Grade | Via | Estilo de equipamento | Popularidade | Local de escalada | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Boulder | |||||
V9 | ★★ Atlantis
| Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | |||
V9 | ★★★ Race Eater
As for 'Happy Camper' but keep traversing leftwards to join 'Butt Gravity' and finish up that problem. Crux is the big move to the 4-finger pocket (on 'Butt Gravity'). FA: Klem Loskot (flashed), 2000 | Mt Stapylton Campground | |||
V8 | ★★ Mavis
The same as 'Travis' except both slopey pinches must be held before gaining the edge. Contrived but good. | 4m | Forestville | ||
V8 | ★★★ Curvi-linear | Queens Park | |||
V8 | ...Infants
| Jessicca's | |||
V8 | ★★★ Flakey
Start on undercling under the roof as for Flaked and finish via Campuseis | Freycinet National Park | |||
V8 | ★ unkown eliminate
Starts on same sloper as V9 and V7. Pull on move towards the lip via small crimps to the right of jug of V7. This variation elimiates the jug used in the v7 and tops out via the headwall as V9. | 6m | Oatlands | ||
V8 X | ★★ MA Forever
Just like the visionary alpinist himself, Wild, bold and technical, on some of Donnellys best rock. Great featured corner and arete to navigate across and up. | 6m | Donnelly's Castle | ||
V9 | ★★★ Great Expectations
| Victoria Range | |||
V7/8 | ★★★ Pockets, Heels, Slopes - High
Sit start at the base of the slanted prow on good holds. This line diverges from 'Pockets, Heels, Slopes - Low' by coming out to the slopey lip early rather than staying under the cave. FA: Michael Taran, 2017 | 3m | Kalbarri | ||
V8 | ★★★ Cry Baby
Crouch start on the shelf. Head out the great underclings to move over the nose to the top. FA: Nick Cormack | 4m | Fishponds | ||
V8 | ★★★ The Ayes Have It
Stand start. Up using the arete and left face. Tenuous and smeary feet. Disconcertingly close to the drink... FA: Michael Taran, 31 Dec 2019 | 4m | Albany | ||
V8 | ★ Episto
Slopey edges and small footholds | Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | |||
V8 | ★★ Psycho Ant Farm
Sit start matched on poor side pull moving up left then pouncing up to incut crimps that start 'Angry Ant Farm' | 4m | Bouddi National Park | ||
V8 - 10 | Morricone
A great looking project starting all the way underneath and slightly to the left, almost in front of the small boulder. Some apposing pebbles and hard compression might get you into a nice looking pocket before trying to latch the pebble jug(stand start foot hold) and heading all the way up the arete. | Mt Lyell | |||
V8 | JB Rare
Another jump start. Beautiful and technical face. 4:30: https://vimeo.com/107798715 | Queanbeyan area | |||
V8 | ★★ Frank's Route Direct - Reverse Du Hast - Frank's Better Half - Frantic Finish
Start on Frank's Route, go directly to the shelf, reverse Hu Hast to the plate and finish with Frank's Better Half into the Frantic Finish. | 7m | The Airstrip | ||
V8 | Porn Star
Start on the lowest jug out left then traverse right through slopers and pockets to finish as per Dirk Diggler. Start: Sit FA: Matt Tait | 4m | The Balkans | ||
{US} V8 | Center Project
After a few holds exploded what is left is a brutal crimp start to get onto a few poor side clings then somehow make your way up the face. There's not so much holds on this as there are vague tiny scoops and indents in the rock. | 4m | Binalong | ||
V8 | Spanner
| 3m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V8 | ★★ Trackside traverse
Sit start just left of arete then traverse R) across face via some shouldery moves. | Arapiles | |||
V9 | ★★★ Mr Negative | 4m | Pierce's Creek | ||
V9 | ★★ The Alchemist
| Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | |||
V8 | ★★ Boomerang left
Stand start in the break. Follow the good slots, then left and up towards the jug shared with "Unemployed". Tension required! | Redgate Boulders | |||
V8 | ★★ Amber
Sit start on edges left of jade and up the blunt prow. Vidya https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fc8BgxuA6Rg FA: Stephen | Queanbeyan area | |||
V9 | ★★★ Bleach Belly
Nice compression problem on the left side of the limestone-looking boulder. FA: Ben Cossey, 26 Jun 2020 | 3m | Blue Mountains | ||
V9 | ★ Continuity
| Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | |||
V8 | ★ Direct Via Pockets
Hard variant to DVP on small pockets. Traverse right from the arete keeping your hands below the level of the jug on DVP and above the initials. FA: Doped Si | 4m | Wahroonga Rocks | ||
V8 | ★★★ Blinding Rage
Start as for Golden Age but escape left via big move to the slopey rail. Mantle as for Golden Age. FA: Callum Mather | 5m | North Wangetti | ||
V8 | ★★★ Pebbles' Canopysaurus
Sit start on lowest possible side-pull/undercling, pull through the start of Boxing Clever and up good holds into the throw of Yabba Dabba Doorect. FA: Zac Horstman, 7 May 2023 | Yabba Creek | |||
V8 | ★ The Soccer Ball
Sit start compressing face, make a big move up then mantle. FA: Joe Schwarz, 2024 | Mount Wellington | |||
V8 | Sloper Madness
| Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | |||
V9 | ★ The Crotty
Hard first and last move with a big throw from the underclings to finish. FA: Toni Lamprecht, 1999 | 5m | Nowra | ||
V9 | The Kindly Ones
Sit start and straight up to top out. FA: James Scarborough | Bungonia Gorge | |||
V8 | ★★★ The Curse
Start up Bill Smith, into Mr Smiley, into Foam and finish up Vitamin C or Vitamin X. | Forestville | |||
V8 | ★★ One in the Pink, Two in the Crimp
Stand start, two finger pocket and tiny crimp. Head left, arete is out. Top out however you can. FA: Jarred Jordan, Sep 2016 | 3m | Galston Gorge | ||
V9 | ★★ Breakfast Burger
Sit start far right on the obvious slopey edges. Traverse the crack left to an easy top out on the far left. Pumpy then two cruxes - a long span in the middle then a hard transition near the end with another long span. Bit abrasive. Alternatively traverse into the other potential exits! | Midgegoroo National Park | |||
V8 | Subtle Manipulation Sit
Add the sit-start, with the lower of the two left-hand sidepulls and a right-hand sidepull barely off the ground, for a tough, thin and sustained problem. FA: Steve Baskerville, 2003 | Harvey’s Marbles | |||
V8 | ★ Mann-Explaining
Sit start on lowest jug (same as for 'L'Homme Obu'). hit the triangle pinch skip the glued crimp on your way to the good edge then finish up Arms Race through the scoop. FA: Owen Davey | The Balkans | |||
V8 | ★★ Blood Moon Rising
On a bloc about 20m right of Starblazing. Sit start with good holds, into the mono and up to the lip, then up and over. Grade is approximate pending a few repeats. Probably 5 or 6. FA: D. Hughes, 29 May 2021 | 4m | Marsfield | ||
V8 | ★★ Abyssal
Start as for Snappy but immediately break left, following the seam to the arete through a set of small crimps and a big move. Roll over and top out up slab. FA: Callum Mather | Port Douglas | |||
V8 | The Half Baked Hooligan | Elephant Rocks Bouldering | |||
V9 | El Señor de los Cielos
Start as for Business as Usual, head left through the starting jug of Rocket Man to top out as for Arms Race | The Balkans | |||
V9 | ★★ The Mega Warped Wall
A contrived mega dyno for those who want an extra challenge, For this one it’s the same as The Warped Wall but this time considerably harder as the side pull is out for the start. Go straight to the jug. Feel free to use the sloper to top out once you’ve sent the epic first move. Once again top out if you want. Adds nothing but is really really satisfying FA: Liam Daniel, 28 Apr | 7m | Passchendaele State Forest | ||
V8 | ★★★ Wazzup
FA: Steve Conn | 3m | The Airstrip | ||
V9 | ★ Muy Forte Left - hard eliminate
Start as for Muy Forte, then stay low to move straight left to the big jug and up to finish as for Percival The Feisty Mouse (eliminates the right hand slot on the standard Muy Forte). FA: Chris Warner | 4m | Queanbeyan area | ||
V9 | ★★ Swallows and Amazons
Stand start with left hand in the open corner and right hand on a low crimp. Punch up for better holds on the arete with the right hand, then technical moves allow a crimp on the front face to be got with the left hand. Carry on directly up the face/arete (still tricky). A fantastic climb. FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2014 | Mt Alexander | |||
V9 | ★★★ The Rad Koala
Climb V8 version of the Radness (V8 if you do big foot/V7 version of TR) until R hand on finish jug. Technical sequence right to join Koala at the seam. Finish up that lines crux. Fairly long problem. | Camels Hump | |||
V8 | Jesse James
| Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | |||
V8 | ★★★ Walking In The Sky
Located on right wall as you enter area (look for obvious chalky hueco). Sit start with under cling and small edge, move into the hueco and good edge then head straight up to mantel and finish standing over the lip (you can top out if you want, but its pretty overgrown and add nothing to the grade or quality). Awesome tension moves on good holds and rock. | 3m | Mt May | ||
V9 | ★★ Drunken Master
Stand start approx. 2 metres or so right of the short left hand arête. A funky series of moves left to gain the arête before finishing on a jug where the arête ends. FA: Simon Stevens | 3m | Kentlyn | ||
V9 | ★★ First Blood
| Jardines | |||
V9 | ★★★ Suspension of Disbelief
Stand start matched in the lowest left jug in the break, traverse left to some committing moves around the arête then fight the small bulge to gain the jug topout. A must do. FA: Yossi Sundakov-Krumins, 20 Aug 2021 | 6m | McCarrs Creek | ||
V9/10 | ★★ Raw Ruthenium
The exstention to 'Raw Iron' start as per 'Mr Olympia' and finish 'Raw Toast' | Turakirae Head | |||
V8 | ★ Above the Horizontal
Start on the big jug and make a big move left to a tiny edge. | Killara | |||
V8 | ★★ White magic
Anorexic finishing on the start hold of Black Magic | 4m | Killarney Heights | ||
V8 | ★★★ Pythagoras
| Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | |||
V9 | ★★★ Butthole Surfer
Low roof starting with a sit-start on a terrace and heading directly out to the lip and up overhanging face. FA: Klem Loskot, 1999 | Mt Stapylton Campground | |||
V8 | ★★★ Disadent
Hard campus through the slopers at the end. | 4m | Umina | ||
V8 | ★★★ Bursting
Link 'Mike's Five' into 'Burst'. Tough but good. Jug in the break is out. 🚫 Originally done as a 'no heels' problem. FA: Peter Balint, 1995 | Forestville | |||
V9 | ★★ Arête Problem
A square cut arête 80m right of 'The Whorl'. Surely someone has done the crack. FA: joe, 2000 | Bangor West | |||
V8 | ★ Überclinger
| 3m | Freycinet National Park | ||
V8 | ★ The Seamless Unspeakably Something
Hard moves through the seam grants you with a huge jug. Tough on the feet and fingers. Just plain tough. | Donnelly's Castle | |||
V8 | Fight the Power
Sit start then up edges to vague traverse line then traverse left across edges and slopes to left hand topout | Victoria Range | |||
V8 | ★★★ Conspirators
Sit start on obvious inward facing rail on the right on the cave. Climb up good holds to a hard move through the crimps to gain the undercling jug. So good. the flat jug on the left (obvious crack dividing it from the roof forming a jug) is out, using it nets you V4 https://youtu.be/TjXbWMluEkM?t=210 FA: Andy Lampard, 2016 | 3m | Kalbarri | ||
V7/8 | ★★ From Within
The extension to Intuition. Start ~2m underneath roof with good undercut edges above the freestanding boulder below. Using this boulder for feet, move through series of edges on roof to gain the sloping lip. Traverse L through crux into -and finish - as for Intuition. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 20 Sep 2018 | 3m | Barron Gorge | ||
V8/9 | ★★★ Solid Gold
Gold Coasts hardest open project boulder problem that exists so far. The sit start to “The Golden Hour”. Adds a number of extremely difficult long moves. The top out is v4- do it for the full tick. | North Burleigh Bouldering | |||
V8 | ★ The Final Cut
| Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | |||
V7/8 | ★★ Analysis Paralysis
Start matched on the side pulls. Move through underclings and a sloper trending left towards the jug and top out. FA: Tom Hodgson | Bouddi National Park | |||
V8 | ★★ Freak Out Low
Start as per Pro Series and finish up Freak Out. FA: Tomoya Kumugawa, 2011 | 5m | Turakirae Head | ||
V7/8 | ★★ Check Your Head - Reverse Du Hast - Leon's Finish
Climb Check Your Head, Reverse Du Hast and finish with the Leon's Line mantle. | 5m | The Airstrip | ||
V8 | ★★ I Just Wanna Go Swimming!
Desperate and technical slab/wall bouldering. Climb up through the window without using the big features on either side. Middle of the Eastern wall on the North Boulder | Palm Beach Boulders | |||
V8 | Persistence Resistance
The same as love jugs, except keep going out on similar line and top out. FA: Jason Piper, 2006 | 11m | Umina | ||
V8 | ★ Police Brutality
| Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | |||
V8 | ★★ Finalgon Centre Direct
Great sit start half way across Finalgon and direct through underclings and small crimp to top out in same line. | Arapiles | |||
V8 | ★★★ Everyone but Ben
Stand start and straight up to the press out mantle. A great technical line that gets progressively harder to an easyish mantle. FA: Michael Tonon, 11 Jul 2020 | 5m | Koolewong | ||
V9 | 1 Fidel Castro
| Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | |||
V8 | ★★★ BFG
| 5m | Halls Gap Area | ||
V8 | ★★ Procrastination Pays
Sit start on the arete right of It Hurts, up the left face and arete. FA: Stephen | Queanbeyan area | |||
V8/9 | ★★ Left side Proj
Sit start as for NC on the left side looking out of the cave. Blast along the lip on the left to a stopper Steep Crux. Top out on buckets above next to the small tree. The only line that can escape the cave | White Rock Conservation Area | |||
V8 | ★ Simple thing
Thin edges. | Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | |||
V7/8 | ★ A Hobbits Tale
Contrived there-and-back line, but cool bit of pump and some rad moves. Start as for 'One Day After Work' traverse all the way to the sit start holds of 'Justins Line' and then reverse the traverse all the way back as for 'Before Work Sessions' and finish where you started. Pumpy as. FA: Michael Taran, 3 Oct 2021 | 10m | Albany | ||
V9 | ★★ Syncope
Start from obvious jug. Right hand to crimp and Left hand to side-pull pocket to finish at break. | 2m | Nowra | ||
V8 | ★★ Fish Fingers
Left hand in the right hand pocket of Fish Food, right hand on the small 2 finger pocket further right. Deadpoint/dyno up and left to the good jugs. 7 or 8 maybe? FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, 13 May 2023 | 2m | Dead Mans Wall | ||
V8 | ★★ Hulk Smash Variant
As for Hulk Smash but finish up MOTFA | Hogan Boulder Arrowtown | |||
V8 | ★★ Pandamonium
| Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | |||
V9 | The Gift
| Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | |||
30 | Zillmerised
Climb the arete below the Sneakeasy ledge. FA: Roland Foster (solo), 1993 | 6m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ||
V9 | ★★★ I Want To Be A Pumper
Stand start on 2 crimps for a big RH throw to a sloping hold. Then LH out left to sharp hold and again a big move with the RH around the bulge to finish. FA: Joe Hodgson, 2000 | 4m | Nowra | ||
V8 | ★★★ Remember to Forget
The middle/left line on “Superhard wall” from the big slopey pocket straight up. The tiny crux crimp has been broken and reformed multiple times. | 5m | White Rock Conservation Area | ||
V8 | Crimper In The Corner
Sit start and up left to top out by stepping onto the boulder on the left when you get to the top of the face. FA: Al Pryce | Bungonia Gorge | |||
V8 | ★★★ Low Down Boogie
"Low Down Boogie (Eliminate)" with the 'Sloper-Dan Milosevic' finish. | 5m | The Balkans | ||
V8 | ★ Scotch and Pingas
Sit start on crimps, head straight up, then move up the rail to mantle top out. | 3m | Galston Gorge | ||
V9 | ★★ Gold Member
Crouch start on the small pockets under the roof, big move up to the crimps on the lip. Finish as for Goldie Horn. | 4m | Umina | ||
V8 | ★★★ Kaffir
| Harvey’s Marbles | |||
V8 | ★★★ Beige is All The Rage
Stand start under roof. Using underling pockets to start, move through lip and up the face. FA: Simon Weill | 3m | Halls Gap Area | ||
V8/9 | No Respect
A fun variant. Start matched on the same undercling rail as Fight Club but with feet toehooking the next jug. FA: Peter Jeavons, 2 Aug 2018 | The Den | |||
V8 | ★ Acid Roof
| Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | |||
V8 | ★★ Spunk
Start up Pumprocker for a few moves, then head straight left reversing the crimp crux of Nirvana, and finish up the big undercling move of Renegades. FA: 4 Nov 2021 | 6m | Rat's Crag | ||
V8/9 | ★★★ The Bifrost
This tall proud line is not for the faint of heart. Difficult first move on small rail and then big moves between slopey rails, to a delicate dead point to half moon scoop. From here you change gears, moving left to delicate crimping and footwork for a few committing moves before a nice top out. Good landing but bring plenty of pads, and rope. Very easy to rope but need a rope protector as the top is quite sharp. FA: Tyrone Clements, 20 Aug 2022 | 8m | Belrose |