Gav Portier/ Gilli Helbig | ||||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Expedition Crag | |||||
14 | Uncertainty Principle
| 12m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Sandinista Cliffs White Wall Area | |||||
14 | Sunset Strip
Up to overhang, swing energetically out left and straight up smooth grey wall above. Walk off upwards. Start: From the start of 'Sunset Boulevard', walk right, along the sloping ledge for 9m to semi hanging belay below first break in overhang. FA: Noel Whiteside, Keith Lockwood & Kieran Loughran, 2001 | 20m | |||
14 | Royal Parade
Nice rock but not very sustained. Start: The next break to the right of 'Sunset Strip'. FA: Keith Lockwood, Noel Whiteside & Kieran Loughran, 2001 | 20m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) A-Frame Boulders | |||||
14 | Paragon
Quite Good. Start below the left side of the cave. Up the left edge of the smooth rock, then trend left to finish up the obvious diagonal crack. FA: Mike Wust & James McIntosh, 1998 | 30m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Iskra Crag Western Crags Flower Power Block | |||||
14 | ★ Cornflake
Because it‘s good in the morning? The flake towards the right end of the yellow face. Climb the flake then mantle shelf to gain the corner. Up this to the top. FA: 1989 | 15m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Iskra Crag Western Crags Sunstroke Area | |||||
14 | Boys Of Summer
Prominent nose at the very L end of the crag. Up the face and through the bulge at the top. FA: 1986 | 18m | |||
14 | ★ Bums Rush
Most attractive line on the crag - vertical crack / seam 1m R of Coccyx Corner. FA: 1985 | 18m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Iskra Crag Western Crags Pigs in Space Buttress | |||||
14 | Cheval
A few m L of Quantum Sufficit is small black hole in the rock. Start 1m R of this and go straight up to the ledge. Climb the overhang at the arete and up. FA: 1985 | 18m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Iskra Crag Emu Crag | |||||
14 | Wild Goose Chase
| 16m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians NE Mt Zero Range Golton Rocks The NEW | |||||
14 | Diminutive
Start: The nice arête at the left hand end of this cliff. FA: Derek Vissor, Ann Vissor, Peter Cunningham & Glen Donohue, 1989 | 12m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians NE Mt Zero Range Golton Rocks Watchmen Wall | |||||
14 | Silk Spectre
Up face Start: start just left of "In a Galitsky Far Far Away" FA: Michael O'Brien & Josef Goding, 2009 | 18m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians NE Mt Zero Range Gog-Magog Crag | |||||
14 | Parva Corner
| 10m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians NE Mt Zero Range Coppermine Track Cliff | |||||
14 | Ok Tedi
Gains the corner 6m left of Copralites.
FA: Philip Armstrong & Chris Armstrong, 2003 | 30m, 2 | |||
14 | Bent Copper
Start: About 40m left of 'Ok Tedi' locate a short clean-cut right facing corner about 15m up the cliff. Start in the bushy chimney/gully below this. Cairned.
FA: Philip Armstrong & Jeremy Maddox, 2003 | 35m, 2 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians The Rockwall Area The Rockwall | |||||
14 | ★ Treason
| 25m | |||
14 | ★ Saviours of Somalia
| 25m | |||
14 | Megalomania
| 75m | |||
14 | Cheeky Megatron Man
| 50m | |||
14 | The Mechanical Donkey
| 35m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians North-West Mt Difficult Range Troopers Creek Cliff | |||||
14 | Gibbon's Run
Approximately 40m left of Spectre is a left-ward rising ramp.
FA: Mike Wust & Kevin Lindorff (alternate leads), 1999 | 65m, 2 | |||
14 M6 X | Nail Away
The MAJOR line 8m left of 'Spectre'. Incomplete aid scarefest (of choss) and not recommended. Full aid rack required including hooks, pitons - anything goes.
FA: Neil Monteith (aid solo), 2008 | 32m, 2, 1 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians North-West Mt Difficult Range Mt Difficult Cliff | |||||
14 | ★★ Dreaming Arete
| 82m | |||
14 | ★★ Dreaming Arete Direct
| 67m | |||
14 | Sweet Thing
Climbs fragile face between Beeline and Bumble Variant. Climb wall almost anywhere until roof, which is taken at the obvious notch. Continue directly past blank bit to a good ledge. Abseil off horn. FA: James Falla, Debbie Sweet & Jon Bassindale, 1999 | 45m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians North-West Mt Difficult Range Epaminondas Buttress | |||||
14 | ★ Brandywine
This description is a slight variation on the original route, but done this way the second pitch is longer and even better. Start: Brandywine, Withywindle and Inner Votion are all in a small amphitheatre up R of Imagination [see photo above]. Scramble up immediately R of Imagination staying on the L until level with a bushy ledge. At the far RH side of the bushy ledge is a steep chimney [Brandywine]. Some people may wish to rope up for this this approach. From the top of these climbs [and Imagination] it is possible to scramble down to the L, eventually descending underneath the big recent rockfall to reach the descent track in the gully. The steep corner chimney at the RH end of the ledge.
FA: Rod Young & Philip Armstrong [alts], 1976 | 50m, 2 | |||
14 | ★★ Monkey Man
A classic middle grade adventure. A lot of people get lost on the top pitch of this route. This is odd as at the top of this buttress there are two pronounced corner lines. 'Rum Truffle' finishes up the R hand one and MM the L hand. That's all you really need to know. Both of these corners are R of a large bottomless chimney [MM variant finish]. The only tricky aspect is that MM accesses the LH corner via an easier crack on the arete a few meters R of the foot of the main LH corner rather than climbing directly into the line [see photo below]. Start: Drop down from 'Epaminondas' and head around to the next major buttress. Starts at the back of the scrubby bay between the 'Epaminondas' buttress and this next buttress [the 'Rum Truffle' Buttress].
FA: Steve Craddock, Andrew Moore & Greg Lovejoy [alts], 1989 | 90m, 3 | |||
14 | Monkey Man variant
Climbed numerous times by people lost looking for the top pitch of MM. This chimney is a prominent feature several meters L of the two corners of MM and RT. Written up at least once. Start: At top of Pitch 2 of MM move 3m R instead of 8m to belay below bottomless chimney. Up short steep wall to chimney. Up this. VCC Mt Difficult update has FA as Michael Giacometti, John Maher. 05.03 FA: Unknown, 2000 | 25m | |||
14 | ★ Rum Truffle
Some quite good climbing, however the unprotected start to the fourth pitch rather detracts from the experience. Start: The front of the buttress R of the MM bay. Around R of TSOTH. Just R of a prominent pair of roofs low down on the front of the buttress.
FA: Peter Watling & Bill Andrews [var], 1975 | 97m, 5 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians North-West Mt Difficult Range Carter's Col | |||||
14 | Haddock's Revenge
5-10mins right of the B. Desh Memorial Buttress is an outcrop with some overhangs. Start at the main corner at the right end. Climb onto the undercut arete on the left and head up and right into the line. Keep left to avoid vegetation until it’s possible to climb the final corner. FA: Kieran Loughran & Keith Lockwood, 1993 | 18m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Briggs Bluff Area Pacific Ocean Wall | |||||
14 | Ghandi
A big boulder 50m out form the cliff marks the start of the climb. The crack line. | 130m | |||
14 | Wacko Jacko
Start 15 to the right of the distictive waterfall on the most prominent part of the face.
FFA: Martin Jackson & Ben Jackson, 2011 | 110m, 3, 4 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Briggs Bluff Area Briggs Bluff Briggs Bluff Back Wall | |||||
14 | Autumn Walking
Start at the left side of the left most of four caves. Pull onto wall, up to head wall, up right along its base to chossy chimney. Up flake in left wall FA: James McIntosh & Melanie McIntosh, 2004 | 20m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Briggs Bluff Area Briggs Bluff | |||||
14 | In Loo
| 110m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Briggs Bluff Area Deep Creek Walls | |||||
14 | Hammerhead
| 40m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Eastern Mt Difficult Range Wildebeest Creek Cliff Lower | |||||
14 | Seamless
Start as for Mithridates. Up, then step R to follow the right wall of the seam to the steeper headwall, up this on fragile jugs finishing up L. FA: Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong, 11 Dec 2014 | 25m | |||
14 | Pinnacle
From behind the Pickett’s Charge block head uphill and L 80m to a pinnacle with a L curving crack. Up the steep juggy crack exiting L. FA: Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong, 13 Mar 2015 | 10m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Eastern Mt Difficult Range No Mans Land | |||||
14 | Isis
This has lovely climbing, and is easier than it looks. Start at the small pinnacle immediately right of The Girl Of My Dreams.
FA: Chris Baxter, Pia Larque & Wayne Maher, 2008 | 50m, 2 | |||
14 | Old Tech
On the right side of the cliff, to the right of a cave low down, is a short right-facing orange corner below some steepenings. Climb the right side of the corner and then step left below the steepenings. Head up and left to finish up the wall above. FA: Derek Visser & Wayne Maher, 1994 | 45m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Eastern Mt Difficult Range Heatherlie Heights | |||||
14 | The War's Just Beginning
Good climbing on both pitches. Start at the toe of the black slab about 15m right of Blue Sky Mining.
FA: Chris Baxter & David Gairns (alt), 2001 | 55m, 2 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Eastern Mt Difficult Range Syria | |||||
14 | Umayyad
Starting at the LH edge of the main block is a big diagonal fault line which crosses the entire main buttress. Start at the foot of this
FA: Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody [alts], 27 Sep 2014 | 40m, 2 | |||
14 | ★ Terror Alert
FA: Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong, 13 Sep 2014 | 36m, 2 | |||
14 | ★ Damascus
Very nice first pitch.
FA: Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody, 13 Sep 2014 | 35m, 2 | |||
14 | Iskenderun
R of the main lower slab of the cliff is a black slab. Start 2m L of the blocky corner on its R.
FA: Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong, 18 Oct 2014 | 35m, 2 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Eastern Mt Difficult Range Lebanon Lebanon Main Slabs | |||||
14 | Roadblock To Peace
Takes the L arete of the square cut corner with an energetic pull around the roof. Traverse R [roped] to abseil as for JJ or L to abseil from trees. FA: Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody, 2007 | 30m | |||
14 | The Casual Jihad
Line on R edge of buttress trending L ward to join Shatila. Finish up this. Some suspect rock. Descend as for Shatila. FA: Peter Cody, Philip Armstrong & Jerry Maddox, 2007 | 30m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Eastern Mt Difficult Range The Promised Land | |||||
14 | Snugglepot and Cuddlepie
This route as described seems to be a bit contrived. Up for 5m from RH end of black slab with large gum tree half way up, then step across offwidth. Up to roof then L to gum. Off width to bush then exit L across slab [no pro] to belay as for JL etc. You can just climb the wide crack at the R edge of the slab direct at about grade 12. FA: Marthij Heupermanand party, 1995 | 50m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Eastern Mt Difficult Range Lunar Walls | |||||
14 | Blinded By The Moon
Buttress about 20m right of Moonee Ponds has a hanging corner on its front. Up to and up corner. FA: Jeremy Maddox & John Bohills, 2006 | 20m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Eastern Mt Difficult Range Lichen Land | |||||
14 | Waugh Hero
Clean and pleasant face, cairned. Climbed on the day that Steve Waugh completed the innings of his record-equalling test century. There is a clean and attractive face below CZ. WH Climbs the blunt right arête of this. FA: Chris Baxter & Steve Hamilton, 2003 | 17m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Eastern Mt Difficult Range Breakfast Room Buttresses | |||||
14 | The Black Fingernail
Centre of face around right of Upstanding. FA: Philip Armstrong, Christopher Armstrong & Jerry Maddox, 2006 | 25m | |||
14 | Single Entendre
Front of clean slabby buttress right of Carry On Regardless. Exit left before the dirty rock. FA: Philip Armstrong, Christopher Armstrong & Jerry Maddox, 2006 | 20m | |||
14 | Above The Law
Attractive rib leading to the highest point of the cliff. Up right of the buttress with The Garden of Tears et al is a huge landmark red roof/cave. Climb the crack starting below and just left of this. Where it thins to incipient and curves left at 18m, step left, then go straight up middle of buttress. FA: Chris Baxter & Stephen Hamilton, 2003 | 50m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Eastern Mt Difficult Range Currajong Rocks | |||||
14 | Gone For All Money
Right of LD is a broad descent gully. Right of this is a face with three cracks. Climb middle one until it peters out. Step right, then up. FA: Chris Baxter, David Gairns & Stephen Hamilton, 2002 | 20m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Eastern Mt Difficult Range The Heavens | |||||
14 | Poor Kim
| 20m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Eastern Mt Difficult Range The Tim Tams | |||||
14 | Bower Bird
Climb the corner and hand-crack at the left side of the grey wall under the summit. FA: James McIntosh, Melanie McIntosh, Mike Wust, Jeremy Boreham & Hillary Lloyd, 1993 | 18m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Asses Ears Area Asses Ears Main Face | |||||
14 | Brighton Beach
Chossy for a Grampians route. New South Wales climbers would call it classic. Starts 15m right of Rodger Over and Out on the vague arete opposite The Infinite Sadness. Weave your way through line of least resistance, taking care not to remove all the holds. FA: Chris Shepherd & Nez Watters, 1999 | 35m | |||
14 | ★★ Bullfrog
1
11
30m
2
?
20m
3
14
50m
The original route on the cliff. A classic corner. The final pitch is like an extended Resignation.
FFA: Keith Lockwood & Athol Fraser (var.), 1977 | 100m, 3 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Asses Ears Area Asses Ears Schroeders Cliff | |||||
14 | Schroeder
Start at the chimney flanking the left side of the impressive wall with bolts.
FA: Athol Fraser & Keith Lockwood, 1977 | 70m, 2 | |||
14 | Woof
Megaline. Good climbing. Start up S (which soon wanders off right). Continue up corner-chimney passing three big overhangs and through a hole behind the fourth. FA: Chris Baxter, Greg Aimer & Geoff Gledhill, 1996 | 40m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Asses Ears Area Sunset Crags Left Hand Crag | |||||
14 | Moving Hand Holds
| 44m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Asses Ears Area Sunset Crags Right Hand Crag | |||||
14 | Resolutions
| 25m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Asses Ears Area Cherub Wall | |||||
14 | ★ Mushroom
| 40m | |||
14 | Calvery Sun
| 42m | |||
14 | Metcon
| 20m | |||
14 | Wooden Lever
| 15m | |||
14 | Laminated Vision
| 20m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Asses Ears Area The Secret Crags The Secret Cliff | |||||
14 | Mind-Grind
| 20m | |||
14 | Annies Access
| 10m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Asses Ears Area The Secret Crags Hidden Wall | |||||
14 | Econobuyer Bites More Dust
| 40m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Asses Ears Area Brim Springs Main Crag | |||||
14 | Supernuts
| 80m | |||
14 | Mandrake
| 50m | |||
14 | Late Start
| 70m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians The Black Range Black Ian's Rocks | |||||
14 | Aiding and Abetting
Right angled corner. FA: Matilda Schmitt & Karen Allchin, 1988 | 10m | |||
14 | ★ Detective Inspector Bribe-easy And Police Constable Porno
Belay bolts service this climb, which are around 5 metres back from the top of First Offence. FA: Ant Keilig & david singleton | 10m | |||
14 | ★ Minor Offence
| 15m | |||
14 | ★ G.B.H.
"Interesting and thought provoking climbing up slabby rock. Start 3m right of horrible chimney at rightward curving crack. Move up and left to faint crack, follow this until it fades, then step right and up." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs) FFA: Keith Egerton, 1976 | 20m | |||
14 | ★ Habeus Corpus
"An interesting variant start to Bagatelle. Takes the low angled crack in the grey slab 5m left of Bagatelle before moving right and finishing as for that route." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs) FFA: Bob Connell, Keith Lockwood, Rein Kamar & Ben Sandilands, 1972 | 27m | |||
14 | Malicious Intent Variant Start
| 8m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians The Black Range Fechado Mt Talbot | |||||
14 | The Winds Of Change
| 20m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians The Black Range Black Range Road Outcrop | |||||
14 | Weight For Age Handicap
| 18m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians The Black Range Black Sheba's Buttress | |||||
14 | Malaria
| 25m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians The Black Range Fechado Burrunj North | |||||
14 | In Search Of Water
| 13m | |||
14 | My Legs Are Out Of Batteries
The central line (slab then crack) between Wigg Mistress and Lower Hawkesbury. FA: Wayne Maher (solo), 2000 | 12m | |||
14 | Lower Hawkesbury
| 10m | |||
14 | Mortality
| 20m | |||
14 | Dog-watch
| 15m | |||
14 | Brush Off
| 33m | |||
14 | Overhead Cam
| 30m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians The Black Range Fechado Burrunj South | |||||
14 M1 | Tom Foolery
| 20m, 2 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians The Black Range Black Blocks | |||||
14 | Back In The Black
| 20m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Central Grampians Epacris Cliffs Koori Country | |||||
14 | Mabo
Seam, then square groove 120m before end of cliff. FA: John Lamb, Mark Poustie & Gordon Talbett, 1993 | 30m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Central Grampians Epacris Cliffs Livingstone | |||||
14 | Voodoo Doll
At foot of right arête of On Safari (descent gully) is a great perched boulder. Climb wall 2m left of this, then steep line above. FA: John Pawson, Chris Baxter & Meg Taylor, 1993 | 30m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Central Grampians Epacris Cliffs Cliff Richard | |||||
14 | True Confessions
| 25m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians Central Grampians Epacris Cliffs Equinox Walls | |||||
14 | To the Manor Born
Grey, shallow corner starting out of right side of cave and 2m left of '586 BC'. Straight up wall, then black pimply wall. FA: Glenn Tempest (solo), 1993 | 25m |