Vias como ice em Romania

General: Icefall near Zugreni cabin, on the right bank of the Bistrita River valley. 2km hike from the first bridge downstream (at first, easy, mellow terrain through coniferous forest, on animal paths, then increasingly difficult terrain, with a high risk of falling in the river, finishing with a short rappel near the waterfall), or, in very cold winters, 5 minutes approach by crossing the frozen river.

Access: Cross the Bistrita River at the first bridge downstream and follow the visible forestry road back towards the icefall for about 500m, go past some houses, then leave it and ascend in the coniferous forest on the left side, and follow one of the animal paths that maintains the same elevation. Follow the desired path until you reach the last cliff before the icefall and abseil for around 15m to get to the left side of the base of the waterfall. Take extra care when nearing the end of the path, as there is a high risk of falling and the terrain is very exposed.

Cautions: Although only 30m in height, due to the often brittle nature of the crystalline schist bedrock, as well as the fact that its ledges create a big overhang, the ice can be quite thin and brittle, chandeliered, with very few opportunities for placing screws (although past years have seen the formation of much more compact and thick ice).

Additional information: Conversely, top rope can also be set, on some of the trees above the icefall, but this requires a tremendous detour and descent into the stream way upstream, as the terrain is quite steep and it might involve either a solo on grade 4 terrain, or as stated above, a very big detour and a series of rappels.

Icefall near the city of Piatra Neamt, on the Blagei stream valley. 15min drive and 15min hike, in Doamna Village.

After the Doamna monastery, follow the road to the last bus station, where you can park your car. Cross the Doamna river and follow the visible forestry road back towards the monastery for about 500m, then follow it up and to the left for another 100m. At this point, a narrow trail should be visible to the right, descending a bit into the Blagei stream valley. Follow it and you should reach the waterfall in 5min.

Take care when climbing it, although only 18m in height, due to the sedimentary nature of the bedrock, as well as the fact that its ledges create a big overhang, the ice can be quite thin and brittle, chandeliered, with very few opportunities for placing screws.

Conversely, top rope can also be set, on some of the trees above the icefall, but this requires a tremendous detour and descent into the stream way upstream, as the terrain is quite steep.

"El Diablo", is a route where you have to go far beyond your own mental barriers. Here I understood even more that force and power do absolutely nothing without control.

When I first entered the route, I had a strange feeling that the route was something far ahead of the overall level in the country. The route line is not a typical one, clear, where you can or can't.

It's scary, with small sockets, overhanged, and with fairly large distances between moves and bolts.

http://avalansh.blogspot.com/2022/02/illusion-d10-si-el-diablo-d10.html

I started the study of the "Illusion" route alone, still a project, bolted not long ago.

A route that gave me a few hassles in finding the best solution to cover it. I will not detail every step of the route, but I can tell you that it is a route that requires strength, combined with technique. I climbed the route from a few tries and as a grade it is an elegant D10.

http://avalansh.blogspot.com/2022/02/illusion-d10-si-el-diablo-d10.html

Start on the crack rather than the 'biscuit' to the right, it sounds hollow

3 chipped holds (2 large round ones under the overhang lip and 1 small foothold at the start)- part of the support system for a cable that used to cross the area.

Mixed line to the right of the main "Pump Track" route. Accessing it can be done when reaching the opening of the gully that starts at the first pitch of "Pump Track". On the right side, a secondary, smaller gully, with several fallen trees on it, as well as big boulders jammed in it, will lead you to the right of the route, in a densely forested area. Following the edge of the single visible cliff, to the left, for 2om will lead you to the base of the route.

This second route in the sector is ideal for those who wish to experience mixed climbing for the first time, as both its terrain and corresponding difficulty make it accessible to most average level climbers.

There is no fixed protection in-situ.

The route consists of two pitches:

P1: 35m of a mixture between water ice and a variety of features, enveloping on a large dihedral featuring multiple secondary cracks and ledges. Possibly WI3 and M4. Depending on the conditions, this entire pitch can be climbed using only screws on blobs of ice or sections that are more solidly attached. Having cams and nuts can be helpful, as the numerous cracks and features can accept such gear. Belay at the first solid pine tree, 11-o'clock from the route's direction;

P2: 25m of relatively easy water ice, possibly WI3, on slabby terrain, up to the edge of the forest above, Belay on a tree at your convenience.

The described route characteristics apply to the conditions on the 14th of January 2021. The aspect, quality, and abundance of ice can vary considerably from year to year, therefore shifting the difficulty and extending or shortening the length of the actual mixed climbing section, or making the protection poor and the exit run-out.

Easy water ice on the right side of the gully that runs down from the main "Pump Track" route. Visible at the point where the main path meets the gully.

Easy water ice that starts right from the road. This stream is secondary to the main gully on the left.

There is no fixed protection in-situ.

The route features two pitches:

P1: 55m, starting with a short vertical section, then following up with a gentle ramp featuring thin ice. Possibly WI3. Care must be taken on the slabby part, as most times the ice is covered in snow and due to its shallow thickness mandates a serious run-out, which although happens on easy terrain, it's still dangerous. Belay on a tree to the left.

P2: 25m of pure water ice, following a small gully that features thick, abundant ice. Possibly WI3. Belay on a tree at your convenience.

The described route characteristics apply to the conditions on the 02nd of March 2019. The aspect, quality, and abundance of ice can vary considerably from year to year, therefore shifting the difficulty and extending or shortening the length of the actual mixed climbing section, or making the protection poor and the exit run-out.

The longest "proper" mixed line in Bicaz Gorges, featuring three pitches. Its corresponding stream "trickles" down all the way to the road, forming into several shallow ice ramps and icicles just after the "Hornul cu Fereastra" crag, on the same side of the road.

There is only a single piton as in-situ fixed gear at the crux of the mixed section in the second pitch.

P1: 60m, alpine style gully featuring loose rock and easy ice, possibly WI2 at most on certain sections. Belay on screws or improvised using features;

P2: 30m, mixture of ice and rock sections, finishing off with pure water ice, possibly WI4. Belay on screws, to the left of the main, vertical ice sector following-up;

P3: 50m, the crux pitch, consisting of a short, M6 mixed crux, followed by 12-15m of vertical water ice, WI5+, and 35m of easy, WI3 water ice on slabby terrain, up to the edge of the forest above, which depending on the conditions, can turn into a run-out. Belay on a tree at your convenience.

P4: 60m, terminal pitch, ending through several ledges covered in ice and following the ice stream all the way up to the forest plateau, in a deeply forested area, easy WI2.

The described route characteristics apply to the conditions the day of the first ascent. The aspect, quality and abundance of ice can vary considerably from year to year, therefore shifting the difficulty and extending or shortening the length of the actual mixed climbing section, or making the protection poor and the exit run-out, mandating R or X.

Starts from lower than most of the other routes on the wall, from the intermediate glacial caldera. All belays are bolted and equipped for a rappel retreat, some bolts can be found in the cruxes.